I got a p0284 code and have some symptoms such as shaking while accelerating between 45 and 60 mph and a rough idle.
View 2 RepliesSo I did a cylinder contribution test and a buzz test today. It buzzed evenly on all cylinders. Then when I did the cylinder contribution test I got these codes,
P0269 cylinder 4 contribution balance
P0284 cylinder 8 contribution balance
It has been running a little rough lately but not smoking. Seems to be chattering more than it was too. I did the FRx, HPx, CVDs and banjo bolt mods about 500 miles ago and it was a lot quieter and ran better. Just recently started running rough and a little louder. Could these injectors be bad? I did new injector O-rings about 800 miles ago. I ran the test with the engine cold and with it warmed up and got the codes both times. It seems to have a little bit of throttle flutter when holding it about half throttle while driving.
As far as I know the injectors haven't been replaced and they have 186K miles on them.
2001 F-350 Lariat Dually Supercab 6-spd manual 7.3 Powerstroke Turbo Diesel 186,000 miles....
2001 f250 7.3L, 289,000 miles, changed the IPR and ICP, noticed the EBP tube was in two pieces. Would this cause the rough idle and shaking? IT started running rough and would die after a mile or two. Would have to wait 30 minutes before it would start again. That is when a buddy told me to change the IPR and ICP the ICP plug was covered in oil as well as the top of the ICP. So I changed the wiring plug as well. I originally cleaned and changed O-rings on IPR but then it wouldn't start, bought a new IPR and started but runs rough. I just started it with EBP tube removed and sensor unplugged. Idling rough when I press accelerator and RPM go above 2K it levels off pouring black smoke everywhere.
View 3 RepliesFor the last couple months I've been messing with a P1118 code. Started a few months ago when I noticed my fuel mileage was down 1-2MPG. Also sometimes a rough seeming idle (hard to tell with the diesel). Then it threw a P1118, so I replaced the temp sensor under the turbo. The code went away for a while then came back, fuel mileage didn't change. So I replaced the temp sensor in the air filter box.
The code went away AND my fuel mileage seems to have come back to normal. Now, code thrown again. Search on P1118 hasn't been super useful. Seems like replacing the sensor under the turbo is the trick. Also seems to come up in combination with a bunch of other codes with battery problems. I suppose it's possible I have some sort of electrical gremlin. It throws the code on startup and stays on until I shut it off. Doesn't come on every time, is off more often than on.
I have a 2000 4x4 Limited 7.3 Powerstroke. 290k miles and runs like a top. However, if I don't plug it in for a few hours before starting she sounds like an old John Deere Poppin' Johnny. I had the glow plugs replaced yet had to go back to the repair shop three times since because it threw a code each time. No codes now just rough shaking and vibrating start for about 5min (without plugging in block heater) or so then once warmed up she runs great.
View 7 RepliesEarlier this week the truck was hard starting every time. Tested the batteries: 12v engine off, 14v engine running, all good.
The next day it threw a P0284 – Cylinder #8 contribution/balance, and was clearly missing on a cylinder. Despite the lack of a puff of smoke at start-up, I was pretty sure it was an injector. So I ordered one from White Bear Lake, and a fuel pressure test adapter from Strictly Diesel. Then I decided to do some testing with AutoEnginuity. Tried the injector buzz test first and got a note that the truck was not capable of performing the test. Tried starting truck and gauges swept and wouldn’t turn over. Tested batteries again: main battery 11volts, aux 12volts.
I got the batteries in and the stupid thing runs like new. Only codes are P1000 and P0603. Truck passed the injector buzz test, and cylinder contribution test graph is almost a flat line.
Take-aways:
1. Bad batteries can cause all sorts of havoc.
2. Always use a voltmeter that displays tenths of a volt, because if it’s only showing whole volts, it could be rounding up. The 12 volts from my first test was probably more like 11.6 volts.
3. Always do as much testing as possible before buying parts.
4. Costco does not sell Kirkland batteries anymore. They only stock Interstate, and the Interstate warranty has dropped from 36 months free replacement to 30 months.
5. The Walmart and Autozone batteries with the five year free replacement are “out of stock” and I’m guessing they won’t be back with Interstate dropping their replacement dates.
6. Most of the car batteries in the US are made by Johnson Controls.
7. Motorcraft batteries did not get very good reviews.
8. Interstate said that AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries stand-up better to the additional vibration and heat experienced under the hood of a diesel, but they are significantly more expensive, and not all the brands offer an AGM with a better warranty than their best lead-acid offering. Also, the guy at Sears said AGMs are only beneficial for newer cars that continue performing electronic functions after the ignition is turned off. He said he’s seen lead-acid batteries outlast AGMs, but didn’t specify if those were out of diesels or not.
