Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Rattle From Inside Exhaust Like Something Is Loose Inside The Pipe
Feb 16, 2016
I recently upgraded my exhaust from stock to a 4" Magna Flow Turbo back kit. After the upgrade, I noticed a strange rattle coming from the tail pipe. It sounded like the pipe was vibrating on something but I checked and it is free from anything touching it. There are no strange noises coming from the engine area. it is only herd at the end of the pipe. If I start the truck it makes a the loose rattle noise like something is loose inside the pipe like the sound you get when you have a bad muffler. About after 4 or 5 minutes I hear the exhaust noise change pitch and make a whooshing noise like a gate or something opening or closing and changing the exhaust flow. After a while it goes away and make the loose rattle returns. The truck has lots of power and preforms great. Where to look?
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I had a fuel starvation problem because Ford painted the inside of the fuel tank and the paint was coming off and clogging the filters and because I foolishly drove it I now have white smoke spewing out of the tail pipe and an engine miss.
I also explained that I thought that the white smoke did not smell sweet like antifreeze, but rather like diesel. (Hoping that a head gasket replacement is not required.)
I am in the middle of doing the Hutch Mod with frame-mounted Racor PS120-2 jar-type screen pre-pump filter and shortening my previous Harpoon Mod and paint stripping and powerwashing the inside of my tank. Next I plan to move on toward the engine issue.
This evening I was under the van with a flashlight and I noticed that there was a black liquid of some sort at the driver's side exhaust manifold where it joins the up-pipe. At first I was afraid to touch it fearing that it would be carbon-sooted water, but it felt and tasted like carbon-sooted diesel.
And since I haven't started the engine in two weeks and it has been routinely near or over 100F in Sacramento, water would have likely evaporated days ago.
Does it make sense if the fuel starvation problem caused an injector nozzle or its cup to crack or to stick open or to otherwise spew unburnt fuel into the exhaust manifold which would cause the white smoke? Obviously, the unburnt fuel must get from the affected cylinder(s) to the tail pipe somehow, which likely means out the exhaust valve, through the exhaust manifold to the up-pipe and through the turbo to the exhaust pipe and finally to the tail pipe.
See pictures at my CP. I can't figure out how to attach them or put them inline here because it still says I can't do attachments.
What is my next move? Remove the driver's side valve cover? If so, what should I look for, etc.?
2002 E350 extended body van 7.3 diesel auto trans converted to 4x4 (bought new)
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We have a 2003 Explorer Sportrac and the fuel cap light came on. Then ck engine light came on. took it to a dealer to check it out. Said it has a fuel pressur issue. could be the cap or something in the fuel tank. it needs a pressure check they said. cleared codes and put new factory fuel cap on. 2 weeks later it happened again.
XLT model 108,000 miles on it and we are the original owners...
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I just finished installing a new turbo (shaft play and lots of oil in the compressor side), RR up-pipes, and T500 (250k and once had a very long crank to get the ICP up to start).
Anyway, except for another exhaust leak at the pass side up-pipe to manifold, it seemed to run okay but with lots of white smoke. I only have about 50 miles after the install, when it suddenly starting surging and made a lot of loud knocking noises. This then went away and came back again rather quickly. I was close to home, so I made back under power. I also received the two codes listed. My IPR is original, but two summers ago I installed the IPR re-seal kit. Everything on the IPR looked good when it came off for the T500.
After reading around, I saw that low fuel pressure / air in fuel can cause problems. I connected a pressure gauge to the pre-filter port on the filter housing, and got 40psi at idle. I then took a diesel shower and blew out the fuel line into the tank. After re-connecting it, the fuel pressure stayed the same but the engines idles much better, but still has blue smoke. It's the original fuel pump (to me anyway) and original fuel line connections.
I have about 3/4 tank, and no place to put it, so I'd need to run it out for the Hutch mod, or least to get in there and inspect. Would eliminating the Ford connections at the pump be worthwhile for now, and is 40psi at idle adequate? Wondering if it's time for a fuel pump?
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I picked up a 2000 4x4 F250 on Saturday.
The truck rides pretty good but on bumpy roads there is a loose sounding rattle in the front end. Also when applying the brakes there is a thud in the front drives side. You can feel it in the drivers floor board a little. Once you start braking about halfway to complete stop is when the thud is, if that makes sense. I suspect bushings but how do I know which ones.
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I have a 2000 Ford F350 7.3 with the auto and 262,000 miles on it. As far as I know everything is stock on this truck. It has been a great truck but lately its been making a strange noise. It almost sounds like an exhaust rattle or vibration but it is intermittent. Its not really loud it can be heard best in the cab at idle. I've looked all over on the truck and haven't found anything. I can't pinpoint where it is coming from. I tried starting the truck with the serpentine belt off no change.
I took the inspection plate off the bell housing and couldn't see any cracks the torque converter bolts appear tight, and the starter is not engaged while running. I've read a few forums on the torque converter going bad. It looks to me like its more the 99 trucks that had trouble with that. Did the torque converter issue carry over to the 2000's? Would a torque converter/transmission problem be intermittent?
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I have a 2002 F150 Lariat Supercrew, and suddenly a bad rattle developed inside the passenger side door. The window still works fine, but I'm afraid it won't much longer. I have taken the panel off, and can reach into one of the supports and mimic the rattle. When you shut the door, it sounds like the glass is going to fall out. I had to replace the motor on the driver's side door a couple of years ago, and I'm hoping to prevent another window sliding down inside the door. How to fix this situation? I haven't been able to feel anything that may have come loose.
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How to get rid of the rust build up inside the exhaust right at the exit point. The dual exhaust is in front of the right rear tire. 2005 f-150 5.4.
