I have a early 99 7.3l that seem to cut out and shudder while accelerating at low rpm's below 2000 once I am above 2000 rpm it seems to go away similar to a dirty carburetor thinking injector problem...
View 2 RepliesMy trucks been doing something weird. When accelerating around 45-55 mph, a couple seconds after it shifts to 3rd, it does a weird type off shake/shudder. Feels like I hit a small bump in the road. Also when coming out of a cruise to accelerate, it will Make a very violent clunk and then speed up. I'm thinking it's a problem with my torque converter but my mechanic says transmission and my buddy says rear end lol. I dropped the pan and there was some shavings but nothing huge and it was the first time it was ever dropped. After 90k miles.
View 14 RepliesWife put fuel in my truck drove it home and as soon as I started it back up it was running rough as hell. When I got to the freeway it got real rough at 1500 rpms in overdrive. If I bring it up over 2000rpm it's better but still feels rough. When I got off work and started it up I got the p1316 code.
I did some research tested plugs on the valve covers a few pins were over 5ohms so pulled the valve covers did the 50cent mod to shimm the under valve cover wiring harness. All pins are around 3.5 ohms. It did not fix the problem.
I then dropped the tank thinking maybe the pick up was gunked up. I've read all the horror stories about the delamination in Ford tanks. Good news is that I have a plastic fuel tank. Bad news is the screens though dirty weren't dirty enough to cause my problems. Where should I go from here?
2000 F250 7.3L ZF 6spd 4x4 regular cab long bed 253k
DP F6 chip, 4" exhaust, WW2, EBV delete
I run 5w40 Rotella Synthetic. Oil was changed about 1,000 miles ago. I also added a quart of Hot Shot stiction eliminator. I use Power Service and Stanadyne lubricity in every tank. Fuel filter is new.(motorcraft)
For a month or so its been acting weird. I get a stumble/miss/stutter, at random, but mostly under hard acceleration and high rpm (specifically approx 2500-2800rpm). It will also do it on decel when I lift after accellerating . Recently, I noticed it is also idling roughly. The engine is shaking and it feels like a miss. When it does its "thing" it sounds like a single "knock". Occassionally, it sort of sounds like an injector "buzzing". I've been using the "stock" tune for the last few weeks, to minimize any chance of engine damage, as I have to drive it. Turning up the chip makes the problems more noticeable and happen at a lower rpm. The truck has plenty of power, and pulls hard, except for the "stutter". If I hold my foot in it to "push through" the initial stumble at 2500 or so, it will keep going a few hundred more rpm, and then really start bucking.
There are no meaningful codes. I DO have:
EBV related soft codes - makes sense since its deleted.
Overboost related codes- from turning the chip up - won't happen in stock setting
A soft code for the back pressure SENSOR. I have a new one and will be cleaning the tube when I get a chance. I unplugged the sensor and it made no difference in the miss issue.
I have recently done the following in pursuit of a solution to all this:
New IPR (autozone) valve and pigtail
New ICP (motorcraft) and pigtail ( sensor had oil in it)
New CMP and pigtail. (2 actually. First a standard pc139 for the obs, and currently a Napa echlin correct for '00) No change. Although it initially had the dreaded Ford small head light grey sensor and failed cct for #3 & 8. After the cps change, it passed cct.
Accellerator Pedal Position Sensor. It would not read any higher then 3.95v at wot, and only 0.50v at idle, so I installed a new one. After adjusting it a little, I have 0.76v at idle, and 4.02 at wot. Didn't affect the stumble issue, but it seemed to greatly improve/eliminate my parking lot speed "bucking".
I just did the UVCH's. The passenger side was pretty much unplugged. But they all looked good. No burnt, melted,or chafed wires anywhere. I probably could have just plugged it back in, but I changed both sides with new Motorcraft parts anyway. I did the gaskets and the uvch, but not the engine side harness/pigtail, as they looked ok. I also did the 0.50 mod as a preventative measure. After seeing the unplugged harness, I really thought this would be the end of the problem, but its not. Very frustrated.
