I have rust everywhere but mostly surface rust. For those who use fluid film, should I just buy a few cans and paint the whole under truck with it? Do you wipe off access?
View 14 RepliesSomeone just told me I need to put additive in coolant so the injectors don't rust. I've never heard of this.
View 14 RepliesI made the plunge and picked up a 02 f250 with 7.3. 200000 miles runs and shifts smooth. Just a little rust issues I need to fix before they get bad. Figured I'd stop in ....
View 9 RepliesWhile turning very slow and sharp on the farm, I heard a pop under the hood. I then lost power steering and brakes. I saw power steering fluid spurting in the left tire well behind the tire. Look under hood and saw fluid coming from a fitting on the side of the power steering pump. I have attached a photo....one photo with nothing and then other with a screw driver tip on the fitting.
It appears that the the pressure fitting blew out the side when I turned sharp. It has a nut from which it came (compression of some sort?). I can push the nipple of the fitting back into the nut but I guess the pressure is gone.
I just noticed a small leak (red PS fluid) coming from the rear of my hydroboost in the truck (while working on my shift tube replacement this past weekend). The carpet is not wet, but there is a drip hanging on the rear end of the HB waiting to start leaking itself on the carpet. Also, there appear to be no issues with either braking or steering -- all is smooth, firm, steady, and quiet.
I have nearly 290K miles on the truck, replaced the Master Cylinder probably 8 years ago at roughly 150K miles. I no longer spend nearly as much time on the road as I used to (probably 8K miles per year now compared to a previous eight-year long run at 18-20K miles per year.
Questions.
1) Should I go ahead and replace the HB before it gets worse (I don't know how fast the fade when they start this process)?
2) If I replace the HB, should I go ahead and proactively replace the MC along with it since I'll have the whole system wide open?
My transmission on my 2002 7.3 4x4 is pouring fluid from somewhere above the rear of the pan. I thought it was the pan at first. I pulled it off and replaced the filter. After adding fluid while it was running for 4 or 5 minutes it started pouring again. It's not the pan. It's coming from above the pan somewhere. It won't leak unless it's running. Is there a place it can leak on top??
View 7 RepliesI am changing the rear Diff fluid in my 1999 F250 Super Duty with limited slip differential. I have read in the manual that 8 ounces of friction modifier is required, ford dealer said it only required 4 ounces. I bought 8.
Also I asked for a inspections plate gasket and ford said use silicone... When I removed inspection plate it had a gasket. So, silicone or gasket or both? Differential capacity is 6.9 pints 75w/140w synthetic.
I don't have ready access to my truck and I'm trying to buy new cooling parts when I rip out/replace my transmission. I searched the forum but can't find the simple answer I'm looking for regarding the route of the transmission fluid for cooling.
In my 2001, I thought the fluid comes out of the transmission to the radiator, then back to the transmission from last time I was looking at it underneath. But in the forum, it sounds the fluid would come out of the radiator and then into the air cooler in front of the radiator before back to the transmission.
Like the title says I dropped about a 2 inch piece of small washer fluid hose in my cylinder while evacuating the oil from it . Will it damage the valves If I ran it? Any way to remove it without removing the head?
View 14 RepliesJust pulled into campground pulling 5ver transmission started pouring fluid from inspection plate. Only does when running but it's a gusher. Fluid is nice and red and didn't smell burnt. What should I expect when I have towed to shop?
View 5 RepliesSaturday morning my grandpa drove my F350 into town pulling our 4-horse trailer (With living quarters). I wasn't with him, but I was told the following: he started smelling something hot and noticed the O/D light start flashing. Now, this man is not the most intelligent man on the planet and uses the O/D to "slow down the engine" when he starts and stops - i.e. uses it as trailer breaks. I have asked repeatedly for him to quit, but as best as I can tell, he continues to do so.
After the burning smell, a driver pulled up next to him and pointed down - he looked to see smoke and the truck puking fluid everywhere. He said he thought the truck lost power because he couldn't get it to move. Ended up getting it towed. The tow truck driver checked my fluid level and said I had an extremely small amount of transmission fluid left in the truck...which made sense as the fluid was all on the ground underneath, lol. Fluid was NOT red and looked really gross and there was DEFINITE burnt smell to it.
My question is this - what in the world could have caused the truck to do this (I read that is could be from overheating?), and what should be my next course of action? It is home and in my backyard right now (Classy!). It starts and runs fine, but since there is little to no fluid left, you have to hammer down on it to get it to go anywhere. It does move, however.
Re packed / cleaned my hubs. Did a 600 mile trip and front driveshaft is locked again. Am trying for first time soaking them. They are in tranni fluid right now. I can't afford warn hubs. Is there any other tricks? Or will I have to soak them every few months?
View 13 RepliesI've got a 7.3 tranny that has had ELC Coolant and water mixed in with tranny fluid because of a bad radiator. I drained the fluid from the tranny a week ago and when I pulled off the pan today there is still junk in there. I'm planning on putting in a new filter, gasket and Mercon V but how do I clean the old stuff out of there? Picture.....
