I've developed a large oil leak in the valley. My guess is the EBPV. What's it take to fix the leak if I DONT remove the valve?
There's a good chance I'll just take it to my works fleet dept and tell them to fix it.
I've had a minor oil leak since I got my truck back from having the EGR, head studs, head gaskets, oil cooler done. It's gotten quite a bit worse lately to the point that I'm going to have to fix it. I added some UV dye and traced it up to the engine valley. All the leakage seems to be toward the back of the valley. Is there a common component that is prone to leaking in the valley that could be a starting point?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 in the shop for a fuel leak. Truck has 208,000 miles on it. Leaking fuel into the valley. I took the upper and lower intake off and cleaned all the fuel up so I could see and with the key on there is fuel coming out from the bottom of the CP4 area where it mounts to the front cover. Looks like there is an o-ring between the front cover and the CP4 but wouldn't that o-ring be for sealing oil and not fuel? I'm confused as to how this works. Truck runs great with no check engine light. It's not a fast leak but a drip drip drip from the bottom of the engine once it fills up the valley enough to run off the back of the engine.
View 14 RepliesI have a 03 F-350, 7.3L. There is a slow oil leak that only leaks after I've run the truck. In other words, it doesn't just sit and leak overnight. I'll park it after running, and the next morning I'll notice a small pool of oil, approximately 2" in diameter. The leak appears to be coming from the oil pan area. I degreased the entire oil pan area to get a better visual of where the leak is coming from. I can see oil trailing down the front of the oil pan and the rear of the oil pan. Does this sound like the gasket? Or, what else could it be? I'm praying its not as bad as I think and need to replace the gasket.
View 3 RepliesThis was briefly discussed as part of another thread. It appears that I have a boost leak when I hit roughly 24.5 psi. The leak seems to stay for a few minutes after showing itself, but then I'm able to produce boosts up to 24.5 again. For example, on my 20-mile/30-minute drive to work, I can make this leak "appear" four or five times, maybe more if I try. Does this self-healing leak ring a bell? I haven't done a boost leak test yet, but I'm leaning towards the RTV sealant at the OEM plenums due to the self-healing attribute.
To add a little info to this thread, I recently installed an S&B intake, 4" exhaust, bellowed up-pipes, RR billet wheel, RR CAC intercooler boot kit with new clamps, RDP reinforcing plenum inserts, AIH delete plug, and I removed the wastegate solenoid along with the red and green tubes. I don't have any gauges, but I recently began monitoring the boost using FORScan. Before all of this, I don't think I was producing enough boost to cause this leak, and I had no way to monitor for this leak.
Brothers of fte. I reach out. Tonight it appears I had a fuel bomb under the hood.
I've been chasing a fuel leak. Replaced fuel drain orings but one screw seemed to not snug up. Also the plastic was so brittle I couldn't replace the inner oring. Installed new valve worked great. A week later noticed new slow drips. Replaced fuel filter. Again good for two weeks.
Tonight pulled into the driveway hopped out immediately smelled diesel. Steaming from under hood. Popped the hood and everything was wet. Moved her to the street and it clattered like I was running out of fuel. Still half a tank though. Hosed of the drive. Popped hood again fired it up easily. Started fine. No noticeable leak. But everything is wet from fuel. Insulation on hood was saturated. When I open the hood fuel ran out of the insulation into the air intake. Batteries were wet!
Alright what gives? Do I have to be under load to see this leak?
Do I have to remove my fuel filter and bowl to attempt a repair on my HPOP leak?
View 6 RepliesI just noticed a small leak (red PS fluid) coming from the rear of my hydroboost in the truck (while working on my shift tube replacement this past weekend). The carpet is not wet, but there is a drip hanging on the rear end of the HB waiting to start leaking itself on the carpet. Also, there appear to be no issues with either braking or steering -- all is smooth, firm, steady, and quiet.
I have nearly 290K miles on the truck, replaced the Master Cylinder probably 8 years ago at roughly 150K miles. I no longer spend nearly as much time on the road as I used to (probably 8K miles per year now compared to a previous eight-year long run at 18-20K miles per year.
Questions.
1) Should I go ahead and replace the HB before it gets worse (I don't know how fast the fade when they start this process)?
2) If I replace the HB, should I go ahead and proactively replace the MC along with it since I'll have the whole system wide open?
The leak drains into the first valley of the block. This is after a cleaning and about 300 miles driving. I thought it may be the IPR but, it's looking pretty dry:
Some more pics .....
The HPOP line fittings are dry too. Where else do there the HPOP's tend to dribble a leak of oil from?
I moved my truck before I noticed exactly where it was coming from then after ward looked in the engine compartment. I had a puddle under the passenger side looks like the hoses going into the passenger glove box area (because I saw a few drops on them). The liquid is silvery. Any guess what fluid this is or where it might be leaking.
The antifreeze doesn't seem to be getting lower. I drove it yesterday for about 30 minutes and no crazy leaks.
I own a e1999 Ford F350 7.3 4x4 with a Garrett GTP38R turbo. I have been having issues with very little power and pulled an CEL of P0221. I know it's for the APS and have been trying to trouble shoot it as a new APS has not fixed the problem. However, while working on that I just noticed an oil leak appear. I tracked it down and can visibly see it leaking out the top of the passenger side exhaust manifold in two places. It is seeping out the top. Is oil supposed to even be running through here like that?
