Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Shuddering Low Gear Acceleration When Towing Heavy?
Aug 2, 2015
2002 F350 7.3, MANUAL transmission ZF6.
Bought this truck used for hauling an excavator, and after fixing damn-near everything engine/turbo/and-cooling-system-related ---- it's finally seeing some use.
Just recently started hauling 12,000lb payloads. When I accelerate hard in Low gear, and then shift into 1st and accelerate hard again, I feel the whole truck shuddering. It's like a shimmy-shaking vibration all through the vehicle.
It doesn't happen in higher gears, only when the following conditions are met...
1) Starting from a dead stop
2) 12,000lb payload (heavy)
3) Accelerating hard (Low, First gear)
I would also like to add that I experienced this shuddering vibration very intensely when I put the transfer case in 4wd LOW (front manual hubs left unlocked) and towed 14,000lb up a steep hill in 1st, 2nd, and then 3rd transmission gears.
^^^ By leaving front hubs unlocked and transfer case in 4wd LOW, I was effectively lowering my final drive ratio even more for extra pulling power in 2wd hill-climbing. I don't do this often, only when absolutely necessary. ^^^
I must also add that I do have slightly taller rims/tires than OEM ford WITH the original ford gearing (3.73) so I'm more like 3.51 final drive ratio.
02 F350 7.3l ZF6
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Ok, my clutch has been giving me trouble for a little bit and I'm almost positive that I have a bent release fork. It also slips under heavy acceleration in 6th gear. I am planning on doing a clutch, compete with flywheel and release fork and a new rear main seal. My problem is, here within the last couple of days the trans would pop out of 4th gear if I was just coasting. It has been getting noisy over the last few weeks also. I'm no manual tyranny expert, but this is making me think I'm gonna need to have it rebuilt.
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My truck 00' 7.3 255k is smoking white. It's not thick its more of a white haze. Sometimes it does it sometimes it doesn't. It has a 6637 intake, exhaust, and wicked wheel. No tuner or such. Im thinking either the turbo is going out or maybe a leaky injector? Just checked the turbo wheel and it has a little side to side play. On start up itll puff white then go away but then under heavy acceleration on occasion there is a haze of white then goes to haze of black. It also feels like the truck is lacking some power. There is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. Not consuming oil or coolant. And there is no excessive pressure coming out of the oil fill.
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I'm on the road and I pulled over for a pit stop so I don't have time for a search right now, but I noticed under heavy acceleration a turbo whine so high pitched it almost sounds like metal on metal. Is this normal and I just noticed it, a leak somewhere, or maybe indication of something worse? The truck seems to be running ok otherwise. It's an '02 w/7.3 and 220k miles.
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Over the holiday weekend I towed my 13k# 5th wheel 180 miles to the campgrounds.
According to my Torque Pro app, soot was around mid 30% when I left home. Upon arrival it had passively dropped to single digits.
After driving unloaded a few times over the weekend, the soot level had gone back up to mid 30s.
While towing home it again had passively dropped back to 1.1% .......... then boom! A regen starts.
After 22 miles it completed and soot had dropped to -13.2%.
So towing heavy, passively burning soot off, exhaust temps in the 700-800 weren't good enough for the system.
It had to start a regen and boost tempts to the 1100-1200 range WHILE TOWING to basically burn off NOTHING.
Not to mention drop my already poor MPG to single digits.
Just venting about what appears to be unnecessary exposure to high temps and wasted fuel.
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Now that I have gotten my ScanGauge II to monitor all 4 egt sensor, I am wondering about temperatures while towing, especially how long to idle a hot engine after heavy towing.
I realize all 4 sensors are post turbo (and there is no chance I'm going to drill for an after market pre-turbo sensor). It seems the first one downstream will be the one to watch.
What temperature range we should look for before turning off the engine? IIRC, Ford recommends idling for 3 to 5 minutes, but watching the temp seems a bit more specific.
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I just bought a 2001 F350 diesel with 120k miles on it a couple weeks ago. Friday I headed out to Oregon with my 16 foot enclosed trailer filled with jet skis (about 4-5k pounds) for a competition. A few minutes after being on the freeway I noticed the truck did not have good power. About 30 min later while climbing a steep grade the truck almost went dead.
I started at 60mph and by the time I got to the top i was at 15mph with the throttle pinned. the motor sounded funny and shook the truck more then normal. After wards on the down side of the grade the truck started to act normal. I took it to my buddies house and switched trucks because I didn't trust if for the 13 hour drive.
