Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Parking Brake Light Doesn't On - Replace Brake Sensor?
May 3, 2016
I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
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What is the procedure to remove the parking brake cable from the axle? It looks like the cable has a locking device like the fuel lines but heavier. How do you get that thing out of there without destroying it?
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Got a 2002 7.3 f550 and the other morning it wouldn't go into high idle. Noticed my parking brake light was off. Messed with the switch and eventually jumped straight from the connector to ground... still no light. The light does illuminate with key on. I have tested the fuses. Where do I go from here? Looking for a wiring diagram....
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Parking brake light stays doesn't come on when the parking brake is engaged. The light DOES come on when starting the vehicle and the gauge cluster cycles through its start up procedure. Couldn't find a fuse that would fix my issue...does one exist?
Truck is an '02 F250 w/ 7.3TD and 6 speed manual.
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03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.
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I had my dash apart to install a radio. Didn't really mess with e-brake. Got it all put back together and light on dash is on. Where should I start to fix this? Is the switch with two wires hooked to the e-brake the only way the light can come on? I have worked it manually with no luck.
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2002 F250 7.3 4WD Lariat 129K miles ... Brake lights come on when truck is off/no key ...
Ford replaced VSM in Nov. 2012 for this problem
Ford found rubbing wire upon pedal depression and re-routed wiring in April 2015, again for this same problem.
What gives. I'm hesitant to take it back to the Ford house... any theories??
Also, when ignition is in "on" position, transmission and coolant gauge register "cold". Upon starting, coolant stays at "cold" but tranny gauge immediately goes in to "normal" range. Shouldn't it also say it's still "cold"?
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long time ago i had to change master cylinder and the calipers on the fronts and the break fluid well i decided to test it out and see if they were working fter i was done with them then the light on the dash came on i thought its because the floating thing in the master cylinder was not floating which was not the case i dont think its the sensor i also lost my emergency break shoes never replaced em
01 f250 2wd 7.3l v8 diesel straight pipe 310,xxx
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I recently had my fuel gauge stuck on full and at around the same time, my left rear brake light doesn't work. I do have LED brake lights in the rear so I am not sure if that changes anything. I thinking something with a ground or is it possible that these aren't even related.
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The problem is I haven't seen one for a recent (2011+) SD. I don't see anything that resembles a rear drum. They look like 2 huge regular disc brakes.
I live on a hill. My old man taught me to put the trans in neutral, autos and manuals, put the ebrake on and make sure it holds the vehicle, then put the trans into park or 1st gear. This way the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the transmission.
How do I adjust the Ebrake? It's ALMOST holding the truck, just needs a minor tweak. I don't see the dust cover the write ups described at all. The one that reveals the Star Wheel. Are they different on these years then prior SD's?
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So, that means I have put 106,104 miles on my truck this year, and missed about 7 weeks for the truck being in the shop, could have been another 17,000.
So, it's time to replace the factory original brake pads?
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I was told today my brake lights were out. I checked and sure enough none of the 3 worked. I checked bulbs. Good. I checked all fuses. Good. I replaced brake switch on the pedal. Still no lights. What's next?
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Ever since I've had this truck my parking brake has acted like this. My buddy has an '03 and his acts the same, but I figured I'd ask the question.
9 times out of 10 to set the parking brake, the pedal goes almost to the floor and doesn't seem like it really does anything. The other 1 out of 10 it goes half way and feels like it actually sets. Is this normal?
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Just bought a 2007 supercab with the 5.4 in nice shape, but have an intermittent brake light on the dash. (No ABS, just the brake light.) Our mech. diagnosed a bad Brake Fluid Level switch. I can get a new sensor. I'd like to try and replace this myself and save a lot of money if it's not too difficult.
I'm looking for some clear step-by-step directions on doing this, and have a couple of questions:
Do I need to disconnect the battery first?
Do I need to empty the brake fluid reservoir? (Looks like the sensor is in the bottom of the reservoir, if I take it out without draining res, will I have a mess?)
When looking up the sensor online, I also saw the plug/connector for sale, should I replace that as well?
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I just noticed a small leak (red PS fluid) coming from the rear of my hydroboost in the truck (while working on my shift tube replacement this past weekend). The carpet is not wet, but there is a drip hanging on the rear end of the HB waiting to start leaking itself on the carpet. Also, there appear to be no issues with either braking or steering -- all is smooth, firm, steady, and quiet.
I have nearly 290K miles on the truck, replaced the Master Cylinder probably 8 years ago at roughly 150K miles. I no longer spend nearly as much time on the road as I used to (probably 8K miles per year now compared to a previous eight-year long run at 18-20K miles per year.
Questions.
1) Should I go ahead and replace the HB before it gets worse (I don't know how fast the fade when they start this process)?
2) If I replace the HB, should I go ahead and proactively replace the MC along with it since I'll have the whole system wide open?
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What happens if or when you get air in your brake lines and the air gets into your ABS pump/module? What are the symptoms? Anything other than a soft pedal? My ABS module keeps thinking one of my tires is sliding when i am driving and pulses my pedal and i am at a loss.
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The red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
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I have a 2002 Jetta TDI with the grey leather parking brake handle cover and would like to replace it. How to do this and if I will have to remove the armrest & the plastic trim around the handle?
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Trying to be proactive seems to have backfired on me. What to do? Pull sensors and clean? Checked codes points to both left and right sides.
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I noticed today (smell burning brakes) that my left rear brake is sticking on my 1999 2WD F250. I hear that this is a common problem? Is it usually a defective Caliper or emergency brake Issue? I had my rear brakes done 50k ago with rotors and rebuilt calipers (first set went 130k).... I don't think it was a total clamp down infrared temperature was 275 degrees on sticking brake and 75 degrees on the ones that were not sticking.
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I tried to replace my brake master cylinder today but wasn't able to because of a plug
It's the black plug on the drivers side, the connector is upside down so I can't see how to unplug it I tried for an hour then got too frustrated I had to come inside
My Haynes manual says "unplug" obviously
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