Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Removing Air Filter Intake At Turbo
Jul 15, 2015
Dumb question but how do I remove the air filter intake from the turbo Its a little oily there from a fuel or oil leak but I dont see a clamp holding it on the turbo?
Also what is the e clip? Is it the little thing holding the wastegate rod on the exhaust turbine? Can I just pull the rod up off the clip?
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I own a 2003 E450 (transit bus conversion) with a 7.3L w/ California emissions. I recently noticed I have a considerable amount of oil in my air intake going back all the way to my turbo starting where the crankcase breather tube attached to the air tube. The breather seems to have some sort of filter housing that is attached to the top of the valve cover. I removed it and it appears to be fairly heavy as in if it's a filter, perhaps it's full. If I'm getting oil into my air intake from where the breather tube comes off that housing and joins in my air tube back to the turbo, could that filter or housing have gone bad? It appears to be a dealer stock item only for 225. I've saw on the web people posting "reroute kits" for the 6.0L but nothing for the 7.3. Does this part simply need replaced or could I be facing a separate issue as to why I'm getting oil in my air tube?
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What does it mean when you find oil in in the cold air intake, is this normal?
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While doing a visual inspection I noticed that the AIH hot wire (captured nut wire) had broken off and was laying loose. I removed the wire from the relay and made a new 8 gauge wire, I connected it to the relay and was about to add it to the AIH when I got a healthy spark ( it touched the ground wire ) and yes the truck was not running and the key was out at the time.
This sounds to me like the relay has gone south, am I right??? I have a new OEM relay to install but I have a question. In what order are the wires and ceramic fitting go on the AIH post???
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I tried to replace my brake master cylinder today but wasn't able to because of a plug
It's the black plug on the drivers side, the connector is upside down so I can't see how to unplug it I tried for an hour then got too frustrated I had to come inside
My Haynes manual says "unplug" obviously
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I need to get the HPOP reservoir top cover off so I can drill/tap a gauge probe into it.
I see torque-head bolts, and a few long bolts that go all the way down into the HPOP.
Unfortunately I cannot get two of the torque-head bolts out because they only un-thread several rotations before the heads of the bolts hit the edge of the fuel filter canister/bowl.
Any tips or tricks?
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Well I am at a loss now. Rebuilt the turbo with a new wheel and kit from Riffraff. I still have no power, no boost and no codes. The new wheel whistles. I can hear it. It sounds way better than the old one. But still no power. I really don't know what to do now.
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As I was getting ready to leave town with the tractor loaded up, I was accelerating with the turbo spooling up when I heard a bit of a pop and lost power (engine still running and all, just very low power like you get when the turbo fails). I wasn't far from the shop so I came back and started getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, it doesn't smell like diesel, probably more like oil. Definitely smoke, not coolant. I pulled it around back and shut it down to go grab AE and scan it and it shows a P0475, starting it back up has light smoke at idle and it idles fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts smoking pretty badly.
Researching it looks like the most likely cause for this is the EBPV itself but before tearing it down that far. This is the only code it's showing.
Truck has 272k on it, turbo was rebuilt a couple of years ago but we didn't do anything with the pedestal at that time. I guess in retrospect, I probably should have done the EBPV delete and the resistor fix then but I didn't think about it at the time.
On another note, my AE is not showing any of the system test for some reason, the drop down is blank. I have version 7.0.1, so it's an old version but I'm working on an old truck, so... What that might be? I've got the truck pulled into the shop now to let it cool down. I'll probably let it sit overnight and take the turbo and EBPV out tomorrow unless someone has a better suggestion...
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So my understanding is that if your turbo is leaking oil, you either need to rebuild it or get a new turbo cause the one you have is shot.
I have some oil leaking, but it's not a ton. One one of my buddies was telling me that it's possible that the amount that is leaking is normal due to the PCV (Pressure Control Valve) system, or something like that. Here are a few shots of the turbo, as well as the boots that are leading up to the turbo.
