Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Overheating - Leaking Transmission Pan Gasket
Jun 15, 2015
I purchased the truck over a year ago and never had a problem with the transmission. The only issue was a leaking transmission pan gasket so I changed it put the same fluid that came out back in it since it looked brand new and didnt smell burnt or anything. So fast forward time and my girlfriend was driving the truck over the winter and lost control of the truck and spun it around and hit the front end of the truck into a rock wall.I have a weston bar on the front end that took the majority of the hit.
Shortly after the transmission would start to run warmer than normal. It would be 20 degrees outside and my transmission temp sensor would be reading around 140. Now that the weather is getting warmer the transmission is heating up a lot more. I took it to a guy to have him look at it and thought maybe the cooler was clogged or something like that and possibly put a larger cooler on it. He called me up a few days later and said their was a larger cooler already on it but it was not hooked up. It is a black one mounted on the front of the radiator. He said he cut the lines off of the old one and there was a slight bend in the one line so he cut a little higher than that line and then hooked up the cooler.
He told me he blew in the lines and there was no restrictions in it, i guess no pressure when we blue on the lines. I drove it home and the temp went higher than ever before up to 220. The cooler on the front was ice cold and trans pan was hot.I am starting to think maybe the bypass is bad and the fluid isn't getting to the cooler. The fluid is still pink and does not smell burnt so I want to fix the problem before any issues arise. The truck has 137000 miles on it. I have attached pictures of the cooler that he said was already there but not hooked up.
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I've never had a drop of fluid leak from my transmission until yesterday. I towed a very heavy trailer (10k or so with tons of tongue weight) about 300 miles and I got back and noticed a decent amount of fluid leaking. The transmission temperature never went over 160 on the drive. I know these transmissions tend to puke oil sometimes, but doesn't that only happen when they overheat, or would a very heavy trailer have the same symptom?
It appears the leak is coming from somewhere near the back of the pan around the gasket. More specifically, it seems the one bolt pictured below is leaking. All bolts are tight and the pan gasket was replaced about 6k ago with the last fluid flush.
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2002 F 350 7.3 4x4
Aftermarket gauge will climb to 250 after around town driving of an hour or so or multiple trips within the hour. Not towing. 160,000 miles on odometer. Changed trans fluid at 40,000 mile intervals. Most recently about 1500 miles ago. Most recent change using Mark K's method. Was getting fluid from rear port when I changed fluid. Blew out oil cooler and there did not seem to be a blockage as flow was sufficient.
Still overheating according to autometer trans gauge in test port. No codes retrieved using auto-ingenuity also O/ D light is not flashing. Would like to run torque converter slip test using AE according to wooden things method but TC slip desired and transmission gear ratio is not available under that name in live data meter. AE just updated to most recent version.
I purchased a new tranny oil bypass and will install soon. Also purchased a new 6.0 cooler to replace stocker but am hesitant to install if tranny is failing because I am concerned that the new cooler will just get some blockage from a potentially failing transmission and I will be buying a new cooler along with a BTS rebuild.
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I let a small leak that I thought was engine oil go too long it appears before checking the transmission which had still been working ok. I added a whole quart of Lucas and then another quart of Mercon so the level was pretty low. What to do next as I am about to leave Alaska and go back down the highway. Is my ZF trashed now? Still seems to work fine. Or is there a seal somewhere that I can change?
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I have a 2003 Excursion with a 7.3 and 240,000 miles. I have oil leaking around the transmission and the local diesel shop found the pedestal leaking. I installed a new pedestal from Rotomaster Part # A1382205N. It came with new O-rings and turbo bolts. I ran the truck and it began leaking again. Thinking I had pinched an O-ring I pulled it apart again but found nothing. I cleaned and inspected everything and reinstalled. Its still leaking. I used a straight edge to ensure the sealing surfaces were straight.
