Took the torque converter cover off and this is what I see. Before I took it off the cover looked oily. Prev I replaced the EGR valve and some other sensors and there was oil on top of the engine. Does this look like a rear main seal or oil dripping from the top of the engine?
View 4 RepliesI haven't had time to take my truck to the dealer to actually be checked yet but it appears I might have a rear main seal going out from what I can see. I pressure washed the whole underside of my truck the other day and there is fresh oil where the engine connects to the transmission.
My truck is a 2011 with a 2013 engine in it. The truck has 103,900 miles on it. The engine has almost 60,000 miles on it. I have the extended warranty on it which is good. All this truck has to do is last 2 more lousy months and I'll replace it.
2011 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel 12' Flatbed
If I use ATP AT-205 stop leak to stop a slow leak coming from the rear main seal, will it last a long time? And if it stopped working eventually, would adding more stop the leak again?
Also, I'm going to have the transmission out anyway, so how many hours would it probably take to just replace the seal at that point? And someone told me some seals were two halves that fit together as one, and others are just all one piece. Is that true? It would seem to me that a two piece seal like that would start leaking prematurely.
2011 F-350 CC, 45k miles... Found out yesterday mine is leaking. Way to early for these issues to pop up.
View 1 Replies I am tearing down my junkyard engine to prep it to put into my truck and I came across this on the rear main seal... is this a wear ring?
It kinda looks like a oil slinger. My new seal is on the way so I have nothing to compare it to.
I don't want to be yanking on it if it's supposed to stay.
I have an oil leak under the flywheel cover that gets worse as it runs.It is dripping directly off the middle of pan below where the torque converter attaches and as i said it gets much worse when its running which makes me think rear main seal....
View 14 RepliesI just had trans rebuilt in my 98 4x4 4.0 ranger I thought while they had the trans out go ahead and replace rear seal. Got the truck back leaking bad carried it back they claim to have replaced it twice while they had it and guaranteed it was not leaking they say the leak is from the oil pan so I'm gonna pull the motor this week. Question is: can make an offset rear seal I still believe this is the problem. Which oil pan gasket to use.
View 4 Replies2004 automatic 88,000 miles 2wd
When I bought the truck it had a very small oil leak that would drip out of the bell housing between the housing and the inspection pan. it would leave a quarter (25cents) sized stain on the ground and would only drip for 10 minutes or so after I shut it off. in 3000 miles it would be down 1/2 quart of oil...
Well 3 weeks ago I stopped and noticed a HUGE stain now. I checked the oil and was 1 quart low. I filled it then I drove 90 miles the final week before parking and was down another 1/2 quart...
I am figuring the rear main seal is gone. I did some research and it seems these are common to go in the 3.0? What seal is the best to get? should I get the seal right from the dealer? or I will run into the same problem and go with a after market? I also learned that the crank shafts can get a groove in them and it's good to put a new "speedy seal" where can I get one of those?
Also for some strange reason I take the tranny out and the rear main is good ( I seriously doubt it) is there anything else that could be leaking that I should check when I have the tranny out? Can I remove the tranny with the factory exhaust still in place? it looks like it can squeeze just by it?
Have another oil leak, just finished the pan flange gasket last weekend, made it 150 miles, now a new leak.
Took the spider out and everything on top, cleaned the valley up good, the fired the truck. HPO lines are good, but have a drip off the back and bottom of the HPOP, when I reach under it from the back, its right below the large 2 inch circle.
What this might be? was thinking possible orings somewhere under there where it seats, but its been 6 years since I replaced all the orings, don't remember exact layouts.
Changing out the rear main oil seal on my 1999 F250 Super Duty. I have a 7.3L diesel with 6 spd manual trans. with 98K miles. This past week it has developed a very slow engine oil drip where the engine meets the transfer case. Is it necessary to remove the engine or just the transmission? What does a transmission/transfer case combo weigh? What special tools would I need?
View 1 RepliesI wanted to bring attention to an oil leak I discovered today. It appears to be from the rear main seal. My Passat is a 2015 1.8Tsi with the 09G auto. You can see the leak with the belly pan on. From the front of the car, looking through the vent for the transmission pan look at the lowest point on the bellhousing there is a small machined flat area. Pictured is that area (with the pan off). There is also oil on the back side of the bellhousing on one of the main bolts between the block and trans. The three rear bolts on the pan need to come off to see that one. I would recommend looking at this area on your Passat. Currently my Passat has 3,490 miles on. It's not a terrible leak, but it is worse than what should be present on a modern, new vehicle.
