Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Rough Start At Cold?
Nov 22, 2015
I just started having a cold start problem with my '02 Excursion this fall and I'm at my wit's end trying to fix it. Truck starts fine above about 45 degrees and when it's warm. If I plug in the block heater it also starts fine in the cold. If it's not too cold I can eventually get it started by continuing to crank it. It blows white smoke while cranking and for a few seconds after it finally turns over. Smells like fuel. Runs rough for 30 sec after starting when it finally turns over. Definitely seems like glow plugs aren't working. This truck started no problem on GPs alone without plugging in down to -20 deg F before this year.
I started by cleaning all battery connections, including the two ground posts on the engine block, I replaced one bad battery (diagnosed by Autozone; other one was OK), I checked the resistance of the glow plugs (only a few years old with about 30k miles on them) through the connectors on the GP control module (all were about 1 ohm), and confirmed 12V at the power pins in the GP control module connectors. I then replaced the GP control module and the problem is still present. Battery voltage drops from about 12.6 V before I start the GP cycle to about 12V when I turn the key to "ON" and the GP light comes on. How much should the voltage drop when the GPs are on? What the heck else could be wrong??
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I am intrigued by this engine and it's cold start issues so I am trying things out to see what works. If I plug it in it starts like summertime. If it's as cold as 30* out I run the glow plugs for two minutes and it starts without much effort and once running purrs like a kitten, no chug a lug, no romping, little smoke. When it gets down into the 20's I run the glow plugs for two two minute cycles, a little more cranking time but starts same as above. Down to 18* and I cycle the glow plugs twice for two minutes and it cranks, tries to start but won't. Key off, back on for two more minutes and it starts right up like a warm summer day. It hasn't been colder than 18* here this year so this is the end of my report for now. I haven't taken the time to check the glow plugs which is on my list but this summer it'll get done.
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I have a 01 7.3 crew cab dually and it's had cold start problems since i got it in 09.I have replaced everything i could think of including glow plugs gpr,harness and batteries. Any temp below 40 i have to plug it in . If i cycle it 3 or 4 times it will start but it smokes and runs ruff. My 00 7.3 excursion starts up down to about 10 degrees than i have to plug it in so i know dually is not right.
I have a afe intake,1.5 injectors, driven diesel rr, adrenilin pump,dp tune by gear head. Kinda at wits end don't mind plugging it in in dead of winter but now one night it's 30 next it's50 and i don't have to . Also have fully built trans by level 10 if it matters .I get battery light coming on every now and again. New alt about every year and a half.
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Replaced o-rings, injector cups, glow plugs and UVCH with all motorcraft parts 2 years ago and the ICP, IPR and resealed the HPOP last year. I use rotella 15W-40 oil. It has been hard to start when it is cold and runs rough with little power until warm for a few seasons now when it is cold outside. There are no fault codes or issues otherwise with the mostly stock truck. A buzz test when the engine is cold only #6 sounds strong and #8 isn't quite as bad as the others but the others are hardly audible.
Cause:
1) Can 6 to 7 injectors really go bad in 165k miles? If it is injectors I believe the Alliant look to be the way to go with type ADs?
2) Since it is like flipping a switch and the number of injectors effected is it possibly the 0.1% of the time it is the IDM when there is a miss and no SES. From my searching and swampdiesel if there is a miss and no SES it is 99.9% it is not the IDM or harness since it actively checks continuity.
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My '03 6.0 is hard to start and runs rough when cold. Not just cold outside temps, but engine not up to temp. Starts and runs like a champ once it's up to temp. It was doing this when I got it, but it's getting worse.
From what I've read the common culprits are:
1 - failed solder joints on FICM power supply board
2 - bad power supply side of the FICM
3 - updated flash needed for FICM
4 - injector stiction
5 - leaky O-rings at high pressure oil rail to injectors
I have read up on how to run the voltage test on the FICM with a multimeter.
Seems like I would have to go to a dealer to have the software version for the FICM checked.
I am 100% competent to do the tests and/or repairs myself, but since I recently moved in with my fiance in a condo and my tools are in storage, I will have to do it at a friend's house. That being the case, I want to know what all of the common things are that I may need to check for so I am prepared. So, I wanted to see if there were any other common causes of this issue.
I plan to test the FICM voltage and give FICMRepair.com some business if that's the problem. And if that's not the problem (or maybe even if it is) I will get the injector seal kits and replace all of the injector seals as well as disassembling and cleaning the spool valves in the solenoids. I will also change oil and fuel filters with Motorcraft parts and Rotella synthetic oil while I'm in there.
