I am doing some maintenance and trying to replace my EBP tube and sensor. I luckily have the dual alternator package, so getting the tube in and out has been a pain to say the least. I can't for the life of me get the tube back into place. As always, a 20 minute job is taking me 2 days.
View 14 RepliesI have a '99 F250 SD 7.3 & im going on a trip next weekend so I thought I'd pull the exhaust pressure sensor & clean the tube in an attempt to get better mileage. Found the sensor & unplugged it. Went to the manifold & started removing the tube when it fell off. 6" from the manifold it's broke & the rest is completely missing.
Autozone doesn't carry this tube so, how important is this sensor?
The dipstick tube flange is now leaking ....
View 3 RepliesI've had a shifter-related short on my instrument panel and stereo lights for close to two years now, and it finally got so bad I had to dig in and decided to proactively replace the shift tube while I was digging in. After all, the existing one had 290K miles on it. Although the lighting issue drove me to replace the shifter tube in hopes of finding a damaged wire, but this issue has now been moved to a separate thread [URL] ...... The remainder of this thread deals with my difficulty with the new hardware.
So, I compiled all the info I could find on replacing the shifter tube and did the replacement on Saturday (Dorman shifter tube kit from O-Reilly's). The Dorman kit was fine, mechanically, and the parts fit together well. I did, however, have to smooth out some burrs and sharp machining edges where the new nylon bushings go just to prevent premature wear on them from the sub par machining cleanup a the Dorman manufacturer. I also inspected all of the wiring harnesses and connectors carefully, but could not find any evidence of a shorted wire anywhere.
Results... Shifter Movement: Overall, the shift movements are much more secure and smooth as butter, even though the shift arm itself still has slop in it where it gets pinned into the tube housing.
Now that it's all together, though, I can no longer shift down into 1st gear, and getting it into Park to release the key is tedious. I uninstalled and reinstalled the rear shifter bracket three times (the one which is typically related to not being able to get into Park and 1st). I carefully made sure that it was tight and completely flat against the rear of the shift tube each time. I just cannot tell why getting into Park is tougher than it used to be, nor can I find a physical barrier preventing it from getting it into the 1st gear position.
So here are my questions:
1. The steering column mounting flanges have some adjustment slop around the two rear mounting bolts, and the front two bolts also have minimal "adjustment" capability. Is ti possible that my entire shift positioning problem is due to not having the steering column physically mounted in the right alignment and that is restricting motion on the gear shift flex shaft?
2. If the answer to #1 above is "no", then what else do I need to be looking for to resolve this limited shifter movement?
3. There is a solenoid switch at the rear of the shift tube... is it possible that this is going out? I honestly do not suspect it because I have no trouble starting the truck when in Park, but I have not yet verified the effect of being in "R" on whether or not my backup lights come on.
Lost my turbo at idle early this week un plugged the ebp sensor which gave me a 10.7 default reading but got the turbo back at idle. Ok easy fix. Ordered a new ebp tube and sensor. Wired up the new pigtail and installed the new sensor and tube. Truck ran great all day. Now I goto leave tonight and I have the same problem.
So I unplug the ebp sensor and I have a default reading of only 6.5 now? I checked all my splice pigtail connections and everything looks fine still. What it could be this time?
I had a leak at the flange several months ago. I fixed it with the diesel o rings kit. I made a trip from TX to AL with no leaking and drive it daily without leaks. But, 2 weeks ago noticed a small dribble of a leak from the same spot again - not enough to leave a mark on the pavement but any leaking drives me nuts. I applied some RTV. It worked for the 2 weeks.
Today, noticing another dribble of a leak coming through the RTV down the pan. I'm thinking the flange is bent and not keeping that o-ring sealed against the pan. I'm going to try to apply some additional RTV at the leak spot. If this doesn't work? Is that Strictly Diesel adapter really worth that kind of dough? Is pushing the OEM adapter into the pan really acceptable? Any other options?
I have a 2001 7.3 and have found the engine oil dipstick coming out of the dipstick tube by 6 - 8 inches on three different occasions. Did not think much of it until my other 2000 7.3 did the same thing.
What causes this as afraid it will come all the way out and get into the serpentine belt.
So after a hot drive yesterday we thought to do some googling about our clutch cycling on and off so fast. Yep, the airgap was out of spec. Fixed that.
