Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Replaced HPOP Now No Start
Sep 12, 2015
This started out as a turbo pedestal O-ring change (leak down the back of the engine). Since I was going to take everything out to do that I figured I'd reseal the fuel bowl and hpop. Wound up replacing the up-pipes as well. Went ahead and changed the ICP and CPS. The truck started rather easy as I've heard its hard to get the air out. I drove it about ten minutes and then noticed it was leaking oil so I went back to check it. I found that it was leaking from one of the output fittings on the hpop as I guess when I tightened it back up after putting on new orings I damaged the pump by over tightening.
The oring and fitting were fine it was on the pump threads I guess. Anyway trucks got 280k miles so I just bought a new hpop from the stealership. Went home and installed it and the truck won't start. Pulled ICP out and cranked no oil coming out. The only other thing would be ipr (I cleaned with brake cleaner and air tip before putting in the new pump) so just to know for sure I bought a new IPR from the stealership and still NO Start. I didn't fool with anything else don't know what it could be. I checked the bolt in the front cover (tight), got to be a BAD (new) pump right.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
Just replaced all hpop orings. Injectors loud after start up at idle. Guessing air in lines. How long do I need to drive before all air out of lines and everything back to normal?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2003 F250 4X4 crew cab 7.3. It was running great at 244,000 miles. The only problem was the HPOP was leaking, I had done the two upper O rings several thousand miles ago. Any ways after changing the HPOP while driving down the road it would miss at times or hiccup (funny it wasn't doing this before) Also it died a couple times, once at a stop light, had to get it towed home another time in stop and go traffic, this time it started with-in 10 min after trying several times. So I decided to change the IPR, still did the same thing. So I decided to change the CMP with negative results. I checked the ICP sensor it looked good no oil leaking or no saturation. So would it be safe to say I may have gotten a bad HPOP. Remember, I had no problems until I replaced the HPOP
View 14 Replies
Pulled the HPOP reseal an oring that was leaking oil. Feel confident that I made sure the check ball stayed in place. Torqued the bolt to 96 ft lbs. Have fuel in the bowl.
We have cycled the starter about 20 times for 15 to 20 seconds. Batteries are charged.
Here is what the AE scan tool is saying after a few seconds of cranking:
ICP -160
IPR - 0.43
Duty - 63.67
Do I need to get a different reading/test.
I have read about stuck open IPR valve giving the low pressure problem, but the truck was running prior to pulling the HPOP.
Lets say I left out the check ball. Would the scan tool show 0 pressure? (Trying to rule out the check ball)
How about if I didn't get the spring seated in the high pressure oil fitting and instead it is hung on the threads and is compressed inside the HPOP. Could that be the case?
Not for sure it makes a difference, but the truck did fire off once on Ether for second.
View 7 Replies
Removed and resealed HPOP and fuel bowl. Now she won't start. Ran fine before pump & bowl was serviced. I had leakage that I wanted to clear up. I have made no less than eight 15-20 sec start attempts with out even a cough. Reservoir is full, fuel in bowl and over 140 RPM when cranking.
AE info:
IPC duty cycle - rises to over 60% during cranking
IPC voltage - .18 all the time
IPC psi - 0 all the time
I did verify I placed the ball between the pump face and the "non serviceable" pin. I did leave out the spring and check valve seat from one of the output connectors. That has been corrected.
View 14 Replies
I'm having Hard start when Hot problems, starts fine when cold. It takes a couple of minutes of cranking for ICP numbers to hit 500.
So far I've replaced:
ICP sensor
IPR
Injector O-rings.
Still didn't fix the problem.
I also washed out the engine, and put uv dye in the oil, let it run, to find any external leaks, but I found nothing. I don't thing it's the HPOP, because it's able to sustain high ICP numbers when I hold down the throttle.
My next step was to remove the HPOP and replace all it's o-rings, but I assume since I don't see any leaks, the o-rings aren't the problem. Is there anything else to check, that could be causing low crank ICP numbers when hot?
View 2 Replies
I was driving the truck a couple of weeks ago and it just died. I costed to the side of the road. It cranked but would not start. noticed the WTS light was not on. I bought a new one from dealership and installed it and it started right up. I assumed I fixed it. I let it warm up and drove it around the block and parked it and plugged the battery tender back up. the other day I got in and no WTS light again.
