Funny shifts and OD light blinking. Have p0741 and p0743 codes. Checked wiring and no visible damage. Checked continuity on the purple-yellow TC wire from connector under hood and at Trans and their is none.?? Also will I hurt the Trans driving this way if the temp stays in check?
View 14 RepliesSo my OD light started blinking on the way to work today. The fact that my truck dropped out of cruise control and then started downshifting out of OD on the freeway and back into OD started this ordeal. A quick scan of the dash made it easy to notice the OD light strobe, especially in the dark.
I've read some posts in the past in the event it happened to me since my truck is far from new. I had it in the back of my mind that I would attack the VSS sensor with some contact cleaner then replace if that didn't fix the problem. Doing a search revealed a far greater spectrum of culprits. In addition to the VSS potential I have read about transmission handles, chafed wiring in the steering column, and even the transmission itself. Instead of re-inventing the wheel I'm looking for those that have more knowledge on this issue than I do. Here are my symptoms:
1. Drove 5 miles from my house to the freeway with no issues.
2. Shortly after getting on the freeway I set my cruise control at 65mph.
3. Shortly after that my cruise control 'dropped out' and the truck started to slow down (obviously).
4. When I got back up to speed the cruise would not work which is when the out of OD and right back into OD started. It did that all the way to work (it would go out of OD and back in every couple of minutes or so).
5. Transmission hunted on surface streets too (25mph).
6. Turned the truck off, waited a couple of minutes, then started it back up. OD light is off and truck drives fine.
A couple of things to note. This is the first time anything like this has ever happened with the truck. Also, I have Torque Pro and my instantaneous MPG meter was at 0.0 the entire time this was happening. When I turned the truck off and back on, the MPG was displaying again normally. This is what made me thing something with the VSS connector.
I decided to search the issue and confirm my suspicions then found out that this could be a lot more difficult to pinpoint. Since it cleared up when I cycled the key I am ruling out a transmission issue (for now).
I plan on cleaning the VSS connector (that's the plug on top of the rear axle right?) and then pulling the cover off the steering column to see if I can see any chafed wires. Is there anything else to check out while I'm rooting around? I will add that my transmission handle has always been loose (I think the original owner used to drive with his right hand resting on the handle).
I drove the truck to work. It was fine. I start it up at quitting time and let it idle for a minute. When I pulled out of the parking lot and the od light started blinking. After about 8 miles I stopped at a red light. When the light turn green and I drove off the speedometer is working again. The od light flashed for another mile or 2 then stopped.
View 3 RepliesSpeedometer not working and O/D light blinks, I have a 450 and a 250, 99 and 2000. On 450 this is an intermiting problem. Stop truck turn ignition off, restart and it all works now. Just started on my 250 and stopping and turning ignition off cures the problems for a few seconds, after i get moving the speedometer doesnt work and then light starts blinking again O/D light. Where do I need to start?
View 7 RepliesSo here's the deal: My 2000 F250 has began to have the overdrive light blink when I am traveling at low speeds <40mph and it is accompanied by strange shifting (lower gear for a longer period of time). As soon as I get up to highway speeds the blinking stops and goes back to normal operation. But as soon as I go back to low speeds it happens again. When I put the truck in to park when it has the light blinking it revs it self to about 1200rpms then goes back to normal idle. This truck has 228k miles and is on the original transmission.
View 5 RepliesTook a 2 hour trip got of the interstate came to a stop light and the OD light starting blinking cut the truck off at the light fired it back up shifted in every gear like normal drove a little ways stopped at a light and OD started blinking again cut truck off back on light. Went away shifted great threw all the gears.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 f250 with the 7.3 and 181,000 miles on it, recently got stuck in the snow (in 2wd because i forgot to lock the hubs) and the rear wheels did alot of spinning. Now i randomly have the OD light start to blink, sometimes its a half a blink, sometimes it'll stay on for a few seconds, itll do it randomly while crusing down the road at a constant speed, also noticed my rpms fluctuate a tad at idle.
View 4 RepliesOK, truck is 2000 F350. I am heading on a 2000 mile roadtrip to Yellowstone for my wife's 40th birthday in two days. What was our rock of a vehicle is now causing me severe anxiety.
Over the last few days the truck has been difficult to start - almost stops turning over as if the batteries were low. So I ignored it because if I plug it in, it starts fine and if I drive it and it gets hot - it starts fine.
Tonight while driving - I noticed a high idle and then it went to normal - I thought it was weird and a few miles later at a stop sign it struggled at idle, sort of loping but not romping very high and the over drive light started blinking. When I got home when I went from drive to neutral it goes to high idle and then the overdrive light blinks. The first time it blinked it went off when I pressed the OD button - but now it continues to blink.
Would low batteries be the root cause of this? I will continue my search for blinking OD light but I thought I would get this in the queue in case this is bigger than I can handle. I have 48 hours to resolve this issue - leaving Wednesday early morning.