As a side note, I was surprised to see that I have 8 AD injectors, and not an AE in cyl 8.
I have an old outdated snapon scanner. Its only good up to '99, but I am able to scan my 2000 as a '99. I think I'm missing some pids though.
I can do cct and buzz test, but no PERDEL readings.
As far as ICP, it idles at about 450psi, at approx 12% IPR dc. On a brief 2nd gear wot run, it will hit (and hold as long as I have road to stay in it) a little over 2900psi, at 41-42% IPR duty cycle. I did notice, during these near instantaneous stumble events, ICP would flutter on the scanner about 75-100psi. Its almost too quick to even see it.
I have 2001 F250 7.3L 261k miles.
Over the last few months, I have noticed that my truck is taking longer & longer to start after sitting for a long time (i.e. every morning, after work, etc.) When the problem first started (3-4 months ago) it would crank for 2 seconds & nothing so I would turn it off, let the "wait to start" light go off again (depending on outside temp 10-20 seconds) & then it would crank & usually fire right over like it was new. That seemed to happen only in the morning when it was 70 degrees or colder outside but no problem after work when it was 80+ degrees.
As the weather has gotten colder, it has gotten progressively worse. A couple of weeks ago, it was in the 40s in the morning & it took a solid 8 or 9 minutes of cranking for a few seconds, then trying again before it started. Once it started it did "chuga chug" a couple of times before it smoothed out. Last week when it was 16 degrees in the morning, it wouldn't start at all. I tried for a solid 15 minutes before I gave up.
I will say that as it has gotten worse over the last couple of months, I have noticed that it's cranking w/o firing but I will hear it fire once or twice per crank before it will fire up & run. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. No studders, stalls, slow acceleration, etc. Pulls like it always has. The weirdest part about it is that once it starts & runs for 30-60 seconds, I can shut it off & it'll fire right up every time. If I get it up to full operating temperature, I can go back & start it right up 2 or 3 hours later w/o a problem.
I did notice my oil cooler is leaking pretty badly (that will be fixed this weekend) & my valley has fluid in it but it's hard to tell if it's diesel, oil or a combination of the two because my truck is setup to run on WMO (waste motor oil). I have dual tanks so the OEM tank is diesel & the auxillary tank is WMO. I have 2 mechanical fuel pressure gauges on my fuel bowl, 1 pre & 1 post fuel filter as well as an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump. The fuel pressure when running on WMO has always bounced a little bit between (65-75 psi) but the fuel pressure on diesel has always held solid at 75 psi until recently when I have noticed that it flutters a very small amount between 73-75 psi.
I have verified that the GP Relay works & was leaning towards a glow plug problem but considering it was having troubles at 70 degrees ambient temperature, I'm hesitant to think that's the true problem. I think that might just be adding to the problem. I live in the south so my truck doesn't have a block heater but I'm going to add one this weekend when I replace the oil cooler gaskets & o-rings.
I'm also going to pick up a new Android tablet today (replace my broken one) so I can use the Torque Pro app to monitor ICP, HPOP & InjPW. Finally, I had a DP Tuner chip on it & to remove that as the possible cause, I removed it & the same symptoms continued.
The truck is a new to me 99 f250 7.3. The problem occurred before doing the brakes, and after. The front brakes had new pads and calipers(rotors appeared to be in good condition) while the rears got New rotors, calipers, pads. The persisting problem is a really bad brake shudder that seems to be getting worse. It only occurs below about 5-10mph when braking. on this trip back to school there is a hill with a stop sign at the bottom where i should have rolled forward when i let my foot off the brake. This didn't happen.
