Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Replacing Injectors - Which Injector Goes Where
Dec 2, 2015
I just bought a 99 F350 with 240k miles on it and got it for a deal because it needed injectors. Ive done the same job to my 97 OBS powerstroke. The injectors were already pulled so I had them sent for rebuild, the problem is I cant tell which injector goes where. is there a trick to figuring out where each injector goes when I put it back together?
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im in the process of replacing the injector cups and i knew this would happen since the whole process went way to easy up until this part. I am using Clays remover kit and it will not remove the cup. I do it according to the book and it just keeps popping out of the cup when i try to remove
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I have an 01 F-250 Powerstroke. It has been shaking terribly at around 1500 rpms and shutters while holding the brake and increasing engine speed. I took it to the dealer and they told me that my #1 injector is bad. I decided to check around a little bit. I found a diesel service dealer that has brand new injectors. (Not rebuilts). Anyway I would like to attempt to install this injector myself.
1. Which injector is #1? (I've done a lot of mechanic work but not a whole lot on engines.)
2. What do you do with the fuel and oil that get into the cylinder? Do you have to get it sucked out?
3. Anything else that is crucial? What do you have to torque the injector bolt to?
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So I have a 2002 7.3 Excursion and I think it is low on power. ICP is falling on its face when on a 60 or 80 HP tune. I have some boost leaks at the plenums and will work on that but that shouldn't cause my ICP to tank at full throttle. Following are some numbers I pulled with WOT runs up a 6% grade.
16PSI BOOST
EXHAUST PRESSURE 40
ICP 1900
80%IPRDC
this is with the 60 or 80HP tune on my DP-tuner. If I ease into the throttle I get
2700 ICP with
45%IPRDC
but if I stomp on the throttle it stumbles and ICP tanks.
Running the stock tune I can maintain
2700ICP at
40-45%IPRDC
Is this my HPOP being weak, or worn out injectors, to much of a tune or a combo of all three?
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So we begin w/ another saga for the 7.3l Excursion......
A few months ago it started running like crap, real crap and blowing white smoke like crazy. Well I knew this from a previous episode and I had a bad or multiple bad injectors. I tried to trouble shoot which one it was and maybe just replace the one or two....but no it was worse than that. So Life was really busy it kinda got shoved aside until now.
I pulled all the injectors and had them rebuilt locally ..nice. They ended up being with mech for a couple of weeks because he went out of town...no problem. Well this entire time my rig was untouched and when I got them back #7 was full of water.....great, bad injector cup. #7 was the only one, the rest were dry. So I drained the radiator and the oil and left it overnight to completely drain and installed the new injector cup in #7. Next day I refilled via both heads because the valve covers were off, 4 gallons of oil and a new oil filter. Cleared the cylinders via the glow plugs and commenced to trying to get her started. Nada......just cranks, killed the batteries, recharged over night and left the box on them and still nada....but the oil was still very milky at this point.
So tonight I pulled all the injectors back out and drained the oil again, still a lot of water. This time I sucked out the HPOP reservoir and got a more milky water/oil out and I'm leaving everything open all night.
In the am I plan to check my overflow water level in the hopes it remains at the same level...if so I will reinstall all 8 injectors and refill the motor w/ 4 gallons of fresh oil and try again.
Oh, while I was attempting get her started I put my buddies Snapon scan tool on it and I got the p1271-p1278 codes w/ the buzz test. (low side to high side open circuit between idm and injector) So I found the pin test with everything connected at the idm pigtail and everything tested good. So I'm back to my not so fresh oil anymore is the culprit to it not starting.
Am I missing something here?
Also....another fun filled fact is that I seem to have a fuel leak somewhere at the rear passenger side. Every time my fuel bowl fills up, if I shut the key off it will drain down. Sometimes I can see fuel dripping quite vigorously onto my starter but I can not see where it is coming from. I have while it was dripping ran my hand along the head and the fuel lines and can not find where it is coming from. Any thoughts as to where in the hell this fuel could be leaking from?
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This is a 1999 with 200k on it. It has a really bad hpop so valley is full of oil. Haven't removed the HPOP to inspect the non serviceable plug or the hpop gasket. doing that this week. This truck I just bought and it has aftermarket injectors so dont know the miles in injectors. once the oil leak is resolved I can then give the injectors the once over to make sure theyre okay. Question is how much of a stream of oil should I expect to see as the engine runs?
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So I got all 8 injectors upgraded and excited when I get them back I put them all in in kind of a rush. And in that rush I left the cylinders full of excess oil. So obviously when I tried to start it hydro locked. Angry at myself. I kept trying to crank hoping it would fire and just shoot that oil out. Nope, so I went back to taking all the glow plugs out and firing it all back out. Put it all back together then tried to fire her up. Took a minute but she started and I let it run for a while. Hit the gas a few times and then it died. Couldn't get it started again. It would just crank, I checked the icp and ipr and the icp did not build above 35 psi and the ipr was at 98.04% so I just figured the o rings blew out when it hydro locked.