Questions:
1. Can I expect the P0603 to go away after the drive cycle is complete?
2. What should I do with the new injector? If I return it there’s probably a restocking fee. If I wait for a complete injector failure I don’t get the core charge back until then. With the FICM compensation, I don’t know of any way to identify weak injectors without IDS.
As I was getting ready to leave town with the tractor loaded up, I was accelerating with the turbo spooling up when I heard a bit of a pop and lost power (engine still running and all, just very low power like you get when the turbo fails). I wasn't far from the shop so I came back and started getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, it doesn't smell like diesel, probably more like oil. Definitely smoke, not coolant. I pulled it around back and shut it down to go grab AE and scan it and it shows a P0475, starting it back up has light smoke at idle and it idles fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts smoking pretty badly.
Researching it looks like the most likely cause for this is the EBPV itself but before tearing it down that far. This is the only code it's showing.
Truck has 272k on it, turbo was rebuilt a couple of years ago but we didn't do anything with the pedestal at that time. I guess in retrospect, I probably should have done the EBPV delete and the resistor fix then but I didn't think about it at the time.
On another note, my AE is not showing any of the system test for some reason, the drop down is blank. I have version 7.0.1, so it's an old version but I'm working on an old truck, so... What that might be? I've got the truck pulled into the shop now to let it cool down. I'll probably let it sit overnight and take the turbo and EBPV out tomorrow unless someone has a better suggestion...
2003 f350 dually. Fully bulletproofed about 10k miles ago. Everything was running great for about 5k miles. A friend of mine got stuck and I went to pull him out. Got him out but got on it really hard...never overheated or anything.
Next day truck throws a cyLinder 5 contribution balance code. Ran ok but idled rough. Pulled injector and put a used one from a running truck in it. Code went away and runing fine for a few weeks. Took a long trip from FL to Texas, and on the way home same code occurred but idle was not as bad. I would clear the code and it would be fine for a few hundred miles, then would show up again. Made it home, still was driving around town a little with the code only showing sometimes. A couple blocks away from home taking off from a stop sign lost all power and motor shut off. Turned out the Injector o ring blew and hydrolocked the motor.
So now, ordered all new 155cc30% injectors , 58v ficm and new oem injector harness. Installed and Drove the truck to Illinois. After about 700 miles I noticed a little rough idle and had a cylinder 4 cont code. Made to Illinois and back to fl. At fl line I had cyld. 4 and 5 codes now. Cleared and cyld 4 was gone but 5 stayed. Got home and balance test showed 4 and 5 bad injectors. Sent them off to be fixed just got them back in. Truck started fine, smooth idle, ran for about 10 miles and cyld 5 code come back and so does the rough idle. I'm at a loss now.
Will be doing compression test tomorrow. Other than a rough idle truck runs flawless, will roast the tires and pull anything hooked to it. No hot starts, no symptoms of anything else. Possibly a problem with the oil rail feed on that cylinder? Main ficm harness? Bent pushrod?
This morning I noticed when I started the truck had a rough idle shaking truck. The truck felt weak. Boost would go up but truck felt like it was in sand. While coasting on the highway at 50-55mph the truck not only lags in power but vibrates viciously until the overdrive kicks in that vibrations in cab and ssteering wheel go away.. What might be going on?
View 6 RepliesI'm having a problem with my 6.0 back in September I started to notice a little miss with some black and white smock while accelerating so I took the truck to a power stroke specialist near my house to have it diagnosed they said my number 5 injector was starting to go bad so just this last week I finally got up enough money to get the injector changed I got the truck back yesterday from the mechanic. While driving I get a lot of shaking right around 1500 to 2000 rpms when I let off the accelerator it smooths out if I mash on it and keep the RPMs above 2000 it smooths out the truck still has a lot of power no check engine light has ever been on through this whole ordeal and there's a rough idle I guess the best way to describe the shacking would be if the truck was a standard shift and you were pulling a hill in to hi of a gear.
View 6 RepliesI'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
Truck has a rough idle and finally just stalls out. I replace the under valve cover wiring harness and put in new glow plugs. With valve covers still off I started the truck in the issue still persist. I went ahead and unplugged each injector and each time the motor had a hick up .
What am I pulling apart and replacing next?