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My truck runs very rough and lacks power when cold, even during the Texas summer. Once it warms-up, everything is fine. It's almost like turning on a light switch. If it's plugged in for a couple/few hours, it's smooth as soon as it starts. I'm assuming it likes the oil once it reaches a specific temperature. What my problem is?
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My truck runs very rough and lacks power when cold, even during the Texas summer. Once it warms-up, everything is fine. It's almost like turning on a light switch. If it's plugged in for a couple/few hours, it's smooth as soon as it starts. I'm assuming it likes the oil once it reaches a specific temperature. What my problem is?
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For a long time I have been noticing extended cold cranks as compared to my dad's truck which has 50k less miles. Hasn't been much of a big deal until lately the crank has been getting longer to the point where it is noticeable and bothers me.
When the truck finally fires (10-15 seconds) it will sit and idle no problem, maybe a little rough, but that's about it. It will also run a little rough if you start driving it right away but will smooth out fairly quickly. When it first starts it is usually accompanied by a small puff of white smoke.
As a quick run down it has had the injector o-rings, glow plugs and UVCHs replaced about 36k ago. I can verify it isn't the glow plugs or the harness because it would start reliably down to -25 without being plugged in.
My thought is the injectors are just nearing the end of their useful lives (248k). Does this make sense?
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I had been fighting some problems with injectors for several years. I didn't have time to dig into it. I knew what I needed to do, just needed to find time to do it. I honestly thought it was and injector and thought I would have to go to new sticks because I've had so many problems with the remans.
Well I finally had time last week. I pulled the passenger side valve cover and ohmed the injectors. It would be almost impossible to get the leads in the injector while installed the truck. I kept an old valve cover harness, so I cut a pig tail off of it and plugged it into the injectors so I could test. You can see the meter attached to the pigtail in the pic.
To my surprise all four were all right around 2.7 ohms. You need to set your meter so you are getting a reading w a decimal. If you set it to high it will only show a whole number and it is better to have a more accurate reading.
I then plugged the wiring harness back in and tested it from there. The #7 injector gave over 6 ohms. This told me that my wiring harness was bad. I went OE and replaced it. I had a problem w a Dormant valve cover gasket before so didn't want to go that route. After I replaced the gasket and harness all my readings were under 3 ohms. They were all lower than w the old harness.
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I have my 2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke. 175,000 original miles by me and only me. SCT, MBRP, Howes or Stanandyne almost always. Runs like new. It starts rough if I don't plug it in. Even on 50 degree days. Then it levels off and runs perfectly. If I plug the truck in I can drive off immediately with perfect operation of motor. I just went 1500 miles. Pulling a car hauler with car. NP at all.
New Glow Plugs, GPR "Yes it works", IPR, New Harness, Buzz Test shows it's fine, New #8 injector last year, New O rings HPOP. My buddy who is a PStroke guy said this trucks runs too perfect for it to be injectors. He recommends seals for the injectors. What does this mean. Or what else can it be. Where should I start.
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I have a 2001 7.3 with 259,000 miles. It does not get too cold here, however over the past few winters when the temp is below 50 at night the first minute or two of running out of the neighborhood is tough going unless I let it heat up. It has been getting worse over the past few years and now if its even 55 or 60 I need to let it heat up. Glow plugs? Injectors?
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I have an issue with my 7.3.... the truck will not start if it sits overnight without being plugged in, even in 65 degree weather. It starts and runs with a rough idle for about 10 seconds after its been plugged in for an hour, after the rough idle is gone it runs great .. it will Stat back up as long as the truck is warm (70+).... I've replaced the batteries, glow plugs, starter (it was going bad) and fuel filter. .. also replaced the gpr today. ....
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I have an 02 f250 230,000, first 7.3. I've owned it since Oct and put less than 6,000 miles on it. I have another cold crank no start. New glow plugs and Glow plug relay last weekend. Worked fine that weekend. It sat all week, then crank no start fri night, it was like 70 degrees for the high that day. Plugged it in over night and it started. Did not fire right up cranked it for a couple seconds. I drove it all day, started every time. Valve covers have 5,000 miles on them. Fuel Filter heater fuse not blown. But don't know how to check it for sure. And don't know where to go with it from here. Getting frustrated with crank no starts. No troubles found.
