Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Rounded Off Thermostat Housing Bolts
Oct 25, 2016
Tried to flush it and got as far as draining everything. I can't hook up my T and begin the flushing process because I can't remove the thermostat. I have a buddy who can get the bolt out but I'd have to be able to drive the truck to him. I've tried just about everything to remove it. I did manage to find some replacements for when I do get the last one out though .Is there a way to still flush this thing like maybe just hook up the hose to the t and run the engine with the heat on to open the thermostat?
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So I tried to replace my thermostat and housing and the housing bolt snapped off. Ok so I tried to extract that bolt off and the extractor bolt snapped off inside. I am guessing it might just be easiest to replace the water pump now? I am pretty much at the end of my mechanical rope which is short anyhow.
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My serp belt started squealing so I pulled the thermostat housing to inspect the rubber gasket. It looked OK, but I cleaned up both surfaces and replaced with a new gasket, and put it back together. The housing was replaced just a couple months ago along with new hoses. It was not corroded and OK to reuse.
Started the truck up and saw a slowish/steady drip of red Cat ELC dripping on the driveway. Opened the hood up again and carefully inspected around the thermostat housing - no coolant is leaking there.
I did notice the same slow/steady drip coming from just behind and beneath the thermostat housing. See in pic, this is where it is dripping. One other question, what is this plug for on the side of the water pump?
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'06 powerstroke, 215k stock
Doing a coolant flush, took the thermostat out but cannot figure out how to get it out of the housing.
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I fit yesterday my ProComp Leaf Springs 22415 in the back of my Ex. It took about 3hours with a couple of beers to get the work done. Are those springs huge and heavy.
I will change the front springs in about 2 weeks, but we figured out, that we will need there 4 longer Semi-rounded U-Bolts, because the leaf package is about an 1/2-3/4 inch thicker than the OEM-springs. My OEM are a 2Leaf Springs and those ProComps 22410 are 5 Leafs.
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Would it be a good idea to change the injector hold down bolts when I do the injector o-rings? They have never been out at 333,000 miles.
Plan on doing glow plugs, injector wiring, valve cover gasket's, intercooler pipes and the dreaded oil cooler.
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Just bought a 03, the seller showed me a exhaust leak. I found a bolt broken off, flush with the head. Looked at the passenger side when I got home, that side leaks too, and found one broken off bolt there too. Question, are these easy to do? As in, I have extracted broken bolts before, but they where on my V10 and I could just weld nuts to them and they came right out.
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So I had recently developed a leak in the up pipes behind the collector. Big surprise, right?
Well, a 6-point socket was spinning on the collector bolts (probably from rust) so I decided to cut the manifold to up pipe bolts. Got the up pipes off/out. Well after and <acronym title="Manifold Absolute Pressure">MAP</acronym> gas torch, I can't punch ANY of the bolts out.
There is little to no room to get to the bolts. (I have the down pipe removed.) At this point I'll try a few more doses of hot wrench and PB Blaster, but if I have to do the manifolds I'll just pull the engine, since chances are there will be at least one stuck bolt there, too. I really don't want to go that, but eventually I'll need to install my new oil pan anyway.
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I have been reading here about alternate methods to torquing the hold down bolts for the injectors. This winter I replaced my old stock split shots with new alliant single shots. I installed the injectors into a cold engine and torqued the hold down bolts to 10 ft lbs. I did not ever go back and re-tighten.
Is it suggested to go in and re-tighten the injector hold down bolts to 10 ft-lbs after the engine has been heated up and cooled down? What are some symptoms of a loose injector? I am imagining premature wear on the injector cups, low compression and maybe some mixing of oil into the combustion chamber.
Did just throw the injectors in and go back later to retorque only to find they were all fine or were some loose?
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Are we supposed to put anti sieze on the turbo to pedestal bolts. They were really hard to break loose when I pulled it Cheater bar tight. 18 ft. lbs sound right ?
