What the sensor is for? In the course of removing the rough country bumper from my truck and installing the 2005-2007 factory front end I found this guy hanging out with wires cut. I haven't attempted to wire it back up because I want to know what it is first. It would appear that the sensor is suppose to be screwed in to something.
View 5 RepliesI have a little problem with my 1999 f250 7.3 power stroke diesel. Every once in awhile, while driving the truck would die completely but i switch it into neutral and started right up. What could be the problem?
View 9 RepliesBeen a while... Problem today while towing... I was in some hilly areas but nothing too .. I was pulling an unloaded trailer and experienced a significant loss of power and overheating. Engine started getting hot (almost to red) and then the transmission came up in temp. Made it to a rest area and all cooled down within 2 to 5 mins... but the strange thing about the power uphill is that it is happening at slow speeds as well... boost seems normal. Recently did the injector cups, so the thermostat is new (motorcraft), coolant is new, and put new o-rings on injectors.
View 14 RepliesSo my understanding is that if your turbo is leaking oil, you either need to rebuild it or get a new turbo cause the one you have is shot.
I have some oil leaking, but it's not a ton. One one of my buddies was telling me that it's possible that the amount that is leaking is normal due to the PCV (Pressure Control Valve) system, or something like that. Here are a few shots of the turbo, as well as the boots that are leading up to the turbo.
My friend and I were working on my truck and he was testing my AIH relay, as he was testing it the fuel pump was clicking on and off a few times over about 10 minutes. He explained that the current must be back feeding through the system and activating the pump. After testing the relay he determined that it non-functional / broken.
When we went to start it there was a strange buzzing from the fuse box area. After testing all of the fuses and then his code scanner not being able to connect to the truck we can only figure that the PCM is done.
The truck will turn over but not start. Any time the key is in the run position the buzzing noise is there unless you pull the PCM relay or the IDM relay. He says (I know very little about this stuff) that the IDM relay is trying to close but because the PCM is fried the IDM is not getting the signal to do so....?
So what now? Do I need a new PCM? He said something about it need to be reflashed to match the old one, is that right? Are all PCMs equal? What else should I know?
So I've been getting a whining sound coming from the transmission area. I checked my transmission fluid and it's nice and pink so I checked my transfer case fluid… It came out like black watery gear oil! How bad is this? I am putting synthetic Dex/Merc back in it. It's got me a tiny bit concerned.
View 9 Repliesi have a 99 f250 7.3 powerstroke. the cam sensor was acting up. that what the scan tool said. i replaced the cam position sensor yesterday, and the truck is still acting up. the motor hitches and will shut off randomly. it tripped the check engine light, and the code is the "cam position sensor" once the truck is warmed up and shut down for like 10 minutes the sensor will not act up anymore. if i just start the truck and run it, even once it is up to tempature it will act up. but if i shut the truck down for about 10 minutes, it goes away. is there something else that could be causing this?
View 14 RepliesSo after a hot drive yesterday we thought to do some googling about our clutch cycling on and off so fast. Yep, the airgap was out of spec. Fixed that.
Then we added some refrigerant to the truck. The truck is "new to us" and this is our first summer with it so not sure what might've gone on previously with the AC. Didn't take long to find a rather sizable leak. :P
See that metal tube going into the "spongy" area? Yeah, that's where it seems to be coming out. That tube is the only one that's cold, the rest are ambient temp. We fix a lot on our jeeps, but the AC system is naturally a bit out of our wheel house since it's not something you normally tangle with. Is this an easy fix? Or do we need to take it in to get serviced?
I have an new to me 1999 4x4 F350 that I was giving a good once over today on the front end since it wanders a little bit. but anyways I didnt see a abs sensor wire on the front. the plugs are there behind the inner fender well and it looks like there is a plug when the sensor should go in the wheel bearing. was 2 wheel abs an option on these trucks? is there anything else this changes front end wise?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 F-250 7.3L with 175,000 miles and it died on me July 30th. Here were the symptoms when it died:
Engine was sluggish at standard RPM about 1300-1500 going about 45 MPH, so I stepped on the gas and it seemed to go away. About another 5 miles down the road and starting from a stop, the same thing started happening. The entire truck seemed like it was going to shake itself apart and with the peddle at half throttle it revved to 3500 rpm and didn't shift into 2nd gear until after about 5 seconds at that RPM. After it jerked into 2nd gear the engine dropped back down to about 1000 RPM and started shaking violently again. At this point I managed to make it to a shopping center and then as soon as I let off the gas (still shaking), the engine dropped to 500 RPM and after about 15-30 seconds shut off. When I got the truck home I managed to start it one more time but it shortly stalled after about 15-30 seconds, again it was hovering around 500 RPM and still shaking badly.
Here is what happens when I try to start it:
From 0-2 seconds, truck goes through a normal cranking rhythm and sound.
From 2-10 seconds, it slowly tries to start itself back up but it sounds like it is only firing on a few cylinders, I'm guessing maybe 2-3.
I stopped after 10 seconds in fear of burning out the starter or killing the batteries.
Troubleshooting:
Removing the connection to the ICP sensor, something I read that might at least let me start the truck, which is how I found the oil on the connection itself. I also noticed a little bit of what looks like oil on the some of the wiring harnesses in the surrounding area. I also checked the fuel bowl and it is filled with fuel.
Possible solutions?:
From what I have read on the forums I am guessing that it has something to do with the ICP or the IPR sensors. I also believe that it is a sensor related issue considering that the truck won't even start. I am completely off track. I am going to start working on it full stride this weekend. I have been vehicle-less since the 30th so I'm trying to get this fixed asap. I don't have any codes, I am going to try to get a coder this weekend.
