I think my pcm has gone bad. My wait to start light won't come on an when I turn my key on I can't hear my fuel pump cut on anymore. My vacuum pump is also making a loud noise.
View 10 RepliesMy vacuum pump I noticed is running constantly and also my vents are stuck on defrost.
I narrowed it down by taking off the lines going from the tank to the 4x4 solenoid and the tank to the HVAC line. If I plug both lines I get pressure to both but it still won't shut the pump off. Why won't the pump shut off? Leaky tank?
If I plug the red line back into the solenoid I cannot get pressure to come out of the HVAC line. (Switch in cab set in 2wd)
I can make the pump shut off by plugging the main inlet to the pump.
I took the tank out and can't find any cracks or leaks. Could something inside the tank be broke?
Also why can't I get pressure when the red line is plugged into the selinoid?
I can't figure it out. Almost seems like the 4x4 solenoid and the tank are both the problem.
I am in the process of replacing the complete front end on my 02 CC 4x4. Im replacing the hubs the lockers all seals and spindle axles. complete brakes with power stop and stainless brake lines ......I am going to switch back to the original automatic lockers. I am curious if has a simplified one line for the vacuum routing from the pump to the hubs?
View 7 RepliesMy 16 year old F250 4X4 diesel has developed a problem with no backup lights working, and the vacuum pump is not getting power. The fuse (#28) checks out OK, and I'm told to check for a broken wire on or near the backup switch. I don't know where to locate the backup switch. I have the huge Ford Service manuals, but they are written with the perspective that you should already know where the switches are. Where to find the switch?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 6.0l 4x4 with 230k miles. All of a sudden it seems that the fan is very very loud and there may be a very little lost of power. Also i just replaced the fan clutch not sure if that may have anything to do with it. What could it be. I need to get this fixed this week...
View 14 RepliesMy power steering pump was making a loud whining sound. No problem, changed the pump. Now after the truck is started I will have no power steering or brake assist, give the truck a little gas and you can hear the power steering pump "start". I have tried every way to get the air out, or is that not the problem. I even lifted the front of the truck off the ground with a forklift and with the truck off turned the wheel about six times stop to stop. Fluid level looks good and has since adding after the change.
View 4 RepliesYesterday coming home from Morgan Hill I noticed my injectors making a odd sound on all the down hills while coasting - IPR % would drop between 9.8-9% making it almost sound as if the motor was about to complete shut down, RPM range was 500 -800 rpm, ICP 450-550 but the motor almost had a sputter to it... no codes, lights and it didn't run weak or have a lack of power but I've never noticed it before ...
ICP is only a couple years old
IPR is about 1.5 old
Both replaced with OEM parts .. Is this normal - or do I need to start digging somewhere?
Ok, so I leave the fire station this morning headed home and my steering felt weird. About 1/2 mile from home I hit a bump and my drivers side front wheel started making a screeching noise. I stopped and looked out the window and it appeared fine. I limped home and as I pull in the driveway, I lost all my steering. I look under the truck and this is what I found.
Not sure what to do. This is my daily driver and neither of my 2 mechanic friends will answer their phones.
AC compressor makes a loud growling noise and lugs the engine briefly when engaged at idle and the truck has been sitting for weeks. After that initial grind, it works perfectly and makes no harsh noises. Can I replace the compressor bearing or should I swap out the entire compressor?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 ford f250 lariat 4x4 with 236,000 miles. Recently I have noticed when I am applying the brakes it sounds relatively normal until about 30 mph then it sounds almost like I have a flat tire or I'm running over a rumble strip, It's almost like a popping sound but a deeper sound.. I'm not sure how to describe it. The truck also vibrates violently when I reach speeds above 65-70 mph. Until about a week ago I could go 100 mph with no vibration whatsoever.
View 6 RepliesThis started yesterday. A Loud grinding type noise from the top of the engine. As soon as I touch the throttle the noise goes away. I checked the pulleys and TC and everything checks out. Sounds like it's coming from the HPOP gear area like a gear train noise. Maybe the additional oil pressure has something to do with the HPOP inside getting quiet.