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My transmission on my 2002 7.3 4x4 is pouring fluid from somewhere above the rear of the pan. I thought it was the pan at first. I pulled it off and replaced the filter. After adding fluid while it was running for 4 or 5 minutes it started pouring again. It's not the pan. It's coming from above the pan somewhere. It won't leak unless it's running. Is there a place it can leak on top??
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Anyway I have a 2001 F250 7.3l 4X4 supercrew 8 foot bed. Have an upgraded turbo, 4" exhaust from turbo back, k&n cold intake. Has 207,000 miles on it, 198k from first owner, the rest from me. Anyway the transmission is a automatic R4100 tranny. Since I have owned it it would shift from 3rd to 4th on slight grade. It would continue to shift up and down till I got back on flat again, rpm's would not vary to much depending on the grade. So that problem continues and now today I was towing a 14' trailer with 3 wheelers on it and I smelled smoke. Pulled over and it was pouring oil from the bellhousing. I had no choice but to drive back home about 20 miles. I first stopped and poured 2qts of ATF fluid in and then babied her home. What are my options here, what I should be looking for to fix?
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I bought a 2003 F250 7.3 Powerstroke from a buddy of mine with 99,500 miles. It is a former Michigan truck and has some significant rust issues. Oil pan and drivers door will need to be replaced in the not too distant future. And probably bed rails later too.
In any case, I noticed a puddle of tranny fluid on the driveway when I got home today. The passenger side line at the fitting into the bottom of the radiator has corroded through. The fitting into the radiator is pretty rusty, and the line fitting is darn near destroyed. The line itself actually has a hole in it.
I see the same part numbers on different sites with different descriptions. Driver side here, passenger side there, inlet here, outlet there. For the same number.
As near as I can tell, Dorman number 624-059 is the outlet line from the tranny to the passenger side radiator fitting, and should be the part I need. Correct? Dorman 624-058 seems to be the line from the OTA auxiliary cooler and back to the tranny. What I cant find is the line from driver side radiator to the OTA cooler. That fitting is corroded bad too, and I may as well do both of them.
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My 2004 6.0 has lost some power and the head gasket is leaking into the coolant. How long can i continue to drive the truck before too much damage is done to the engine?
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Having issue with synthetic oil (Rotella T6) causing leaks in the 6.7? I'm getting ready for my first oil change and I don't want to have an issue like I did with my 7.3 leaking from the oil pan gasket when I used synthetic.
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So, I just got my turbo back from my pal Ruben at SoCal Porting (does good work fast and inexpensive) and, I have a question about the exhaust housing with the EBPV.
Is there a gasket that goes between the turbine housing and the adapter that the down pipe mounts to? And, if so, what is the part number for it? If it's steel to steel cool. If not, I'd prefer to put the OEM gasket in there versus permatex or something similar.
Pic of the compressor housing with a little port work....
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I LOVE my Super Duty and with only 15k on it (have a company truck) plan on keeping it for a long time. I've had an EGR Delete and new Oil Cooler along with some misc things done to the engine and turbo, about 6g's worth. Now my mechanic at NCB is telling me that the reason I'm loosing coolant is that my head gaskets are leaking. I'm looking at another 5-7 grand which is a no go for me. I'm thinking of doing the work myself, especially since I've seen where i don't have to remove the body to do it.
Okay, here is the question, I've been having a hard time finding a comprehensive list of the parts I should be getting to do the job. Looking for a list or link on what I need to do it correctly and anything I might want to do while my engine is apart so I don't have to do this again?
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Alright I got a '99 7.3 Superduty F-250 I have been overheating while pulling my 1985 Camper weights around 6K. I put a new thermostat in still overheated.
Scenario, Rpms 2500-2700 top end trying to keep fluids moving. OD to D to 2 to 1. Run in between 1 and 2 basic on the up and flat of the road.
6-8% grade engine gets hot pull over and let it cool put it in 4 wheel works a little bit 4 wheel at least keep the tranny around 180. I only have a tranny gauge, I'm using the dash temp gauge for the engine.
