Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Oil In Cold Air Intake
Jul 29, 2015
What does it mean when you find oil in in the cold air intake, is this normal?
View 14 RepliesWhat does it mean when you find oil in in the cold air intake, is this normal?
View 14 RepliesWhile doing a visual inspection I noticed that the AIH hot wire (captured nut wire) had broken off and was laying loose. I removed the wire from the relay and made a new 8 gauge wire, I connected it to the relay and was about to add it to the AIH when I got a healthy spark ( it touched the ground wire ) and yes the truck was not running and the key was out at the time.
This sounds to me like the relay has gone south, am I right??? I have a new OEM relay to install but I have a question. In what order are the wires and ceramic fitting go on the AIH post???
Noticed a while back that the plug for what I assume is the air intake temp sensor is looped. I assume because I can't find the sensor anywhere. how critical is the sensor? The new S&B has a hole for it so it's either gonna need a new sensor or a plug. The local autozone has one for 16.99.
View 12 RepliesDumb question but how do I remove the air filter intake from the turbo Its a little oily there from a fuel or oil leak but I dont see a clamp holding it on the turbo?
Also what is the e clip? Is it the little thing holding the wastegate rod on the exhaust turbine? Can I just pull the rod up off the clip?
I own a 2003 E450 (transit bus conversion) with a 7.3L w/ California emissions. I recently noticed I have a considerable amount of oil in my air intake going back all the way to my turbo starting where the crankcase breather tube attached to the air tube. The breather seems to have some sort of filter housing that is attached to the top of the valve cover. I removed it and it appears to be fairly heavy as in if it's a filter, perhaps it's full. If I'm getting oil into my air intake from where the breather tube comes off that housing and joins in my air tube back to the turbo, could that filter or housing have gone bad? It appears to be a dealer stock item only for 225. I've saw on the web people posting "reroute kits" for the 6.0L but nothing for the 7.3. Does this part simply need replaced or could I be facing a separate issue as to why I'm getting oil in my air tube?
View 14 RepliesAir Intake Heater Plug Code Eliminator P0541
In conjunction with the AIH Delete Plug??
Put in my new S&B intake today and when I stomp on the gas I am getting a loud shuddering noise from the intake when I change gears. Also sounds like a squealing sound sometimes. Doesn't sound like other trucks that I have heard. What that could be?
View 14 RepliesI have an emissions test coming up. I have 3 P codes that I'd like to eliminate before then. I don't want to "fix" the issues they are telling me about. Just make the codes go away. I know why they're there I just need to get rid of them.
What I have coming up is:
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Circuit Valve (result of EBPV delete)
P0541 Intake air heater A circuit low (result of aih delete)
P0640 Intake air heater control circuit (also result of aih delete)
What resistors I'll need and where to put them in?
My truck runs very rough and lacks power when cold, even during the Texas summer. Once it warms-up, everything is fine. It's almost like turning on a light switch. If it's plugged in for a couple/few hours, it's smooth as soon as it starts. I'm assuming it likes the oil once it reaches a specific temperature. What my problem is?
View 14 RepliesMy truck runs very rough and lacks power when cold, even during the Texas summer. Once it warms-up, everything is fine. It's almost like turning on a light switch. If it's plugged in for a couple/few hours, it's smooth as soon as it starts. I'm assuming it likes the oil once it reaches a specific temperature. What my problem is?
View 14 RepliesMy 02 F350 7.3 new to me trucks ac stopped blowing cold. Not air gap issue (shims have been removed prior to my ownership-I pulled hub and checked), the charge is good (according to the shop I went to for evac and refill), and the compressor's cycling quickly. I'm no HVAC guy by any stretch. I have a cheapie gauge from days long ago that I connected to my low side port (which I know isn't definitive) and it reads from 25 to about 40/45 depending on the cycle.
Additional info that may not be anything:
1) Where the line goes from accumulator to evaporator the foam seal is slightly messed up and I feel ice cold air coming out of the housing.
2) The line is warm before the orifice and cold after it.
3) The lines going to the accumulator are both hot (after taking it to shop, before were lukewarm).
4) The condenser doesn't seem to have excessive plugging and I have rinsed it with garden hose sprayer with no difference.
5) The air from the vents blows good, just warm.
6) I've replaced the actuator for the blend door already.
I have an 02 f250 230,000, first 7.3. I've owned it since Oct and put less than 6,000 miles on it. I have another cold crank no start. New glow plugs and Glow plug relay last weekend. Worked fine that weekend. It sat all week, then crank no start fri night, it was like 70 degrees for the high that day. Plugged it in over night and it started. Did not fire right up cranked it for a couple seconds. I drove it all day, started every time. Valve covers have 5,000 miles on them. Fuel Filter heater fuse not blown. But don't know how to check it for sure. And don't know where to go with it from here. Getting frustrated with crank no starts. No troubles found.