I bought this truck with 200000 miles and its been flawless, its now 900 short of 600000.. I use it to haul everyday.. nothing heavy mostly a car or truck and every once in a while a skid steer. I got 560000 out of my trans, i take it easy. lol
at 350k I installed a Jw valve body drilled pump, tripple disc converter and solenoid pack.. at 560k it went, i pulled it and brought to a guy i trust as much as you guys trust BDS.. Ive had what Ive called a vibration since day one, could be a shudder, could be a shimmy.. what ever.. I brought it back and he says nothing would do that from a trans, so I went through drive shaft, new t case ripped apart rear end and its still there and I have just been dealing with it.. about 2 months ago it started acting up in first. when I pull down to drive I get the normal bump and start to go, it feel like the truck slows, then another bump and it climbs normally with the shudder.
took it back and he said maybe a stuck valve in small VB, so I pulled it and went down there and it was fine, I reinstalled and still does same thing. I then put a pressure gauge on it and it swings as it should sits around 70 psi and will climb, only in first it will climb and fall back to 70 like a switch was flipped, and the rest of the gears bleed off slowly or normally.. He then said it could be the big valve body, so I swapped that one out with another and no real change, maybe its a bit more noticeable.
I am at a loss. Could this be loose feed bolts? Could the shudder that I can feel at most speeds be the 1 gear slipping a tiny bit all the time? I am told that first gear is always on.. this truck has been a dream until this trans issue..
As my truck stands it has OEM automatic locking hubs with a selector for auto or lock. So, why would some one buy manual locking hubs and cap off the ESOF vacuum line when the OEM ones perform the same function by being auto or locked?
I hope this makes sense because if I felt I wanted to go to manual style locking hubs, I think I could simply cap off the vacuum line and then switch the hub to lock if I wanted 4x4 because the electric switch inside the truck is actually what engages the transfer case and puts the truck into 4x4.
Is this thinking/theory correct or am I missing something here?
I have 1996 Ford F-250 that I just put a axle in that came out of a 2003 Ford F-350 this week. I test drove it today and my locking hub fell out of the driver side. I looked for it but couldn't find it. I drove home and the ring fell off of the passenger side from driving it back but the hub hadn't fallen out yet. what can I do to keep the hubs from falling out...
View 9 RepliesI have 1996 Ford F-250 that I just put a axle in that came out of a 2003 Ford F-350 this week. I test drove it today and my locking hub fell out of the driver side. I looked for it but couldn't find it. I drove home and the ring fell off of the passenger side from driving it back but the hub hadn't fallen out yet. what can I do to keep the hubs from falling out
View 6 RepliesI know this is going to sounds lame, my wife can't turn them, they have cover over it that has to be unscrewed to get at 'em. It would be nice to shift in and out "on the fly" as weather condition change.
Is it a difficult change?
I've been having an electrical issue for the past few months that I've decided to address now that the weather is getting a little warmer.
What happened is the left turn signal was blinking fast, so I assumed bad bulb, and later that day it stopped blinking fast and now I press the lever down to indicate a left turn and there is a quite loud buzzing sound. Sounds like it's coming from where the relays are, but I've replaced them and the bulbs and still nothing has changed.
I've also replaced the multifunction switch to see if that was an issue, but a new one did the same thing so I returned it.
Running lights work all around, but now there are no left blinkers, and also my left brake light doesn't come on. Pulling a trailer I have the same problem, I had the plug tested and only 3 of the pins have anything to them.
I know nothing about auto electrical systems.
I connect the batteries and the overhead lights don't out, plus the theft light is blinking. Bad door switch maybe? I don't have the original Ford key
View 1 RepliesCame on other day. No ses light or fault codes. What it means?
View 10 RepliesI have some LED strips i bought, some i am going to install under the door sills to light my nerf bars/steps. The rest i am installing under the bed rail to light the inside of the bed. I want them to come on with the interior lights. So when i hit the unlock button on my key fob, or open the door said lights will come on.
View 7 RepliesMy buddy is selling his truck in a couple days and was taking out speakers, afe intake, and satelite radio. I go to start the truck and i have no power to windows, no power to radio and no domelight when i switch it on and off. Dont know what i did but none of this works and everything else does.
I checked all fused all were good. I searched the forum for a solution and they said something about the automatic delay relay and i bought a new one and nothing still. I am not sure what else to do i checked with voltmeter if i had anypower to the window or radio and nothing. But the radios clock works and when i turn on the light it illuminates but doesnt turn on.
The truck is a 2002 7.3L Crewcab. f350
I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
View 8 RepliesWe have a 2002 7.3 f350 2wd this darn thing is now tripping me out. At first when ou start the truck its all good but when it warms up the idle is funky when you go to stop at a lite its like im power breaking and rough idle once stopped the idle is about between 800 and 900rpms at a stop really high idle but plenty of power on take off...
View 2 RepliesIdiot light was on for battery charging issues. Sanded all ground connections. Soldered battery cable connections. Scan gauge showed sporadic inadequate charging. Installed new alternator. Scan gauge showed sporadic inadequate charging. Installed new interstate batteries. Brought old alternator to be rebuilt, rebuilder said it was strong as could be, needed no work, high output alternator. Reinstalled old high output alternator. Scan gauge now shows charge output of 13.9 V to 14.1 V
Idiot light still on, flickers like a loose connection, sometimes lights constantly.Occasionally speedometer fluctuates wildly, when fluctuating like this at idle, the truck will stall, so far it restarts...so far. When it has stalled the speedometer still fluctuates wildly for a few seconds truck will restart and seem fines but this will play out again next day or so. Occasionally ABS light comes on, occasionally water in fuel light comes on and they go away after abit, some times after a restart, not always though
Thought it might be cam positon sensor however not certain with the instrument lights also acting as they do. Have had one cam position sensor open circuit code once, about to trip out west to Monatana & Colorado and back home to Ma in a couple of weeks, hoping not to be stranded somewhere in between those places!