Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Right Front Window Would Barely Move When Opening It
Aug 18, 2005
My right front window would barely move when I was opening it. Binding real bad on the way down. So I pulled the door panel, ( a two minute affair ) lubed all the tracks with silicone grease. Now the window goes down very easily.
I had all four doors done in an hour. To remove the door panels, remove the red reflector from the door, remove the screw underneath of it. Gently pry up on the window switch bezel at the front for the front door, and the side for the rear doors if so equipped. There will be another screw underneath. Unplug the switch, remove the screw. Remove the trip piece from above the hinge area. Push up on the panel and it comes off.
I used that real thick silicone grease that you can get a plumbers supply for lubing faucet o-rings. It looks like double thick vaseline. Windows work like a dream now.
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I fear my truck may be stuttering on acceleration.
I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge tonight and the fuel PSI at idle and under acceleration... barely moved. Stayed between 60-62PSI.
I'm thinking this isn't normal... shouldn't the PSI be reduced especially when I accelerate hard ?
I'm thinking the "delivery" fuel line... perhaps there is a bottle neck somewhere which is causing constant PSI at the fuel housing ?
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
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This is a 1999 with 200k on it. It has a really bad hpop so valley is full of oil. Haven't removed the HPOP to inspect the non serviceable plug or the hpop gasket. doing that this week. This truck I just bought and it has aftermarket injectors so dont know the miles in injectors. once the oil leak is resolved I can then give the injectors the once over to make sure theyre okay. Question is how much of a stream of oil should I expect to see as the engine runs?
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My 2001 7.3 is smoking only when barely on the gas. New fuel filter. Don't know if its possible injector going bad or what? Smoke is white not black.
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So I have had this occasional hiccup that has gotten more frequent. I figured since our weather has been extra cold (lows about 15 F, around 22 F in the morning), that the temperature had been contributing to the issue. My truck would hiccup and burp out some white smoke. At first it didn't throw a check engine or any codes. As of recently I would get a check engine light, but torque pro could not get any codes, they would be cleared when I cycled the key. Anyways, I finally got some codes yesterday because it happened again. The codes where P0603 and P0344.
So I ordered 2 new CPS from Riffraff yesterday (hoping that they will be here today so I can install one). Fast forward to this morning and i get the hiccup again except worse. Now my truck would barely reach 20mph and it constantly bucked. I limped my way to work (only 4 miles) and of course I got a check engine light but there were no codes that I could retrieve with Torque Pro again. I had read on another thread that the guy had an issue with a wire in the harness near the 42pin connector for the IDM. He replaced his CPS taped up the wire and it went away.
I'm at work and now I'm paranoid that I wont be able to make it home. Is there anything temporary I can do for the CPS, like maybe disconnect it and spray it with some contact cleaner, until I can replace it? I'm going to trace the wire harness to make sure there aren't any bare wires. I forgot to mention that the local stealership replaced the CPS for free due to recall less than 3000 miles ago...
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2001 Ford Excursion 7.3 will run barely for about 20 sec. shudders, then dies. Bought new, driven 334K miles. Performed the usual fixes common to 7.3 issues over the years. All original injectors except for #7 which I replaced about 5 yrs ago. (I know should have replaced in sets but not in the budget at the time). Anyway had my wife turn the engine over after I had removed valve covers for inspection and observed a lot of smoke coming out of what appears to be at or around number 7 rocker arm valley? All rocker arm/pushrods look to be moving as they should beyond that I'm in over my head. Am I screwed or could it possibly just be a bad injector/injectors?
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The brief information:
1. Stuck/non moving in traffic on the freeway for roughly 1 1/2. During that time the AC was running, but once I noticed my "battery light" on the dash turn on, I turned everything off.
2. Since then while on my way home from work the voltage meter only showed barely 12 volts at full throttle.
3. I charged my battteries, and started it up today to go into work. While going to work the voltage meter showed 14 at its high point, but shortly there after it dropped back down to 12. At which time the battery light came back on.
New battery or alternator?
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I have a 2000 Excursion diesel 7.3. I drove it for an hour yesterday and it drove great. When I arrived home I left the truck running and put it in park. Checked the mailbox and jumped back in the truck and put it in drive and it would not move. Tried FWD and reverse. Moved a little in reverse.
I turned the truck off then cranked it back up put it in drive and it drove fine..... Took it for a test drive and seems fine.
