My 1999 F-350 7.3 is leaking from the turbo pedestool o-rings, from what my mechanic tells me. I would like to do this myself as it does not seem overly hard. This is my first diesel truck and am not quit sure how to do it. Looking for instructions or pointers on the process? I am a decent mechanic, but just have no clue on diesel engines and hoping to learn.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 Excursion with a 7.3 and 240,000 miles. I have oil leaking around the transmission and the local diesel shop found the pedestal leaking. I installed a new pedestal from Rotomaster Part # A1382205N. It came with new O-rings and turbo bolts. I ran the truck and it began leaking again. Thinking I had pinched an O-ring I pulled it apart again but found nothing. I cleaned and inspected everything and reinstalled. Its still leaking. I used a straight edge to ensure the sealing surfaces were straight.
View 14 RepliesAre we supposed to put anti sieze on the turbo to pedestal bolts. They were really hard to break loose when I pulled it Cheater bar tight. 18 ft. lbs sound right ?
View 2 RepliesI removed the 4 injectors on the drivers side of my 2006 6.0 to clean them up and replace the o-rings and copper compression washer. When I put it all together (everything torqued per shop manual) I am now getting P0266,P0291, and P1000 codes. I have checked the connection on the #2 injector, it is good, and I didn't have any problems with connectors breaking or going back together on the FICM...
The truck will start after a long crank,but smokes and runs rough. It was running without codes before I messed with it. The reason for tearing into It was it has experiencing a pretty big drop in fuel milage. I had been running revx and fuel additives with mixed results...
I have a 2002 F350 7.3L w/superchips programmer, k+n cold air intake. Does NOT smoke a lot from tailpipe
Not running rough since I changed my oil to rotella 5w-40w synthetic.
Appears to have good amount of blow by coming from the oil fill when engine is warm.
Can Bad Injector O Ring(s) cause blow by and oil consumption?
I replaced the rings on all 8 injectors put in 8 new glow plugs and a relay. My truck is still putting out grey/ white smoke at start up. It goes away after about a minutes. Truck runs a little rough a first then smooths out. I know some smoke after doing a job like this is to be expected but I was thinking I t would go away by now. I've been running through my head what I might of done wrong but I can't think of anything.
Does it just need all new injectors and not just rings ?
2001 f250 7.3
Truck is a completely stock 2002. New injector o-rings, glow plugs, valve cover harness, and injector cups a year ago... all motorcraft parts. New batteries and starter in the last 6 months.
I've checked the GPR both at the relay and harness got power all the way to the valve cover harness on all 8. Injector buzz test sounds okay as well.
Had a stuck IPR issue a few moths ago that caused a CEL and died while running. Took apart and cleaned the IPR and CEL is gone truck runs great once started and has correct IPR pressures in all RPM ranges.
Truck runs great once it is started and is not sluggish until warm like when it was hard to start when cold with leaking injector o-rings.
I have a very small fuel leak in my 2001 F-250. I was going to just let it go until I needed to do other work (since I get 20mpg city and 25mpg highway), but I went to a "new" inspection guy, and he flunked me. So now I have to fix it. And for all I know, my mpg and fifteen other things will break when I try to fix this.
Today I spent 4 hours in the heat putting in two new o-rings on the water separator valve. But the truck still leaks fuel. Climbed up on top of motor while it was running and looked, but I don't see where the fuel is leaking out.
Online research suggests to me that the next most-likely culprit is a steel fuel line that wears through from vibration and chafing. Is that correct?
This truck is so eaten up with rust (came from salt belt) that I bought a LOT of fuel line stuff a year or so ago, so that when things started falling apart from rust, I would have the parts on hand.
Now I'm wondering whether I already have the part I'm likely to need.
So far, I have bought:
1. Dorman Fuel Supply and Return Lines
2. Riff Raff Diesel High Pressure Crossover (HPx)
3. Riff Raff Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover (FRx)
So my question is, am I likely to have something to replace the part that commonly leaks on these trucks due to vibration/wear/chafing ... or will I still need to buy another part?
I'm thinking that one of the two lines in item #1 above is the problem child...
Need to know if you can mount a 04+ turbo on a 03 engine without changing the intake with the cross in the back ? Or does the intake have to be changed. If the intake does need to be changed will the egr need to be change as well ?