Today I talked to a mechanic at the dealership and he said that it sounded like injector o-rings to him. I went home, pulled the valve covers and started the motor to see if anything is leaking. steam was coming from the valve area and the down spouts on the injectors was flowing oil. The thing that looked especially abnormal was one of the injectors looked like fuel was dribbling from it. I don't know if that is a problem or not. I couldn't tell if it was fuel or oil but no other injectors had fluid coming out near the wire connections.
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I will start with what I have done to my truck. Hutch and harpoon mod, fuel pump, new orings on fuel lines, fuel filter, air box, 4" exhaust. My issue only happens when my engine is warmed up and I put it under a load(driving up a long hill or pulling up a long hill). My truck starts to shudder and feels like missing until it looses all power to where it won't even pull itself and will just barely idle. It doesn't die though. I watch the engine oil temp and it seems to be around 195-200 when it occurs. I can turn the truck off and let the oil temp cool to 150-160 and then start the truck up it will miss for a second then clear up. I will start driving again and it seems fine until the oil temp gets up and start putting it under a load. I have read many posts and can't figure out exactly where I need to start. Some of the codes I pulled are P0603, P0470, P0732, P0542 and P1211.
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I pulled with my 2000 F250 7.3 for the first time yesterday pulling a 12,500 5th wheel and then again today with an 18 ft ski boat weighting around 3500 for both the trailer and boat. I had this same issue pulling both.
Today when pulling the boat/trailer i was behind a slow moving truck and when we hit a hill with a passing lane i merged over and wanted to start passing him. We started off at around 45 mph up the hill and as I started pushing the pedal I wasn't gaining any speed and my rpm's didn't even get over 1500. It felt like a stall and continued that at around 45-50 mph up the hill (about a 65 degree slope). When I'm not towing the truck runs great, plenty of power and averaging around 16 1/2 mpg.
Only mods i have is a 6647 Napa filter, muffler delete and it's running the same 4 position TS tuner from the original owner. During normal operation I run it at the 75hp gain and when towing i use the 50hp gain.
In both instances i could see black smoke coming from exhaust when pushing the pedal but my rpm's wouldn't go up and truck maintained the slow speed going up the hill. Once at the top it drove normal and picked up speed without any problems.
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Normally I run around sea level at home but Iam on road trip in Wyoming at over 5000' elevation I am noticing alot more black smoke when towing. I run a DP tuner with 40 and 60hp tow mode. I also notice alot more black smoke in 60HP Econo Mode when not towing? Would this be typical due to the higher elevation?
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Alright I got a '99 7.3 Superduty F-250 I have been overheating while pulling my 1985 Camper weights around 6K. I put a new thermostat in still overheated.
Scenario, Rpms 2500-2700 top end trying to keep fluids moving. OD to D to 2 to 1. Run in between 1 and 2 basic on the up and flat of the road.
6-8% grade engine gets hot pull over and let it cool put it in 4 wheel works a little bit 4 wheel at least keep the tranny around 180. I only have a tranny gauge, I'm using the dash temp gauge for the engine.
What I'm I doing wrong or over looking.
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I want test my fuel pressure. What is a good gauge or kit to buy? My truck has lost power towing and is now starting to miss a little. I'm wandering if i my problem is in the tank. Is there a good scan tool that would diagnose things too?
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I have a 2000 with a six speed and through the first 2 gears while giving it only a little throttle, worse on hills and worse while towing I have a pretty decent vibration. Once you get to 3rd and up its fine. I have read about axle wrap and due to the fact my springs are pretty wore out I think this is a big part of it. Any other things to look at other than new springs? The u joints all look and feel fine so I haven't touched them.
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Towed 3 axle trailer loaded with a 73 VW bug, two implement bars, plows and a small boat. I would guess total weight at 7,000 max. The ambient temp 97 degrees and very humid. I have a 2000 dually.
The following are from the ScangaugeII
TFT trans temp 175 max
EOT end oil temp 205 max
SLP trans slip 0.20 max and 0.0 in high gear
From glow shift
Water temp 196
The one I am worried about is the trans slip, from a stop taking off always went high 0.15 to 0.20 and then drop quickly. Once the TC locked 0.0 down the road. Also, when I reverse with no load on dirt I have seen 0.20 on the trans slip. I have Forscan but have not logged any temps yet....
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2001 F350 290,000 no mods other than 6637, 2WD
Towed our new to us RV home last, only 15 miles from the dealer and yes its a big 5th for my truck at 12,000lbs. Anyhow, about 2 mins from home as I'm pulling off the freeway I got a SES light come up, then it disappeared. I checked codes this morning using forscan and nothing shows to indicate what it may be.
I was wondering if the transmission is getting hot if it throws an SES? It was only a short trip, but I have no real idea of the condition of the trans as the truck is new to us too - fluid looks and smells good.
