Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Popping And Thumping Noise When Make Hard Left Turns Driving Around Town
Apr 28, 2015
Back in January I had my right front wheel bearing and u-joint go out, so I replaced them both. At the time I didn't realize my outer stub axle shaft was wore so I just put it back in. After a little driving the right side started to "thump" and "pop" when I would make hard left turns driving around town.
I replaced the outer front stub axle shaft and seal again because the old one was worn down. This eliminated any play in the u-joint. After a bit of driving the thumping and popping noise came back.
I decided to dig into it today so I pulled it all apart. When everything is apart it turns easily, no issue at all. When I assembled the wheel bearing, torqued it to 55 ft/lbs and installed and "locked" the hub I noticed something peculiar. I can barely turn the whole assembly by hand. I have to put a good amount of force to get the whole assembly to turn at all. When I walk to the driver side with all the same parts there i can turn the wheel bearing and locked axle shaft with one finger on the studs.
I have been in this thing 5 times and can not figure out what the heck is wrong. I can't figure out why this stupid axle shaft and wheel bearing are so hard to turn, together or separately, and I can't figure out how to get my front end to stop that thumping and popping.
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Well my girls car is acting up again. when you make left turns, you can hear this real loud popping, almost cracking noise coming from the passenger side front tire. its a 06 passat with 88k miles on it. What is wrong with it??
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Just started hearing a thumping/ rubbing sound when I make left turns (nothing moving forward or right turns). Thought it might be a tire rubbing but I can't see anything. Starting to think maybe a bad cv joint. Is their a way to check if a cv joint is bad? How hard would it be to replace a cv joint and shaft?
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I have an 08 AWD GS350 ...
For the last few months, it has been squeaking whenever I make hard left turns, (into parking spaces etc, usually low speed). I thought it was the brakes, but just replaced all 4 pads and all 4 rotors. So that officially eliminates that.
The car doesn't have any unusual vibration, tracks straight, so I don't think its a wheel bearing or anything. I jacked the car up and tried to shake the tire/wheel to see if there was any play but don't see anything.
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2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.
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I have been having that nice thumping noise that generally accompanies worn out sway bar bushings. I did bushings last spring but a noise came back shortly thereafter. Finally got bothered enough/ found enough time to take a look at it and tracked it down to the sway bar again. My right front axle mount has taken damage before and is now all bent up, not allowing the bushing clamp to hold tight to the bushing. Pictures of the issue are below.
Front view of the entire mount.
Rear view showing the sway bar mount plate.
I am unsure what to do about this mount. As you can see it has been pretty messed up by the PO. What could be done to fix the issue?
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2003 Escape 2.0L ... I occasionally hear a single "pop" sound when I turn left. It seems to be coming from the area of the right rear wheel. Any obvious candidates for this issue?
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I have a 2010 Honda Civic with about 32K miles on it. Last fall, at around 23K miles, I needed new brake pads and rotors (because I waited too long on the pads). Got those replaced. A few weeks later (I think), it started making a kind of squealing noise when I make left turns. I mentioned it to my mechanic when I took it in for an oil change shortly thereafter, and he said it was probably the belt, but I could wait a bit on replacing it if I wanted to (as he knows I'm always broke).
Three weeks ago, I took the car in for another oil change and to have him change the belt. He put in a new belt, but alas, after driving the car about a mile the noise returned. I called my mechanic, and he said it might be my tensioner, but that such a new tensioner shouldn't need replacing already and that it would still be under warranty. I needed to take it to the dealer anyway because my window mechanism was broken, so while I was there, I had him check out the tensioner. He also said the tensioner was fine, and said that since the belt wasn't a HONDA belt (naturally), that might be making the noise. Last week, I took the car back to the mechanic, who ordered and installed a Honda factory belt free of charge.
Naturally, a mile later, the noise returned. I resisted every urge to drive into oncoming traffic. I used my phone to record the sound so that I could e-mail it to the dealer and my mechanic, give it a listen: [URL] ....
