Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Persistent Coolant Leak At The Thermostat Outlet
Oct 31, 2016
The truck has been a dream for several months and I had a coolant leak at the thermostat outlet. Changed the fitting and thermostat and sealed with lots of blue monkey snot. It's been perfect for a couple months but a week ago it started leaking again. Exactly the same as last time. I cleaned the mating surface of the water pump with a plastic scraper to remove the old sealer and then finished it with fine scotch brite. I looked at several parts breakdowns and none of them showed a gasket.......
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My serp belt started squealing so I pulled the thermostat housing to inspect the rubber gasket. It looked OK, but I cleaned up both surfaces and replaced with a new gasket, and put it back together. The housing was replaced just a couple months ago along with new hoses. It was not corroded and OK to reuse.
Started the truck up and saw a slowish/steady drip of red Cat ELC dripping on the driveway. Opened the hood up again and carefully inspected around the thermostat housing - no coolant is leaking there.
I did notice the same slow/steady drip coming from just behind and beneath the thermostat housing. See in pic, this is where it is dripping. One other question, what is this plug for on the side of the water pump?
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I've had a persistent diesel leak its gotten worse and I've found it. Its in the valley of the V. I've attached a photo of the part its the one with the plug off it.
What it is called and maybe the part number. The gray plug under the red wire.
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The drip pan under my 2005 X 6.0 was relatively full with coolant last week. The leak is intermittent, but persistent. After investigating, it appears to be coming from somewhere on the driver's side on the back of the engine. The coolant is running down the seam where the transmission mounts to the block, but I can't get my mirror back there to see exactly where it's coming from. It's not coming from the side of block and there's no evidence of coolant on top (in the valley).
I've only been doing "city" driving (no towing or highway trips) since before the leak began and the max ECT I've observed is around 205*, with 40-60* ambient temps. It's not overheating, but I have noticed the heater air is cool when I'm at a stoplight, suggesting the coolant level is low (I've refilled coolant once and heater worked fine afterwards).
I have not observed oil in the degas bottle, but have not yet checked the dipstick for coolant bubbles in the oil. Also, FWIW, I had to replace my degas bottle back in October after it cracked on the side. I do use ELC free, red coolant, have a coolant filter and flushed the system about 18 months ago.
Thoughts on source of coolant leak? Don't say head gasket....
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I had just replaced my the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel bowl because it appeared to be leaking from where the FPR is, now with the new FPR , it is no longer leaking from there but now leaking (fast steady leak while running) from the fuel rail outlet fitting... How do you replace these, why all of the sudden it started leaking there ???
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I was searching for an oil leak forever. In my search for the leak I resealed my hpop, redid oilcooler rings and last week had a friend pull my motor to redo the pan gasket. The leaks were almost down to where I thought we had them beat. Now in the last couple days I'm losing coolant and oil....bad. there is oil on the ground mostly from the cross member. Question is did my oil cooler fix not take? I have read that a nicked of ring can cause this.
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I have a coolant leak from behind my timing cover found while doing a coolant system pressure test. I do not want to remove the engine. Looking for info on successful cover install with the engine still in the truck?
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2003 7.3 175,000 miles...
Saw a stain in my driveway where you normally see AC drip. Opened hood and saw degas empty.
Looking around like crazy and find wet area. Where the coolant line turns down beside the passenger fender.
Looks wet near bend going toward running board. Didn't get to inspect much but I pulled back a bit of loom to inspect shape of lines and they look great.
What could be going on?
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Is this common? No coolant in the oil-YET........
Any way to fix it without pulling the cover?
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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2003 F250 7.3... I noticed a water leak dripping down onto passenger side front leaf spring. I saw this before but attributed it to the AC (which kicks butt) but haven't used the AC. No scent to the clear fluid, temps all look good. Running fine. Where does the AC discharge go? Could AC be on (not on AC but set in blue zone on dial)? Reservoir looks ok but could e small volume of drips.
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I'm trying to figure where the coolant leak is. Appears to originate on the driver's side front, right near the thermostat housing. Since the engine tilts back the entire drivers side is wet. The thermostat gasket appears to be OK, but it does have a lot of miles on it.
If it's not the thermostat then can coolant leak from the cross over tube. And is the cross over removable without taking off the intake. There appears to be a bolt coming up from underneath on the passenger side.
Also, does coolant flow through this plastic intake. If it does, then the leak could be some where else, if not, then it's probably the thermostat.
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Tried to flush it and got as far as draining everything. I can't hook up my T and begin the flushing process because I can't remove the thermostat. I have a buddy who can get the bolt out but I'd have to be able to drive the truck to him. I've tried just about everything to remove it. I did manage to find some replacements for when I do get the last one out though .Is there a way to still flush this thing like maybe just hook up the hose to the t and run the engine with the heat on to open the thermostat?
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I'm about to replace my IPR and my thermostat, and just watched a video saying after replacing the thermostat you need to bleed the air out of the system to get rid of air pockets so you don't overheat the engine. Is this true and if so how do you do it? Also, how much coolant do I need to drain before taking off the upper radiator hose?
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So I tried to replace my thermostat and housing and the housing bolt snapped off. Ok so I tried to extract that bolt off and the extractor bolt snapped off inside. I am guessing it might just be easiest to replace the water pump now? I am pretty much at the end of my mechanical rope which is short anyhow.
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My 2003 6.0 has a coolant leak. It leaks slowly while not running and more quickly while running. I have about an 8 mile drive to work every day, I can make it there and back without having to add coolant but I'm cutting it pretty close by the time I get home. In short I go from the max fill line to bone dry in about 24 hours.
With the truck running I can see water getting slung around all over the front of the engine but the majority of it seems to be coming from around the two larger pulleys in the middle. I've read that this can either be the crankshaft seal or the water pump, any way to know for sure? Any other possibilities?
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If you have a coolant leak at the y hose for the intake manifold and the thermostat, make sure you replace the upper radiator hose as well as the y hose.
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02 Jetta 2.0L that I changed the thermostat. o-ring, and cover on when I first got the car about a year and a half ago.
I see dry g12 coming out from behind the cover and my coolant bulb had dipped quite a bit in recent weeks requiring a refill. What is most likely the problem here in such a short period of time? I've only put like 10k miles on the car in that period. O-ring couldn't have seated wrong because wouldn't the problem have been apparent immediately back when I did the job? Maybe I need to re-torque the cover? Cracked cover?
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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Bought a used 2000 Jetta, 2.0L AEG engine by the looks of it, 188k miles. Previous owner told me he did a bit of work on it, and acknowledged the coolant leak - have to fill the overflow ball about once a week. He said he recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, and tensioner pulley. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
From what I can see it seems to be leaking at the outlet flange (see pics of rust).
Would any of this cause the water in the overflow ball to be rusty yellow (see pics)? Should I just go ahead and replace the ball and then the o-ring at the outlet flange?
I'm new to VWs, but am up for a bit of work to make sure it gets to 200k miles (bought the Bentley manual).
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I have a coolant leak coming from I am assuming the thermostat housing or thermostat. My question is, is there a gasket behind this that I am assuming is bad or is the thermostat bad.
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