Only new code is an ABS one c1229, c1233, C1234. I had 2 of them before - think the 1229 is the new one.
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I bought a 99 f-250 7.3 a month or so ago and am impressed with the level of knowledge and hospitality you all show. This is my first diesel so I am completely new to a lot of the issues that occur with one and many of the diagnostic tests needed to troubleshoot.
When I purchased the truck the guy said it was very cold natured and I would have to plug in the block heater if it got chilly out. I didn't realize just how bad that problem was and have since had to keep it plugged in even on very mild nights to get a quick start. I have been very careful to let it warm up for 15-20 mins before I start driving it.
Also, I have noticed at around 40-55 MPH and light pressure on the gas I get a shudder, it was worse before I added a friction modifier to the oil but it is still there constant in overdrive.
As I was driving two or three days ago in a light rain (the first since I bought the truck) I noticed the SES pop on and stay on. Being new to the diesel world I immediately pulled into Autozone and tried to get a code, but with no luck. The truck has been running a bit rougher since the light came on and I am noticing a marginal power loss.
So my questions are: Where can I get the codes pulled off? I have been looking at buying a scan tool but the AE is out of my price range and the other options seem to have mixed results. Also, do any of the problems seem to be related or could it just be a few different issues that need to be ferreted out? From what I've read it seems possible for the UVCH to be the issue here, is that correct?
Again, I am really new to diesels so I may have been having loss of power even before this and not known it due to my inexperience.
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Towing a 5th wheel at about 10,000 lbs total. Towards the end of out 9 hour trip home and going upgrade the truck begins to loos power and the engine starts making some bad sounds. Although its hard to hear it starts about 45 seconds in and continues later when going uphill. the truck also made a very high pitched squealing/scraping sound (not a belt) like it may have been coming from the turbo. Oil temp was about 220, trans temp at 170 at the time of the event.
Truck has 216k, stock, upgraded trans cooler, original fuel pump.
Here is the video : YouTube.....
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My truck was shuddering in od. So as I last effort thinking it might be injectors I pulled all of them and replaced all of the orings and valve cover harnesses. After all of this was done seemed to do nothing at all. Now a new problem has surfaced. It's having idle problems. It will now idle at 780-850 instead of 650-700rmps. Also on deceleration it will miss pretty bad. Checked all of my injectors again all connections are good and all of the injectors are tight. Not burning any oil. So I unplugged the icp and bam runs like a top perfect running engine. So I bought a new one and plugged it in and itake doing the same thing. So what is going on! Also it was throwing a random check engine light but wouldn't bring a code up I'm completely lost....
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Ill start off with my mods and recent maintenance things I have done before fully describing the issue.
E99 7.3l with 190k on the clock
Full 5" turbo back
TS-6 chip
EGT, Boost and trans temp gauge
New ford glow plugs
Re-orings injectors
new valve cover gaskets
new fuel filter and fuel lines
new turbo with a ww2
Newer trans and oil pan
I think that should do it, now for my problem. The truck starts good cranks over once and is running with no hesitation, the engine run a little rough, more than normal vibration at idle almost like a small miss. No smoke at idle.
While driving with no/little load on the engine runs great , but under load there is a good amount of white smoke/ oil smell. The turbo is new and is not leaking oil I have already checked over that and the exhaust is new but there is some oil that is at the tail pipe in liquid form. The exhaust up pipe that goes to the turbo is not covered in oil either
The truck cruising in OD or in 3rd with O/D off around 2k rpms it shudders real bad almost like the truck is going to shake its self apart. but at like 2400 rpms and above its fine. Where is a good place to start the diagnosis as I am pretty new to the Diesel world. From what I've read it looks to be either rings are junk or maybe I have some bad injectors (thats what it feels like to me) but would that cause it to smoke like crazy?
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I have always seen other trucks blow black smoke with towing up a hill but mine for the most part has not. I pulled my 5er to CO this summer and notice my truck starting to blow black smoke. I consider myself a very conservative driver. I always stay around 65 MPH while towing and never push my truck up the hills. I always try to keep the RPM around 2000 and let the MPH fall where they may until I reach the summit. With the black smoke I'm starting to see what is my truck trying to tell me? It's not bad but would like to fix now before it becomes something more.
2001 F250, 4X4 crew cab, 7.3 with 205,000 miles.....
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02 7.3L SD Im on a long haul and think I might have bought some bad diesel. It is shuddering a little kind of like a miss. It started right after I stopped for fuel. Is this going to damage my engine to keep plugging along? Is it just going to run kind of rough until I burn up the bad fuel? Ive got about 200mi to go so just needed to know if its safe to keep driving or am I going to be stranded.
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