Looking for the Ford (or even Dorman) part number for the Water-in-Fuel sensor that bolts to the outside of the fuel bowl?
Guzzle has it pictured here:
The water sensor tip on mine is badly corroded and eaten away.
What's a part number and who sells them that I can get it delivered next day?
Looking to confirm the part number. My ICP is mounted on the RH valve cover and has a yellowish upper where the three pronged connector inserts.
View 10 RepliesDoes that little clip that grounds the PCM case have a part number? I've been troubleshooting an "SES - but no codes that would cause it" issue, and noticed tonight that clip is not there. Even a photo would work, as I assume I could make one if I had to. It's just a piece of copper, right?
View 4 RepliesMy 2000 F350 7.3 has been stalling out with the water in fuel sensor for the last to tanks of fuel. I thought I needed to buy a new Titan fuel tank, I pulled the tank and was surprised to see that my tank was not a metal tank, It's polyethylene, I bought the truck in California with 60,000 miles it has 180,000 miles now. It was sold new in Canada, I expected the tank to be metal with the the liner coming off.
The two fuel filters in the tank are just about plugged solid I'll be removing them and repiping the return line. When I repipe the return line do I put the duck bill on the end or just leave it open? Also I searched the web for hours looking for a stock size polyethylene tank with no luck. On the bottom of the tank I found The ford part #s. I'm going to siphon the fuel out of the tank today. and reinstall....
With an AD2 and no HFCM, need to have a part number for just the top of engine filter? All I can find (Motorcraft, AMSOIL, Racor) are the dual filter kits.
View 4 RepliesWhen I went to do my fuel filters tonight I found that the Fuel Return Tube had broken. I have the Ford part number 3c3z-9t289-AA and was looking to see what is the IH part number. I think I'll pick up that oil filter assembly too.
View 4 RepliesAny resource that I can use to find the part number of the O2 sensor on my wife's 03 v6 Camry.
I have a check engine light, scanned by code scanner to reveal P2195. This OBD code is supposedly sensor 1, bank 1 "stuck lean" which is the upper O2 sensor on the left side of the engine (closest to radiator with transverse mounting).
So it should be easy to change if this is the issue but I'm having a hell of a time finding the right part number. Too many choices.
How hard is the water pump to replace on 1999 f250 7.3 ...
Any thing special i need to know before tackling this job ...
Also is there any step by step instructions ???
Ford catalog does not list the TPS for a 1999 7.3 Super Duty as a separate replaceable part which leads to replacing the whole throttle pedal assembly. I found this to be incorrect. If you have a throttle pedal assembly with separate TPS (separate 3 wire connector) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch 2 wire connector) just the TPS can be replaced.
This is a pic of my 99 with new TPS installed : [URL] .....
Without removing the whole assembly you only need to remove the 2 T25 screws and the connector to replace.
Since this part is listed for more then 20 Ford trucks I figured it would work in my 99 7.3. I bought a brand new TPS from Pete (F250_) that he could not use. He has a 2002 with one 5 wire connector. It works perfectly in my 99. Not sure if it will work in a 2000 or 2001 but if the TPS and IVS each have their own connector it should. Make a visual inspection to be sure.
Part DY-967 or F4SZ-9B989-AA - Potentiometer
I was going to go with a Dorman TPS but like PartsGuyED likes to say "OEM Baby". The OEM TPS through Ed is actually cheaper then the Dorman.
Side-by-side pic of the old and new TPS. Only the center rotating part is different but it fits and works just fine. It also has a better fit so there is less slop and almost immediate response.
NewOldTPS.jpg?t=1269362105
By the way, the original TPS was working fine so I have no idea what the symptoms of a bad TPS are. Since it was available I replaced it to have a spare and to see if this one would work. Both Pete and I thought it would and we were right.
I found 2 Ford OEM part numbers for what seems to be the same identical metal CAC Tube for the drivers side.
6C3Z-6C640-AA
and
6C3Z-6C646-BA
I wanted to place an order today for my '06 but want to make sure it's the right one. What is going on here? (maybe one is for a '03-04) I Don't know...
So the water pump on my early 99 (158k miles) is starting to leak just sitting in the driveway, did a little research last night and read a few write ups. Just wondering if any tips or tricks I could use to make this go easier. Also any list of parts I should replace and/or might need. I read on one write up about replacing it with an Airtex water pump and was wondering about what people thought of those, I would rather fix it right then just go with the cheapest parts. Possibly there are better brand water pumps out there?
