Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Rear Tire Slips Into The Muddy Rut
Jul 31, 2017
So my brother in law calls me because he is stuck in the mud. I back up to hook up to him. One rear tire slips into the muddy rut. Other tire is on dry hardpack. The tire in the mud spins non-stop. The tire on the hardpack wont move.... I feather the brakes as I have read it will engage the truetrac. Nothing.... Is this thing junk? I was super ticked off. How do I test the truetrac to see if it still works?
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Ok, my clutch has been giving me trouble for a little bit and I'm almost positive that I have a bent release fork. It also slips under heavy acceleration in 6th gear. I am planning on doing a clutch, compete with flywheel and release fork and a new rear main seal. My problem is, here within the last couple of days the trans would pop out of 4th gear if I was just coasting. It has been getting noisy over the last few weeks also. I'm no manual tyranny expert, but this is making me think I'm gonna need to have it rebuilt.
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1. What is the "stock" tire size for a 2000 F350 7.3 Super Duty 4x4 SRW?
2. Is there a way to adjust PCM to accommodate different tire sizes?
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While turning very slow and sharp on the farm, I heard a pop under the hood. I then lost power steering and brakes. I saw power steering fluid spurting in the left tire well behind the tire. Look under hood and saw fluid coming from a fitting on the side of the power steering pump. I have attached a photo....one photo with nothing and then other with a screw driver tip on the fitting.
It appears that the the pressure fitting blew out the side when I turned sharp. It has a nut from which it came (compression of some sort?). I can push the nipple of the fitting back into the nut but I guess the pressure is gone.
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What's too big? I just put 33s on my super duty, is it "too much" for the transmission?
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OK, so a friend's F150 just went up in flames in his driveway and he told me that the problem was the hot link behind a plastic/ rubber barrier at the main brake cylinder. I had a recall notice on my old truck but since I left the US and took the truck I never paid much attention to it, thinking typical overkill. Now I already heard from another buddy who caught lit brake fluid dripping onto the front tire and got the fire out before it spread and looked up the info today. Looks like our trucks are affected. Best to unplug the harness that goes into the brake master cylinder will prevent this problem from occurring? I never use cruise where I am, the roads are too small and slow.
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Was thinking of running a USB to each of the back doors (through the flip out ashtray) in my crewcab. Was looking at using something like this.
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Sometimes doing your own work gets pretty irritating. I just got done with my drive hub and was rotating the tires when I noticed my rear brakes need replacing. Got it all apart, no real issues until the simplest part.
Take a look at this picture. The rotor (brand new) is touching the edge of the caliper and the brake pad is too large on the immobile side. These are Duralast Rear pads from Rockauto. The rotors are for the rear but some other brand, also from rock auto.
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Truck started riding weird, checked and my right rear tire is cupped. So now I get to buy new tires! I guess 60K and change on the original Michelin's is pretty good - whatdy'all think?
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2001 7.3L 307,000 miles.... I have a couple of injectors pretty close to failing the buzz test.
I'm a shade tree mechanic - I've done the oil cooler, changed the radiator and belts etc how easy is the injector change? The bit that bothers me is the oil draining into the rear cylinders and ensuring that I don't hydraulic lock something. Do I need any special tools? Should I just take her to Diesel Innovations in Houston and let them get on with it ....
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The rear differential on my truck has been whining for the 2 years I've owned. The fluid has been changed but of course that didn't really solve anything. I'm trying to decide if I want to rebuild it. Was looking at buying the USA Standard brand rebuild kit, ring and pinion, and axle bearings and seals. How hard would/will this be to do myself?
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I noticed today (smell burning brakes) that my left rear brake is sticking on my 1999 2WD F250. I hear that this is a common problem? Is it usually a defective Caliper or emergency brake Issue? I had my rear brakes done 50k ago with rotors and rebuilt calipers (first set went 130k).... I don't think it was a total clamp down infrared temperature was 275 degrees on sticking brake and 75 degrees on the ones that were not sticking.
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Having trouble figuring out how to remove the rear fuel line from the fuel pump. Doesn't seem to be the type that uses the quick disconnect tool like the front line does.
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Well I had a flat today, but that turned out to be a good thing. I noticed the rear brake pads are worn out. They are not metal to metal, but close. I have been looking at Rockauto, Pepboys and others. The funny thing is they never prompt or list different pads for the SRW vs the dually.
Are they the same including the parking brakes shoes? I was going to go with the OEM material or should I go with a ceramic pad?
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...when changing the fluid and RTV'ing the rear differential cover?
Usual suspects: Brake cleaner, Simple Green, soap and water, gasoline, etc.