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I would I have a 01 7.3 e350 with 111k miles. I drove the van a couple of days ago.it sat for 2 days and now it wont go past 30mph.the van shakes crazy and went when i hit the petal no power with smoke coming out the tail pipe sometimes. When I shut the van off and restart it to drive it,it sounds better. I changed the fuel filter with motorcraft and changed the oil. Here is the kicker. It ran good after I changed the fuel filter the whole day and now its 4th of july and I went to get some drinks and it happened again.
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Over the weekend I replaced the passenger side up pipe with one that doesn't have a spot for the EGR cooler. After putting the turbo back in it has a pretty bad exhaust leak. Sounds like it is on the drivers side somewhere near the Y pipe. When replacing the passenger up pipe I didn't loosen any manifold bolts or anything and I am thinking that the Y pipe is out of alignment with the turbo. What is the proper procedure to loosen everything up and get it aligned on the turbo? My guess is remove turbo, loosen drivers side manifold, loosen passenger side manifold, loosen passenger up pipe and tighten it again now that everything isn't under tension, install turbo and clamp to Y pipe, tighten manifolds. Is that the right idea?
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Small oil leak looks like coming down by drivers side up pipe. I don't think it's the turbo o rings. Better not be. But could be I guess. Anyways. It runs down somewhere by the up pipe down onto transmission. I'm not loosing tremendous oil or anything.
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So I had recently developed a leak in the up pipes behind the collector. Big surprise, right?
Well, a 6-point socket was spinning on the collector bolts (probably from rust) so I decided to cut the manifold to up pipe bolts. Got the up pipes off/out. Well after and <acronym title="Manifold Absolute Pressure">MAP</acronym> gas torch, I can't punch ANY of the bolts out.
There is little to no room to get to the bolts. (I have the down pipe removed.) At this point I'll try a few more doses of hot wrench and PB Blaster, but if I have to do the manifolds I'll just pull the engine, since chances are there will be at least one stuck bolt there, too. I really don't want to go that, but eventually I'll need to install my new oil pan anyway.
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I just got a 5 inch turbo back Magnaflow stainless exhaust system installed on my 2007 F 450. The downpipe rests directly on the firewall and causes a horrible vibration and noise at times. I have been on the phone talking directly with Magnaflow trying to resolve this issue
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I just came back from a 200 mile trip and parked my truck. Next day, got in the truck and turned the key.... it turned over and white smoke coming out the tail pipe. After doing some research(you tube),I ruled out cps sensor because it was showing low rpms on tach. Replaced glow plug relay and still have same issue.. what else to look at that I can do without getting it towed. Hunting season coming soon and I need the beast.
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I recently installed a Banks Ram Air Intake on my stock 1999.5 powerstroke and wow did it ever wake up the turbo. A few weeks later i installed a Flo-Pro 5" stainless exhaust from turbo back with no muffler. The truck is running better than it has in years and with 272000 miles, I am pleased with the results. HOWEVER, I have since noticed a little black sticky soot coming out of the tail pipe, a bit of vapor (no oil spitting) from the oil filler tube with the lid off, and now my dip stick tube where it enters the oil pan is leaking. What is going on , or am I now chasing and fixing week points on this truck?
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Ok I'm working on a 2000 7.3 on a F550 truck was running but had no power so we changed out all the injectors and glow plugs and rebuilt the turbo now there is no start it turns over and were getting black smoke from the tail pipe. What is going on with it?
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Heading back up to get the last load of antique tractors from the show and something seemed funny. 2 miles later turn into a side Road less power. Pull over. Oil everywhere. Shut it down. Nut completely unthreaded.
Get it on and tighten as best I could with a pair of channel locks one size too small. Dump in a gallon of oil. Now it is just on the stick. Start it and sounds good. Still leaking.
Called a buddy to see if he can get me. Yep sure but his wife is not happy. Something about him going to Texas at 7 am for work for a week..... Give him directions hoping he makes it since he has no sense of direction.
Obs 7.3 stops. Talk to him. He doesn't have anything better for tools on him but lives a mile down the road. Drop the trailer on the side of the road. Drive to his farm and got some better fitting pliers. Either I got too heavy handed or I cross threaded it. Stripped the nut. The flange threads look good.
Drive back to the trailer and sit intersection so my buddy doesn't miss it. Hook my trailer to his truck and get mine loaded. In the end it turned out as best as it probably could have. Pictures to follow when the sun comes up. Time to read up on the dipstick flange. Hoping a new nut and o-rings will fix it.
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I would like to know if i am the only one that had that problem... a few weeks ago, I had to stop and get the truck towed to the dealership and they told me that my engine was shot. Then they told me it was a glow plug that fell inside the cylinder... didn't know it was possible but any way it was under warranty.
Last Monday they asked me to bring all my service receipt and that ford is asking them to take the engine apart and study it before they would ship a new engine... Are the trying to get away from paying it under warranty? The truck is 2011 with 80000 km (50000 miles).
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What is the tool part number for a good pair of snap ring pliers that are heavy duty enough to remove the snap ring from inside an 05+ 4x4 front hub? I have broken two pairs of regular snap ring pliers attempting to remove it. The snap ring itself is roughly 1/8" thick and copper plated. It really wouldn't be that difficult to remove, but that collar on the spline that it has to pass over is thick too and it is whipping me something serious.
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I have a 2004 F350 with 6.0. My problem is the 4x4 will not engage from inside the truck. I have to get out and twist each hub to lock in the 4 wheel drive. If I rev the engine with high rpms the front will lock in with a big jerk. It use to lock in just by turning switch. What is the best way to fix it?
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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