Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Oil Leaks - Lots Of Slop While Turning Steering Wheel?
Sep 9, 2017
Steering wise, it seems very likely that I'm due for a steering box. Lots of slop when I turned the wheels back and forth. Also, as per the seller, it seems like the the wheel bearings and ball joints are in good shape.
The sway bar end link bushings are smoked, so those need replacing. As for oil leaks. I'm thinking it would be best to pull the motor. It looks like this engine has had the pan off, but I do believe I have a front pain leak. The crank case breather is going into the intake which is annoying. And I believe the intercooler is full of oil, explaining the mystery oil leak by the passenger side intercooler boot.
Couldn't see any oil in the valley of the motor but I see oil coming down the down pipe of the exhaust, out the bell housing of the motor and dripping from a weep hole maybe 8 inches down the transmission as well? Seeing as to how I'm not sure what clutch I have, it make sense to pull the trans. And If I have the dreaded oil pan leak and a intercooler full of oil, why not just pull the motor? I'd also like to trim out the front panel for 05+ head lights and clean up the wiring on this thing. Found a cheesy electric compressor for a small horn. Sounds like a clown horn, no kidding.
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2001 F350 XL... Fitting on PS pump broke and I lost PS and PB with fluid everywhere. Replaced the hose with a new one from Autozone and I have no noticeable leaks.
I know I lost more than a quart but I could only add less than a quart (Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF). I'm also getting a whine from the steering wheel when I turn stop to stop. The power steering is back and there are no leaks (that I see) but the brake pedal is mushy. I've pumped and turned stop to stop for a while. Do I have to bleed the system like I'm doing a fluid flush? I hate to waste the synthetic fluid that I changed about two years ago.
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While chasing rattles I found my front driveline has a tiny bit of slop where the splines go into the yoke. (There is a bellows seal there just like the rear driveline so I am assuming it is a splined shaft into a yoke). Pounding on it with my fist there is a definite rattle and grabbing both halves you can feel a slight bit of play while twisting it back and forth. The rattle sounds a lot like the one I am hearing when I hit small bumps. Is this normal or should there be zero slop in that joint? By the way the u joints feel and look solid.
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I started noticing a problem with my steering on my 2000 Excursion, a couple of days ago. when I make left or right turn, the wheels seem to want to continue in the direction of the turn even as I am straightening up the steering wheel. I have to over compensate on the steering wheel to straighten the wheels it seems. It does it when I make a left or right turn, but seems to be worse when turning left. Also I noticed that if I'm driving on pavement that has ruts from heavy traffic, the front end seems to pull to one side then the other.
I've had the truck for 7 years and this is the first time this has happened to it. Is it an alignment problem or is there something else that I need to consider? I jacked it up today to check the tie rods and drag link, everything seemed ok
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Have a pretty good running (I think), 2000 7.3 with 151K that has always been pretty noisy. Lots of clatter. I amjust wondering if there's an easy way to tell if I may have injector issues starting to come up.
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Alright. 99 Ford F-250 4x4 Ext Cab 287,000 miles. I know she is getting a little long in the tooth but this issue is new within the last month. It does seem to be better when it has been plugged in. On start up I smoke out the neighborhood. Blueish/White smoke, also sounds like it's missing on a couple injectors. Doesn't matter if you cycle the glowplugs a good long time. No luck. Glow plugs are 1 1/2 years old along with injector o rings. Only thing new is I changed from Rotella T-6 to Delo 5W40 Syn, but it was doing it before the switch as well. I tested my glowplugs relay and that is working fine. Could I have lost a UVCH? Fuel filter six months ago or so.
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Well, today i had my first bout with tranny issues of any kind either before or after my BTS installation. After sitting all day at work, heading home, the shift i guess from 2-3 at about 40-50 mph shifted really hard, BANG. Heard a whirring/whining sound, lots of slipping with the TC. After a lil ways it was like it was in neutral.
Coasted to stop. Went thru the gears from park, rev, and drive about 3 times, got movement each time. Got out, looked for obvious, no fluids or linkages apparent. Drove thru town about 25-30 mph. Felt like it was "hunting" and shifted like a manual grinding gears. Got on highway and no overdrive and im thinking no high gear either.
Push button on shifter light changes, but no change in operation. Running 60 and rpms are turning 2700ish. Still "hunting". But while hunting it isn't wide rpm swings, just a small amount, not wide enough for a gear shift. I am thinking that its torque converter constantly engaging and disengaging.
While letting out of gas it coasts down with TC still locked up all the way down to about 1100 rpm before unlocking. Then I start seeing the OD light flashing. Ok, classic wire chafe in steering column. But it doesn't always flash, only sometimes. And fuses are good. Temps never got above 150 during this 50 mile drive.
So i get home (and its frigging dark already, i hate that this time of year) and I log on and start reading up on this again to refresh my memory. I had called Brian over at BTS when it happened as i was going down the road, he was busy at time. He called me after i got home and i explained and he talked me thru some things. Wanted me to pull the codes and get back with him tomorrow. I did that and the screen shot is below. I will talk more with Brian tomorrow.
But during some of my reading i think i came across some others that had similar trans codes and the issue ended up being the alternator. Alternator ? For trans issues? Is that right? I guess stranger things have happened. I have a high output alt waiting to be installed but haven't yet. I guess we shall see. Brian thinks it something telling the TC and trans to act that way. Doesn't think anything mechanical, yet, leaning towards electrical.
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I can take one finger and spin my steering wheel full left and right. There is no Resistance at all. Very scary to drive. Would it be the steering box. I am supposed to be at a military school tomorrow need to fix asap.