Then we added some refrigerant to the truck. The truck is "new to us" and this is our first summer with it so not sure what might've gone on previously with the AC. Didn't take long to find a rather sizable leak. :P
See that metal tube going into the "spongy" area? Yeah, that's where it seems to be coming out. That tube is the only one that's cold, the rest are ambient temp. We fix a lot on our jeeps, but the AC system is naturally a bit out of our wheel house since it's not something you normally tangle with. Is this an easy fix? Or do we need to take it in to get serviced?
im in the process of replacing the injector cups and i knew this would happen since the whole process went way to easy up until this part. I am using Clays remover kit and it will not remove the cup. I do it according to the book and it just keeps popping out of the cup when i try to remove
View 14 RepliesThe next thing on my list of things to replace on my truck is the steering box. I have dealt with a lot of play on my steering for quite a while. I recently replaced the the ball joints and that worked but I think the box is just worn out. I have read all the great review on Redhead boxes but I just can't afford it now. What else is out there? Is our oem box a motorcraft or something else?
View 6 RepliesI have an 01 F-250 Powerstroke. It has been shaking terribly at around 1500 rpms and shutters while holding the brake and increasing engine speed. I took it to the dealer and they told me that my #1 injector is bad. I decided to check around a little bit. I found a diesel service dealer that has brand new injectors. (Not rebuilts). Anyway I would like to attempt to install this injector myself.
1. Which injector is #1? (I've done a lot of mechanic work but not a whole lot on engines.)
2. What do you do with the fuel and oil that get into the cylinder? Do you have to get it sucked out?
3. Anything else that is crucial? What do you have to torque the injector bolt to?
My 1999 F-350 7.3 is leaking from the turbo pedestool o-rings, from what my mechanic tells me. I would like to do this myself as it does not seem overly hard. This is my first diesel truck and am not quit sure how to do it. Looking for instructions or pointers on the process? I am a decent mechanic, but just have no clue on diesel engines and hoping to learn.
View 7 RepliesI need to replace the needle bearing in one of my hubs. I was wondering if the bearing needs pressed in or can it be hammered in with a large socket and a hammer?
View 2 RepliesI just bought a 99 F350 with 240k miles on it and got it for a deal because it needed injectors. Ive done the same job to my 97 OBS powerstroke. The injectors were already pulled so I had them sent for rebuild, the problem is I cant tell which injector goes where. is there a trick to figuring out where each injector goes when I put it back together?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 F-250 SuperDuty with a 7.3L. I need to replace the field coil on my AC compressor due to a broken connector (long story). After I remove the belt and compressor clutch, what is the next step to get the pulley off so that I can then replace the field coil? I am a computer geek by trade so I need clear steps. I looked on youtube, but all I found was how to adjust or replace the compressor clutch or the entire compressor.
View 3 RepliesI tried to replace the rear spring bushing of the drivers side front leaf spring.
Got the nutz off the shackle... The lower bolt was bumping into the front drive shaft and would not come out all the way.
Biggest problem I was having seemed to be I could not get the axle to drop far enough to release the pressure on the bolts in the shackle.
NOTE: I was trying to do this without unbolting the U-Bolts from the axle.
I was under the impression you could do this without unbolting the u-bolts. I have all new hyperflex suspension bushings and would like to get them on.
Alternator locked up in a parking lot. Replaced it and had to replace pigtail due to a loose wire in the harness. Now battery light comes on intermittently. New alternator is doing fine producing anywhere from 13.9v to. 14.4v. No output voltage correlation to battery light at all. The belt is still in great shape so I don't suspect slipping. Fortunately I caught the old one locking up almost immediately and had recently replaced the belt. Output voltage looks great. Are there any fuses for alternator?
Only thing I can think of that I did...when splicing in the pigtail that connects to the alternator, I briefly grounded whatever wire in the pigtail is hot. Was just a split second, but enough to see a spark and maybe enough to blow a fuse? I've seen people reference an "under hood" fuse box, but I don't seem to have one. My truck is a 2002 CC with just over 100k on the clock.
I was getting a growl/grinding noise from my front hubs (driver's side I think) when I do a slight right turn like going around a curve, not turning around a corner. Just started happening the last week after returning from a 4th of July roadtrip. First thought was wheel bearings going out and started reading up on the forum here to see what was needed. Last night, I started getting a continuous growl when I was 5 miles from the house so just pulled up and parked it. I'm assuming (without pulling anything apart), it's the bearing assembly and I can get the Timken version at Autozone locally.
The problem is I generally do my heavy maintenance at our family shop in San Antonio but I live in Austin so will need to do this in my driveway. I have all the basic tools, just need to know how involved it is to do in a driveway instead of a shop. Thoughts?
I am looking for a how to vid or resource on doing the job right. I purchased the complete replacement master cylinder from Napa. 2002 7.3 Powerstroke
View 3 RepliesTrying to replace a right rear door handle on my 01 7.3. Attached is a photo of the new handle with the unlock rod. Also is attached is photos of the door without handle. I pointed to the part that moves the lack to unlock.
Looking for the clip part number or photo that is missing. I thought a hose clamp would work maybe with a nut on the rod?
I have search youtube and only found front door lock replacement but not the rear..
How do you go about removing the bad rear passenger side door lock actuator ??