View 16 Replies2003 F250 7.3... I noticed a water leak dripping down onto passenger side front leaf spring. I saw this before but attributed it to the AC (which kicks butt) but haven't used the AC. No scent to the clear fluid, temps all look good. Running fine. Where does the AC discharge go? Could AC be on (not on AC but set in blue zone on dial)? Reservoir looks ok but could e small volume of drips.
View 12 RepliesI have a 1996 Toyota Camry it has a small leak-from the "Rear Main Seal" Very expensive to repair. I can't afford that at this time. I put in Valvoline Maxlife for older cars, sealed for couple mnthsnow its leaking again. Its not PCV. Would it damage other car parts? " Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak and Conditioner"...
View 6 RepliesMy girfriend's 2000 Elantra with 175,000 m leaks oil from it's rear main seal, which was replaced once before. Her mechanic has told her that it's not worth replacing again, because the groove it fits in has widened and can never be sealed completely. Does this make sense?
View 5 RepliesI've got a late 99 7.3 truck that I just recently did a lot of work on. I installed a new turbo with bellowed up pipes and a new exhaust system and when I went to start it up it started leaking fuel in the back pretty badly. Initially I thought it was the banjo bolt or the passenger fuel line but looking at it more closely I realized that it's not coming from there. It's dripping all over the side of the starter and is collecting at the low point of the metal lines down below. I also saw small droplets coming out of the up pipe where it meets the manifold but it looked like nowhere near enough to produce the kind of leak I'm seeing, also I know fuel shouldn't be coming out of the up pipe to begin with. This is really annoying and I would like to drive my truck again.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1996 Toyota Camry it has a small leak-from the "Rear Main Seal" Very expensive to repair $800 I cant afford that at this time. My question is: can this product be tried as as temporary fix or if it works? Would it damage other car parts? " Blue Devil Rear Main Seal Stop Leak and Conditioner.
View 7 Replies2014 RX 350 - 8700 miles - Rear Main Seal Leak
Very disappointed that my new RX with only 8700 miles and has never even had an oil change now has a rear main seal leak. The dealership says that the gasket was defective and that there is no other visible damage. The dealership has filed a case with Lexus corporate.
Granted that it will soon be fixed at no cost to me, it's still very disappointing that a brand I hold so high for quality has let me down in such a big way.
We have a 97 f150 4x4, I have pulled the transmission for repair. The rear main seal is not leaking however I have always replaced them when I pulled a tranny. This is a 5.4l and after removing the flywheel I noticed there is another cover around the crankshaft held on by 8mm bolts around the side and 2 oil pan bolts on the bottom. Does this cover come off to fully access the seal? Is there a gasket available for this cover or is silicone the standard?
View 1 Replies2014 RX 350 - 10,300 miles - Rear Main Seal Leak #2
Brought car into the dealership to repair my rear main for a second time. Looks like every 5,000 miles the leak shows up.
The dealership has repaired the rear main seal a second time, and guess what?
Two days later at the dealership the car started leaking oil again.
So now it's been identified that the entire short block needs to be replaced. Should take another week to repair.
This has been the worst experience I've ever had with a new car. Now I have a relatively new car (10,300 miles) that has had 2 rear main seals repaired, a short block replaced, replaced front parking sensors, and a radio that displays the wrong time when first starting the car.
I'm dripping fuel on top of the engine at the fuel filter . Where the line ties into the filter canister , there is a small plate that's attached with small Allen screws its dripping between this plate and the canister .... I assume there is a gasket/oring that is causing it ...... What is the part number or correct description so I can go to ford dealer and get one.
2007 Ford 4X4. 6.0 diesel
Last year, I had the unfortunate experience of having to get my engine replaced on a 2003 Infiniti G35 (only 121k miles, I got it used in '06, long story, I assume previous owner didn't take very good care of it). I opted to have a local mechanic find a used engine instead of paying for a rebuilt one and he was able to find one that had ~60k miles on it so I went with it. Now it's 9 months later and I have started noticing a burning oil smell while sitting in the car at a stop. I took it into a shop (not the one that replaced the engine, different tire and lube shop) and they found that the rear main seal was leaking pretty badly and that's where the smell was coming from. They don't do that kind of work so I need to take it somewhere else to get any repair done.
I feel like, if a second diagnosis also says RMS is the problem, that the shop that put in the engine should have given me a new RMS when they put in the used engine. Is it not something that would be visible and thus easily replaced when installing the new engine? If they did in fact replace it, it wouldn't possibly have failed on its own after only 8 or 9k miles, would it? I don't normally hearing about RMS problems until cars are well over 100k miles.