View 7 RepliesWell, I last summer my fuel filter/ pump started squealing, and making vibrating noise, replaced the fuel filter changed the noise slightly, some times it would go away, sometimes the line going to the filter under the hood would vibrate, couple weeks ago truck warning light came on- "low fuel pressure warning" came on, hum... went out, came on a couple days later, then finally put me into limp mode, luckly only 1/2 mile from home... checked filter on frame/ tightness, it was tight, the pump on the filter housing was very noisey still, well, I figured 200 dollars cheaper than taking to ford....
I waited and pump arrived 3 days later, replaced it and low pressure warning still on, but pump was very quiet, and when I restarted low pressure warning and reduced power came on in driveway, hum.... I thought code was still in computer, I disconnected battery and turned headlights on to try and kill the code, started it and now the engine light came on, nothing else, and truck ran fine....hum.... went to autozone, and they pulled the code, low fuel rail pressure, p0087, guy said to drive and code should go off, truck runs fine. Drove truck a couple days and engine light went off, Truck runs great.......All is good.
I've got a loud, intermittent, swooshing, vibrating noise from the front left wheel area at highway speeds. I put a camera down there and saw that when there was noise, the front driveshaft and front left halfshaft were spinning. When they stopped spinning on their own, the noise stopped. Hubs are Warn Premium (gold) and unlocked. Unit bearing already replaced. What could it be?
View 10 RepliesOk just needing info, am I about to have any major issues as my truck is making a loud rhythmic squeaking noise when I move at any speed that is lower then what the speedometer will register (5mph or less) should I be concerned about the noise? It only occurred when I'm at very slow parking lot speeds....
View 8 Replieswhen i accelerate or let off the peddle I hear and aloud thug or dull bang. I've checked and greased all the u joints. Disconnected the carrier bearing and separated the drive shaft and greased it up. Still get the noise I have very little play in the carrier bearing but I don't think that's the problem. It sounds to me like might be at the transmission. What do y'all think it is?
View 2 RepliesMy truck is currently stock and recently started making a knocking noise louder than it usually does. I researched and have found the injectors can make a knocking noise when not performing correctly. I took it to a local shop who hooked it up to a snap on scan tool and ran some tests. It passed the Buzz test but continually failed the contribution test on cylinder 8. I'm going to go home and remove valve cover and unclip the injector to see if the noise goes away. I'm sure hoping it does as an injector by the looks of things is definitely the cheaper option. I'm scared because if I was listening to a gas powered truck and heard the sound my trucks making I would assume it was a lower end noise. My truck only has 148,000 miles....
View 14 RepliesTime to replace the aging vacuum lines to the 4wd and probably anywhere I can find the old rubber stuff.
What is the size of the lines and are they mostly the same?
I'd like to order a roll so I can make ones like the front hubs longer, stuff like that.
I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
Checked all fuses in fuse box, any other fuses or relays. The pump works when I jump it with a 12volt battery, so I know its good!
View 7 RepliesIn the past, I've had the common issues of vacuum leaks causing issues as evident from the defrost/ac and then finding busted vacuum lines. Changed out and everything fine for a few years. Now, i dont have 4wd but i dont have the tell tale vacuum leak signs. Also, even if i manually engage the hubs, still no 4wd.
I try to listen for the transfer case to engage when i switch from 2wd to 4wd, I think I hear it engaging, but to be honest the 7.3 makes so much racket Im not positive that Im hearing it, or at least not hearing it the way I "think" that i heard it in the past. I seem to recall a distinctive clunk when engaging, now its barely audible if at all. Now when I switch to 4-Low, there is the distinctive sound, and it does goes into low drive, just that its only 2wd-low, still no front wheel action.
I have never had any issues before other than the vacuum leaks, have never had reason to dig into the transfer case for any reason. The only time it has ever been touched was last summer when i had the BTS installed and all they did was remove and replace.
Do I finally need to either rebuild or replace my hubs? Is it possible not to have 4wd even with hubs manually engaged? Or is there an issue with the t-case? Or is there something else going on? I have access to a lift to attempt "driving" while all wheels off the ground, its just not mine and its a tight fit and a pain to get my truck on it.
I am thinking on installing a shutoff in the vacuum line that supplies the hubs so I can use 4LO for backing uphill with a trailer without having the hubs engage. Its either that or a switch to disable the PVH solenoid.
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