Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Oil / Coolant Leaking Down
Jan 12, 2017
So just a couple hundred miles ago I changed the oil and oil filter in my 99 7.3 ... It wasn't till today I noticed an oil/coolant leak ... It is on the driver side of the engine by the oil cooler ... "It isn't the oil cooler leaking already checked"... It seems to be behind the water pump to the driver side of the hpop... Where the thermostat is it is like right behind that but I can't think of what it is .... Its not the oil pump leaking ... It is leaking down and being blown back across my oil pan and oil filter... That is the oil cooler it has residue but its not the problem
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I've had my early 99 f350 7.3L for a lil while now. Starting to see few problems surfacing. while doing my weekly fluid levels found oil in coolant and after looking around found oil covering bottom of driver side engine. As far as i can see it looks like oil cooler leaking from front side.. Should i just replace oil cooler or rebuild?
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So a dead thermostat forced me to drain the coolant in my E350 7.3L. I noticed the previous owner had green coolant in the van so I decided to do a flush and put in the right coolant. I used Shell Rotella ELC. Well, I noticed after coming home the other day that the van was leaking coolant, upon inspection I noticed its now leaking from the water pump, then today the drain valve sprang a leak! What the HECK is going on!? Is it possible that the seals were shocked when I changed the coolant? Not looking forward to doing a water pump replacement on an E350... sure is crammed under the hood.
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Looking for a write-up on replacing the seals on the hose that leaks at the power steering pump? I replace them once but may of over tightened them. I pour in atf and see it dripping on drivers side of power steering pump. Can I just use regular o rings?
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I did the extended seal kit and non-serviceable plug on my HPOP and now the CEL is on. It is throwing the below codes. The truck in all reality runs fine and even a little better on a cold start than before resealing, just the CEL is on.
P1280
P1209
P1282
P1212
P1211
I cleaned the IPR when it was out when I put new seals on it but could it go bad by just taking it apart? The ICP and IPR are definitely plugged in. The truck is all stock, no chips.
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I have my 2002 Ford F450 7.3 diesel in the shop right now. Early story is it is leaking in the turbo or there is a problem with the turbo. Last summer I took the truck cross country and 500 miles from home I was gunning it to get on the highway and it started acting up (poor excelleration). And it started smoking and leaking oil. I crippled it home at lower speeds. Now that it's in the shop they told me about the turbo but have to keep it till tomorrow for a closer look. My question is what else should I consider since they have it in. I mean should they replace the turbo while their at it or any other parts that make sense since they are already into it?
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I let a small leak that I thought was engine oil go too long it appears before checking the transmission which had still been working ok. I added a whole quart of Lucas and then another quart of Mercon so the level was pretty low. What to do next as I am about to leave Alaska and go back down the highway. Is my ZF trashed now? Still seems to work fine. Or is there a seal somewhere that I can change?
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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Initially had indications of a leak under the wheel arch on the drivers side.
About 3-4 months back replaced both PS lines and the leak stopped - briefly (maybe a couple a weeks).
Now the leak is back, but what's interesting is I lose more ATF fluid on a single long haul run than I do running round town for 3 weeks. I can't work out where the leak is coming from to identify what else to replace - short of just buying a pump and reservoir and replacing them as I've already done the hoses.
My turbo cooler pipe was hard up against the old PS pipe where it entered the side of the reservoir until I did the replacement hoses. Now I have it out the way but I'm wondering if it's caused some unseen wear or damage.
If I just do the pump to see if that works are the reman units any good out of Autozone or O'reilly's?
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So my understanding is that if your turbo is leaking oil, you either need to rebuild it or get a new turbo cause the one you have is shot.
I have some oil leaking, but it's not a ton. One one of my buddies was telling me that it's possible that the amount that is leaking is normal due to the PCV (Pressure Control Valve) system, or something like that. Here are a few shots of the turbo, as well as the boots that are leading up to the turbo.
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I have a 7.3 and I think it's leaking oil out of the HPOP but I'm really not positive.
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Well my hpop is cracked and leaking alot I need to get home this sucks I must of tighted it too hard
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I have a 2000 f250 super duty extended cab with the 7.3 diesel and auto tranny which the tranny was rebuilt by Samco about 7 years ago and I have 337,000 miles on engine I had a oil leak from I believe my oil cooler which I fixed, but I am still losing oil, about a gallon or more every other day and in that time frame I am only driving maybe 30 miles. I have no drips, and I seriously don't believe it's burning because the truck is not smoking even when you rev the motor up. the bottom of the rear of motor is coated with oil plus as is part of tranny and some front of motor bottom. What to look for?
