When starting, rapid clicking like failing batteries. Had dealer install new Motorcraft batteries, and it's still happening. Clicks when i turn the key and then labors while turning over for 20 seconds. Sometimes it takes 2 or three times before it starts. I put in a rebuilt alternater 5 years ago. It seems like a fuel problem, but I'm guessing.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford X diesel with the 7.3 engine. About 2 years ago whenever I would drive it during the summer, and I would shut it off and then a few minutes later tried starting it again, it would start. It doesn't even turn over or making a clicking sound but it acts like the motor is dead. The lights and all the electrical work, but it doesn't turn over at all. It will start back whenever it cools down. It doesn't happen during the winter time or when its cool outside, only when the weather is hot. I've replaced both batteries and the starter but nothing happens. Tonight it did it again and I have to wait 20-30 minutes in the parking lot until it would start again.
View 7 RepliesSo again the a/c in old green gave out. it has been an ongoing battle over the past few years, but this time I took it to a good friend who has all the right tools as our level of frustration dealing with it has peaked.
We removed everything, and got it all "new" from oh-rye-lees. a new compressor was installed a few weeks back and it worked fine, but cycled very strangely. it would rapidly kick in and out, then just stay engaged. found out the condenser was plugged up and thought maybe that was causing it.
At any rate, it now has a new compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier, orifice tube, and low pressure switch. all the lines were flushed and checked.
it was vacuumed and checked, then charged with freon. The compressor is doing the exact same thing! it is cycling very strange. sometimes rapidly at higher rpm, and sometimes it works just fine. the a/c is working, but it is freezing up the drier, evaporator, and line all the way back to the compressor. vent temps are about 30.
The WOT relay and high pressure switch was replaced, and it did not make a difference. we are at a total loss.
We were told by another person that the clutch on the new compressor was too small and that was causing the issue. It measure 4.8" and we were told is is supposed to be 5.3". is there any truth to that? we just do not know what is causing this, but want to get it right as surely something will break if it stays this way.
So I have recently did a body swap on my 7.3 I rolled. Put a body from another one this one. Before I took the old body off the engine ran fine. Nothing wrong at all.
Now that I have the new body on, I am stuck with a fuel shutoff switch. I read that it is suppose to be pressed down, but when it is pressed down, I turn the key and 4 relays under the hood click rapidly, 2 under the dash, and the drive side blinker blinks? Anyway, when I push it up, and turn the key, all the lights come on normally, wait to start light comes on. It'll crank good, the battery's are good, had them tested and fully charged. Checked ando triple check all battery connections and grounds. Anyway, it'll crank and want to start it fire up for a second and die. The low pressure oil gauge on the dash doesn't go up, but I think I broke the sensor connector for that. The fuel pump doesn't make any noise, the fuel bowl has fuel in it, but does fill up with fuel. So I'm thinking the fuel pump is somehow shorted out, so when I depress the fuel shutoff switch it makes everything go crazy. But even then the fuel pump doesn't make any noise?
Passenger tail light bulb went out who knows when, but was alerted about it today. Every other time this has happened, in multiple vehicles, the turn signal blinks rapidly to let you know the bulb is out. Mine blinked normally.
In the past year I've had to change my multi function switch and more recently the flasher relay for the blinkers. Just a standard relay from the parts store, not the heavy duty one or anything. It did say it was LED compatible, so I wonder if that is why it didn't pick it up? Why I didn't get the rapid blinking?
So I was trying to put led turn signals in my truck then I decided not to because it was getting too dark. Earlier today started without complaints. Then after I was done with the headlights I tried to start my truck, nothing besides rapid clicking. First thought was battery was dead from me leaving the dome light on the entire time while working on it and also having the headlights on a good portion, so I decide I'll jump it. Get it all hooked up and and start the donor truck then wait 2 mins and try to start my truck still nothing but rapid clicks. I got the voltage meter out to check the battery and had 11.97 volts (that's not great but either way it wouldn't start when I tried to jump it). Put it on a charger? Bad starter? Solenoid?
