Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Oil Temp Drops Like Rock On Decel Timing Effect?
Feb 4, 2017
Well I just completed a complete refresh of the fuel system. New injectors, IDM , UVC and UVCH, and glow plugs. (All Ford Parts)
I had my AE software running on the last drive and noticed the oil temp is quite erratic. The odd thing was, when I left off the pedal, it would drop 100 degrees. Once I got back into the fuel, the temp came right back up where I thought it should be (140-160) puling a 7000# Enclosed 8.5wide car trailer, in 30 degree weather.
The truck ran OK but seemed down slightly on power. I know the oil temp affects SOI timing, but what degree and how often does it sample, to make timing changes? I found a new one at an Oreillys and put it in, but no change. Wires do not seem to change OHM reading when wiggling them.
I will post pics from recording as soon as my kid brings my laptop back.
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Coolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
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New to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
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2002 e350 7.3 diesel transmission... At 7 miles the speedo began bouncing and truck drops into second. Parked it 30 minutes, stated up no problem until 8 miles and the it started again. Have checked most of the electrical, changed speed sensor and transmission position sensor. Only error code 2-3 rd gear mismatch.
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I just bought a 99 f250 super duty with 6 speed and it has clutch problem the clutch pedal goes about 1/3 of way down then drops to the floor and stays. I pulled slave cylinder and it has just as much resistance as a new one. my other thought was a spring internally in transmission. any other thoughts or do I just need to replace the clutch?
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I have a coolant leak from behind my timing cover found while doing a coolant system pressure test. I do not want to remove the engine. Looking for info on successful cover install with the engine still in the truck?
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So I'm getting ready to pull my engine to redo my timing cover.. my engine has over 320000 miles on it and it runs strong, dyno'd 402 hp at the wheels recently.. I was considering dropping a reman in since im pulling the engine anyway... I heard you can test for blow by buy sitting your oil cap over the spout and seeing if the cap blows off.. well the engine tilts downward in the back so the cap just slides off but in the dark when i shine a flashlight you can see the fumes just billowing out... how do i know if this is too much... what else can i do EASILY to see if my engine has issues before i start taring it down?
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Is this common? No coolant in the oil-YET........
Any way to fix it without pulling the cover?
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I notice my trans temp gets really hot fast. For instance just moving my trailer from front of my house to side yard makes temp go to 250. Without any load and driving a couple miles it does the same thing. It's been doing it since I installed the trans temp gauge just trying to figure out what's up.
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I've searched, and gone back through my computer history and can't find it. I have seen a thread here which Mark contributed too which said what the max temps were and for how long etc. I know book is 230 and optimum is around 165 but there was some degree of play in that.
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Noticed a while back that the plug for what I assume is the air intake temp sensor is looped. I assume because I can't find the sensor anywhere. how critical is the sensor? The new S&B has a hole for it so it's either gonna need a new sensor or a plug. The local autozone has one for 16.99.
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For some reason my OH display decided to show 140 deg F when its 40 deg F outside. Continues to show 140 all the time now regardless of out side temp. In case its the related outside temp sensor sending unit, where it is exactly on an 02. Unless someone has solution may try changing that out to see if that is the problem?
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I drove my 99.5 7.3 F-350 1 mile to a friends and hooked it to the OBDII to get a code for my abs light.it had not been drove all day. we hooked into the pcm and he noticed the temp at 375* it was idling. is this right he didnt think it should have been that high???Will the engine coolant temp sensor, if it were bad,show a high temp of 375*? On the OBDII it showed a temp of 375* .....
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I wanted to specifically ask about the block heater though. Since I bought this truck I never was able to start the truck without plugging it in. Now that it's not running I'm thinking much more about the block heater.
Is 56 too low for this old truck to start? What temp should a block heater have the oil temp as seen by AE be?
I live in the southwest so it's not very cold here. plugging in the heater was even required in the summer unless the truck had been running. What kinds of engine trouble would require being plugged in in warm conditions?
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I will start off with saying I am posting this for my dad. His truck is a 1999 F350 crew cab DRW 4x4 auto 7.3 with about 189K miles on it. He is leaving wednesday on a cross country road trip pulling a 40FT 5th wheel (no idea the weight but the thing is huge). He has glowshift gauges installed, one of which is the trans temp gauge. I believe the transmissions on these are 4R100, but I am not positive about that, but I'm sure many people here will know. He just told me that he had the mechanic he goes to replace the pan gasket on the transmission because it leaked quite a bit, just as a precaution. He also had them replace the brake booster as it was leaking inside by the brake pedal. When he got it back, he said he was driving it, and the temperature started going up to I believe 220 degrees not pulling anything. He said since he installed the gauges it has been between 180-190, and it jumped to 220.
What this could be. I have read that the TFT sensor can cause this issue, but it would throw a code and possibly go into limp mode. He has no check engine light and it was driving just fine. So the temperature is just all of a sudden high. Fluid level is fine, was checked after about an hour of driving, is red, and doesn't smell bad. I am suspecting the temperature isn't actually hotter, so there is another issue. It's only a big deal now because in a few days he will be dragging a huge 5th wheel behind him.
Last year, we towed some pile of crap 5th wheel down to our city for somebody with his truck, and we had to pull over halfway back because it started to smell like something burning. We think it was the trailer, as the brakes were questionable on them. When we got it to the people we were delivering it to, when we left, it wouldn't shift passed 2nd gear. He only lived a few miles from there, so he drove it home, parked it, then went out the next day and it was fine. He had the fluid flushed later and that issue hasn't come back since. No other work was performed on it since the pan gasket a few days ago. I am not sure if they are related being a year apart, but figured I'd mention it anyways.
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Plugged in my ScanGaugeII on a whim, it's usually on my 6.5 Suburban daily drivers, but was curious to monitor a few things on the 7.3
Noticed this right away, coolant temp reading a solid -40*F and never budging.
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I've read some treads on the temp gauge sending unit but I'm a little foggy on where to look for my problem. I just purchased a 2000 F250 7.3, temp gauge not working. It has a new sending unit. I read some threads about the voltage at the plug but I have no voltage on either side of the plug. The way I understand it red/white wire goes to the battery. Is there a fuse between them and which one is it? and if fuse is ok is there a cronic problem that someone might know of that I can look for?
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I was going to order a ECT gauge and was wondering where to mount the sensor. I have already used the port under the T-stat for the coolant filter. The gauge sensor is a 1/8 NPT. Would the block drains be a good location, or is there another location that will work.
I know the coolant filter housing has a port, but I would prefer the sensor be on the motor.
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I've dealt with this issue many times before but this time I am at the last straw. I cannot deal with squealing brakes!! I have tried OEM, napa brand, auto zone and everything is fine for about a month into it and than they start to squeal. I always use the high temp ceramic brake lube on all brake parts. I have cut rotors, changed rotors, changed pads, prayed to the brake gods but nothing has worked. I was curious to see what everyone is using out there and maybe there is one brand that everyone is choosing over the others out there and having great result.
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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1998 f150 4.6 4x4 auto 180k .... Runs 100% other than a strange and inconsistent overheating issue.
On cold startup truck will warm up. Then the temp gauge drops to practically 0. After 15-20 seconds gauge shoots up to max and then falls back to normal after 15-20 seconds. Then it'll go back to driving normally. At some point it pukes.
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