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I have a 99.5 with 400,000. on the engine. It has been a great truck but it is time for the some TLC. I have a little leak on the radiator and the water pump and would like to replace it. I am just looking for stock.
I have a 13 yr old that grew up sitting on my lap as we drove the dirt roads around the house and on the ranch. He has been driving this truck by himself (on the ranch) as soon as he was able to reach the pedals, around 8 or 9. His happiest day will be when he gets his drivers license and can drive the truck to school. So I have a lot of work ahead of me on this truck.
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Had coolant in oil, so pulled motor. Got used motor to replace it with, thinking about doing some work on it before reinstall.
Got bellowed up pipes, injector o-rings, front and rear main seal, and will use best parts from both motors to make one. I'll also shim injector armatures back to spec.
Should I do injector cups too? What else is recommended to do at this time? Both motors are 350k or so, I was on a budget at a moment and have to make it work with what I got.
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What is the effect will some oil contamination is the cooling system?
Does it significantly affect the cooling efficiency? I have some oil the coolant on my boat. I do not believe it is a lot maybe a few oz, but I have been chasing some unexplained overheating issues. Will adding water wetter solve oil issues (if there are any). The other option is Dawn and several cycles of flushing the system. ie until the cows come home!
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I have a 2002 excursion and every time I try to put the coolant at the min level cold, it overflows through the cap until it is about 1.5-2 inches below the min level. Then it stops. I just did the oil cooler seals last night because I had a little oil in the coolant. Same thing happened this morning - overflowed again.
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Although not certain, I *thought* I saw coolant run into the front drivers side injector hole when the injector was out and I leaned on the radiator hose. I had knowledge t pull them and changing the orings who were initially concerned then not concerned after looking closer.
Either I made a mistake in what I thought I saw on my first experience with injectors, or there really is a problem that I didn't know enough about to address at the time. So I opened this thread to get more info and stop hijacking 67speeda's thread, found here: [URL] ....
As per recommendations, I will check my coolant bottle for any fuel, oil, residue, etc. I am also going to reach out to my buddies and see if they saw a problem with coolant, too, or they realized it wasn't coolant and I didn't take note of it ...
It was a REALLY LONG day and my ability to concentrate had begun to slip quickly (health issues), so it's possible I missed something there. So IF I saw coolant going into that cylinder with the injector removed, how bad would that be? I thought it came from pretty high up and ran down where the injector sits..
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The dipstick tube flange is now leaking ....
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I purchased the truck over a year ago and never had a problem with the transmission. The only issue was a leaking transmission pan gasket so I changed it put the same fluid that came out back in it since it looked brand new and didnt smell burnt or anything. So fast forward time and my girlfriend was driving the truck over the winter and lost control of the truck and spun it around and hit the front end of the truck into a rock wall.I have a weston bar on the front end that took the majority of the hit.
Shortly after the transmission would start to run warmer than normal. It would be 20 degrees outside and my transmission temp sensor would be reading around 140. Now that the weather is getting warmer the transmission is heating up a lot more. I took it to a guy to have him look at it and thought maybe the cooler was clogged or something like that and possibly put a larger cooler on it. He called me up a few days later and said their was a larger cooler already on it but it was not hooked up. It is a black one mounted on the front of the radiator. He said he cut the lines off of the old one and there was a slight bend in the one line so he cut a little higher than that line and then hooked up the cooler.
He told me he blew in the lines and there was no restrictions in it, i guess no pressure when we blue on the lines. I drove it home and the temp went higher than ever before up to 220. The cooler on the front was ice cold and trans pan was hot.I am starting to think maybe the bypass is bad and the fluid isn't getting to the cooler. The fluid is still pink and does not smell burnt so I want to fix the problem before any issues arise. The truck has 137000 miles on it. I have attached pictures of the cooler that he said was already there but not hooked up.
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I have a 2003 Excursion with a 7.3 and 240,000 miles. I have oil leaking around the transmission and the local diesel shop found the pedestal leaking. I installed a new pedestal from Rotomaster Part # A1382205N. It came with new O-rings and turbo bolts. I ran the truck and it began leaking again. Thinking I had pinched an O-ring I pulled it apart again but found nothing. I cleaned and inspected everything and reinstalled. Its still leaking. I used a straight edge to ensure the sealing surfaces were straight.
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