Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Running Lights Not Working
Mar 9, 2017
A little background information is that I was towing a large gooseneck trailer about a year ago when half way to the destination the lights quit. Not just the trailer but the truck tail lights, turn signals and everything except the headlights. Well after getting there and unplugging everything it stayed the same. Well on the way home without the trailer the lights began working again. All the truck lights acted as it never happened. No blown fuses or anything.
Well things are are going ok since then but I can never get running lights to any of my 3 trailers to work. Turns and brake lights are fine. What gives? All the fuses are fine and the truck running lights work just fine. One thing I have noticed is that on my horse trailer I have the little led lights on the sides operational... I would have assumed these to be the same as the tail running lights.
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I have a 2003 F250 7.3L. I put new injectors in my truck four months ago and all of a sudden, I have 2 cylinders not working correctly, making the truck to run really badly. I sent the 2 injectors from the bad cylinders back for warranty and they replaced both of the injectors but nothing was wrong. I put them in and the truck still runs badly. I have a new fuel filter, new ICP, new CPS and glow plug relay. I cannot drive the truck, it smokes white at idle. I can unplug each injector at a time and cyclinder 5 does not change how the truck runs
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I have a mostly stock '02 F-250.
The other day I parked the truck and as I was walking away I could hear what sounded like the 4x4 clicking on and off. I wasn't sure. I figured I would continue to run the truck to get more symptoms and come up with a diagnosis.
Later, backing out of the driveway, I heard what sounded like a buzzing/grinding noise, like something was trying to engage. It quickly went away.
The next day, the 4x4 light came on as I merged onto the interstate. I pulled over, tried switching the ESOF switch to get it to turn off. I never heard 4x4 engage or "felt" it. Re-starting the truck got the light to turn off. It hasn't been on since.
Today the truck made more buzzing/grinding noises. When I tried turning on 4 high with the ESOF switch I got no response. It went into 4 low and the light came on.
I re-started the truck. Tried putting it into 4 high again and the light came on. When I put it into 4 low the light quit and wouldn't come back on.
I run with my hubs unlocked and they were unlocked at the time, FYI. Also, I have air coming out of the vents, so no vacuum issues. I actually disconnected the 4x4 vacuum lines because I don't use the automatic locking future anyways.
I did do some work with my truck and boat during the flood in Louisiana and I took her through really sketchy stuff. My guess is that the ESOF motor is shot, most likely from being submerged.
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I have looked all over the Internet, but I can't find out how to change the lights on the dashboard. I have checked all the fuses. I have no clue have to check the dimmer switch. Though, the over head light does come on when I turn on the switch. All the lights for the check engine and such light up. The dash will not light up during the night. Someone told me that there should be a youtube video or a how to steps. I am very new to fixing my new to me truck. I have checked the how to steps on this forum and a few others.
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My 16 year old F250 4X4 diesel has developed a problem with no backup lights working, and the vacuum pump is not getting power. The fuse (#28) checks out OK, and I'm told to check for a broken wire on or near the backup switch. I don't know where to locate the backup switch. I have the huge Ford Service manuals, but they are written with the perspective that you should already know where the switches are. Where to find the switch?
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I installed a new trailer wiring harness onto the back of my 2002 F250 Super Duty with 7.3 diesel engine. Unfortunately, I was 180 degrees off on my wiring. When I hooked up to the camper I blew Fuse #115 (Trailer Tow Battery Charge) as it connected directly to the camper ground wire. I replaced the 20amp fuse and all other fuses were good. Currently, I have all the truck wires to the harness isolated and have power to all of them except for the parking lights. All the lights on the truck work fine.
My truck has a interior fuse panel on the driver's side as well as two small black boxes under the hood, near the brake booster. The under-hood boxes had only relays in them. Two relays in one black box, three in the other. The box with three relays had trailer left turn and right turn relays. which worked fine. The third in that box, apparently, is for the A/C clutch, controlled by fuse #10. The other black box (with two relays), apparently, are for 4WD Shift on the fly, controlled by fuse #111. So, no relay for the parking lights.
Next, I pulled the fuse panel out a little and checked continuity from the end of the parking light wire (brown with white stripe) at the back of the truck to the back of the fuse box and found that it was a good wire with no breaks or shorts to ground, however no voltage is showing at the parking light wire when I turn on the parking lights. The harness at the back of the fuse box has several wires going into it. The parking light wire (brown with white stripe) is in the same harness as the back-up light wire (black with green stripe) and the back-up light does have voltage, when I put it in reverse.
