My passenger side wheel bearing is going out. I had a local company replace it under extended warranty 7 years and 90k miles back. I think I have gotten pretty good life out of it. I think it was from Napa but not positive. I try to grease then once a year but I'm not always successful.
View 14 RepliesI'm in the middle of replacing the hub and bearing assembly, once i got the hub assembly off, I noticed when I grab the axle there is a lot of play if I pull the axle up and down or left to right. Is this normal as the hub assembly holds it in position? I don't have any fluid leaking so the seal must be good, or am I missing something. I am trying to do this in 30 degree weather and it sucks.
View 10 RepliesAs soon as I stepped on the brake and started to move backwards out of the garage, pedal pulsed and ABS light came on. Now it comes on shortly after starting and stepping on the brakes. I just finished the drivers side wheel bearing, u-joint, brake pads, rotors, outer axle stub, and all "outer axles" seals replacement.
AllAboutMPG offered a suggestion about shims on the sensor and checking the ring (never done this, figure it out when I'm there later today?) I figured I'd put this here for some additional input and (hopefully!) later be a good search source and fix for fellow members
Here is the original thread. I installed a Timken complete wheel hub unit with new sensor already installed on the hub.
[URL] ....
I was getting a growl/grinding noise from my front hubs (driver's side I think) when I do a slight right turn like going around a curve, not turning around a corner. Just started happening the last week after returning from a 4th of July roadtrip. First thought was wheel bearings going out and started reading up on the forum here to see what was needed. Last night, I started getting a continuous growl when I was 5 miles from the house so just pulled up and parked it. I'm assuming (without pulling anything apart), it's the bearing assembly and I can get the Timken version at Autozone locally.
The problem is I generally do my heavy maintenance at our family shop in San Antonio but I live in Austin so will need to do this in my driveway. I have all the basic tools, just need to know how involved it is to do in a driveway instead of a shop. Thoughts?
I moved my truck before I noticed exactly where it was coming from then after ward looked in the engine compartment. I had a puddle under the passenger side looks like the hoses going into the passenger glove box area (because I saw a few drops on them). The liquid is silvery. Any guess what fluid this is or where it might be leaking.
The antifreeze doesn't seem to be getting lower. I drove it yesterday for about 30 minutes and no crazy leaks.
I have a 2003 F350 srw 6.0. 4x4. Front driver side wheel bearing went out. Went to the auto parts store got a replacement. Got it all tore apart, put the new one on and the lockout didn't seem to fit right. Is there a difference in wheel bearing assemblies for electronic shift on the fly and regular lockout? I have the electronic shift on the fly lockouts and it had just a little bit of play in it when I put the snap ring back in.
View 3 Replies2003 7.3 175,000 miles...
Saw a stain in my driveway where you normally see AC drip. Opened hood and saw degas empty.
Looking around like crazy and find wet area. Where the coolant line turns down beside the passenger fender.
Looks wet near bend going toward running board. Didn't get to inspect much but I pulled back a bit of loom to inspect shape of lines and they look great.
What could be going on?
Cleaned the truck today & noticed that the carpet in the passenger side footwell was wet, not real bad but wet at the edge by the trim, when I peeled up the trim the channel was full of clean water so I know it's not the heater.
I'm guessing that it may be a blocked drain but won't have time to check for another week, we did have some pretty bad rain last week so maybe it was just too severe for the drain to cope?
I should have taken the pic before I dried it up but the channel between the carpet & the door rubber was pretty much full
There is a mark where the water has run down the floor. Just to the left of the red antenna cable, I pulled out the glove box but couldn't see anywhere obvious that it has got in.
Initially had indications of a leak under the wheel arch on the drivers side.
About 3-4 months back replaced both PS lines and the leak stopped - briefly (maybe a couple a weeks).
Now the leak is back, but what's interesting is I lose more ATF fluid on a single long haul run than I do running round town for 3 weeks. I can't work out where the leak is coming from to identify what else to replace - short of just buying a pump and reservoir and replacing them as I've already done the hoses.
My turbo cooler pipe was hard up against the old PS pipe where it entered the side of the reservoir until I did the replacement hoses. Now I have it out the way but I'm wondering if it's caused some unseen wear or damage.
If I just do the pump to see if that works are the reman units any good out of Autozone or O'reilly's?
2003 Excursion 7.3
There is fuel leaking from somewhere on the passenger side of the engine.
What things should I be looking for? I'm thinking injector? Is it easy to identify and replace?
My 7.3 has a leak on the front diff passenger side. It went into a shop for repair and they did both seal but the passenger side came out with a worse leak than it went in with. So just looked this morning and small pool of oil under the ujoint area on the concrete. Its booked in again to be fixed under warranty repair (place that fixed it, repair came with 2yr warranty) on Wednesday next week - was the earliest I could get.
Question - can i keep driving the truck? I'm making a wild assumption that I can unless I use 4 wheel drive. My intention was to just keep topping up the diff to ensure there is fluid in it. It's the work truck so wouldn't be good to be without....
My passenger side braided line from the HPOP to the passenger head decided to rupture. Got 300k on the clock so that recommended 100k change interval is on the low side. Do I need the 'special tool' to remove the line from the HPOP and what is the current recommendation on a replacement line?
View 14 RepliesI have a Stock 02 f350 7.3 with 66,000 miles ... I'm sure this has been covered plenty if times, but I notice more so on cold days (-20 to 30). My truck after starting and even letting it warm up for a period of time makes a hissing sound from the passenger side of the cab near the dash/glove box area, Like I said I've only really noticed it on cold days ... It usually occurs between 1200 and 1800 rpm and it's a very touchy noise, for example I only really hear it when I'm cruising at a consistent speed, if I get on the gas a little it goes away till I bring it back to consistent throttle cruising then it comes back, same goes for when I let off the gas it goes away until I give it a steady consistent throttle again ....
