Well I am at a loss now. Rebuilt the turbo with a new wheel and kit from Riffraff. I still have no power, no boost and no codes. The new wheel whistles. I can hear it. It sounds way better than the old one. But still no power. I really don't know what to do now.
View 14 RepliesI have done some searching on this, seen a video on YouTube but haven't read anything that is firm on what it is. We pulled our 5er for the first time last weekend and the chatter was pretty pronounced in the Arbuckles here in OK. I was running around 65 mph when I hit the largest hill and as I was climbing my speed naturally dropped, boost was around 17 - 18 psi when the chatter started.
Is it something to be really concerned about? Is there anything to be done to prevent it? I'm pretty much still stock, only deletes have been airbox to 6637, and I deleted the heater by turbo for the boost gauge. Other than that everything on truck is still stock.
I've got a 2002 Excursion which has been giving me a little trouble lately. I've got a DP tuner, 4" exhaust, afe stage 2, and gauges (boost, trans temp, EGT). I've been running these for about a year now without any truck problems until recently
So I noticed over the past couple weeks it has gradually been taking longer for the engine to start. Started off by just having to turn the engine over a few more times. Now it has turned into having to turning over the engine for a few seconds, then turning it to off, then trying again. It always starts on the second attempt to start my truck and sometimes really hard where it blows out a little black smoke.
Not sure if this is a correlation to the problem above or not, but I've also been losing boost pressure, and I'm not sure when this started since I haven't been on the highway for a while. I noticed this because this weekend I drove on the highway and saw that I was blowing some black smoke every time I accelerated which has never been the case.
So I check my boost gauge and see that I'm sitting at like 3-5psi when I used to be at around 10psi+. I also noticed when I accelerated the boost pressure would increase like normal but then quickly drop once I stopped accelerating which is unlike anything I've seen before in my truck. I don't seem to notice a huge difference power or throttle response, but then again 95% of the time I'm driving under 40 mph to get to work. So this problem could have started the same time as the starting problem, but I can't say definitively.
What this problem could be, what to check or test?
ive noticed my boost has been going down lately. At first I thought it was a boost leak so I replaced all the intercooler boots and both sides of the intercooler pipes. That diddnt change anything at all. I recently got new injectors (200/30%) and a hydra tune for them and it was quick the first few days i was running with that setup, my boost has been dropping and currently at WOT I can't even get to 10lbs of boost and it is noticeable driving, it's slower than it was stock. There was no play in the shaft of my turbo and the turbo in there is only 2 years old. Could the turbo be bad already? Or is there anything else I can check before buying a new one. I have an upgraded hpop and the 6637 intake.
View 13 RepliesI have an '03 powerstroke 6.0, 4 inch turbo back exhaust. truck had lost boost and would cut in and out if i got on pedal and now a little bit of oil is collecting at tip, could this be because of bad turbo seals? And could the turbo still be alright? Another thing, I'm losing coolant, and I have noticed when I took the EGR out and cleaned it, the valve itself was the powdery black carbon, the cooler was wet, and I know it's not supposed to be like that. I am not thinking head gaskets yet, cause if it had a blown head gasket, I wouldn't be able to drive it. It is currently sitting, and I'm just trying to fix it. Would I be able to fix the turbo seals myself?
View 4 RepliesHaving this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
View 4 RepliesPaid a shop 9000 to rebuild engine. Went to pick it had a major oil leak from back of the motor. They pulled the Trans and resealed the back plate. I test drove the truck and had some boost leaks and the AC needed charged. They pulled the truck in this morning and fixed those items. Now the truck will not move in any gear.
View 7 RepliesI test drove my truck yesterday for the first time with the newly rebuilt transmission. I was gentle with the right foot and all seemed well. Once out on the main road it shifted by itself into overdrive for the first time and immediately the O/D light started flashing. I drove it home and shut her off. I test drove it 2 more times leaving overdrive off, no issues. With a snap-on scanner hooked up I let it go into overdrive and O/D light started flashing again, not immediately maybe 5 seconds after shifting into O/D.
Codes are:
p1316 IDM codes detected
P0717 Turbine speed sensor circuit fault
P0715 Turbine speed sensor circuit fault
P0500 VSS fault
10 minutes ago was my last test, O/D flashes only after it has shifted into overdrive. I checked the transmission wire harness and all connections are tight, trans oil level is good & trans temp never went above 150. Could this be a faulty VSS?
I recently (1month ago) rebuilt my entire front end. The only things that were not replaced are track bar, steering box, front driveshaft, and sway bar bushings. I'm having the same issues that I had before the rebuild. It just feels like the front is is on basketballs. Hopping and vibrating at any speed or rpm. On a smooth road or on the highway it feels like I'm hitting bumps that aren't there.
View 14 RepliesShort version is that I just did the EBPV delete with new pedestal and turbo exhaust outlet and put a new turbo middle cartridge in as mine had blown a seal and possibly broken the shaft. Once I got it all put together, I took it for a test drive and it was building 20PSI like it used to but I didn't have the accumulator and turbo mated up fully so I had a leak there.
I corrected that and now don't get any boost until I get to about 2500RPM and then it only builds to about 10PSI. I've double and triple checked all my connections, boots, etc. and everything is tight on the intake, intercooler, up-pipes and collector, exhaust and the spider, I can't see or feel any problems there. I tried disconnecting the MAP sensor and it might be a little better but not even close to normal.
Tried disconnecting the red line from the wastegate and plugging it with no difference. I'm stuck, and frustrated. I do have AE, watching the MGP looks like the MAP sensor is working. I feel like I'm overlooking something simple but I just can't figure out what it is...