View 4 Repliesim in the process of replacing the injector cups and i knew this would happen since the whole process went way to easy up until this part. I am using Clays remover kit and it will not remove the cup. I do it according to the book and it just keeps popping out of the cup when i try to remove
View 14 RepliesThe next thing on my list of things to replace on my truck is the steering box. I have dealt with a lot of play on my steering for quite a while. I recently replaced the the ball joints and that worked but I think the box is just worn out. I have read all the great review on Redhead boxes but I just can't afford it now. What else is out there? Is our oem box a motorcraft or something else?
View 6 RepliesI have an 01 F-250 Powerstroke. It has been shaking terribly at around 1500 rpms and shutters while holding the brake and increasing engine speed. I took it to the dealer and they told me that my #1 injector is bad. I decided to check around a little bit. I found a diesel service dealer that has brand new injectors. (Not rebuilts). Anyway I would like to attempt to install this injector myself.
1. Which injector is #1? (I've done a lot of mechanic work but not a whole lot on engines.)
2. What do you do with the fuel and oil that get into the cylinder? Do you have to get it sucked out?
3. Anything else that is crucial? What do you have to torque the injector bolt to?
I need to replace the needle bearing in one of my hubs. I was wondering if the bearing needs pressed in or can it be hammered in with a large socket and a hammer?
View 2 RepliesI am doing some maintenance and trying to replace my EBP tube and sensor. I luckily have the dual alternator package, so getting the tube in and out has been a pain to say the least. I can't for the life of me get the tube back into place. As always, a 20 minute job is taking me 2 days.
View 14 RepliesI just bought a 99 F350 with 240k miles on it and got it for a deal because it needed injectors. Ive done the same job to my 97 OBS powerstroke. The injectors were already pulled so I had them sent for rebuild, the problem is I cant tell which injector goes where. is there a trick to figuring out where each injector goes when I put it back together?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 F-250 SuperDuty with a 7.3L. I need to replace the field coil on my AC compressor due to a broken connector (long story). After I remove the belt and compressor clutch, what is the next step to get the pulley off so that I can then replace the field coil? I am a computer geek by trade so I need clear steps. I looked on youtube, but all I found was how to adjust or replace the compressor clutch or the entire compressor.
View 3 RepliesI tried to replace the rear spring bushing of the drivers side front leaf spring.
Got the nutz off the shackle... The lower bolt was bumping into the front drive shaft and would not come out all the way.
Biggest problem I was having seemed to be I could not get the axle to drop far enough to release the pressure on the bolts in the shackle.
NOTE: I was trying to do this without unbolting the U-Bolts from the axle.
I was under the impression you could do this without unbolting the u-bolts. I have all new hyperflex suspension bushings and would like to get them on.
Alternator locked up in a parking lot. Replaced it and had to replace pigtail due to a loose wire in the harness. Now battery light comes on intermittently. New alternator is doing fine producing anywhere from 13.9v to. 14.4v. No output voltage correlation to battery light at all. The belt is still in great shape so I don't suspect slipping. Fortunately I caught the old one locking up almost immediately and had recently replaced the belt. Output voltage looks great. Are there any fuses for alternator?
Only thing I can think of that I did...when splicing in the pigtail that connects to the alternator, I briefly grounded whatever wire in the pigtail is hot. Was just a split second, but enough to see a spark and maybe enough to blow a fuse? I've seen people reference an "under hood" fuse box, but I don't seem to have one. My truck is a 2002 CC with just over 100k on the clock.
I was getting a growl/grinding noise from my front hubs (driver's side I think) when I do a slight right turn like going around a curve, not turning around a corner. Just started happening the last week after returning from a 4th of July roadtrip. First thought was wheel bearings going out and started reading up on the forum here to see what was needed. Last night, I started getting a continuous growl when I was 5 miles from the house so just pulled up and parked it. I'm assuming (without pulling anything apart), it's the bearing assembly and I can get the Timken version at Autozone locally.
The problem is I generally do my heavy maintenance at our family shop in San Antonio but I live in Austin so will need to do this in my driveway. I have all the basic tools, just need to know how involved it is to do in a driveway instead of a shop. Thoughts?
I am looking for a how to vid or resource on doing the job right. I purchased the complete replacement master cylinder from Napa. 2002 7.3 Powerstroke
View 3 RepliesWhat's the purpose of the pedestal sensor
View 1 Replies