Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Noisy While Driving Straight Or Turning To The Right - Possible Hub Replacement?
Nov 1, 2016
Got some road noise going on always noisy while driving straight or turning to the right. If I take a turn at speed on the highway to the left the noise stops. Sounds normal, once I straighten out the noise returns. So my thoughts are clearly drivers side, but not 100% sure where to start my search. Wheel hub is my first thought, is there anything i can do to check if the hub is good since they are sealed?
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So I replaced all the rings on my injectors . After putting them back in turned the engine over 5-7 times by hand with the glow plugs out. Then I turned it over with them out as well with the valve covers off. After than I installed everything back in. Now is my problem. I've turned it over 5 times and no luck. Not even on turn over. The oil light keeps coming on?? The indicator doesn't move up at all. It will go up and come down ? Is something wrong with the hpop? Should I keep cranking? Gotta to charge the batteries now..
2001 f250 7.3
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This morning I went to start her up, and she fired right up and I let her warm up until oil temp got to 100F, when I realized that I wasn't leaving right away so I shut it down and came back about an hour later. Oil temp now at 78F, but she wouldn't start. Have Torque Pro running, and the IPR is going straight to 98.6% every time while cranking, sits at 14.7% with KOEO.
Truck's been running fine, recent oil/filter change (T6 10-40W), cleaned & re-installed CAC tubes/boots for leaks. All else seems good. Pulling the ICP sensor shows HPOP going to 2800psi, with IPR @ 30%, still no start and not even a cough.
The IPR is original, rebuilt once several years ago.
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4 cylinder Japan built camry se manual trans ... 158k miles
Steering got stiff/lumpy driving to work today...trying to figure out if it's the rack or the pump.
Pump isn't squealing but makes a tiny bit more noise when turning left or right(when parked)...but I'm not sure its more then normal.
No leaking fluid. Fluid reservoir is filled to the correct level. No torn boots etx.
Steering feels fine driving straight down the road but when turning it's gets stiff and harder, esp going right.
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Looks like a pia but nothing too crazy.I don't have a pitman arm puller, but can borrow one.
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I have a e99 f350 7.3 all stock. I have no power. The truck will crank for about 15-20sec before it'll turn over. I just purchased the*AE*but am fairly new to understanding it all. In idle its a little rough and when I drive I can only stay in the neighborhood because of fear of getting rearended due to very slow acceleration. Whats weird is that when i have no power while i am driving ill keep the pedal down throw it in nuetral and my rpms and*icp*pressure jump up right away. Things I've replaced:
Icp*sensor
Fuel pump
Pcm
Tps
Cps
Ipr
Dropped tanked and cleaned screens
When cranking my*icp*pressure climbs slowly to right under 500. I dont know what else to do ive been working on this truck dor two months some days 13hs straight, I am feeling defeated. Codes p1249 1211 1209....
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I have a 2004 F-150 Super Crew Lariat which I bought new and I just turned 300,000 miles. The truck has been very well maintained and is in great shape. It is hands-down the best vehicle I have ever owned and I have owned plenty. I drive mostly highway miles and lately I have notice a slight roughness or vibration when driving straight or turning right. If I turn left of center it drives as smooth as the day I bought it. The dealer can't figure it out, or they don't have the experienced personnel and/or they don't care to figure it out because of the high miles. They checked the power steering pump, which checked out fine and that was as far as it went.
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I'm in the middle of replacing the hub and bearing assembly, once i got the hub assembly off, I noticed when I grab the axle there is a lot of play if I pull the axle up and down or left to right. Is this normal as the hub assembly holds it in position? I don't have any fluid leaking so the seal must be good, or am I missing something. I am trying to do this in 30 degree weather and it sucks.
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To those of you that have replaced your unit bearing hubs on your 4 x 4's; are they giving comparable service to the OEM units? I'm replacing ball-joints right now and it would sure be easy to slap on some new hubs. The only issue is I have 130k on the originals and have been lubing them through the ABS port for the last 20k miles - the hubs seem to be in good condition. I've noticed some posters stating that since lubing an already good hub, that they are now getting a lot more than the standard 150k out of them. I also worry about replacing perfectly good US bearing hubs with most likely a Chinese bearing hub (Timken or not!).
