I've had my early 99 f350 7.3L for a lil while now. Starting to see few problems surfacing. while doing my weekly fluid levels found oil in coolant and after looking around found oil covering bottom of driver side engine. As far as i can see it looks like oil cooler leaking from front side.. Should i just replace oil cooler or rebuild?
View 4 RepliesI bought a 2003 F250 7.3 Powerstroke from a buddy of mine with 99,500 miles. It is a former Michigan truck and has some significant rust issues. Oil pan and drivers door will need to be replaced in the not too distant future. And probably bed rails later too.
In any case, I noticed a puddle of tranny fluid on the driveway when I got home today. The passenger side line at the fitting into the bottom of the radiator has corroded through. The fitting into the radiator is pretty rusty, and the line fitting is darn near destroyed. The line itself actually has a hole in it.
I see the same part numbers on different sites with different descriptions. Driver side here, passenger side there, inlet here, outlet there. For the same number.
As near as I can tell, Dorman number 624-059 is the outlet line from the tranny to the passenger side radiator fitting, and should be the part I need. Correct? Dorman 624-058 seems to be the line from the OTA auxiliary cooler and back to the tranny. What I cant find is the line from driver side radiator to the OTA cooler. That fitting is corroded bad too, and I may as well do both of them.
2003 F250 7.3... I noticed a water leak dripping down onto passenger side front leaf spring. I saw this before but attributed it to the AC (which kicks butt) but haven't used the AC. No scent to the clear fluid, temps all look good. Running fine. Where does the AC discharge go? Could AC be on (not on AC but set in blue zone on dial)? Reservoir looks ok but could e small volume of drips.
View 12 RepliesSo just a couple hundred miles ago I changed the oil and oil filter in my 99 7.3 ... It wasn't till today I noticed an oil/coolant leak ... It is on the driver side of the engine by the oil cooler ... "It isn't the oil cooler leaking already checked"... It seems to be behind the water pump to the driver side of the hpop... Where the thermostat is it is like right behind that but I can't think of what it is .... Its not the oil pump leaking ... It is leaking down and being blown back across my oil pan and oil filter... That is the oil cooler it has residue but its not the problem
View 5 RepliesSo a dead thermostat forced me to drain the coolant in my E350 7.3L. I noticed the previous owner had green coolant in the van so I decided to do a flush and put in the right coolant. I used Shell Rotella ELC. Well, I noticed after coming home the other day that the van was leaking coolant, upon inspection I noticed its now leaking from the water pump, then today the drain valve sprang a leak! What the HECK is going on!? Is it possible that the seals were shocked when I changed the coolant? Not looking forward to doing a water pump replacement on an E350... sure is crammed under the hood.
View 9 RepliesMy buddy install a BPD air/oil oil cooler in his 2003 F250 last week and now there is coolant pouring out the tail pipe. I haven't seen it but he tells me there is quite a bit coming out. It wasn't doing this before we installed the BPD oil cooler. Normally I would say bad EGR cooler but his EGR is deleted. This is the 3rd BPD cooler I've put in and this is the first time I've had any issues after the install. The install went smooth other than we broke the radiator and had to install a new one. I feel bad cause I'm hoping it wasn't something I caused but I just can't think of anything I did during this install that would cause coolant to be getting into the exhaust. He just had it towed to the local Ford dealership.
View 3 RepliesInitially had indications of a leak under the wheel arch on the drivers side.
About 3-4 months back replaced both PS lines and the leak stopped - briefly (maybe a couple a weeks).
Now the leak is back, but what's interesting is I lose more ATF fluid on a single long haul run than I do running round town for 3 weeks. I can't work out where the leak is coming from to identify what else to replace - short of just buying a pump and reservoir and replacing them as I've already done the hoses.
My turbo cooler pipe was hard up against the old PS pipe where it entered the side of the reservoir until I did the replacement hoses. Now I have it out the way but I'm wondering if it's caused some unseen wear or damage.
If I just do the pump to see if that works are the reman units any good out of Autozone or O'reilly's?
I am on the fence with getting rid of my 7.3. Here's why. Whenever I crawl underneath the truck or look under the hood I see all these different oil/fluid leaks. She has less than 200k miles and I use her to tow my boat to go fishing.
Right now I am trying to weigh if the truck is worth keeping or selling and then getting a new/newer truck.
Here are some leaks. One is obviously oil and coming from what I guess is the front main seal. I really don't know. The other leaks going onto the U-joint look like oil leaking down the axle from the front differential.
I'm growing a business and not sure if I have time to play mechanic. However, everyone I talk to always exclaims, "You got a 7.3?! You luck SOB!" and I am kinda getting the feeling letting her go would be a mistake. FWIW, she is paid off.
Other than a slight wobble in the steering wheel at speed, she runs like a hoss.
2003 Excursion 7.3
There is fuel leaking from somewhere on the passenger side of the engine.
What things should I be looking for? I'm thinking injector? Is it easy to identify and replace?
2003 7.3 175,000 miles...
Saw a stain in my driveway where you normally see AC drip. Opened hood and saw degas empty.
Looking around like crazy and find wet area. Where the coolant line turns down beside the passenger fender.
Looks wet near bend going toward running board. Didn't get to inspect much but I pulled back a bit of loom to inspect shape of lines and they look great.
What could be going on?
I have a 2012 with 41k miles on it. I noticed it was leaking oil from the front of the motor. So...I checked the oil and found it to be over full. Assuming I overfilled when I changed the oil (2000 miles ago) I changed the oil again and made certain it was filled properly, 13 qts right in the middle of the dip stick. The oil leak stops. 1000 miles later the oil leak starts again. Too much oil again and the coolant is mysteriously low!!! The dealer can get me in two weeks from now.