View 7 RepliesJust tried putting a ts6 on my pcm. First time I hooked it back up I just got cranking with no start. So I pulled the pcm terminals really well plugged it back in and got nothing. I do not remember because I was kind of in a hurry if I unplugged the batter cables and back on the second time. I plugged it back in after cleaning terminals and went to start and got nothing. A loud click on passenger wheel well and then all electric in truck completely dies. I hope I didn't fry my pcm. Maybe just blew a fuse or starter relay?
View 6 RepliesI just finished installing a new turbo (shaft play and lots of oil in the compressor side), RR up-pipes, and T500 (250k and once had a very long crank to get the ICP up to start).
Anyway, except for another exhaust leak at the pass side up-pipe to manifold, it seemed to run okay but with lots of white smoke. I only have about 50 miles after the install, when it suddenly starting surging and made a lot of loud knocking noises. This then went away and came back again rather quickly. I was close to home, so I made back under power. I also received the two codes listed. My IPR is original, but two summers ago I installed the IPR re-seal kit. Everything on the IPR looked good when it came off for the T500.
After reading around, I saw that low fuel pressure / air in fuel can cause problems. I connected a pressure gauge to the pre-filter port on the filter housing, and got 40psi at idle. I then took a diesel shower and blew out the fuel line into the tank. After re-connecting it, the fuel pressure stayed the same but the engines idles much better, but still has blue smoke. It's the original fuel pump (to me anyway) and original fuel line connections.
I have about 3/4 tank, and no place to put it, so I'd need to run it out for the Hutch mod, or least to get in there and inspect. Would eliminating the Ford connections at the pump be worthwhile for now, and is 40psi at idle adequate? Wondering if it's time for a fuel pump?
2003 F250 7.3... I noticed a water leak dripping down onto passenger side front leaf spring. I saw this before but attributed it to the AC (which kicks butt) but haven't used the AC. No scent to the clear fluid, temps all look good. Running fine. Where does the AC discharge go? Could AC be on (not on AC but set in blue zone on dial)? Reservoir looks ok but could e small volume of drips.
View 12 RepliesI need to replace the needle bearing in one of my hubs. I was wondering if the bearing needs pressed in or can it be hammered in with a large socket and a hammer?
View 2 RepliesIt's time to replace my axle bearing and hub assembly. Looking at RiffRaff site they show 3 different models. Early 99, fine course and course. I think I have the course thread but just want to make sure before I order. My truck is a L99 and I don't have the abs sensor. Looks like all 3 have come with the abs sensor. Do I simply not connect the sensor? Here's a pic of what i have. Course thread?
View 3 RepliesLast year around christmas i replaced the drivers side front wheel bearing no issues with that side. pass side wheel bearing started to growl changed it out test drove went smooth took the car for a 100 mile drive about 50 miles in and a little in town driving noticed a hum drove back at 55 mph humming the whole way i would turn to the right any amount and its would quiet up like nothing wrong straighten out or turn the wheels left it would hum figured i didn't press the bearing straight jacked it up to tear down shook the pass tire no excessive play went and shook drivers side noticed the 3 bolts that hold the strut to the mounting plate sheared off any thought i know i gotta get that bolted up before i diagnose any further think a free floating strut would sound like a wheel bearing?
View 3 Replies2001, F250, 4x4, 432,000 miles...
Seems this truck eats up bearing assemblies. Its like every 2-3 years, I'm having to replace one side or the other. And we talking like 30-40,000 miles....
BTW.... although I'm not out doing much 4x4 driving, this truck does do a lot of dirt roads, probably over 50%...
Chasing this knock and I'm starting to get a little bit worried. So I'm looking for what I should do next.
Here is the truck info... 2000 F250 4x4 206k. . Swamps Diesel 200/30's. Terminator HPOP. GTP38R. EBPV delete pedestal. Banks wastegate. AFE stage 2 intake. RiffRaff FRX. 4" exhaust. Hydra chip. John Wood Auto. 6.0 Trans cooler.
I have a knock sound coming from the area of #8. It is noticeably louder in that area with a stethoscope. Its not any louder anywhere else (oil pan, block, otherside of engine, or front). Truck does not smoke and runs and idles great otherwise. Was thinking possibly the cackle/fuel knock issue these trucks have but with bigger injectors and the FRX could this even still be a possibility?! Anyways here is what I've done.
Checked fuel pressure and at idle it is 61/62 with any tune. At WOT on Econ tune it goes down to ~40ish psi. With the extreme tune WOT dived down to 28/29psi. So my thinking was maybe that injector got screwed up so...
Swapped #8 injector with #2 so the front injector with the back to see if either it had some bad o rings or isolate the injector as the problem if the noise moved cylinders with the injector. While I did this I put brand new O-Rings on those two injectors and popped them in. Got it fired up and the knock is still in #8.
Unplugging the injector with the engine running the noise seems to disappear. HOWEVER, when I use the stethoscope the knocking noise still sounds like it's there but very faint. Without the stethoscope I can't hear it. Also driving the truck down the freeway and letting it coast the noise goes away when the injectors get cut off.
Recently pulled off valve cover and checked the pushrods and rockers on #8 and all looked fine. At this point I'm thinking wrist pin, rod bearing or cracked piston??? Could it somehow still be a fuel knock?