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2003 Ford 7.3 E450 ... Just recently got Auto Enginuity Ford enhanced
The problem....The van will run when plugged in for 2 hours or on either. Once started the van runs good. It will not start on its own even at 60 degrees
I got the following codes
KOER (Key On Engine Running)
P0476 Exhaust pressure control valve range/performance
P0673 Cylinder 3 glow plug circuit
KOER (Key On Engine Running) Cylinder Contribution
P0278 Cylinder 6 injector circuit contribution / balance fault
KOEO (Key On Engine Off)
P0113 Intake Air Temp Circuit High Input
KOEO Buzz Test (Key on Engine Off Buzz test)
successful
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Ok truck would not start when cold outside. So I put a gpr on truck. Truck alt would only put out 11.5 ... After I put it on. So I put 4 new alts on all read the same 11.5 and the battery's would drain over night. Turns out they gave me a starter relay. So I have the proper one now. Now when u turn the key the everything is flashing the dash dome light buzzer. But take one of the small wired off the gpr, it stops but I have no power to the starter. It's been 2 months of hell trying to figure it out.
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So back ground is as such. Truck started fine before I replaced the hpop with t500 and did the driven diesel regulated return. I have double checked everything is plugged in. Now when I try to start it cold it will just crank. Yes I get smoke and oil pressure both places. If I give it a shot of ether it will start right up and run fine all day. What am I missing? Yes I know ether bad.
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My 99 250, 7.3 is having some strange issues as of lately. When I start it in the morning, when the engine has fully cooled down, it starts right up, then it throws the "wait to start light" runs real rough and just shuts off. Run the glow plugs a few times, start it up and it will do the same thing for maximum 30 minutes, then all the sudden I start it and it runs fine. I've replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel bowl, new fuel filter, I just don't know where my problem could be. It doesn't make sense. But once I get it running and it warms up, runs fine all day. Go to bed, wake up, has problems again.
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I have a early 99 f250 super duty 7.3l and it's giving me fits. about a month ago the truck started to do a hot no start. drove truck for about a hour. Shut it off and half hour later no start. Let it sit over night and would start with long crank.
Changed CPS no change. Pulled tuner and set back to stock. No change.
Changed fuel filter, no change.
After reading forums changed IPR and truck started and ran great. About a week ago back to the same problem. Battery's are about 2 months old. Oil change and oil filter a month ago.
Checked the hpop reservoir and its 1/2 from the top.
Checked fuel bowl and it has fuel. no sign of oil in it.
Drained bowl and watch bowl fill back up. seems to fill quickly.
Pulled passside valve cover to check for bad orings while cranking.
Every thing seems fine. have not done driver side yet. used FORSCAN and ran buzzed test on injectors and they all buzzed what seems to be about the same. ran test couple of times to make sure. this morning I ran a live scan while cranking and this is what I got right before it started. ICP 660.6psi, IPR 64.84% and RPMs 227. took 8.86 seconds to start. after work scaned again for hot no start and this what I got. ICP 292.9psi, IPR 55.86%. and RPMS 203. unplug ICP and no change. still will not start. one thing I did notice when plugging ICP back in I looked down in side at the pins and can see what seems to be bubbling around one of the pins. the pig tail has just the slights sign of oil.
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My truck is hard to start when cold and I suspect glow plugs. But it is not showing any codes? If it is a glow plug or glow plug relay at fault , should it throw a code?
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I have. 2001 excursion with a 7.3l deisel. 167100 miles
It runs great but if it sets over night when the motor is cold it will not start.
You have to plug the block heater in for about an hour or more for it to start.
To me it seems like glow plugs are not working? It had new glow plugs out in from the po.
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I bought a 99 f-250 7.3 a month or so ago and am impressed with the level of knowledge and hospitality you all show. This is my first diesel so I am completely new to a lot of the issues that occur with one and many of the diagnostic tests needed to troubleshoot.
When I purchased the truck the guy said it was very cold natured and I would have to plug in the block heater if it got chilly out. I didn't realize just how bad that problem was and have since had to keep it plugged in even on very mild nights to get a quick start. I have been very careful to let it warm up for 15-20 mins before I start driving it.
Also, I have noticed at around 40-55 MPH and light pressure on the gas I get a shudder, it was worse before I added a friction modifier to the oil but it is still there constant in overdrive.
As I was driving two or three days ago in a light rain (the first since I bought the truck) I noticed the SES pop on and stay on. Being new to the diesel world I immediately pulled into Autozone and tried to get a code, but with no luck. The truck has been running a bit rougher since the light came on and I am noticing a marginal power loss.
So my questions are: Where can I get the codes pulled off? I have been looking at buying a scan tool but the AE is out of my price range and the other options seem to have mixed results. Also, do any of the problems seem to be related or could it just be a few different issues that need to be ferreted out? From what I've read it seems possible for the UVCH to be the issue here, is that correct?
Again, I am really new to diesels so I may have been having loss of power even before this and not known it due to my inexperience.
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