I'm not sure what happens inside of the fuse box, i.e., how does one fuse run a few wires... is there some kind of circuit board? I know the easy way would be to run a vampire connector from the truck parking lights, or maybe the license plate light to power the trailer lights, however, I'm just not built that way.
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Well today the tach was not working at all and the check gauge, check engine and glow plug lights are staying on. Truck runs and starts great, everything else seems to work except the trans temp gauge. Did a search for the GEM and could not find anything that indicates the GEM controls the tach and warning lights.
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Is there a fuse or something to check? All other lights work, just book the running lights
2006 f250 4x4 CC
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luckily about 5 minutes from home my trailer running lights AND the lights on my dump truck body stopped working. i assume they hooked the lights to my dump body to the trailer lights. i was towing an old trailer that has electrical issues so I'm sure that caused it. Under the hood there is a 30 amp fuse #26 that i think is the culprit. (All the other similar fuses are shiny and that one is kinda black). I've never bought fuses like this before, what type is it? it's a big square one. Are they available at auto zone? Does the whole thing pull out and do you need a special tool for it?
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My truck is a 2007 F-350 DRW. I'm not sure when,because I don't use it much in Texas, but My Four Wheel Indicator lights on the dash quit working. I don't see them in the dash at startup either. I'm not sure if the four wheel drive is coming on at all. There is probably a way to check that without driving off into a mud bog, right? Anyway I have looked for blown fuses etc, no luck yet. (15amp#33 under dash and 30amp#3 under hood). These are according to my manual.
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I have a 03 F-350, 7.3L. There is a slow oil leak that only leaks after I've run the truck. In other words, it doesn't just sit and leak overnight. I'll park it after running, and the next morning I'll notice a small pool of oil, approximately 2" in diameter. The leak appears to be coming from the oil pan area. I degreased the entire oil pan area to get a better visual of where the leak is coming from. I can see oil trailing down the front of the oil pan and the rear of the oil pan. Does this sound like the gasket? Or, what else could it be? I'm praying its not as bad as I think and need to replace the gasket.
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Last November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
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I have a 2001 ford 7.3l powerstroke diesel. When I first noticed the problem I was towing a trailer going up a grade and got into the throttle almost to the floor and noticed a loss of power and the service engine soon light flashing extremely rapidly a few times and never came back on. I made it home, still lacking power but not running rough. I drove the truck to work the next day and the truck was running rougher and loosing power. It ran great through lower RPM's but seemed to trip as soon as you gave it over half throttle. eventually the truck wouldn't run right at all and lacked complete power. It idled rough as well. My mechanic threw the computer on it and it said injector pressure reading too high or too low.
I was told to replace the IPR on the HPOP and I did. (I also replaced the fuel filter and changed the oil). After replacing the IPR it ran great, had full power! then it began to slowly die like it did before until it sounded like it was running off 4 cylinders again. I pulled the ipr out, cleaned it and changed the oil again. It seemed to clear it up for an hour and ran great but then began ran rough again. I also replaced the CPS sensor. I feel like its not getting enough fuel or something, im just wondering if it could be the ICP or the lift pump. There is no check engine light at all. Its just got me stumped because cleaning the IPR clears everything up.... temporarily.
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Where I should start? My 7.3 is running but losing all power. Pumping the fuel pedle will get it started and it will run for a few then lose everything again. Should i just drop the tank and check the sending unit and intake and filters first then work my way up?
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2000 F250, 7.3, 170K, running rough, knocking loudly, missing, shaking, no power to get up driveway, intermittent, no codes spit out at all. No smoke visible, no leaks visible, New fuel filter, air filter, update cam sensor, new fuel rail lift pump, new uvc harness, new glow plug relay.
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Well, I was headed out from work this morning, on my way to fill up as I was a bit below 1/4 tank.
Truck was running good, like normal, until after 5-6 minutes, when it started running rough and had no power. Worried, I pulled off the side of the road. As I did so, it died, and wouldn't start again.