What I'm I doing wrong or over looking.
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I was driving on a short business trip and I noticed what I thought at first was clutch smell, and then I realized I had a brake overheating. I pulled over and the front right rotor and hub were very hot. The caliber not so much. I let it cool while I was at the meeting. About 1 1/2 hours later I jacked the truck up to see if the bearings felt bad. Seemed fine so I drove home trying not to use the brakes and the heat did not return. I replace the caliber with one from Ford, but the only lines I could find were from CARQUEST and they are made by Raybestos. I am assuming that these lines are made in China.
I have been looking for some braided SS lines, but can't find any for a 2 wheel drive dually with 4 wheel ABS. Where I can order some better lines???
I hated my old 1994 F-350 that had those Metal/rubber pins, they would mess up and overheat also, I thought that my 2000 would not have this problem, I was wrong.
FYI, about a month ago I replaced the rear pads, and changed all the brake fluid with Valvoline synthetic DOT 3. I installed Akebono pads on the rear and just today Akebono on the problem front side. Will change out line and pads on driver side later this week. I hope I got if fixed.
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Looking for a write-up on replacing the seals on the hose that leaks at the power steering pump? I replace them once but may of over tightened them. I pour in atf and see it dripping on drivers side of power steering pump. Can I just use regular o rings?
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I did the extended seal kit and non-serviceable plug on my HPOP and now the CEL is on. It is throwing the below codes. The truck in all reality runs fine and even a little better on a cold start than before resealing, just the CEL is on.
P1280
P1209
P1282
P1212
P1211
I cleaned the IPR when it was out when I put new seals on it but could it go bad by just taking it apart? The ICP and IPR are definitely plugged in. The truck is all stock, no chips.
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I have my 2002 Ford F450 7.3 diesel in the shop right now. Early story is it is leaking in the turbo or there is a problem with the turbo. Last summer I took the truck cross country and 500 miles from home I was gunning it to get on the highway and it started acting up (poor excelleration). And it started smoking and leaking oil. I crippled it home at lower speeds. Now that it's in the shop they told me about the turbo but have to keep it till tomorrow for a closer look. My question is what else should I consider since they have it in. I mean should they replace the turbo while their at it or any other parts that make sense since they are already into it?
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So just a couple hundred miles ago I changed the oil and oil filter in my 99 7.3 ... It wasn't till today I noticed an oil/coolant leak ... It is on the driver side of the engine by the oil cooler ... "It isn't the oil cooler leaking already checked"... It seems to be behind the water pump to the driver side of the hpop... Where the thermostat is it is like right behind that but I can't think of what it is .... Its not the oil pump leaking ... It is leaking down and being blown back across my oil pan and oil filter... That is the oil cooler it has residue but its not the problem
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Initially had indications of a leak under the wheel arch on the drivers side.
About 3-4 months back replaced both PS lines and the leak stopped - briefly (maybe a couple a weeks).
Now the leak is back, but what's interesting is I lose more ATF fluid on a single long haul run than I do running round town for 3 weeks. I can't work out where the leak is coming from to identify what else to replace - short of just buying a pump and reservoir and replacing them as I've already done the hoses.
My turbo cooler pipe was hard up against the old PS pipe where it entered the side of the reservoir until I did the replacement hoses. Now I have it out the way but I'm wondering if it's caused some unseen wear or damage.
If I just do the pump to see if that works are the reman units any good out of Autozone or O'reilly's?
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So my understanding is that if your turbo is leaking oil, you either need to rebuild it or get a new turbo cause the one you have is shot.
I have some oil leaking, but it's not a ton. One one of my buddies was telling me that it's possible that the amount that is leaking is normal due to the PCV (Pressure Control Valve) system, or something like that. Here are a few shots of the turbo, as well as the boots that are leading up to the turbo.
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I have a 7.3 and I think it's leaking oil out of the HPOP but I'm really not positive.
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