View 5 RepliesTonight I changed my fuel filters for the first time. Went well. However, when I was hooking up the WIF sensor connector, it wasn't pushing in very well. I looked and the pins were straight, I kept messing with it. I noticed that the sensor was loose in the housing. It looks like there are about 4 tabs that hold the end of the sensor in the housing. When the end of the sensor came off, one of the two springs and 0-ring popped out. I managed to find them and re-assemble it. Is this a normal occurrence? Do I need to order a new housing? If it falls apart and I get a WIF message, is there any type of de-rate that happens or can I keep driving?
View 1 RepliesI'm doing standpipes and dummy plugs. There is a 4mm plug with an oring and mine was trashed. What is the P/N?
View 13 RepliesMy 99 F350 cranks, but won't start, and the "water in fuel" light on the dash stays on while cranking. I have never paid close attention to it in the past. Is it supposed to be on while cranking?
I drained the water from the yellow lever located on top of the engine, and tried to start it. The light went off for the first few cranks, but again the truck still will not start.
I just came from a 10 hours round trip to NC. I filled the truck up two times from gas stations on the way. Is it possible that the fuel is bad? I drove on the same fuel almost 3/4 of this tank and now at the last 1/4 I am having this issue.
A little update:
I took the top of the fuel bowl off to see what the filter looks like, and it is nasty and completely black. I could not tell if the fuel in the bowl contained any water, but it looks greenish and uniform, no the obvious separation that happens when you mix water and oil.
Could the fuel filter be the problem?
A little history about the truck. It's always hard to start if cold and not plugged in overnight. I know it's the glow plugs relay, so I just keep it plugged in all the time until I get a chance to fix it.
IDM was acting up shutting off half of my engine, but I took it off, cleaned it, plugged it back in and it has been working fine for over 2 months.
I need to remove my EGR valve to clean the unit of carbon. While there I will be removing the intake elbow to check if I have the throttle plate installed on my engine. What the part number is for the gasket / o-ring that seals the elbow to the intake manifold??
View 7 RepliesCan't seem to find a number for just the bearing and snap ring. All I can find are the dang assemblies.
View 11 RepliesProbably needs to get, f I had a part number for the A/C high pressure cutoff switch, and the 4 wire connector (2006 MY)? I guess for the 6.0L it is actually called "Dual Function Pressure Switch, DFPS".
Was dealing with some chaffing and wanted to add to my "parts list spreadsheet".
Base numbers:
A/C high pressure cutoff switch: 19D594
A/C cycling switch: 19E561
Found the clutch connector part number: Aftermarket - DD1085
Probably need to call this thread "I hate electrical problems also!"
I have a 2001 F250 (Platinum Edition). I purchased about a year ago. The water in fuel light came on. I ran an additive to remove water and changed the fuel filter several times. Light still on. How to turn it off? I missing something? Only fuel filter I see sits on top of engine...
View 14 RepliesOkay a little update on my truck not starting, and for those who have not read my earlier post. My water in fuel light has been on in my truck for probably a month of use. I drained the water sep under the truck nonstop and added several bottles of water remover and the light would not go out so I assumed the sensor was just bad. (im new to owning a powerstroke btw) I broke down coming home from work, got it towed home, and still cant get it started. It will crank fine just wont fire up. I tried unplugging the ICP, i replaced the CPS, and ordered a new water sep/ fuel filter for under the truck. And the fuel filter on top was just replaced a month before breaking down. Every single time i drain the separator tons of clear water diluted fuel comes out before it turns greenish.
Not sure if this could be a cause of getting water in my fuel but one time i filled the truck up completely and it was like the water overfilled and probably a quart or two of fuel spewed out onto the ground. Not sure where it came from. Also I have just over a quarter tank so i was thinking maybe the float broke and I just needed to add fuel but today before i went to add fuel i drained the sep and tons of water came out... Im so worried about hydrolocking my engine or ruining my injectors. But I dont know if my issue even is water related if the sensor just went bad...
What is the part number for the high pressure oil rail check valves for a 2003 6.0L? I'm referring to the ones that screw into the oil rail. I would like to avoid the local dealer if possible.
View 6 RepliesHad the ole factory fuel separator/bowl drain start leaking on me about a month back. So i ordered and installed a new one, issue fixed. Well last night the fuel leak started again, I looked everywhere and i cant see anywhere else it may be leaking at. I felt the underside of said piece and it didn't feel wet, but the valley is full of fuel.
I got in there and tightened the 4 bolts down some more, they were tight but i got a some turns on em and am hoping i either didn't tighten it down enough or they maybe backed out some. Now just gotta see if that solves the problem, again.... the replacement is a doorman, the o-rings were bigger/thicker than the factory orings on the old part, of which the o-rings were shot.
Like I said once i replaced the part the leak stopped for 3 weeks until last night. If the tightening of the bolts doesn't solve it where should I look next? I have an FRX mod but i checked all that and its dry as a bone around all the fittings by the bowl and the heads. No indications of leaks anywhere around any of the FRX assembly.