Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Some Gauge Reads Towing Light
May 27, 2016
Towed 3 axle trailer loaded with a 73 VW bug, two implement bars, plows and a small boat. I would guess total weight at 7,000 max. The ambient temp 97 degrees and very humid. I have a 2000 dually.
The following are from the ScangaugeII
TFT trans temp 175 max
EOT end oil temp 205 max
SLP trans slip 0.20 max and 0.0 in high gear
From glow shift
Water temp 196
The one I am worried about is the trans slip, from a stop taking off always went high 0.15 to 0.20 and then drop quickly. Once the TC locked 0.0 down the road. Also, when I reverse with no load on dirt I have seen 0.20 on the trans slip. I have Forscan but have not logged any temps yet....
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Fuel gauge goes back to empty when I fill the truck all the way up. It goes back to full once I have used up 2 gallons ( from 36 gal to 34 ) on my 2012 F350. I also had a similar issues years ago with my 2003 6.0L .....
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2001 F350 290,000 no mods other than 6637, 2WD
Towed our new to us RV home last, only 15 miles from the dealer and yes its a big 5th for my truck at 12,000lbs. Anyhow, about 2 mins from home as I'm pulling off the freeway I got a SES light come up, then it disappeared. I checked codes this morning using forscan and nothing shows to indicate what it may be.
I was wondering if the transmission is getting hot if it throws an SES? It was only a short trip, but I have no real idea of the condition of the trans as the truck is new to us too - fluid looks and smells good.
Only new code is an ABS one c1229, c1233, C1234. I had 2 of them before - think the 1229 is the new one.
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My 04 F 350 started with a check gauge light while going down hill towing an 18 ft car hauler full of mulch. Did it for 5 seconds, then when we got to our land and I was getting ready to back up it did it again. and this time my oil pressure gauge was at zero. I shut her down. checked the oil. its full. Drive home everything is good. Today I'm getting fuel pressure gauge going nuts. 80 to 100 PSI. at idle no oil pressure and the check gauge light. but the engine is still running. Oil was changed 4K ago. fuel filters same. Where to start looking?
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I just bought a 2001 F350 diesel with 120k miles on it a couple weeks ago. Friday I headed out to Oregon with my 16 foot enclosed trailer filled with jet skis (about 4-5k pounds) for a competition. A few minutes after being on the freeway I noticed the truck did not have good power. About 30 min later while climbing a steep grade the truck almost went dead.
I started at 60mph and by the time I got to the top i was at 15mph with the throttle pinned. the motor sounded funny and shook the truck more then normal. After wards on the down side of the grade the truck started to act normal. I took it to my buddies house and switched trucks because I didn't trust if for the 13 hour drive.
Today I talked to a mechanic at the dealership and he said that it sounded like injector o-rings to him. I went home, pulled the valve covers and started the motor to see if anything is leaking. steam was coming from the valve area and the down spouts on the injectors was flowing oil. The thing that looked especially abnormal was one of the injectors looked like fuel was dribbling from it. I don't know if that is a problem or not. I couldn't tell if it was fuel or oil but no other injectors had fluid coming out near the wire connections.
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I pulled with my 2000 F250 7.3 for the first time yesterday pulling a 12,500 5th wheel and then again today with an 18 ft ski boat weighting around 3500 for both the trailer and boat. I had this same issue pulling both.
Today when pulling the boat/trailer i was behind a slow moving truck and when we hit a hill with a passing lane i merged over and wanted to start passing him. We started off at around 45 mph up the hill and as I started pushing the pedal I wasn't gaining any speed and my rpm's didn't even get over 1500. It felt like a stall and continued that at around 45-50 mph up the hill (about a 65 degree slope). When I'm not towing the truck runs great, plenty of power and averaging around 16 1/2 mpg.
Only mods i have is a 6647 Napa filter, muffler delete and it's running the same 4 position TS tuner from the original owner. During normal operation I run it at the 75hp gain and when towing i use the 50hp gain.
In both instances i could see black smoke coming from exhaust when pushing the pedal but my rpm's wouldn't go up and truck maintained the slow speed going up the hill. Once at the top it drove normal and picked up speed without any problems.
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Normally I run around sea level at home but Iam on road trip in Wyoming at over 5000' elevation I am noticing alot more black smoke when towing. I run a DP tuner with 40 and 60hp tow mode. I also notice alot more black smoke in 60HP Econo Mode when not towing? Would this be typical due to the higher elevation?
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Alright I got a '99 7.3 Superduty F-250 I have been overheating while pulling my 1985 Camper weights around 6K. I put a new thermostat in still overheated.
Scenario, Rpms 2500-2700 top end trying to keep fluids moving. OD to D to 2 to 1. Run in between 1 and 2 basic on the up and flat of the road.
6-8% grade engine gets hot pull over and let it cool put it in 4 wheel works a little bit 4 wheel at least keep the tranny around 180. I only have a tranny gauge, I'm using the dash temp gauge for the engine.
What I'm I doing wrong or over looking.
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I want test my fuel pressure. What is a good gauge or kit to buy? My truck has lost power towing and is now starting to miss a little. I'm wandering if i my problem is in the tank. Is there a good scan tool that would diagnose things too?
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After installing new glow plugs, glow plug relay, and valve cover gaskets my 2000 7.3 is throwing the 1395 code. Glow plug monitor Bank 1. Any input as to cause? Checked all connections to relay. All tight. Read something about fusible link. Where that is located? One side of relay reads 0 volts.