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It's happened to me the last 3 times I've taken my truck out and drove through some deep snow. I have a hard time shifting the transmission from drive to park. The snow must get packed up under the truck near the shift linkages.
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2000 powerstroke 4r100 transmission. It has 155k just had it rebuilt and the shop is having a night as am I. It was shifting hard and the o/d off light would start flashing after you drove it a while. Its still doing the same thing and the shop checked the whole wiring harness and replaced the accumulator twice believing they got a bad re-manufactured one. The only code I can pull is a 605 pcm read only memory error. Could the cause be a bad pcm? The shop doesn't seem to have a clue at this point and I'm out 2500. IV taken it back twice now and Iv driven it a total of 35 miles since the rebuild...
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I've got a loud, intermittent, swooshing, vibrating noise from the front left wheel area at highway speeds. I put a camera down there and saw that when there was noise, the front driveshaft and front left halfshaft were spinning. When they stopped spinning on their own, the noise stopped. Hubs are Warn Premium (gold) and unlocked. Unit bearing already replaced. What could it be?
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My 2002 Honda Odyssey makes a squealing noise when I make a hard left turn. Could it be related to power steering? Is it an urgent problem? I will take a trip next week (~650 miles each way), and need to know if I should address this first.
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Thats the sound coming from I think the front left area and the rate is proportional to speed. It only occurs at slow speed from about 5 to 15 mph and it seems to only occur for about 30% of each rotation. I plan to jack it up and check tire wobble or if the sound occurs during free spin. Any other things to check?
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I have developed a sounds that sounds like metal on metal. Not a grinding but more of a "swish swish swish" light metal rubbing when the truck has been running a mile or two. I can barely hear it over the radio but its very noticeable when the window is down. It is not affected by the pressing the brakes and it gets louder and faster in direct portion to speed. It will occasionally leave and start right back up. I touched the front rim around the hub and it was hotter than I wanted to hold onto. It didn't burn but it was hot. It was 105 degrees that day. Here is what I have done.
I replaced that front hub in 2010 and probably have 50K miles on it. I did the 3-9 test and there was no noticeable play. I spun the hub and while it seems to spin ok it does seem a little dry.... I will pull it tomorrow and see what it looks like.
I pulled the calipers off and the brakes pads are at half way and there is no burnt smell. I spun the rotor and it seemed flat and straight. I do have a small tiny lip all the way around them on both sides but I figured that's normal with 265K. I pulled the pins and they were dry but they didn't seem to be sticking. I cleaned them up with the boots and am going to replace them when I get some brake grease tomorrow. I have not looked real hard at the caliper but I plan on pressing that with a C-Clamp tomorrow to check it. Since the rotors and pads looked OK, I assumed there was not a stuck caliper although haven't ruled it out. The axle behind the hub seem to spin freely before I removed all this stuff and the hubs are not locked.
I think I covered it all .. I also thought it could be a rock or stick but nothing came out of my caliper or rotor when I took them off ..
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I have not had much fun with the front end of my 1999 4x4 7.3 diesel dually. Well I replaced the ball joints with moogs over the winter. Just recently I my truck has developed a thumping sound that I can feel under my driver side floor board. The weird thing is that it does not do it all the time. But yesterday I noticed it for a more extended amount of time.
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I have begun to notice a "Knock" or "rattle" in the engine. I know diesels have a tendency to sound like that just from running but that sound is more of a "cackle" if you ask me.
I can hear the "knock" most noticeably at hard acceleration or taking off in general. It can also be heard during idle and every so faintly at deceleration with the torque converter locked so it makes me thing its mechanical due to the nature of the way the sound is audible.
I believe the sound is coming from the passenger side bank as that is where I can hear it the best with my head under the hood. I have a code reader and checked, I have no visible codes other than it telling me about secondary fuel circuit high which I suspect was from showing off with my friends.