I am doing some maintenance and trying to replace my EBP tube and sensor. I luckily have the dual alternator package, so getting the tube in and out has been a pain to say the least. I can't for the life of me get the tube back into place. As always, a 20 minute job is taking me 2 days.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 7.3. Suddenly a week ago when I left work, I noticed my truck wasn't picking up much, but i was in a 40mph zone. I then jumped on the freeway and noticed the truck would not go over 60mph. Once I exited and got on another road with a 55mph speed limit, the truck would not go over 45mph, I had the pedal pressed all the way down and would not go over 2000 rpms. Also, for the transmission to shift, I would have to let off the accelerator.
View 1 RepliesI have a e99 f350 7.3 all stock. I have no power. The truck will crank for about 15-20sec before it'll turn over. I just purchased the*AE*but am fairly new to understanding it all. In idle its a little rough and when I drive I can only stay in the neighborhood because of fear of getting rearended due to very slow acceleration. Whats weird is that when i have no power while i am driving ill keep the pedal down throw it in nuetral and my rpms and*icp*pressure jump up right away. Things I've replaced:
Icp*sensor
Fuel pump
Pcm
Tps
Cps
Ipr
Dropped tanked and cleaned screens
When cranking my*icp*pressure climbs slowly to right under 500. I dont know what else to do ive been working on this truck dor two months some days 13hs straight, I am feeling defeated. Codes p1249 1211 1209....
2002 f250 7.3l diesel...
I got a new radiator and the tranny fluid was the worst the mechanic had ever seen. He serviced it and warned me that it might not be long for this world. I broke my flexplate and so I had to pull the tranny, and I decided to throw a new torque converter in because it was giving g me symptoms like a broken sprag( it wouldn't rev up or do a brake stand in gear, therefore slow takeoffs).
I was recommended to replace the tranny, I decided I could do the job again down the road if I needed to. About two thousand miles down the road I had a hard shift going from overdrive down to get up a hill and about 10 miles later the truck started slowing down....I couldn't give it enough pedal to keep it going and the engine sounded rough.
I pulled over and checked fluids and everything was fine, truck idled fine, bright red tranny fluid not burnt at all. Pulled on to the road again and it pulled fine until about 40 mph and it wouldn't go any faster. I got it towed home and ordered up a tranny from Ford figuring it must be toast, but I thought I'd throw it out to the forum to see if there is any other troubleshooting I can do before I install the new one in case it is some other problem or some electrical harness or something, or if that is a pretty standard reaction to a fried tranny.
Engine runs good at idle, shifts perfectly to drive and reverse, drives forward and back(I'm very hesitant to drive it out of the driveway in case I can't get it back in). Only happened two times before I decided to tow it. Temps looked fine on the gauges, fluid was a little overfilled in the tranny, but again, not hot or burnt.
Problem started 2 days ago, driving around and my truck would stumble and lose power. Give it gas, won't rev up but it cleared and ran fine for a mile or so then it comes back (off and on all the way home). Check engine light didn't come on the first few times, came on a couple times on the way home (maybe 4 mile trip) but goes off when the truck runs fine. Thinking it was maybe the fuel pump (got 140K on the stocker). Talked to a few friends, some thought it was algae build up in the tank that was clogging the filter on the pump, underhood filter changed a couple hundred miles ago. Looked fine with slight brown build up at bottom of bowl when I replaced it.
Ran it around yesterday with a friend of mine and his scan tool hooked up, acted up once, check engine came on for a few seconds and shutoff. No code and for some reason we couldn't get it to live data while driving. I dumped in an algae eater yesterday and left the truck overnight since I had to work. Got home this morning to run her around the block to circulate the eater. Truck started and idled fine, went to pull out and she won't rev up, pumped the gas and NOTHING! Check engine light is on now but don't have a scan tool handy to read it. I heard the truck will store the code?
What this problem might be? What's a good scan tool for our trucks that can live data as well? CPS is good and already did the UVCH mod.
Thats the sound coming from I think the front left area and the rate is proportional to speed. It only occurs at slow speed from about 5 to 15 mph and it seems to only occur for about 30% of each rotation. I plan to jack it up and check tire wobble or if the sound occurs during free spin. Any other things to check?
View 11 RepliesI have 1997 F250 LD since i bough it has been doing this chirping sound coming from the serpentine belt and the pulley area but when the truck has been working for 15 - 20 min it goes away
This is apart from the from the problem before I think the fan clutch is broken because when I start the truck I can hear the fan going at the same speed of the engine is that normal ? even when the truck is cold
My truck runs very rough and lacks power when cold, even during the Texas summer. Once it warms-up, everything is fine. It's almost like turning on a light switch. If it's plugged in for a couple/few hours, it's smooth as soon as it starts. I'm assuming it likes the oil once it reaches a specific temperature. What my problem is?
View 14 RepliesI want test my fuel pressure. What is a good gauge or kit to buy? My truck has lost power towing and is now starting to miss a little. I'm wandering if i my problem is in the tank. Is there a good scan tool that would diagnose things too?
View 14 RepliesNoticed a while back that the plug for what I assume is the air intake temp sensor is looped. I assume because I can't find the sensor anywhere. how critical is the sensor? The new S&B has a hole for it so it's either gonna need a new sensor or a plug. The local autozone has one for 16.99.
View 12 RepliesI need to install an oil pressure sensor sending unit. I've already occupied the 1/8"NPT test port on the rear of the oil cooler, where else might I be able to tap into oil pressure? (LPOP)
View 4 Replies