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I have a 99.5 with 400,000. on the engine. It has been a great truck but it is time for the some TLC. I have a little leak on the radiator and the water pump and would like to replace it. I am just looking for stock.
I have a 13 yr old that grew up sitting on my lap as we drove the dirt roads around the house and on the ranch. He has been driving this truck by himself (on the ranch) as soon as he was able to reach the pedals, around 8 or 9. His happiest day will be when he gets his drivers license and can drive the truck to school. So I have a lot of work ahead of me on this truck.
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Rebuilding my 7.3 and I'm in need of the removal and install tool for the injector sleeves/cups for the 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel.
I'll pay all shipping charges and a small fee if required. I hate purchasing a tool I'll never need again, rather better not need.
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So i bought a Aluminum Flatbed to replace my rotted bed. Its about to blow off going down the road at this point. The new Flatbed is Aluminum with LED lights. I suspect i will need to wire in a load reducercorrect? Also this bed has no fuel spout so i need to fabricate something. I also plan on installing underbed tool boxes if there is space.
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I need to replace the cable on my gear shift indicator. Of course you can't just replace the cable. I have even looked on you tube and not found anything. I don't know if maybe I am using the wrong search terms or not.
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How hard is the water pump to replace on 1999 f250 7.3 ...
Any thing special i need to know before tackling this job ...
Also is there any step by step instructions ???
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My oil pan has rusted through and is beginning to leak. Can replace a 7.3L oil pan without pulling the engine? It looks like if I remove the turbo and fan clutch, I should have enough clearance to lift the engine several inches and get the pan to clear the crossmember. Or would it be easier to just pull the engine?
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I'm going to be replacing my lower radiator hose so figured might as well switch over to the extended life stuff going to probably go with the Delo ELC.. Supposedly it's good for 750k.
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I will be changing all the glow plugs in a few days. Should I re-torque the head bolts or anything while I am in there? Don't want to button it back up and then wish I had done something while in there.
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Got new batteries installed yesterday and found that the passenger side battery has a nearly broken positive terminal. Had to handle it very gently.
Don't want to replace the entire battery cable just to get the terminal. Using bolt-on replacement terminals? What did you go with and where can it be found?
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Do we need to drain the fluid to change the transfer case motor?
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Ford catalog does not list the TPS for a 1999 7.3 Super Duty as a separate replaceable part which leads to replacing the whole throttle pedal assembly. I found this to be incorrect. If you have a throttle pedal assembly with separate TPS (separate 3 wire connector) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch 2 wire connector) just the TPS can be replaced.
This is a pic of my 99 with new TPS installed : [URL] .....
Without removing the whole assembly you only need to remove the 2 T25 screws and the connector to replace.
Since this part is listed for more then 20 Ford trucks I figured it would work in my 99 7.3. I bought a brand new TPS from Pete (F250_) that he could not use. He has a 2002 with one 5 wire connector. It works perfectly in my 99. Not sure if it will work in a 2000 or 2001 but if the TPS and IVS each have their own connector it should. Make a visual inspection to be sure.
Part DY-967 or F4SZ-9B989-AA - Potentiometer
I was going to go with a Dorman TPS but like PartsGuyED likes to say "OEM Baby". The OEM TPS through Ed is actually cheaper then the Dorman.
Side-by-side pic of the old and new TPS. Only the center rotating part is different but it fits and works just fine. It also has a better fit so there is less slop and almost immediate response.
NewOldTPS.jpg?t=1269362105
By the way, the original TPS was working fine so I have no idea what the symptoms of a bad TPS are. Since it was available I replaced it to have a spare and to see if this one would work. Both Pete and I thought it would and we were right.
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In my motor build I'm replacing the HPOP fittings in the head. Do these need any sort of thread locker to secure?
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