I did a cylinder balance test and again got 3 (PO269) and 8(PO284) which I have been told are very common.
I checked my ICP readings and it was 500~ and 11%
Pulse width for injectors was 2.50~
I did a KOER test and received no codes
Glow Plugs showed okay
KOEO (PO605)- Internal Control Module Read Only Memory error.
Exhaust Absolute Back Pressure was 16.2 at Idle with MBRP 4" Turbo back.
Also, I have noticed a drop of about 5-10 degrees in my oil temp and about 100 degrees drop in my EGT's although it has been pretty cold here recently (32 degree oil temp when I started her at 2 in the afternoon)..
I think it might be a bad piston skirt? I am guessing that from my experience with motorcycle engines but these are a totally different beast and that is why I am here...
I have 634,000 Miles and from what I have been told the engine has never been broken into so I would expect something like this myself. I am mostly looking for a place to start. Should I pull the oil pan and look for debris? (Oil was clean last time I changed it less than 2000 miles ago).
Should I pull the passenger bank apart and look inside? Is there a chance I am just hearing the noise due to the additive wearing off and me being used to the quieter engine?
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I bought a 99 f350 truck. it has a van turbo and exhaust back pressure delete. The truck wont make more than 3 PSI of boost. Ive got a p1690 wastegate actuator circuit code. unplugging the waste actuator does nothing. With the van turbo, is the actuator required? Is this code stopping the ecu from fueling and creating boost? I did a cylinder balance test, and cylinder 8 failed. Is a single injector not quite balanced enough to make it not boost past 3 psi? The turbo appears brand new (previous owner said it was), charge pipes hold pressure (tested), EBP Sensor tube is clean (shows up to 24 psi). I tested the wastegate actuator, OnDemand5 says if its over 50 ohms, its bad and replace it. its 69.5 ohms. Again, i dont want to replace it if i dont have to, as its not being used (no wastegate on van turbo), but if the ecu is preventing it from spooling because of the solenoid, ill change it.
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I have an '03 Ranger and the guys have figured out how to make the front side marker lights function as turn signal indicators..... I haven't tried it yet myself, but wonder if I could do the same thing with my Dually's fender clearance lights? I am currently running LEDs in there in amber for front and red for rear....they are nice and bright, but I think they would offer some added safety as well as looking neat too. May be I'll re-read the info on the Ranger site......
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I had a piece of an exhaust valve break off and as one knows, that requires an engine rebuild. I have a rebuilt engine with new upgrades to my previous upgrades; fluid dampener, chrome moly push tubes, billet flywheel, T-500 HPOP, new front cover, up pipes, Dieselsite ball bearing turbo, OEM rebuild kit, comp cam valve springs and all new valves. Had some issues with the Dieselsite turbo that was worked out. Now I have a cackling noise at idle and while driving. The noise momentarily goes away for about 2-3 seconds while accelerating, (actually gets very quiet) but the noise returns. It doesn't seem to effect my performance, just very loud. I performed a cylinder contribution test, (passed) and injector buzz test, (passed).
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My old truck is still running, running pretty good actually. it has a "tick" though. it is only present at low rpm while driving. it reminds me of an exhaust leak or a lifter on a gas car. I looked under the truck where the exhaust stuff hooks up and didn't notice any soot evidence. it doesn't make the sound in neutral as bad.
I did the buzz test with forscan and they all passed none sounded weak. I did the CCT test and 3,8, and 5 failed. I am running the grey CPS and have read it can contribute to a fail on 3 and 8, don't know about 5. If it were a rod knocking, I am sure I could tell, that's a fairly distinct sound. I am wondering if the bearing on number 5 rod is getting bad? truck doesn't burn oil, only a dab of black smoke when I really spool. it will make the sound also on deceleration.
I plan on replacing the engine soon, but want to salvage the core so I can tear it apart and learn maybe build a go getter.
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I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
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