It almost seemed as if the tires(meaty 35in dick cepek crushers) where rubbing and catching on something. but we checked and it didn't seems as if they were, though they do come somewhat close to the bumper. Im not even sure if its brakes or what it is, a friend of mine said possibly the hubs, but what can i do to pinpoint it? I wanna try loading down the front with something to simulate the drop when braking and see if the tires do indeed hit as when going to a rolling stop with only a little braking it doesn't do it. Any other things to check?
Its going into overdrive to early causing it to shake at around 40mph but when I get to 50mph it go away or under 35mph it not there either what could that be??? Just got torque converter and trans done and checked it wasn't that.
View 4 RepliesTook the beast out for a good road trip to try out the new tires. She is running good now, but has picked up a weird miss which cause the truck to shudder. It does feel and sound just like a miss, I know that it is a diesel but that is only way to describe it.
When driving along with the cruise set at 75, when I hit a hill, the truck will gradually accelerate, and it will miss a beat. Just like you turned it off and right back on very fast. Usually once, twice if the hill is long. If I accelerate harder it will not do it. Most often does it while gradually moving accelerator.
Has new fuel filter ad cam sensor.. Runs great the rest of the time.
I just bought my first truck and it is a 1999 (Made in late 1998) F250 7.3 Super Duty it is 2WD with rear ABS and has 290k miles on it.
It has what seems to be the common brake shudder while stopping. I know the only solution is to replace the rotors and I have been looking all over the forums and internet and just don't know what to go with.
I'll be using the truck to do light farm work, pickup lumber, get a bed load of dirt and maybe pull a normal car trailer every now and then.
I'm wanting to get something that will prove to be trouble free long term and be good enough for what I need with out over paying for something that I will never fully utilize. I have looked at
R1 Concepts
Frozen Rotor
EBC - which doesn't have 2wd front rotors
While I am loving the fuel millage and ride of my new truck, I have my first concern. In the last few weeks i have hauled a truck bed full of dirt, and 3300 lbs of sod. both times i would use tow haul mode, and while the truck had plenty of power, it would shutter when accelerating from a stop. Mostly first gear 0-15 mph.
This is my truck with a fancy electronic controlled transmission, so on the old pickups this would be a torque converter slipping, but all the ford dealer wants to tell me is "its electrical and they want to reflash my transmission". I am at 26k miles and have less than 10k left on my warranty...
My issue can be while driving with cruise on, or accelerating, the truck just losses power, then recovers. At idle, the rpm can, but not always, fluctuate.
There is no "misfire" when it happens, but it just falls on its face. I have NO diagnostic tools, and my injectors are not stock, so I am unable to unplug my DP.
My thoughts are to unplug the ICP and give that a shot? Meanwhile, I will put in a order for a elm327
As I was getting ready to leave town with the tractor loaded up, I was accelerating with the turbo spooling up when I heard a bit of a pop and lost power (engine still running and all, just very low power like you get when the turbo fails). I wasn't far from the shop so I came back and started getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, it doesn't smell like diesel, probably more like oil. Definitely smoke, not coolant. I pulled it around back and shut it down to go grab AE and scan it and it shows a P0475, starting it back up has light smoke at idle and it idles fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts smoking pretty badly.
Researching it looks like the most likely cause for this is the EBPV itself but before tearing it down that far. This is the only code it's showing.
Truck has 272k on it, turbo was rebuilt a couple of years ago but we didn't do anything with the pedestal at that time. I guess in retrospect, I probably should have done the EBPV delete and the resistor fix then but I didn't think about it at the time.
On another note, my AE is not showing any of the system test for some reason, the drop down is blank. I have version 7.0.1, so it's an old version but I'm working on an old truck, so... What that might be? I've got the truck pulled into the shop now to let it cool down. I'll probably let it sit overnight and take the turbo and EBPV out tomorrow unless someone has a better suggestion...
When I'm driving at highway speed and press the accelerator after coasting a bit, the engine stumbles then picks up and accelerates. The fuel bowl assembly is brand new as of 5 months ago, and I drained of any water last month when I changed oil. Truck is stock with 350k miles.