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I have a 2000 with a six speed and through the first 2 gears while giving it only a little throttle, worse on hills and worse while towing I have a pretty decent vibration. Once you get to 3rd and up its fine. I have read about axle wrap and due to the fact my springs are pretty wore out I think this is a big part of it. Any other things to look at other than new springs? The u joints all look and feel fine so I haven't touched them.
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Towing a 5th wheel at about 10,000 lbs total. Towards the end of out 9 hour trip home and going upgrade the truck begins to loos power and the engine starts making some bad sounds. Although its hard to hear it starts about 45 seconds in and continues later when going uphill. the truck also made a very high pitched squealing/scraping sound (not a belt) like it may have been coming from the turbo. Oil temp was about 220, trans temp at 170 at the time of the event.
Truck has 216k, stock, upgraded trans cooler, original fuel pump.
Here is the video : YouTube.....
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2002 F350 7.3, MANUAL transmission ZF6.
Bought this truck used for hauling an excavator, and after fixing damn-near everything engine/turbo/and-cooling-system-related ---- it's finally seeing some use.
Just recently started hauling 12,000lb payloads. When I accelerate hard in Low gear, and then shift into 1st and accelerate hard again, I feel the whole truck shuddering. It's like a shimmy-shaking vibration all through the vehicle.
It doesn't happen in higher gears, only when the following conditions are met...
1) Starting from a dead stop
2) 12,000lb payload (heavy)
3) Accelerating hard (Low, First gear)
I would also like to add that I experienced this shuddering vibration very intensely when I put the transfer case in 4wd LOW (front manual hubs left unlocked) and towed 14,000lb up a steep hill in 1st, 2nd, and then 3rd transmission gears.
^^^ By leaving front hubs unlocked and transfer case in 4wd LOW, I was effectively lowering my final drive ratio even more for extra pulling power in 2wd hill-climbing. I don't do this often, only when absolutely necessary. ^^^
I must also add that I do have slightly taller rims/tires than OEM ford WITH the original ford gearing (3.73) so I'm more like 3.51 final drive ratio.
02 F350 7.3l ZF6
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I recently had my fuel gauge stuck on full and at around the same time, my left rear brake light doesn't work. I do have LED brake lights in the rear so I am not sure if that changes anything. I thinking something with a ground or is it possible that these aren't even related.
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I have always seen other trucks blow black smoke with towing up a hill but mine for the most part has not. I pulled my 5er to CO this summer and notice my truck starting to blow black smoke. I consider myself a very conservative driver. I always stay around 65 MPH while towing and never push my truck up the hills. I always try to keep the RPM around 2000 and let the MPH fall where they may until I reach the summit. With the black smoke I'm starting to see what is my truck trying to tell me? It's not bad but would like to fix now before it becomes something more.
2001 F250, 4X4 crew cab, 7.3 with 205,000 miles.....
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I am on my third EGT gauge. My mechanic installed it as per "auto meter" specifications. He told me, the only reason he could find that the gauges have been failing is low voltage output. I have an onboard compressor for my airbag suspension and every time I start my vehicle it runs to fill up the air system. The voltage drops to 11.1V. It comes up once all is running and the compressor quits. is there any such thing as surge/brownout protection for these systems?
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I need a part number for the temp sensor for my truck. The dummies at advance have sold me the wrong one 2 times now. I used a jumper wire on the plug to make sure I didn't have a broke wire somewhere. The gauge went up when I jumped it. Went and got a new one and it still don't work
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What gauge wires the battery cables are on these trucks? Son in law has some really corroded cables on the Excursion. I was going to pick up some welding cable and replace them, but a quick glance looks like different sizes for different cables.
Looking for a list of gauge and length for each one to save me a little time?
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I need to install an oil pressure sensor sending unit. I've already occupied the 1/8"NPT test port on the rear of the oil cooler, where else might I be able to tap into oil pressure? (LPOP)
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Just bought this 1999 7.3 drove it a couple days now and got to walmart today. shut it off to go inside and came back out. turned on key waited for wait to start to go off. cranked the motor over but it didnt fire. i tried it again and nothing. oil is full, oil pressure is good while cranking. no rpm reading on gauge while cranking. no check engine light. batteries are literally brand new two weeks ago. Cam sensor?
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Two years ago I acquired a very very nice 2001 F350 DRW crew cab. The person I purchased it from put a Remanufactured 7.3 in it and set the truck up to pull wedge trailers. He put 25K miles on it and put it on Craig's list where I found it. It just turned over 300,000 miles.
One of the changes he made was to install a 70 gallon fuel tank in the frame rails below the bed. He told me that when the gauge reads EMPTY there is still 20 gallons in the tank. I remember him telling me that this anomaly is due to using the stock Ford pickup in the larger tank.
I have never filled the tank because so far the truck is used locally. I usually put 10 to 20 gallons in and when it gets to E I do the same fueling.
Then one day I turned the key on and the needle went up and beyond the full indication.
I can get under it and maybe the tank has some name or model number on it.
The truck runs fine, but the gauge concerns me. Eventually the truck will be making round trips from Chicago to our retirement home in Santa Fe, NM. It would be nice to have a working fuel gauge!
I have spoken to the person I purchased the truck from. He installed the tank as part of a complete upgrade that included a re-manufactured 7.3. The fuel tank is a 67 gallon Titan mounted between the frame rails. He believes that the original Ford sending unit was installed. That means it has 300,000 miles on it. I had the truck on a lift yesterday and it is a very tight fit. The garage said the best way to do the repair is to remove the bed. Six bolts, disconnect the tail lights and the 7 pin trailer connector and it is off.
So, my questions now are... Should I stay with a new Ford sending unit or are there better ones to install? Are there any other updates to the fuel delivery system that should or could be done at the time?
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