I've never serviced one, but figure it is like this:
1. Drain
2. Remove cover
3. Spray, clean, rinse, whatever all the innards
4. Wipe and dry
5. Inspect. For what, I have no idea
6. Black RTV cover back on, replace drain plug, remove fill plug
7. Refill with 75w-140w Mobil 1 Synthetic (not sure what it is, but I looked it up here some time ago and bought enough)
8. Fill to within a finger tip's dip in the fill hole
I've had the RTV and oil for a while, but it's supposed to hit 59F here on Saturday with no rain!!! Time to crawl on the floor and get it done.
I didn't see any problems with my cover, so going to forgo the new aluminum finned cover this time
Guess the biggest question is what should I use to clean/flush the rear end?
This is 2002 Excursion WITH LSD rear differential. 4WD.
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I picked up an '01 F-350 standard cab and bed plow truck for parts and am preparing to swap the rear axle into my E99 F-250 SB unless someone gives me good reason to just swap the carrier. I want the LS differential. I will also do hutch/harpoon on the tank so I figure that bed removal will make both jobs easier. Once I have both beds off I can give things a visual and see what lines and cables need to be changed out as well. I believe that there is a difference in the passenger's side caliper but I am not 100% on that and I don't know what I will need to change if anything. I am hoping that my drive shaft will remain.
Thus far I have gotten to rotted bed off of the donor truck. The bolts would not come out and I had misplaced my cutoff wheel so out came the torch. In the process of blowing the heads off of the bolts I also blew some holes in the bed but didn't care, it's scrap. Fortunately I did not blow any molten steel onto the fuel tank. I was able to lift the bed far enough to reach the light plugs in the rear and disconnect them without damaging them. The large one that is still attached to the frame goes to the trailer lights and could have stayed connected. The two smaller ones with ends up feed the tail lights and license plate lights, they have to be disconnected.
The bed is shot so I just hooked chains into the rear pockets and drug it off with the front end loader. I did have to get off a couple of times and unsnag it from the frame. Oops, and to cut off the fuel tank fill and vent hoses.
The bolts are extremely rusty and wouldn't budge so I cut them off.
The organ recipient has a spray on bed liner that I had to cut through to get to the bed bolts, the heads look like new and the bolts look like they will all come out for me.
And this is what the nuts and clips look like that mount the bed to the frame.
Yep, there is plenty of rust.
Also, I found two safety cables wrapped around the bed frame and main frame mid bed that will need to be disconnected before bed removal. These are on the E99 SB only, not on the '01 standard bed.
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So last year I pulled the motor and put a new pan on. Since then the oil has leaked from the rear lobe at the back of the pan. No oil leaks up top of engine. So I pulled the tranny and am going to put in a rear main. I also see a plate that bolts on the back of the motor and the bottom glues to the pan. I am concerned I did not glue the pan well enough in the lobe as only about 1.5 inches of the lobe has a small amount of grey rtv sticking out. How do I remove the aluminum mount on back of motor that the tranny bolts to? What seals the plate? Oring? Gasket?
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After checking my fuel bowl today for contaminants, I put the lid back on and then noticed a leak from the rear at drain valve. I know, I already ordered the orings. It was doing one drip about every three seconds with the truck running. However, I turned the yellow thing a couple times and the leak stopped. Not leaking right now. Maybe it wasn't shut from previous owner.
Second question.....After stopping leak and after routing my fuel drain hose, I decided to give it a try. No luck. Nothing out or drain. Based on my first fuel filter change, it may be clogged up. So, do I run wire from the bottom up? Or do I run wire from top (bowl) down? Just so you know, sucked the bowl dry with a vacuum device before I reinstalled the filter.
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I recently purchased a 2001 excursion 7.3 after driving it for a while I have noticed a significant clunk and vibrate in the rear end. I have read a lot of people saying it could be the slip yoke needing lube which I intend to do but most are saying that their clunk is at start and stop.
Mine is between 30 and 60mph when I let off the accelerator I get a clunk followed by a vibration and when I get on the accelerator it is just the clunk. Does this sound like the slip yoke to yall or am I looking at something more? I have tried turning the drive saft and there is no play in it at all.
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I'm fresh out of the perverbial womb to this place and only about a toddler when it comes to my truck. However I do want to learn! I just recently invested in an 02 XLT F350 7.3L. I'm in love with the truck except the leaning forward aspect. I am debating on leveling it via lowering the rear. Any thoughts? Things I need consider that will happen if I do? How would you do it? Would you do this over raising the front? I've heard raising the front can mess with the suspension geometry and that's not a good thing to do!
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Well I just noticed the rear axle air vent and it is blocked.. I ordered a new one and will replace it once it arrives.. what can I expect once I replace it?
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