As I was getting ready to leave town with the tractor loaded up, I was accelerating with the turbo spooling up when I heard a bit of a pop and lost power (engine still running and all, just very low power like you get when the turbo fails). I wasn't far from the shop so I came back and started getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, it doesn't smell like diesel, probably more like oil. Definitely smoke, not coolant. I pulled it around back and shut it down to go grab AE and scan it and it shows a P0475, starting it back up has light smoke at idle and it idles fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts smoking pretty badly.
Researching it looks like the most likely cause for this is the EBPV itself but before tearing it down that far. This is the only code it's showing.
Truck has 272k on it, turbo was rebuilt a couple of years ago but we didn't do anything with the pedestal at that time. I guess in retrospect, I probably should have done the EBPV delete and the resistor fix then but I didn't think about it at the time.
On another note, my AE is not showing any of the system test for some reason, the drop down is blank. I have version 7.0.1, so it's an old version but I'm working on an old truck, so... What that might be? I've got the truck pulled into the shop now to let it cool down. I'll probably let it sit overnight and take the turbo and EBPV out tomorrow unless someone has a better suggestion...
I have a 2004 Excursion with the 6.0. Lately it seems like the motor just doesn't have the boost it should. Funny thing is that the boost reading through the edge cts seems to be right. Under full acceleration it will pull 27 psi boost and 3900+ ICP pressure. No codes are being thrown. It just doesn't "feel" right (seat of the pants) and it also sounds louder but I don't known this for sure.
Where does the CTS get its boost reading from? The truck has new boots on the hot side from riffraff. Anything I can check?
Just wondering, what the max boost rating on a stock turbo, stock engine in a 2011 is. I know the gauge goes up to 40 PSI, but I don't think I've ever seen my go past 20.
View 14 RepliesCheck engine light is on says low turbo boost but gauge says it has a lot of boost. Only happened after I put catalytic back on for smog test. Before that no problem.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2013 F350. Since it was new in August the turbo has made a chattering sound that sounds to me like the waste gate (if it had one) is opening and closing rapidly. Almost like its building boost and dumping it over and over again. Usually happens when it is in 6th gear around 1700 rpm under light load. It also does it from time to time while plowing snow. You can power through it or let off and it will go away. My local dealer where it was bought new put a new turbo on it and the problem still persists. The truck just turned over 8k miles and has been in several times in attempt to resolve the issue. They say that there are no codes on the truck nor does Ford have anything on their service web. My dealer claims that no one has ever had the issue.
View 14 RepliesI've been having issue with my truck lacking boost over the past month or so. The psi levels are normal in the morning when I start it up cold, the problem almost always occurs at start-up when the truck is somewhat warm and has been sitting for an hour or more after use. I've had boost levels at idle from -0.14psi to -0.56psi and as low as -1.2psi when driving as the problem is occurring, but it eventually kicks on and goes to normal levels after several minutes of driving. After originally taking the truck to a local diesel mechanic I was told it had EGR codes and they recommended installing an SCT tuner and cleaning the EGR valve to solve the problem. I had them install an SCT 5015 tuner and clean the valve but I've still been having the problems with boost.
View 2 RepliesI'm relatively new to the 6.7 engine , I have a 2014 F-350 SRW with aprox 51,000 miles on it. Normal driving I see about 8 to 10 psi of boost even under moderate acceleration although at times it will go to about 18 psi at WOT and it does this with heavy loads. At moderate acceleration the boost will jump to 10 psi quickly but immediately stop there and sometimes as the RPM"s increase boost pressure decreases. Only issues I have had with the truck was a clogged EGR cooler.
View 2 RepliesThis is a common problem. Mine goes to dealer in the morning for it. I haven't seen any recent posts within the last year on this. Did ford ever find a fix for my problem? When going up hill at low rpms I lose boost and hear the stutter out the intake..
View 14 RepliesThe ford dealer in Las Vegas replaced my turbo with a remanufactured one. Coming off the line (like quickly pulling into traffic) it goes flat on power until I get a few RPM's. Even with the old turbo it never did that and I drove it for the last 30k miles with it throwing the low turbo boost code. They put a little over 100 miles on it for road testing (I did have other things that they worked on. {4x4 2006 F250, 6.0 engine, 110k miles and I bought it new}....
View 4 RepliesThis was briefly discussed as part of another thread. It appears that I have a boost leak when I hit roughly 24.5 psi. The leak seems to stay for a few minutes after showing itself, but then I'm able to produce boosts up to 24.5 again. For example, on my 20-mile/30-minute drive to work, I can make this leak "appear" four or five times, maybe more if I try. Does this self-healing leak ring a bell? I haven't done a boost leak test yet, but I'm leaning towards the RTV sealant at the OEM plenums due to the self-healing attribute.
To add a little info to this thread, I recently installed an S&B intake, 4" exhaust, bellowed up-pipes, RR billet wheel, RR CAC intercooler boot kit with new clamps, RDP reinforcing plenum inserts, AIH delete plug, and I removed the wastegate solenoid along with the red and green tubes. I don't have any gauges, but I recently began monitoring the boost using FORScan. Before all of this, I don't think I was producing enough boost to cause this leak, and I had no way to monitor for this leak.
So my understanding is that if your turbo is leaking oil, you either need to rebuild it or get a new turbo cause the one you have is shot.
I have some oil leaking, but it's not a ton. One one of my buddies was telling me that it's possible that the amount that is leaking is normal due to the PCV (Pressure Control Valve) system, or something like that. Here are a few shots of the turbo, as well as the boots that are leading up to the turbo.