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Was wondering if the wheel for the ported housing from riffraff is worth it. Also, since I'm lazy I was gonna just spin the old wheel off with an impact wrench. I have a cordless that's prett stout but I'm sure I'll have to use air. Any thoughts on the wheel and taking the stocker off this way?
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The truck has been a dream for several months and I had a coolant leak at the thermostat outlet. Changed the fitting and thermostat and sealed with lots of blue monkey snot. It's been perfect for a couple months but a week ago it started leaking again. Exactly the same as last time. I cleaned the mating surface of the water pump with a plastic scraper to remove the old sealer and then finished it with fine scotch brite. I looked at several parts breakdowns and none of them showed a gasket.......
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I read 18lbs for the water pump but it took a cheater bar (perhaps due to corrosion) to get the water pump lower elbow bolts off.
On reinstallation, what should the lower elbow bolts be torqued to? Checked the sticky (Ziggy's Torque Specs) but didn't see the specs for this item.
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I wanted to know what happens when the injector hold down bolts are not torqued down to spec, what problems would arise and could it be a reason for somewhat hard starting?
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I'm presently traveling and my '02 F-250 with a 7.3 PowerStroke has developed a pretty steady drip of what I am almost sure is diesel fuel. It's dripping from the very front, from the shroud around the fan and radiator area.
I have some basic tools with me, but no experience on this engine or the fuel system. Does the fuel line go up into the radiator area? What should I be looking for? I'm stranded in a campground until I figure this out.
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So, I just got my turbo back from my pal Ruben at SoCal Porting (does good work fast and inexpensive) and, I have a question about the exhaust housing with the EBPV.
Is there a gasket that goes between the turbine housing and the adapter that the down pipe mounts to? And, if so, what is the part number for it? If it's steel to steel cool. If not, I'd prefer to put the OEM gasket in there versus permatex or something similar.
Pic of the compressor housing with a little port work....
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3l 4x4 and the fuel filter housing is leaking real bad from either the back or under it. I need to get info on parts that i would need as well.
[URL]....
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I am having trouble finding an oil leak on my truck. the oil is coming out of the weep hole on the bottom of the bell housing where the cover over the torque converter is. There is no oil in the front of the valley under the fuel bowl/hpop. But there is a small puddle in the rear of the valley. I have changed all the turbo pedestal orings. Maybe the ebpv rod? But i cant see it leaking from there so im not sure where its coming from. Also have to do the front main as is leaks a little onto my lower radiator hose. How difficult are those?
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I'm trying to figure where the coolant leak is. Appears to originate on the driver's side front, right near the thermostat housing. Since the engine tilts back the entire drivers side is wet. The thermostat gasket appears to be OK, but it does have a lot of miles on it.
If it's not the thermostat then can coolant leak from the cross over tube. And is the cross over removable without taking off the intake. There appears to be a bolt coming up from underneath on the passenger side.
Also, does coolant flow through this plastic intake. If it does, then the leak could be some where else, if not, then it's probably the thermostat.
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I am in the process of replacing my water pump. After I removed the pump, I found quite a bit of metal-on-metal wear between the impeller and the water pump housing. Is this common?
I've been running a coolant filter on my system for years now, so hopefully its been effective at collecting some of the metal that has clearly been worn away. Either that, or this is a sign that the filter isn't working at all!
I'm a little worried that the new pump will scrape the scars left from the old pump.
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I bought a 2003 F350 with the 6.0L. It had injection, EGR, and oil cooler issues. I tore into it, did the injectors, EGR delete, new oil cooler, turbo seal kit, and several other non related things. Put everything back together and when I started it, it was leaking oil at the paste of 1/2 qt and minute. I did all sorts of searching on this site and went back to work on it.
I re-installed all new gaskets and O-rings, replaced the ICP and IPR sensors. Started it back up, exact same thing. From what I can see, oil is accumulating on top of the oil cooler housing around the area the turbo oil supply connects. But, its not leaking from turbo supply, or from where the filter housing attaches. Im at a loss. Its definitely somewhere on top of the engine and running down the back, only when the engine runs.
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