Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Seems Like Air Coming From The Oil Pan - Normal?
May 23, 2017
We did a Cody test and found the injector orings leaking and replaced them.
Did the test over and now hear air coming from the oil pan. Is that normal?
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What is the effect will some oil contamination is the cooling system?
Does it significantly affect the cooling efficiency? I have some oil the coolant on my boat. I do not believe it is a lot maybe a few oz, but I have been chasing some unexplained overheating issues. Will adding water wetter solve oil issues (if there are any). The other option is Dawn and several cycles of flushing the system. ie until the cows come home!
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I just got a new redhead steering gear installed by a shop. it made turning the wheel much more laborious so redhead sent me another gear but after that one was installed it was the same way. it also had about a half an inch of play and when the truck is not moving i cannot really turn the wheel at all. is this normal?
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What's too big? I just put 33s on my super duty, is it "too much" for the transmission?
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I have a 2002 F350 7.3 with 76,000 miles (still a baby) ... about a week or 2 ago i got in my truck and went to start it like normal, except instead of whipping over and firing right up in the snap of a finger, it kinda had a slower cranking time and took a second or 2 longer than normal. My first thought was maybe the battery's, BUT there basically brand new !!! not even a year old !!! ... so i figured maybe a starter, but i just left it as is, it still ran normal after firing.... Until this morning, I went to go start it and it cranked over 3 or 4 times real slow and would crank any more, it did this to me multiple times. Its acting like dead batteries so i put a jump pack on it, no change. I am thinking maybe a starter ....
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I just installed the Donaldson B085011 filter last night. I understand the swoosh noise when shifting is normal. But, I noticed a chirpping when coasting. I first suspected suspension parts maybe but after reading on here could it be surge? I've seen some videos of what surge sounds like and it does sound like that but most people say it only happens under load and I'm hearing it just coasting down my farm market road to a stop sign without hauling anything. I'm researching billet compressor wheels now. Am I on the right trail to resolve this?
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I just started having an issue on my 01 7.3 f350 with 203k miles, it will crank much longer then normal to start. If you shut it off then try to restart right away it starts normal, if you wait 10 minutes long crank again. if you shut it off and turn key back on but don't start it you can wait an hour then start right away. IDM bad? Vacation in 2 weeks and I would like to get this fixed first.
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I got a friend of mine that owns a 2000 F350 7.3 with around 280,000 miles. He said that the past 2 days its been turning over longer then normal before it fires. Once started, engine runs same as it always has. No sputtering or hesitations, idles fine, etc. However today, he drove to work, shut it off, then went to start it back up 10 or so mins later and now it will only turn over. Said he's getting fuel and compression is good. Unfortunately i dont know much about Diesel engines.
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My power steering pump camp keeps coming off. Almost like it's got too much pressure. I'm stumped as to why but it makes a mess whenever it comes off.
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I would I have a 01 7.3 e350 with 111k miles. I drove the van a couple of days ago.it sat for 2 days and now it wont go past 30mph.the van shakes crazy and went when i hit the petal no power with smoke coming out the tail pipe sometimes. When I shut the van off and restart it to drive it,it sounds better. I changed the fuel filter with motorcraft and changed the oil. Here is the kicker. It ran good after I changed the fuel filter the whole day and now its 4th of july and I went to get some drinks and it happened again.
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Recently I came across a guy parting out his F-250 with a 7.3 powerstroke. Said it had a blown engine, and didn't know what was wrong, but oil was coming out of the exhaust.
My question here is why that's happening. I don't have any experience with the powerstrokes, so I'd like to know what the culprit is before I even consider buying it.
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I just reinstalled my turbo and started the truck up to test it. After 15 seconds or so it shut down so I hopped out to take a look. I had about a gallon of oil coming down around the starter. All I did was reinstall the turbo (I had previously installed without the rear pipe hooked up). I can't see where the leak is coming from but this thing is not even remotely drive-able. My best guess is the pedestal somewhere?