So I took it all back apart put new o rings on, took my time and put it back together right double checking everything. Got it all back together and went to start it, it would just crank around 160-170 rpms, battery voltage at 10.6 icp built up to 140 but now it won't build past 40. Ipr still goes to 98.04. The engine ran just fine prior to injector change, I put a new upgraded hpop prior to injector change, new ipr, icp, cps. Everything checks out, but it will not build oil pressure while crank I've killed a set of batteries then went all out and spent 350 at napa for some optima red tops. I did notice the cylinder 7 injector is the AE injector. It suppose to be in cylinder 8, idk if that's affect the oil pressure building up?
But as far as I know, I'm not building oil pressure. So idk if the hydro lock could have ruined something to keep it from building oil pressure?
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Are there more parts that i would have to get when putting in new injectors in my 2000 f250?
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What causes oil coming out of the oil spouts on the injectors? I pulled my VC to re torque my injectors down and I noticed 2 of mine are now leaking oil out the spouts(when warming the engine). Note I did not say the base of the injector.
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I paid for brand new injectors and when i took them out today they all had dings and small gouges in the plates,is this normal?they are 180/100 cc
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I removed the 4 injectors on the drivers side of my 2006 6.0 to clean them up and replace the o-rings and copper compression washer. When I put it all together (everything torqued per shop manual) I am now getting P0266,P0291, and P1000 codes. I have checked the connection on the #2 injector, it is good, and I didn't have any problems with connectors breaking or going back together on the FICM...
The truck will start after a long crank,but smokes and runs rough. It was running without codes before I messed with it. The reason for tearing into It was it has experiencing a pretty big drop in fuel milage. I had been running revx and fuel additives with mixed results...
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Have a pretty good running (I think), 2000 7.3 with 151K that has always been pretty noisy. Lots of clatter. I amjust wondering if there's an easy way to tell if I may have injector issues starting to come up.
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I changed my injectors and glow plugs on passenger side. I tried to start the engine and it wont crank (turn over). I tried to turn over by hand by turning alternator bolt counter clockwise, turns a little bit and then get very difficult. Is this hydro lock? I stuck a suction tube down injector holes and made it to the piston not much oil came out, I think the truck was a little low on oil before I started the project. The starter wont turn the engine over. I even turned the engine over by hand many times before I put glow plugs in to evacuate the cylinders. I don't know what to do?
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I just replaced my cups because of bad leak. well replaced all cups and injector from a rolled truck the truck ran when pulled. well installed went to start and have tried for 2 days on and off still not start did buzz test and passed , checked oil reserve and was full. When I first tried to start it acted like it was hydrolocked and then hit it again and been turning fine
YouTube ....
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Someone just told me I need to put additive in coolant so the injectors don't rust. I've never heard of this.
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Now ive got a tick tick tick tick sound from the engine. The tick increases and decreases with rpm and is present at idle. If it were a gasser i would say a lifter, honestly it kinda reminds me of a sewing machine lol.
Whatever it is as long as its not serious and my engine is solid im ok w it, I bought this truck knowing I was going to have to put work into it, I just didn't know work was going to go fall one after the other week by week from the day I got it....the previous owner must really have neglected this thing....
Hard to hear it over the sound of the engine, but its there, and is slowly getting worse
[URL]
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Although not certain, I *thought* I saw coolant run into the front drivers side injector hole when the injector was out and I leaned on the radiator hose. I had knowledge t pull them and changing the orings who were initially concerned then not concerned after looking closer.
Either I made a mistake in what I thought I saw on my first experience with injectors, or there really is a problem that I didn't know enough about to address at the time. So I opened this thread to get more info and stop hijacking 67speeda's thread, found here: [URL] ....
As per recommendations, I will check my coolant bottle for any fuel, oil, residue, etc. I am also going to reach out to my buddies and see if they saw a problem with coolant, too, or they realized it wasn't coolant and I didn't take note of it ...
It was a REALLY LONG day and my ability to concentrate had begun to slip quickly (health issues), so it's possible I missed something there. So IF I saw coolant going into that cylinder with the injector removed, how bad would that be? I thought it came from pretty high up and ran down where the injector sits..
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I recently did the following work:
New Injectors
New T500 Hpop
New IPR
New ICP Sensor
New UVCH/Glowplugs
New starter
Been cranking about 15-30 seconds each time about a dozen times now. I've pulled the icp and the hp crossover and have oil flowing at each.
ICP builds to about 240 psi and at a 98% duty cycle....so I assume there's still some air in the system. I"m not getting any sense that the engine is trying to hit. Do i just keep cranking?
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I just replaced all 8 injectors in my 01 F550 with remans from FFD. I have noticed a constant knock at idle but truck runs great. Blowby has no pressure behind it, truck does not smoke. Does this sound like a problem unrelated to an injector?
It did not make this noise before replacing the injectors
[URL] .....
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So I replaced all the rings on my injectors . After putting them back in turned the engine over 5-7 times by hand with the glow plugs out. Then I turned it over with them out as well with the valve covers off. After than I installed everything back in. Now is my problem. I've turned it over 5 times and no luck. Not even on turn over. The oil light keeps coming on?? The indicator doesn't move up at all. It will go up and come down ? Is something wrong with the hpop? Should I keep cranking? Gotta to charge the batteries now..
2001 f250 7.3
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So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
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