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While my turbo is out I decided to delete the EBPV. I removed the butterfly and rod, & pounded in some 3/4 inch freeze plugs. Are there any mods that need to be done to the pedestal, or can I just leave it the EBPV plunger unhooked? It's not leaking, but will it leak if left unhooked? Or do I have to gut it and tig weld the oil gallery's
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Noticed a while back that the plug for what I assume is the air intake temp sensor is looped. I assume because I can't find the sensor anywhere. how critical is the sensor? The new S&B has a hole for it so it's either gonna need a new sensor or a plug. The local autozone has one for 16.99.
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I've been mulling over the idea of doing a muffler job on my 2002 f350 7.3 cc short bed. I do tow on and off for work and dual material for work. I am thinking of upgrading the exhaust because I noticed a couple small leaks in the muffler and I'd like to lower the egt's for the truck so it breath a bit smoother. I'm not a fan of the really high pitched sounds I've heard on some I want it deep and heavy sounding. The turbo is fine for now but eventually I'll need to know what to upgrade to once it starts to wear out. I don't plan on doing dumb chips or tunes because it's not a toy truck but a work and daily driver.
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I'm getting ready to change the glow plugs in my dad's e99, 196k on the clock. When I pulled the air intake tubes I found some oil in the turbo:
The inlet tube also had a bunch of gunk in it too:
Does this look like it is caused by the PCVor is it a bigger issue?
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I have an 02 crew cab SB 7.3L. The best way to I know to describe it is a sorta like a metal ringing noise. It just started this afternoon while pulling a 9k camper. It only does it under load. Boost stays the same and it happens in all ranges from 5psi to 15psi. It is intermittent. It sounds like it it coming from the turbo. I pulled off the boot and could not feel any play on the intake wheel.
After unhooking trailer and taking for a test drive I can not get it to do it again? The turbo was rebuilt about 4 years ago with a wicked wheel but has only seen about 18k miles since the rebuild. A quick look at the boots appear good but didn't get to take them off before going to work. I will try to post video.
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I have done some searching on this, seen a video on YouTube but haven't read anything that is firm on what it is. We pulled our 5er for the first time last weekend and the chatter was pretty pronounced in the Arbuckles here in OK. I was running around 65 mph when I hit the largest hill and as I was climbing my speed naturally dropped, boost was around 17 - 18 psi when the chatter started.
Is it something to be really concerned about? Is there anything to be done to prevent it? I'm pretty much still stock, only deletes have been airbox to 6637, and I deleted the heater by turbo for the boost gauge. Other than that everything on truck is still stock.
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How can I tell if my truck has a cabin filter and where would it be located? I looked through the OM but it was little to no luck....
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I'm checking my fuel filter regular (draining, examining.....basically OCD **** stuff) and I'm spilling diesel around the bowl. I've learned to put a rag around it now, but what's best way of cleaning diesel around that area? I'm tired of my wife complaining about smell. Simple green, purple power, etc???? Also, tell me what to watch out for.
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just bought this truck and it has a brittle cap and i cant get the cap to turn, its been on there awhile . 99 f250, anyway might have to destroy this cap to be able to remove it. Doing this without damaging the filter housing?
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Air Intake Heater Plug Code Eliminator P0541
In conjunction with the AIH Delete Plug??
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Put in my new S&B intake today and when I stomp on the gas I am getting a loud shuddering noise from the intake when I change gears. Also sounds like a squealing sound sometimes. Doesn't sound like other trucks that I have heard. What that could be?
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I have a 01 7.3 F-350, 120000. I rarely get down hard on the go pedal but a while back I did and heard at pressure whistle just before it would shift. I thought a bad turbo hose so I replaced them all. 'While working on the hose mounts I cleaned up the castings for a better seal'. The hose replacement seemed to get the running but the whistle is still there. I am thinking a leak on the manifolds for the Y-Pipe connection OR does the turbo have a release valve that can make a whistle sound?
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