I was going to look at wire bundle over valve cover and 42 pin connector. Is there any other issues, I need to look at? Is it possible I just got a bad sensor? My guess would be something is shorting the sensor out if thats the problem so before I just put a new one in I thought I would ask the pro's. I have not done a lot of work to my truck aside from replacing the water pump, hoses and coolant.
View 8 Replies
I did the extended seal kit and non-serviceable plug on my HPOP and now the CEL is on. It is throwing the below codes. The truck in all reality runs fine and even a little better on a cold start than before resealing, just the CEL is on.
P1280
P1209
P1282
P1212
P1211
I cleaned the IPR when it was out when I put new seals on it but could it go bad by just taking it apart? The ICP and IPR are definitely plugged in. The truck is all stock, no chips.
View 3 Replies
I started "Hard Start at Operating Temperature" you can probably tell that 300k has done a number on my HPOP. I'm wondering what to do... do I buy a new pump from ford? Buy from ebay? Or is there a good pump rebuilder in the Portland metro area? I've heard they are almost impossible to rebuild.
View 6 Replies
I replaced the glow plugs and gpr and the truck won't start. I'm also having to replace the water fuel separator. What is going on? 1999 F250 7.3l ....
View 10 Replies
I replaced my starter with a new one from car quest yesterday, it was starting to turn the engine over slow. I checked the batteries, they were fine, so went for a new starter. After installing, the new starter turned fast and fine, started the truck ok, but I noticed a fast clicking sound from under the dash. Ran it home and tried to start it up this morning, turns over fast, the clicking sound is still coming from under the dash, but the engine won't fire. Just turns over. When it's turning over the check engine (and all the other dash) lights flash.
View 3 Replies
So I have a 2002 7.3 Excursion and I think it is low on power. ICP is falling on its face when on a 60 or 80 HP tune. I have some boost leaks at the plenums and will work on that but that shouldn't cause my ICP to tank at full throttle. Following are some numbers I pulled with WOT runs up a 6% grade.
16PSI BOOST
EXHAUST PRESSURE 40
ICP 1900
80%IPRDC
this is with the 60 or 80HP tune on my DP-tuner. If I ease into the throttle I get
2700 ICP with
45%IPRDC
but if I stomp on the throttle it stumbles and ICP tanks.
Running the stock tune I can maintain
2700ICP at
40-45%IPRDC
Is this my HPOP being weak, or worn out injectors, to much of a tune or a combo of all three?
View 14 Replies
Do I have to remove my fuel filter and bowl to attempt a repair on my HPOP leak?
View 6 Replies
The leak drains into the first valley of the block. This is after a cleaning and about 300 miles driving. I thought it may be the IPR but, it's looking pretty dry:
Some more pics .....
The HPOP line fittings are dry too. Where else do there the HPOP's tend to dribble a leak of oil from?
View 9 Replies
I have a 7.3 and I think it's leaking oil out of the HPOP but I'm really not positive.
View 2 Replies
Well my hpop is cracked and leaking alot I need to get home this sucks I must of tighted it too hard
View 14 Replies
I need to get the HPOP reservoir top cover off so I can drill/tap a gauge probe into it.
I see torque-head bolts, and a few long bolts that go all the way down into the HPOP.
Unfortunately I cannot get two of the torque-head bolts out because they only un-thread several rotations before the heads of the bolts hit the edge of the fuel filter canister/bowl.
Any tips or tricks?
View 12 Replies
I need to get the HPOP reservoir top cover off so I can drill/tap a gauge probe into it. I see torque-head bolts, and a few long bolts that go all the way down into the HPOP.
Unfortunately I cannot get two of the torque-head bolts out because they only un-thread several rotations before the heads of the bolts hit the edge of the fuel filter canister/bowl.
View 14 Replies
about to fix my leaking HPOP and step up to an Adrenaline. Looking at replacing the discharge fittings when I do and have a quick question. Dieselsite instructions say the oring seals it and to only run it down to where the fitting body touches the pump. Diesel orings instructions say the 680 locktite does the sealing and to torque to 25 ft/lbs.
View 12 Replies
What's better good options on a upgraded HPOP? As of now I have a stocker, it's getting low on pressure when even on my 50hp setting.... Was looking at T500 and Adrenaline. Any others could recommend? I'll be doing injectors down the road here too.
View 14 Replies
In my motor build I'm replacing the HPOP fittings in the head. Do these need any sort of thread locker to secure?
View 2 Replies