I whipped out my phone, pulled up TorquePro, and ran a code check. Nada. Well, it sounds to me like it's not getting fuel possibly, so I figure the best way to check, is to drain the fuel filter bowl, and crank it some, and check the bowl. No fuel in bowl.
Wifey came to pick me up with the can of diesel I keep for starting my forge (had 3 gal maybe?). Poured it in the tank, cranked it, no start. Still nothing in the bowl.
I'm taking her to work now, so she won't be late, then I'm headed back with a full can of diesel.
If that full can still won't get it, should I keep shuttling diesel cans, or should 8 gal or so be enough to get it back to the fuel pickup level? And if it's not fuel level, what else should I start checking on the side of the road?
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I have had this happen twice now. Starts fine, idles fine, then either sitting or just driving a block or two it starts running very rough, no smoke that I remember seeing, and now no power. Barely makes it up a hill. The first time I thought is was related to the heavy rain the night before. I had the tow truck coming and decided to try it again, this was after a few hours sitting. Ran perfectly. The second time, no wetness/rain, pulled away from the house and in a block or two, same thing ... rough, no smoke, no power. Pulled back into driveway, turned off for a minute, restarted and ran fine. Ran perfect today. What is the best injector cleaner to use in the fuel?
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2002 F250 7.3L suddenly idling and running very rough, and doesn't have any power. Truck has been running perfect, it's my daily driver, and just put a couple hundred miles on it yesterday with no problems. I had been having some transmission issues when I tow heavy so I bought a new transmission yesterday. This morning I pulled the truck into my garage to change the transmission. Again truck ran fine, no signs of any issues before the trans swap. I changed out the transmission, which included unhooking the trans wiring harness from all the various sensors, and unbolting the starter.
I didn't mess with anything in the engine bay except for unhooking the batteries. I had also repaired the overdrive button wires, as they had been pinched in the steering column and the button wasn't working. When I got everything hooked back up I cranked it up to get the trans fluid flowing through the transmission, it started right up and idled good. I had it running for a few minutes and it was beginning to make a little more noise than usual. When I started to back out of the garage it was getting pretty rough, almost like it was running out of diesel. I put it in neutral and gave it some throttle and noticed I was getting white smoke out of the exhaust and could smell diesel pretty strong.
I checked my injector resistance at the valve covers and got around 4 ohms +/- on all of the injectors. I rechecked all of the clips and harness that I had messed with. I took a look at the ICP sensor and it has oil in the connector which I know can cause a rough running condition in some cases. It looks like it has had oil on it for a while. I unhooked the batteries again for about 20 minutes to try and reset anything that may have messed up. I checked a bunch of connections under the hood to see if anything was unhooked or loose.
I also cleaned up the connector on the ICP sensor. I started the truck back up and it idled perfect so I pulled it back out of the garage and headed down the driveway. It almost immediately started running rough again and barely had the power to go up a small hill. I pulled back in and tried unplugging the ICP while it was running, which made a slight difference in the idle but still very rough. I plugged it back in and the idle progressively got worse until it was chugging really bad. I shut it off after that and haven't messed with it again.
What might have happened? Could it be a bad sensor or transmission position sensor in the new trans? Is it just coincidence that this happened with a transmission swap? I am going to get a new ICP, but if there is anything else I can try/check before I can pick up the ICP on Monday let me know.
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I was wondering if fuel injectors throw a code when it goes out. I have a 02 7.3 been running rough when you accelerate bogs down and looses power not sure but sometimes gas light would come on knowing I have gas in it could that be a sign of the sending unite and that's why it runs rough..
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No start. Changed starter solenoid. Changed starter. Now it runs although when I turn the key to the off position and remove it the engine continues. The only way to get it to shut down is remove the small wire from the positive on the battery and then turning the key to the off position or vise versa. The machine seems to be pulling power even when completely shut down. The batteries drain power with "nothing on" i d m shot? Someone stop me before I go to the dealer.
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I have had the PSD about 2 months. It's a 2000 Ext cab LXT.
If you open the door, no lights. If the key is in the ignition and you open the door it buzzes. If you have the light on, the light around the door locks and window controls stay on after you turn off the truck until you open the door. The dome light never comes on unless you use the switch on the light. What's up with the darkness! This truck is like a cave! No under dash lights, no door lights no dome light! As for those red lenses on the door, no wiring, no lights no nada! Do the lights com on when you open the door? Any light?
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