Apart from this issue, it runs well and idles smoothly. Injectors are healthy per a buzz test a powerstroke mechanic performed last year. What could cause the stumble off idle?
I just wrapped up a full day's worth of tear down/reassembly chasing an oil leak at the turbo pedestal. while I had the turbo out I replaced the pedestal with a non-ebpv pedestal and replaced the outlet with a high flow outlet. I also removed the stock exhaust and replaced it with a 4" Turbo Back from MRPB. Once I got everything put back together I hit the highway to check out the new exhaust.
To my horror I started to hear a high pitched airhorn-like sound while accelerating. It sounds a lot like an old police siren... I'm wondering if this sounds like a turbo or simply a boost leak. I obviously had everything taken apart so a boost leak seems likely (still original boots with 191,000 miles). I've ordered new boots from RiffRaff but wanted to make sure it didn't sound like an exploding turbo and that I could safely drive it until I can fix the old boots.
Take a look (listen) at the video : [URL] ....
Background: '01 Excursion 7.3 4WD, 264,xxx miles, batteries less than three years old, new alternator [URL] .... , using an Edge Insight for digital readings.
Problem: I replaced the alternator about three weeks ago, first week all normal. Second week alt/battery idiot light comes on, then to add more frustration it is consistently inconsistent in its reading.
The volts (upon starting) jump around 11.6 - 12.1 when first starting. The light comes on while accelerating and goes off during no throttle while cold.
After warm-up the light will come on intermittently even though the reading is 13.0>, but never during off throttle.
It seems to do this more when cold but it does not completely stop when it's warm. Yes, I don't think that should be a factor but it is a reality .
I'm thinking it's a bad voltage regulator.
What can cause shutter in 1998 f-150 4.6 4x4 4r70w when slowly accelerating?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4.6L 4x4 Auto and it's having an issue. My truck has recently developed a stutter when accelerating. It feels like a serious misfire and actually pulled a code for a misfire on cylinder 7 (although I haven't been able to get the code to appear again). The plugs are pretty new, I think I only have around 10k miles on them so i figured it might be the coil pack. I bought 2 new coil packs but only one was in stock so i replaced it on the drivers side bank (which controls cylinder 7) and it didn't fix my problem. When I first start the truck and drive it, it isn't very noticeable, but as I drive the truck for a few minutes, the stutter gets more violent. I will replace the other coil pack tomorrow, but I have my doubts it's the problem. It acts just like a bad coil pack.
View 9 RepliesI got a p0284 code and have some symptoms such as shaking while accelerating between 45 and 60 mph and a rough idle.
View 2 RepliesLike the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
when i accelerate or let off the peddle I hear and aloud thug or dull bang. I've checked and greased all the u joints. Disconnected the carrier bearing and separated the drive shaft and greased it up. Still get the noise I have very little play in the carrier bearing but I don't think that's the problem. It sounds to me like might be at the transmission. What do y'all think it is?
View 2 RepliesI'm working on a 1999 Chevy Astro 4.3L with an occasional crank, no start condition. On any given day, this vehicle will start right up and run fine, although some days it will start right up and have a part-throttle stutter; not a dead miss, but a stutter when accelerating that sometimes goes away. When it has the stutter, disconnecting the MAP sensor will cause the stutter to go away completely. I replaced the MAP sensor, but nothing changed. Today, it's back to its crank, no start attitude problem. The basics check out fine: good, strong spark at the wires, 60-65 psi of fuel pressure, and I even pulled the plenum to verify fuel is firing from the injectors. Everything seems to be happening as it should except that it will not start and run. I even tried doing the Passlock relearn procedure on it, despite spark and fuel happening when it should, one or both of which would normally be eliminated by the security system, but to no avail. What could possibly cause this here-today-gone-tomorrow no-start condition?
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