Did the same thing today. Went to drop my kids off and I put it in park and left the engine running. Put it back into drive and it would not move.
Turned the vehicle off and back on. Put it in drive and it drove off fine.
Fluid is full, red and no burnt smell. Wondering if this is converter or electrical and how long I can drive it like this.
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Just bought an 01 F250 7.3 but it will not move I think it has something to do with the fuses because it won't go in forward or reverse but I can't find an accurate diagram For fuse box I'm missing probably 8 fuses underneath the dash and I think one of them has to control the transmission module. What it could be if someone doesn't think the fuses...
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Ok just needing info, am I about to have any major issues as my truck is making a loud rhythmic squeaking noise when I move at any speed that is lower then what the speedometer will register (5mph or less) should I be concerned about the noise? It only occurred when I'm at very slow parking lot speeds....
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Fine one day, no start the next. Been skimming over the 7.3 no start thread, so w got some ammo for him to check. White smoke while cranking, rpms move while cranking. Nothing to read codes or other sensors YET. Tried the unplug ICP and it "wanted" to fire. So, I have him my spare IPR to try. I'm sure he checked the fuses but will confirm via text...
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I am new to the ford deisel. I have a 2005 F250 6.0 liter power stroke. it has been bullet proofed with EGR delete. Has an after market intake. An Edge TC tuner, and alot of extras. My question is why am I having shaking in the front end when my foot is barely on the gas. If i give it more gas it goes away as soon as the boost kicks up to around 2 or 3. It does this every time I take my foot on and off the pedal. It will only last for a second if i give it alot of gas. But if I barely touch the pedal it will shake the whole time until the boost kicks in.
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The rear power sliding window on my 05 6.0 F250 has started to open and close very slowly. I recently had my windows tinted. I checked track and can not see any obstruction. Having problems with their power sliders? Wondering if coincidence or if there is problem with window motor.
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I have a 2000 F150 4WD 5.4 running Extremely rich to bank one. The O2 sensors for bank 1 are reading lean(0-50 mV) Bank two is completely unaffected. New plugs in Bank one, 3 new coils in bank one, all pvc lines checked with good vacuum. Previous codes : P0171, P0301-3. The Truck will barely move. Would a small leak up stream of the O2 sensors cause this?
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New to these trucks so a quick question on the window switch controls. I put power to the truck for the first time in about 8 years. First thing i wanted to do is see if the power windows worked. Everything went down very nicely but getting them back up was a no go from the driver seat. They all worked well seperatly but not from the pilots seat? Is it a typical issue with these trucks? When rocking the switch I can hear a relay under the dash panel close to where the access panel for the fuses. Mirrors work as well as do the locks. I pryed up the switch panel and un plugged it and reinstalled it with no luck. As it is I cant get the driver side window up or the passanger window up from the driver side?
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I just purchase 09 LS460 41k miles AWD. I was returning from a nice highway ride had driven about an hour doing an average around 80 getting 23.3MPH. As I was arriving home I stop at the store when i was leaving the store I turned right in front of traffic hit the accelerator and the car would barely move I released hit the gas again gunned it no power and the car gradually got up to speed 35MPH, So i went down the street a little came to a stop made a hard right and gunned it and my moped would get up to speed faster than the car would.
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I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy and the driver side power window has stopped working. When I press the button to lower the window, I hear a click-click-click noise for as long as I am holding the button but the window does not move at all. Fortunately, it is in the up position. I don't hear any motor noise either when I hold the button down.
Chances are it is a real easy fix. I'm not sure about this but I think this issue began right around the time I had locked my keys in the car and they stuck something down inside the door to pop the lock (I wasn't home so I didn't see what they did). I just wonder if they didn't pull a wire loose or something when they were fishing around in there.
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Is there a way to repair an individual switch on the drivers master window switches, or do I I have to replace entire 4 switch and window lock set?
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My trailblazer will not move in reverse , and will barely move forward, i checked transmission fluid hot and it's not even on the dipstick but when it was cold. it was?? Do I add more or what?..
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Doing some suspension work this weekend. Wondering where the best place for jacking up my truck (99 f250 SD 4wd). I need to take the U bolts off so I can't put the jack there. I've got a 2 ton, 3 ton, and 25 ton jack. Only one stand. I need the whole rear end jacked up at the same time. Same for the front. I've heard your not supposed to place the jack on the pumpkin. Is it OK to just jack it up by the axle and put the stand as close to the outside as possible?
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