Dad has a 01 one ton with the 7.3 and isn't real tech savvy so I'm posting for him. He is the original owner and has been complaining recently about the lack of power. Particularly the upper end. He is having to downshift way more often and where he used to not have to. And we've both noticed a very noticeable shake at idle. Not a vibration but a true shake. He changes the oil every 5000 on the dot and I've gone and changed the air and fuel filter and ran hose and see foam and royal purple injector cleaner through it with no results. Truck is all stock with 225000 on it.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2002 F-250 7.3, 159k on it. I bought it in March, ran AWESOME up till now. I was driving to work last week, check engine light came on, truck lost power and started idling rough. I have a buddy who works for a Ford dealer as a diesel mechanic, he came over with his scanner and laptop. #2,#4,#8 cylinders kept coming up saying possible problems are injectors, harness, rings.. He also did an electrical check, that all checked out. He told me to get injectors, so I got 4 injectors (yes I got the correct #8 injector), valve cover gasket, injector harness and 4 glow plugs.
The parts came last Friday, we did the job and it ran great. Drove it Friday night, Saturday, Sunday morning, no issues. Sunday afternoon we were on our way to a birthday party, truck started doing the exact same thing... Check engine light, rough idle, loss of power. After I got home from the party, my buddy came back over, put it on the scanner again, getting the same codes again. Deleted the codes, ran the tests again, same codes, deleted the codes, rant the tests again, same codes.
He said he is going to come by tomorrow with the box to check each individual cylinder.
I have a 2002 F350 4wd with the 7.3. I was driving the truck and all of a sudden it was running like crap. the engine light was on. after a minute or so the engine light goes off and the truck is running fine. then again starts running like crap. I am close to the house so I limp it home. runs like crap.... will barley climb small hills. engine light is on. get home turn it off... next day... starts up and runs great for 10 - 15 min. engine light comes back on... runs like crap.... my neighbor says "It's the crank position sensor" I replace it.... runs great for a month.... now it's doing the same thing......
View 9 RepliesWe have a 2002 7.3 f350 2wd this darn thing is now tripping me out. At first when ou start the truck its all good but when it warms up the idle is funky when you go to stop at a lite its like im power breaking and rough idle once stopped the idle is about between 800 and 900rpms at a stop really high idle but plenty of power on take off...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 F350 6.7 cclb 4wd dually. 212k ... I have the dtc p0284. The run good at idle and driving. I use it to pull a 40ft enclosed trailer. I have noticed that the boost gauge peaks at the half way mark and slowly drops half way down. I can feel my truck lose power when that happens. I also noticed that it runs alot better at night than the day. I have not modified anything except a s&b cold air intake. I have the #8injector replaced.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 F350 4x4 CC 7.3L 323,000 miles auto trans. I have removed my tuner just to make sure that it was not the issue. The truck will run fine then all of a sudden the idle will rise then fall or shudder or go up and down and sometimes it will just Die but it always restarts. No trouble lights at all. I am not sure what is causing the issue?
View 6 RepliesA couple weeks ago my 01 7.3 with 265,xxx started ideling rough and stalling. I had driven in all day Sunday and the next day it started out of the blue! It would barely start idle rough and stall out no CEL. I have singed changed the icp, fuel filter and I have checked oil level. Also used fuel cleaner. Still had no luck. When I changed the icp sensor the check engine light came on and was no change I then got a ford oem camshaft sensor and my truck fired right up but still sounded like it had a little miss here and there drove it for a few weeks fine now back to the same thing it will start up and idle fine for 10 seconds then start the rough idle but won't stall out anymore just idle rough. I am stumped I can't get any codes to pull up and if oriellys uses there scan tool while the truck was running it would shut the truck off! I can't find any answers.
View 8 RepliesHappened last night two blocks away from home. The idle seemed a little rough at start-up but didn't think much of it because the coolant temp was only 132 degrees. Pulled out of the driveway up to the stop at the corner. Totally bogged upon accelerating, went a block, then came the sound of a hubcap rolling down the street along with a check battery light, no power steering, and REALLY sucky brakes.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 7.3 that almost has everything practically brand new... new hpop, water pump, uvch, gpr, glow plugs, icp sensor, ipr sensor, cps and new turbo pedestal that was leaking oil, well now my truck has a cold start to where it has to be plugged in to start and when it finally does it smokes white pretty bad, misses and sounds like it's jumping around under the hood up until it warms up and revs fine with less white smoke but still a miss!!
Compression on test has been done, and good, fuel pressure is good, but the buzz test when cold shows 123457 muffled and quite and when the truck is warm only 3 and 4 are still muffled and quite? Injectors sticking?? Or just need New injectors!