View 14 RepliesOK, so a friend's F150 just went up in flames in his driveway and he told me that the problem was the hot link behind a plastic/ rubber barrier at the main brake cylinder. I had a recall notice on my old truck but since I left the US and took the truck I never paid much attention to it, thinking typical overkill. Now I already heard from another buddy who caught lit brake fluid dripping onto the front tire and got the fire out before it spread and looked up the info today. Looks like our trucks are affected. Best to unplug the harness that goes into the brake master cylinder will prevent this problem from occurring? I never use cruise where I am, the roads are too small and slow.
View 6 RepliesI was out with the F350, drw, automatic, 7.3, 4 x 4, yesterday about 30 miles from home base. The transmission started pumping fluid out the front like I have never seen before. I am not talking a drip, I am talking a stream, a big one..... almost like pouring coffee from a coffee pot. I noticed it when I was backing into unload and was leaving an oil trail, a quite obvious one.
We took off the tc cover as it was coming off that to find a dry tc and flywheel, but fluid running out off the case. This is the second time this trans left me high and dry in 165k miles. The first time was a stripped tc/ input shaft. We repaired the transmission then but I don't think we replaced much besides being sure no debris went though everything, fixed what was broken. That was about 25,000 miles ago.
I have a 2000 F250 4x4, it has been sitting in my garage for about 3 weeks. I cranked it up and backed it up about 10'. A few hours later I noticed a lot of transmission fluid on the floor. I remember hearing a hissing sound when I cut it off but didn't think anything about it. The fluid is on passengers side of truck, right side of the engine. Most of fluid is toward the rear but some ran down in front of the axle also. It's up high also, I've got fluid on rear of valve cover. I've cranked it up and let it run but can't get it to leak. Where did all this fluid come from?
View 5 RepliesLong story short I am working on an engine that was already dismantled (down to the heads). I am trying to figure out why someone tore the engine down. Vehicle is a recovered theft and it was recovered with all parts.
I removed the exhaust manifolds from the heads to start cleaning them up and replacing the exhaust bolts (rust). When I removed the exhaust manifolds the front two cylinders on the right side (1 and 3) were oily wet. The back two cylinders were sooty and normal. The front cylinder (2) on the left side was not as bad but did have a oily film on top of the valve and valve stem. I do not see any indication of anti freeze or coolant.
I looked at the head gasket and could feel a oil film between layers on 1 and 3. No oil on 2 that I could detect. I'm thinking there was a head gasket problem but not totally convinced. The cylinders and pistons look good from the top and the cylinders still show the cross hatch honing. No ridge on the top of the cylinder either. The motor has 122k miles on it.
Other than head gasket would there be something in common that could feed oil to those cylinders? I have eliminated the turbo. There is no oily film on any intake runners. It could just be a blown head gasket but it is not obvious if it is.
Began doing this on sunday and just finished up last night. Truck starts and runs for a bit then stalls. Here is what I did in this order:
1.) Washed truck sundday with purple power and a garden hose. I washed the wheel wells frame and underside, but DID NOT wash the engine at all.
2.) Painted the frame and wheel wells with black paint.
3.) Applied 1/2 gallon or so of fluid film all over the bottom of the truck everywhere I can. Again NOT the engine bay.
Where to start. When it stalled, I can restart every time by waiting 3-5 minutes. It was 13 degrees F last night, so i suspect fuel lines may be freezing but not sure.
Well I finally had time to change out my composite oil pan to the metal one. Nothing was wrong with the old one but Ive seen the composite pans get hit by a rock and crack so I decide to get the metal one. It didnt take long once I had the oil drained and its very easy to get to. Once i had the old pan off I did find two piece of sludge stuck to the oil pickup screen, they had a sliver of aluminum in them. My oil reports have been coming back with high aluminum content so I am not really sure what to think being my motor had 33k miles on it now.
I also changed out the fuel filter and when I dropped the frame mounted filter I found about a teaspoon of rust in it. I'm not one to run my truck down to E but I admit I did so twice since the last filter change. Since I found the fuel filter kit for 60 buck(ford dealer wanted $140) I think I will move my fuel filter changes to 10k miles instead of 15k. Last but not least I also added SPE 6.7 Full Lock Diff Kit which allows the locked rear end to stay engaged past 20 mph. It was a simple 10 min installation with just a few wires and easy directions to follow
New oil pan
Composite pan
Old pan off and view of oil pickup
Two pieces of sludge that came off oil pickup screen
New pan on
Rust in the bottom
Truck is a 2011. What about fixing?
View 10 Replies1999 Ford F-150 4WD
5.4L Triton V8
114k miles
So my check engine light came on a few days ago and I went down to Autozone to check it out with the code reader. The result was "Cylinder 4 Misfire" (the guy said that was as far as the diagnosis would go...) and since I just replaced the spark plugs under 1,000 miles ago, I figured it must be the ignition coil (I replaced coils 1, 7 and 8 about 100 miles ago too).
When I removed the coil, the outside was fully covered in rust, the spring had a tiny bit of rust, and it smelled a little like gasoline. After replacing the coil, the check engine light went off, however the engine still runs rough and doesn't sound much different than before.
What the issue might be? Would a compression test or a better code reader diagnosis give me more insight? I live in Louisiana where we get a decent amount of rain and humidity, so I'm worried there might be a moisture issue down around the spark plug. Also, the exhaust seems hotter than normal and the engine gets pretty hot in a short amount of time.