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Leaving on a 200 mile trip in the morning and when checking the fluids, I found the serpentine belt trying to get off the AC pulley. I've put in on twice and it immediately jumps half way off when starting the engine. How long it's been doing this. Nothing is obviously loose or moved. What is likely causing this?
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What causes oil coming out of the oil spouts on the injectors? I pulled my VC to re torque my injectors down and I noticed 2 of mine are now leaking oil out the spouts(when warming the engine). Note I did not say the base of the injector.
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I currently have a 2003 F-250 6.0 with 112,000 miles on it. While traveling interstate speeds (70+) and the I can hear the cooling fan rev up and down every 10-15 seconds. Is this normal?
Also when it spins up, it sounds normal then make a high pitched squealing noise. Thoughts?
I am also needing to rebuild the fuel bowl. I noticed DieselOrings offers rebuilds for the 7.3 but not the 6.0. Will these fit or any suggestions on parts?
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2002 F250 7.3 4WD Lariat 129K miles ... Brake lights come on when truck is off/no key ...
Ford replaced VSM in Nov. 2012 for this problem
Ford found rubbing wire upon pedal depression and re-routed wiring in April 2015, again for this same problem.
What gives. I'm hesitant to take it back to the Ford house... any theories??
Also, when ignition is in "on" position, transmission and coolant gauge register "cold". Upon starting, coolant stays at "cold" but tranny gauge immediately goes in to "normal" range. Shouldn't it also say it's still "cold"?
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I noticed a couple weeks ago after starting the truck and turning on the a/c that nothing was coming out of the vents. I found it odd when after driving a few miles the a/c kicked in and started blowing cold air. Today I needed to put on the defrost and same thing, nothing came out of the vents. I drove around for a while hoping it would kick in just like the a/c did but nothing. I did check the fuses and relay. When you turn the control either to heat or a/c you can hear a clicking sound under the hood. It's trying to engage but nothing is coming out of the vents.
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The last week or so I have been having a screeching belt sound driving me insane in my 2003 F-250 7.3. After further investigating I have found out it is coming from my 11 month old GTP38R bearing. It has an aftermarket billet compressor wheel in it and I sold the factory wheel when I installed the Billet wheel. Where to locate a factory Garrett GTP38R wheel? All I can find online are Billet wheels or random off brands. At this point I would even trade my Billet wheel for a factory 38R wheel.
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I had a leak coming from the top of the transmission. The antifreeze appears to be getting into the transmission because when I pull the stick it's a chocolate/white fluid and both the antifreeze and the transmission fluid are new. So, I am talking to two transmission places, trying to decide which one to go with and what to ask them to install because it seems I have different choices depending on what I want the truck to do. I will be using it to haul dirt and farm items, pull a 20 ft cargo hauler, maybe a rv some day.
The transmission guys are throwing all kinds of lingo out there I don't understand. and the price is anywhere from 2500 to 5000 for the tranny. Also they tell me what is included and what is to be changed out but I don't know if it's "everything". One guy said that the "John Woods" brand of tranny is what I want. Also I think my stock engine is fine. A cylinder contribution test shows only one with an issue and it seems to rev fine. The glow plugs need to be replaced I think. Where I'm getting here is if later I have to replace/rebuild the engine should I get a bigger tranny now?
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I recently had a flat tire - Schwabs fixed it. Then told me my rear brakes were bad so I replaced them. I noticed when coming to a stop the last 20-30 feet you can really feel the front end vibrate - almost like it is in 4wd but it is not. I checked the hubs and they are on auto and lifted the truck to spin the wheels and made sure everything was dis-engaged. My front rotors were bad so I replaced them and the pads thinking it was the root cause. I also greased the front wheel bearings using the little tool from riffraff diesel where you take out the speed sensor and insert grease.
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In the last couple of days my battery light comes on after about 30 mins of steady driving. I have no starting issues as of late. Batteries have been tested under load and checked out okay. Alternator is a few months old. Other than the battery light coming on there no other
problems, yet. Is my alternator over charging? A couple of month ago my truck would shut off when I turned a/c or heater on in the mornings. My alternator was over charging. After I replaced it I had no more problems. Could any of this be related to the life time led bulbs that I'm using?
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