View 11 RepliesNew to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
I'm having issues with my girlfriends truck turning over. It won't turn over at all. I'm not getting any power to the small wire on the relay on the passenger fender or the red wire with a blue stripe off the ignition module.
I've cleaned and tested the batteries and the terminals. I've replaced the ignition switch the ignition module the starter and the starter relay on the passenger fender and I've also checked the neutral safety switch. I've checked all the fuses and relays also.
It's a 2000 Ford 7.3l automatic.
So I've been having issues with starting my truck lately. It was really hard to turn over, would start really hard when it did and would blow some black smoke. Turns out my starter was bad so I replaced it with a DB Electric high torque starter. Now it starts up great... for the most part.
I'm still having some black smoke when it's a cold start and/or I have the key set to "On" to warm the glow plugs for a few seconds. It's almost like the starter is turning over the engine, but for the first few turns it sounds empty or hollow (at least that's the best way I can describe it). After the first turns it will sound normal how it's supposed to and will fire up shortly after but with some black smoke.
If my car is already warm it cranks right up without any smoke unless I have the key set to "On" for a few seconds to warm the glow plugs like I said earlier. Pretty much if I warm the glow plugs it makes it harder to start up for some odd reason.
What might cause this or how to fix it? Maybe some of my glow plugs are going bad, or possibly my IDM? I used to have the P1670 code by itself, however, that went away when I replaced the starter. I also just replaced my camshaft position sensor just to be sure it wasn't going bad. I've also been having some boost pressure leaks if that's relevant at all.
Alright so I have a 99 7.3l. One day I went to start my truck and when I turn the key to the on position all is normal and then when I turn it all the way to crank it nothing happens. I hear a relay click ann thed that's it. Me and a buddy of mine spent quite some time on going through the entire truck. The starter was replaced, the neutral safety switch was replaced and the ignition switch was replaced yet the problem is still there. We then discovered that fuse #20 under the dash keeps blowing with every turn of the key. The manual states that this fuse is a starter motor relay coil PCM ( gasoline only). So if it's gas only why is it even in there. Let me just say that I can jump the fender mounted relay and the truck starts.
View 7 RepliesI have a 7.3 Excursion, 234K Miles, 4R100 Transmission. Today I was in a rush to take one of our dogs to the vet, when I hit overdrive going up a hill, it almost sounded like a clicking noise and I was steadily losing power. I came to a stop sign and put it in park and it started to develop a constant lope that was rough. Whenever I would step on the gas it would put out white smoke which it has never done before. I was able to take it a couple miles before it did the same thing except this time it shut itself off.
Recently I have been having transmission issues as it feels im losing first gear. A while back I noticed it would idle slightly in park every now and then. A couple days before this happened, I came to a stop and my truck started loping slightly and first gear IN DRIVE felt very very weak. I have recently replaced the cam position sensor as well as the ICP sensor. I'm at a loss, I plan to do a ZF6 transmission swap very soon and this is only making me panic even more.
I never dog the truck, take it mudding, etc. Oil is changed every 3-4,000 miles. I did however get it scanned a while back and I believe two codes came up for two pistons, also did an injector buzz test and they all sounded strong.
Drove it last night around 9pm. Parked it and went to drive it again this morning around 7:30. No cold weather here or rain. Here is what I know: When I turn the key I hear a click (not a repeating click) but the engine doesn't turn over. Batteries have 12.5 volts. I put my trickle charger on them and had full charge after about 3 or 4 minutes. When I turn the key the headlights do not go dim. I put a screw driver across the solenoid on the passenger side fender and got a strong arc. When I do that, I can also hear another click that sounds like its coming from the engine. I tapped the starter a few times with a hammer, but it still wont turn over. I'm guessing bad starter.