I recently replaced my up pipes with the newer style bellowed ones. While I had the turbo off I replaced all the o-rings top and bottom and did the EBPV delete on the pedestal. I have been having very little power and cannot the truck over 5-10 MPH and stays at low RPM's so I originally thought it was the leaky up pipes. Those were fixed along with fuel pressure checks which came back good. I then pulled the P0221 code finally. While I had the turbo off I inspected it and it did spin freely and had no side to side play in it.
What was unusual to me was there was a small pooling of oil in the turbo when I took it off. I know the CCV goes through here so some oil is normal. Also, when I was diagnosing the up pipe leak I could see a small amount of oil spraying out the blown donut gasket along with the exhaust gases. I don't think that is normal.
Is there an internal seal in the turbo that can go bad causing oil to spill into my exhaust and possibly leak at the exhaust manifold? Or do I have an internal oil leak from somewhere else?
I tried a steel with rubber insert washer, but it still leaks. I might have overtightened or something. It seemed good for a while. Who has a solution for this leak?
View 14 RepliesI am trying to track down a leak ..... pretty bad one. I just filled with oil truck fired right up and it didnt appear to leak until I turned the motor off then its pouring down passenger side around the starter and into the drain pan. Any clue?? I am thinking pedestal does it usually leak more as the motor is turned off...
View 14 RepliesI have a 95 powerstroke as a daily so I realize the common oil leak issues and where to start. Today at work I came in to our 2002 7.3 with a puddle of oil underneath of it. It's a service truck I'm the mechanic and I honestly after filling it could not get it to leak I tried everything. A guy had come in and started it after sitting for the holiday and it sat and idled and leaked probably 2-3 quarts. They shut it down and I came in I added probably 1 1/2 gallons to get it full again. Has almost 300k after I had gotten there they had already warmed the truck up and it had cooled back down. It's coming from the driver side (axle frame rail and leaf spring) are all covered in oil but no obvious signs when shut off idling under load anything of an oil leak. I tried everything to get it to leak and not a drop.
View 14 RepliesNew up pipe and manifold gasket time!
Massive exhaust leak.. Likely the reason for my 5psi boost.
Wish I had the funds for headers but on the up side, no broken bolts!
I've got a water leak in to the cab of my truck. I have a 1999 with the Super cab. I'm pretty sure it is at the back wall of the cab. There are two rectangular (I guess) vents that duct to the out side. The floorboard is not wet, but the very bottom of the carpet on the passenger side is. What are these vents for? We've had a lot of rain, I figure that's where the water is coming from. What is an easy fix this.
View 4 RepliesFixed my 2000 7.3 F350 4x4 pedestal 0 ring leaks a month or 2 ago. Nothing on ground.
Ck'd my oil last couple days. Seems now 2 qts. low.
What might cause "oil use/burning"? Probably over about 1K miles or so.
In the past, I've had the common issues of vacuum leaks causing issues as evident from the defrost/ac and then finding busted vacuum lines. Changed out and everything fine for a few years. Now, i dont have 4wd but i dont have the tell tale vacuum leak signs. Also, even if i manually engage the hubs, still no 4wd.
I try to listen for the transfer case to engage when i switch from 2wd to 4wd, I think I hear it engaging, but to be honest the 7.3 makes so much racket Im not positive that Im hearing it, or at least not hearing it the way I "think" that i heard it in the past. I seem to recall a distinctive clunk when engaging, now its barely audible if at all. Now when I switch to 4-Low, there is the distinctive sound, and it does goes into low drive, just that its only 2wd-low, still no front wheel action.
I have never had any issues before other than the vacuum leaks, have never had reason to dig into the transfer case for any reason. The only time it has ever been touched was last summer when i had the BTS installed and all they did was remove and replace.
Do I finally need to either rebuild or replace my hubs? Is it possible not to have 4wd even with hubs manually engaged? Or is there an issue with the t-case? Or is there something else going on? I have access to a lift to attempt "driving" while all wheels off the ground, its just not mine and its a tight fit and a pain to get my truck on it.
Need to identify possible oil leak location. Went through 6 quarts of oil in a couple months. Moderate oil drip on the driveway. Ford dealership said the leak was definitely from one of the high pressure oil hoses but that didn't fix the entire problem. Took it back to the dealership and they diagnosed the problem as "LH HP Oil A Head Leaking Replaced" installed a new elbow fitting. Still leaking.... They are trying to be conservative in their approach however the leak is starting to become an irritant Just want the problem solved. Any probabilities where the oil leak could be coming from?
'99 F350 SD 7.3L, 225,000 mi, 4x4, XCAB
I have developed an oil leak from the bottom of the front crank shaft (front of the motor). How hard of a repair is this? any links to any tutorials? Should I even try this myself? Any special tools required?
View 14 RepliesI have an oil leak under the flywheel cover that gets worse as it runs.It is dripping directly off the middle of pan below where the torque converter attaches and as i said it gets much worse when its running which makes me think rear main seal....
View 14 Replies