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Initially had indications of a leak under the wheel arch on the drivers side.
About 3-4 months back replaced both PS lines and the leak stopped - briefly (maybe a couple a weeks).
Now the leak is back, but what's interesting is I lose more ATF fluid on a single long haul run than I do running round town for 3 weeks. I can't work out where the leak is coming from to identify what else to replace - short of just buying a pump and reservoir and replacing them as I've already done the hoses.
My turbo cooler pipe was hard up against the old PS pipe where it entered the side of the reservoir until I did the replacement hoses. Now I have it out the way but I'm wondering if it's caused some unseen wear or damage.
If I just do the pump to see if that works are the reman units any good out of Autozone or O'reilly's?
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1999 7.3 misses when starting it cold (first start of the day even when outside temps were around 20 deg C ). It has a noticeable miss and lots of white smoke. After warming up it runs perfect. I changed the GPR and tested all glow plugs, 3 bad and one weak one all replaced. Now that it is cold out it still misses when first started, even if left plugged in.
It will start and run for approx 3 seconds perfectly smooth then it starts to miss and idle speed slows down. on one occasion I went to start it after sitting 10 plus hours plugged in and it started then missed and slowly died. Would not re start, It was firing and smoking but not enough to get going again. Went back the next day and it started and ran fine for a few weeks. Did the same thing to me yesterday, started and then petered out and died and this time it will not re start after 2 days of trying on a couple occasions. I changed out the CPS with no luck.
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7.3 auto, starts and idles OKAY, drives fine if you have a light foot but trying to go faster than 50mph or more than 2000 rpm and the whole thing has an anxiety attack. Starts sputtering and popping, lots of grey smoke when it runs rough rough, let off the throttle and it MIGHT behave nicely again.
New lift pump, cleaned the pickup tube, fuel bowl fills nice and fast, just had my edge attitude juice tuner removed since it was causing similar issues that went away for the last 2 months, changed my IPR and CPS (had a mechanic test everything when the tuner was taken out, all injectors buzzed good, sensors good)
When this first happened after the initial problem with the tuner was resolved, it did throw the CEL, but I have since been able to get it to come back on, and my buddies OBD2 scanner wasn't even registering my truck when I hooked up... Dare I say PCM is to blame?
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Having searched I believe that I need to remove two torx screws from the back of the wheel to remove the air bag. These have that damned protrusion in the middle so I'll have to find and buy a torx driver just for that job. What size is it?
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Just bought a 1999 F250 7.3 cab and a half standard 266k miles. The steering wheel is really loose. Not loose as in turning the wheel to turn the tires but like moment up and down and side to side. Are there bearings to replace?
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So I have a 1999.5 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again. Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again.
I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal? The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.
What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?
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Just recently i have noticed my truck acting up. the other day at about 10 to 20 mph i made a 90 degree turn and noticed my steering wheel wouldn't return but i had to bring it back. than this morning the same thing happened. I made a 90 degree left hand turn and it happened again. the truck wanted to keep going left but i kept turning right. it almost feels like my power steering pump is going out. The pump was changed about 4 years 90k miles ago. I'm curious to see what others have to say. What could it be????
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Ok, so I leave the fire station this morning headed home and my steering felt weird. About 1/2 mile from home I hit a bump and my drivers side front wheel started making a screeching noise. I stopped and looked out the window and it appeared fine. I limped home and as I pull in the driveway, I lost all my steering. I look under the truck and this is what I found.
Not sure what to do. This is my daily driver and neither of my 2 mechanic friends will answer their phones.
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I switched to red ELC back in September , bought a billet thermostat housing , and did the "dual alternator " upper hose. now i seem to be getting small leaks around my hose connections and thermostat housing. I don't have any pics yet but I'll get some. It looks like it barley leaked. Then dried up
I re tightened everything again but no difference. My coolant level hasn't dropped or Anything that's why I haven't been too concerned. Here's when it first started happening
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I just bought a 99 f150. Its in great shape only 65000 on it but there is a hissing swooshing sound when turning the wheel... not really any brake sounds. The truck has been maintained and I dont see any leeks in the ps system hoses. I didn't know anything about the atf fluid in the truck... and I haven't added either ps or atf fluid to it. I'm wondering if that is maybe something the dealer i bought it from did. or maybe one of the shops the previous owner did. Would ps fluid cause these kinds of sounds? Do I need a flush of the system.. How to do that.
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have a f550 with a hpop res leak on the backside and wonder if this is in fact under any pressure when functioning since it has o rings on it as well.
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Starting about a year ago, "sometimes" when I step on the brakes and am turning the steering wheel, I loose the power steering. I took it to Ford and they said that this is a a known issue but they didn't say what it would take to fix it. Because this problem is intermittent it is very hard to get this fixed unless the mechanic can experience and verify the problem for himself...
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe 3.5L with 85K miles. TB, WP and all belts changed at 75K. Have had this whine noise when I turn right, very high pitch noise. On top of this there is now Power Steering fluid leaking from the reservoir and base and brackets are full of fluid... Needless to say I assume it is the reservoir seals giving up but why the noise only when I turn right? No noise when I turn left.
What could it be? Also where can I find parts online that are cheaper than the stealership? I called them and they quoted me $72.00 for this piece of plastic!!
What else should I change? There is also some "oil/fluid" coming down a pressure hose but I believe this is due to the oil dripping from the reservoir...
Any manuals I could use to view this? I bought the Haynes manual and it's worthless!
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