View 14 RepliesTrying to track down an issue (annoyance) I'm having with my 02 7.3 4x4 excursion. When I get in the truck and turn the key (after waiting for glow plugs) the starter doesn't actually turn over for 1-3 seconds and sometimes up to 5. When the truck does turn over everything works perfect it's just an annoying delay.
View 13 Replies2003 7.3, AC compressor clicks like crazy. Can he hear outside the vehicle while idling?
The round disc on the front of it is what is making the noise.
The AC used to work awesome but now only blows cool air for about 10 minutes then turns lukewarm.
Is the clutch on my compressor bad? I have heard they can be adjusted, but not sure how.
I was hearing a clicking noise on my passenger front wheel when rotating by hand.
Paul suggested I remove the ESOF hub and see if it is the wheel hub or the ESOF hub. It's the ESOF hub.
So I'd like to rebuild it for sure, it also has a nicked o-ring, so that accounts for part of the vacuum leak
I'd like to service the driver's side, too, while I'm at it. It doesn't exhibit any issues, so just regular maintenance stuff there.
Parts lists?
As always, I'll take pics in return
Had a weird issue come up this weekend. I went to drive my truck for the first time in a couple of weeks and when I got in I noticed a constant clicking from under the dash (whether the truck was on, off or if the indicators / hazard lights were on or off). I investigated and found it was my flasher relay. I have replaced this relay recently (within the past year) to an EP27L to accommodate the LED lighting I installed throughout the truck (hyper flash on the old relay doesn't even describe it properly, it was a constant buzz!) and it has been working perfectly until this point.
I thought it may just be something going on with the relay so I pulled it and replaced with the old EP27 unit I still had. It does the same thing, albeit at a slower rate (every 4-5 seconds). The lights do not blink when it is doing this, but still operate normally when I move my stalk up or down or when I press the hazard / flasher button on top of the steering column.
I am wondering if there is a short somewhere in my multifunction switch that is causing this issue? If so, why would it come up when truck has been sat? I didn't have the time, not the inclination to roll around inside my truck (hotter than hades here in Florida right now) to troubleshoot any further. I pulled the relay altogether until I get some time and cooler weather to look into it further. Otherwise the truck seems to operate as normal, even all the lighting seems to have no ill effects from this?
I have a '92 Honda Accord LX and has 200,000 mi. When I tried to start the car it will not start. The engine will not turn over and a rapid clicking will follow a few seconds later. I do not think its the battery b/c the radio still works as well as the lights. I'm suspecting it might be the starter motor or the solenoid?
View 2 RepliesI just did an engine swap and have an odd noise that I was curious on where to start. It sounds like a buzz test on an injector at 2,250 rpm and gets louder as rpms increase but starts out very faint and get louder. Makes noise converter unlocked and locked in gear under load and free rev no load.
-2002 F550
-Fuel pressure is 60+ psi all the time
-Regulated return fuel system
-New injectors all AD
-Stock tune
-38R turbo
-New flexplate
-injector hold down tight
-new degas res
-new water pump.....
On 2500 mile trip, no A/C last 400 miles and we're cooking
Compressor clicking on/off about every 5 secs, clutch smell. Seems to be turning okay.
I brought some tools, including a full socket set.
Can I pull the clutch and remove shims in the campground? Looking for a condensed version of how?
Worst case, how do I replace the clutch- of I can find a dealer with one?
Pulley and clutch fixed, but cycling on and off...adding freon?
Batteries charged, connection & cables checked. After turning ignition switch, gauges on dash jump around & starts clicking in fuse panel. Top left relay then clicking sound from beside steering column on right side next to trailer brake box. Been having electrical issues & something draining batteries...had absolutely no cold start this winter. No decent mechanics here other than to be ripped a new one @ local dealership.
View 1 Replies1999 ford F250 SD V10 ... When this goes on the truck misfires and tries to die. Usually I can key the ignition in nuetral and the clicking stops and the truck starts and runs better....
View 6 Replies