Time to get the 7.3 back on the road, I knew I kept the old girl for a reason. 262k of miles no truck should endure and still going strong. I was 21 when I bought the 7.3 (16 years ago) and beat the crap out of it. This truck has been pampered compared to my past trucks. I was hoping to get 14 years out of this truck too.
Is the motor OK after having coolant sloshing around in there? I just hope ford stands behind this one. I have a feeling it's not an easy fix. I am sure glad I left everything stock.
I had a fuel starvation problem because Ford painted the inside of the fuel tank and the paint was coming off and clogging the filters and because I foolishly drove it I now have white smoke spewing out of the tail pipe and an engine miss.
I also explained that I thought that the white smoke did not smell sweet like antifreeze, but rather like diesel. (Hoping that a head gasket replacement is not required.)
I am in the middle of doing the Hutch Mod with frame-mounted Racor PS120-2 jar-type screen pre-pump filter and shortening my previous Harpoon Mod and paint stripping and powerwashing the inside of my tank. Next I plan to move on toward the engine issue.
This evening I was under the van with a flashlight and I noticed that there was a black liquid of some sort at the driver's side exhaust manifold where it joins the up-pipe. At first I was afraid to touch it fearing that it would be carbon-sooted water, but it felt and tasted like carbon-sooted diesel.
And since I haven't started the engine in two weeks and it has been routinely near or over 100F in Sacramento, water would have likely evaporated days ago.
Does it make sense if the fuel starvation problem caused an injector nozzle or its cup to crack or to stick open or to otherwise spew unburnt fuel into the exhaust manifold which would cause the white smoke? Obviously, the unburnt fuel must get from the affected cylinder(s) to the tail pipe somehow, which likely means out the exhaust valve, through the exhaust manifold to the up-pipe and through the turbo to the exhaust pipe and finally to the tail pipe.
See pictures at my CP. I can't figure out how to attach them or put them inline here because it still says I can't do attachments.
What is my next move? Remove the driver's side valve cover? If so, what should I look for, etc.?
2002 E350 extended body van 7.3 diesel auto trans converted to 4x4 (bought new)
I've just finished a marathon replacing the y-pipe, and doing the IPR screen. I had many seized/stripped bolts to contend with. 2 I had to cut off in the most awkward places.. Anyways, it all came together and completed the project late tonight...
Befoer even starting the truck I noticed coolant dripping from passenger side manifold/block heater area.. I obviously must have damaged something in my reefing on turbo to get it lined up with exhaust pipes, etc...
I cannot see the source of the leak, but it seems wet above the block heater, but pools there then drips.. I'm curious where to look. Could I have damaged the EGR cooler and its coming from there? At the manifold joint closest to the back, is there coolant flowing there? I am pretty frustrated, because after going through a day like to day, ripping my arms to shreds, straining for 12 hours straight, then having yet another issue to figure out...
Also this is as best as I could get the y-pipe to meet the turbo... slight gap at bottom.
On Friday am I noticed a 6" sized puddle on the garage floor. Coolant leak on the drivers side coming off the frame. Dropped it off at the dealer on Sunday and today the tech tells me it was in fact a radiator leak and the new one will be here wed. They hope to have it buttoned late Wednesday. I am assuming all will be covered under warranty.
I have 23k miles logged and had just got home from a 1300 mile run pulling about 18k worth of hay and trailer. Truck performed flawlessly. Averaged 11mpg for the trip. I am hoping this is the first and last radiator replacement I have to go thru.
On my 2003 Excursion 7.3L, I notticed I'm leaking what I think is coolant from the passenger side rear hard line by the front spring hanger. I haven't pealed the plastic loom away yet, but I did see the loom is chaffed near the spring hanger. What lines are the ones that carry coolant, and can I just cut the hard lines and replace with a section of rubber hose?
View 3 RepliesMy coolant bottle, as well as my entire engine compartment, is full of oil. The truck won't run. It will make ICP when I first crank it but then it goes away. I have the orings and gaskets to do the oil cooler, it is there any chance there's something else that caused this? Anyway to diagnose the oil cooler before I disassemble?
View 4 RepliesAs explained in the photo annotations, I can't figure out how to remove this line from the radiator so I can remove the radiator for cleaning.
View 7 RepliesSo I'm about to do the oil and EGR coolers on my 6.0. At one point, or currently, my EGR cooler was leaking, so I've got that gooey residue in the intake, at least around the EGR valve. No dry carbon residue. I wondering what is the best way to clean the intake out, if at all. I have to assume there's some clogging in there, especially since I've had the P0401 code for a while. I just wanted to get this done right once, so I'm not coming back to it again any time soon....
View 5 RepliesI am experiencing leaking cooler lines at the turbo. I thought it was only the line coming from the side of the turbo, but it looks like it could be the one going into the top. Can I safely remove the line from the front of the engine without interfering with the other metal lines directly in front of it. See the pic. This is the front of the engine under the turbo.
Also, the fitting in the pictures is not leaking. Can I replace the metal line without replacing the threaded connector going into the engine or does it have to be replaced with the line? I already have parts BC3Z-6A968-C and BC3Z-9U469-A for the line coming out of the side. What is the part #s for the other line pictured?
So changing the oil in my truck the other day, I noticed the exhaust clamp at the union between my down pipe and first section of my exhaust has been rubbing the trans cooler line and there's a Nick in the granny pan. Lookin at the rubber grommet on the hanger, its stretched tight and looks like the exhaust has shifted over. What could have done this or possible fixes?right by now it's got a gob of high temp silicone acting as a stand off. Don't wanna put the new line in until I have the situation remedied.
View 10 RepliesDoing oil cooler. Block heater plug is very tight. Is it reversed threaten?
View 1 Replies