View 2 Replies2003 Ford 7.3 E450 ... Just recently got Auto Enginuity Ford enhanced
The problem....The van will run when plugged in for 2 hours or on either. Once started the van runs good. It will not start on its own even at 60 degrees
I got the following codes
KOER (Key On Engine Running)
P0476 Exhaust pressure control valve range/performance
P0673 Cylinder 3 glow plug circuit
KOER (Key On Engine Running) Cylinder Contribution
P0278 Cylinder 6 injector circuit contribution / balance fault
KOEO (Key On Engine Off)
P0113 Intake Air Temp Circuit High Input
KOEO Buzz Test (Key on Engine Off Buzz test)
successful
99 f-350 crew cab. The A/C is not blowing cold as it should. Have already replaced the compressor and clutch, orifice tube and accumulator, also cleaned evaporator coil and put a new blower motor on, also a new blend door actuator. Also put a valve in to block coolant from the heater core. System has had vacuum pulled and charged correctly by my mechanic, he says he doesn't know of anything else to do, that it was as good as its going to get. Ive been in 2 more trucks identical to mine and the A/C will freeze you out, as to where mine will not come close. Temp coming out of the vents barely gets down to 60 degrees
View 14 RepliesI just started having a cold start problem with my '02 Excursion this fall and I'm at my wit's end trying to fix it. Truck starts fine above about 45 degrees and when it's warm. If I plug in the block heater it also starts fine in the cold. If it's not too cold I can eventually get it started by continuing to crank it. It blows white smoke while cranking and for a few seconds after it finally turns over. Smells like fuel. Runs rough for 30 sec after starting when it finally turns over. Definitely seems like glow plugs aren't working. This truck started no problem on GPs alone without plugging in down to -20 deg F before this year.
I started by cleaning all battery connections, including the two ground posts on the engine block, I replaced one bad battery (diagnosed by Autozone; other one was OK), I checked the resistance of the glow plugs (only a few years old with about 30k miles on them) through the connectors on the GP control module (all were about 1 ohm), and confirmed 12V at the power pins in the GP control module connectors. I then replaced the GP control module and the problem is still present. Battery voltage drops from about 12.6 V before I start the GP cycle to about 12V when I turn the key to "ON" and the GP light comes on. How much should the voltage drop when the GPs are on? What the heck else could be wrong??
I have a 95 powerstroke as a daily so I realize the common oil leak issues and where to start. Today at work I came in to our 2002 7.3 with a puddle of oil underneath of it. It's a service truck I'm the mechanic and I honestly after filling it could not get it to leak I tried everything. A guy had come in and started it after sitting for the holiday and it sat and idled and leaked probably 2-3 quarts. They shut it down and I came in I added probably 1 1/2 gallons to get it full again. Has almost 300k after I had gotten there they had already warmed the truck up and it had cooled back down. It's coming from the driver side (axle frame rail and leaf spring) are all covered in oil but no obvious signs when shut off idling under load anything of an oil leak. I tried everything to get it to leak and not a drop.
View 14 RepliesOk truck would not start when cold outside. So I put a gpr on truck. Truck alt would only put out 11.5 ... After I put it on. So I put 4 new alts on all read the same 11.5 and the battery's would drain over night. Turns out they gave me a starter relay. So I have the proper one now. Now when u turn the key the everything is flashing the dash dome light buzzer. But take one of the small wired off the gpr, it stops but I have no power to the starter. It's been 2 months of hell trying to figure it out.
View 14 RepliesSo back ground is as such. Truck started fine before I replaced the hpop with t500 and did the driven diesel regulated return. I have double checked everything is plugged in. Now when I try to start it cold it will just crank. Yes I get smoke and oil pressure both places. If I give it a shot of ether it will start right up and run fine all day. What am I missing? Yes I know ether bad.
View 14 RepliesLooking for a blower that moves more air? My A/c is cold but doesn't blow good. I can feel it in the front seat but not good. It has been changed before by the po.
View 12 RepliesI had issues with my F250 cranking last winter when the temperature dropped, so I changed out the glow plugs in the spring. I hadn't been able to truly test them yet, since it hasn't been cold, but the other morning my truck wouldn't crank up. It was 40 degrees out the night before, and it had been almost 24 hours since I cranked the truck, but it seems to me like the truck shouldn't have an issue in that mild weather.
I'm not sure what I need to do next to try and fix this problem, it's been driving me crazy and risks stranding me if I park for a while in an area where I am unable to plug by block heater in. The truck cranks fine when I have had it plugged in for a while, so I'm fairly certain it's a heating issue. I haven't done any tests since last year, but I know that the GPR was working properly last winter, which is why I changed out the glow plugs.
I have a early 99 f250 super duty 7.3l and it's giving me fits. about a month ago the truck started to do a hot no start. drove truck for about a hour. Shut it off and half hour later no start. Let it sit over night and would start with long crank.
Changed CPS no change. Pulled tuner and set back to stock. No change.
Changed fuel filter, no change.
After reading forums changed IPR and truck started and ran great. About a week ago back to the same problem. Battery's are about 2 months old. Oil change and oil filter a month ago.
Checked the hpop reservoir and its 1/2 from the top.
Checked fuel bowl and it has fuel. no sign of oil in it.
Drained bowl and watch bowl fill back up. seems to fill quickly.
Pulled passside valve cover to check for bad orings while cranking.
Every thing seems fine. have not done driver side yet. used FORSCAN and ran buzzed test on injectors and they all buzzed what seems to be about the same. ran test couple of times to make sure. this morning I ran a live scan while cranking and this is what I got right before it started. ICP 660.6psi, IPR 64.84% and RPMs 227. took 8.86 seconds to start. after work scaned again for hot no start and this what I got. ICP 292.9psi, IPR 55.86%. and RPMS 203. unplug ICP and no change. still will not start. one thing I did notice when plugging ICP back in I looked down in side at the pins and can see what seems to be bubbling around one of the pins. the pig tail has just the slights sign of oil.