Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Power Come On But Won't Start - Broken Ignition Switch?
Jul 5, 2015
Went to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
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I seem to have a glitch in my ignition switch box or column. Most likely in the column itself. Whats the recommended course of action here? Contact cleaner and then white lithium grease in the column? Can WLG be used on the ignition switch box itself, that's bolted under the column?
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I broke my radiator drain plug got a replacement but how does the stock one come out? Is there a clip or something?
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Just bought a 03, the seller showed me a exhaust leak. I found a bolt broken off, flush with the head. Looked at the passenger side when I got home, that side leaks too, and found one broken off bolt there too. Question, are these easy to do? As in, I have extracted broken bolts before, but they where on my V10 and I could just weld nuts to them and they came right out.
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So I received my International bellowed up pipes from Riffraff and I figure I will start soaking all of the bolts with some aerokroil before I get started on monday and I see the very last bolt head near the up pipe is gone. The bolt is there but the head is gone and you can definitely see soot buildup everywhere near it. I don't know if I should order a new manifold for the passenger side and new bolts, order a driver and passenger side manifold and new bolts, or just order one set of new bolts and try to get take the passenger side manifold off and replace the one broken bolt.
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Well I just "did" the glow plugs on my recently acquired 99 7.3 and while 7 came out with no problem, one of them gave me more resistance when turning than expected and then "snap". Now here is the interesting part. What actually came out is the threaded top portion of the outer wall, while the rest of the outer wall and the electrode are still in the block. I have done a lot of searching and it seems that usually the electrode detaches from the outer casing and the entire outer casing comes out with only the electrode or part of the electrode stuck in the shaft (usually due to carbon buildup or swollen tip). In this case though, the outer wall of the plug sheared in two, which seems to imply that the outer wall itself is what is stuck in the shaft and not the electrode. The attached picture hopefully explains what I am trying to say.
I can easily latch on to the end of the electrode with some vice grips, but even if I managed to get that out, I would still have the outer wall of the plug in the hole. At the moment I just screwed the threaded part back in to keep the everything from blowing out so I could crank the truck. It cranked right up and seems to run fine. My inclination is to just leave it as is and hope that 7 good glow plugs will do the job, as I have some nightmares about making things worse in trying to make them better. Any chance of the electrode falling into the cylinder if this much of the outer case is still there? How to remove stuck electrodes, etc. but none on a stuck outer casing?
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My truck was stolen over the weekend. Fortunately, it was recovered but they broke the key lock on the steering column and I'm having a hard time getting it started. I can turn the ignition all the way to the start position with my key or a screwdriver but the starter never engages. I'm sure I'm missing something simple but I can't seem to figure it out. Looking for instructions on how to get this started again?
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I have an early 99 f350. when i got the truck the OD switch(maybe light too) didn't work. i ran it for about 1k mi. yesterday i left work to come home and i didn't have 1st or 2nd gear but still had 3rd and od. the only way to get 2nd is to manually put it in 2nd gear. 1st seems to be nowhere around.
I do not have a code reader and wont for at least a month or so. I did install a simple ts6 in it, that's about all i did with the truck.
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My ESOF crapped the bed as the truck was stuck in 4 Low. I took the transfer case motor switch off to access the gear underneath it.
I'm able to get vise-grips on it but it only turns clockwise. It keeps turning to a point it won't turn anymore and, if I let go, it will switch back to its original position.
I can do without 4WD until I get ESOF fixed, but is there a trick to manually changing it to 2WD?
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So was replacing my power steering pump get all done and my headlights start flickering and then stay on the switch is off it does have DRL on it but they have been unplugged for about 10 years what do I need to check
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So I tried to replace my thermostat and housing and the housing bolt snapped off. Ok so I tried to extract that bolt off and the extractor bolt snapped off inside. I am guessing it might just be easiest to replace the water pump now? I am pretty much at the end of my mechanical rope which is short anyhow.
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New to these trucks so a quick question on the window switch controls. I put power to the truck for the first time in about 8 years. First thing i wanted to do is see if the power windows worked. Everything went down very nicely but getting them back up was a no go from the driver seat. They all worked well seperatly but not from the pilots seat? Is it a typical issue with these trucks? When rocking the switch I can hear a relay under the dash panel close to where the access panel for the fuses. Mirrors work as well as do the locks. I pryed up the switch panel and un plugged it and reinstalled it with no luck. As it is I cant get the driver side window up or the passanger window up from the driver side?
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So I have a replacement steering column for my truck and need to swap out lock cylinders. My question is; since there is NO key, is there any way to avoid drilling out retaining pin. If I did drill it out am I entirely screwed'?
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I purchased one of the No Start relay for my 2000 Ford F-250 Turbo diesel and need assistance finding the relay to replace.
Originally I thought it was for the fuel pump then then discovered it replaces the ignition relay.
According to the company it's located on the passenger side under the hood. Can't find any fuses there.
I looked in the user manual and found nothing about an ignition relay. Just "PCM Relay Coil, Ignition Coil (Gasoline only), Fuel Heater (Diesel only), Wastegate Solenoid (Diesel only), Injector Driver Module Relay Coil"
The relay I purchased is from: "No Start" Relay, "No-Start" Intelligent Relay System, Vehicle Theft Deterrent
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Not near my truck at the time and wondering if I can install one of these switches. I don't know where the 2 positive battery cables meet.
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I know this is going to sounds lame, my wife can't turn them, they have cover over it that has to be unscrewed to get at 'em. It would be nice to shift in and out "on the fly" as weather condition change.
Is it a difficult change?
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My 2000 f350 has wires that dont match anything I've seen. I need to mate this to an 08 harness so I need to be accurate. I have
(2) yellow. I know this is 12v constant
(2) green/purple I know this is 12v constant
(1) red/black
(2) solid red
(1) solid black
(1) gray/light blue
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I have a 01 f250, I've only had it a couple of months. It has 300k miles on it and has its share of problems. I knew that going in and I just bought it for a work truck around the farm and honestly I don't expect it to work perfectly. But since I have had it there are times where it will not crank, it will only click under the dash and then a second click under the hood. It will do that in the mornings a lot and by the afternoon it will crank. I found that jumping the 2 larger wires on the starter solenoid bypasses the problem and it will turn over and crank. So I replaced the solenoid thinking that was the problem, but it still does the same thing. I know the batteries are good.
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I have a 2000 f350. Lost power whole driving and won't start back up. I have checked all my fuses and relays several times. Have no power to the fuel pump. Tried running a hot wire straight to the pump and still nothing.checked my emergency cur off switch and there is no power there. Also my WTS light isn't coming on now. Tried checking the heater bowl and no power there.
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New to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
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I have the 4r100 transmission how do I bypass the safety switch? Also what are your thoughts on starting the engine with the transmission out? I know to bolt the spacer plate to the engine.
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