i just installed the cups and injectors. well i have no start now i have covers off and getting no oil throw injectors passed buzz test . reserviour is full, so is under icp removed both after and had oil everywhere but also heard a gurgling sound.
Here a video of cranking : YouTube....
I have an electrical problem on my 2003 f250 7.3 diesel. Sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't (mostly doesn't). I have two new batteries in it and have cleaned the grounds at the batteries and at the engine. When I go to start the truck all the lights in the dashboard work and it dings at me but when i crank the key nothing. I wanted to see if i was getting power to the starter and when I put my multi-meter down on the ignition wire on the starter and put my ground lead on the chassis bolt it starts every time.....I'm thinking this should not happen?? Is that a bad ground or a short or something else?
View 14 RepliesFour months when you tried to start the vehicle sometimes you will hear the starter. Drive in gauge but not meet the flywheel. Sometimes it would take three or four tries to turn over the engine. Yesterday went out to start the engine turn the key nothing happen no noise nothing but all the lights were working OK..
The repair shop said it was not the starter but flywheel missing teeth. But they said the main thing wrong is a need of new battery terminals. They change them in the truck started fine last night Today when my wife try to start it then come home saying thing happen nothing no sound, no nothing. Am I dealing with a bad starter solenoid perhaps or a combination of a bad flywheel??
Didn't think anything of it but i have noticed a few times this week when i start the truck after it's to temp, shut down for an hour, the restart I hear coolant gurgling in the dash area? Was very noticeable this evening. Still no overheating and heat blows nice and hot. Still getting the blows warm to a certain temp, then cold to a certain temp, then hot once to temp then will stay hot until fully cold soaked. Think my tstat is not acting right?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Camry. When I start it, I hear a "gurgling" sound, like bubbling water.Sounds like it is coming fom under the dashboard, but can't be sure.Heater core is my first guess, but heat is fine and it seems to be coming from the driver's side - not the passenger's side where the heater core is located.
View 5 RepliesPulled out of the restaurant I ate dinner at tonight and I lost most power and there's a loud air sucking sound. I felt around all the boots and didn't feel any air, but it was really hot and couldn't feel a whole bunch. It's a 2003 7.3 with 295k. There is a little smoke/soot coming from the turbo area, any chance that's related? I'm perplexed...
View 10 Replies2003 f550 with 7.3, suddenly loses power and struggles while driving. White/blue smoke comes from tailpipe, can smell the diesel exhaust bad when happens, comes and goes intermittently but has been happening more and more often. I uploaded a video onto YouTube to show sound, rough running motor and smoke from exhaust although smoke not that bad in video. Search "shadetreelandscaping" on YouTube in case link below doesn't work.
ShadeTreeLandscaping - YouTube
Took to ford dealer a few diff times for problem and they can't get any codes, can't duplicate problem. After it being in for third time they say had to call ford tech hotline and they suggest replacing injector however can not and will not gaurntee that will solve problem, and obviously dealer isn't cheap for repair. I find it hard to believe that a bad injector(s) would be an intermittent problem as it is or that it would cause fuel pump to make gurgling sound.
Now ive got a tick tick tick tick sound from the engine. The tick increases and decreases with rpm and is present at idle. If it were a gasser i would say a lifter, honestly it kinda reminds me of a sewing machine lol.
Whatever it is as long as its not serious and my engine is solid im ok w it, I bought this truck knowing I was going to have to put work into it, I just didn't know work was going to go fall one after the other week by week from the day I got it....the previous owner must really have neglected this thing....
Hard to hear it over the sound of the engine, but its there, and is slowly getting worse
[URL]
Towing a 5th wheel at about 10,000 lbs total. Towards the end of out 9 hour trip home and going upgrade the truck begins to loos power and the engine starts making some bad sounds. Although its hard to hear it starts about 45 seconds in and continues later when going uphill. the truck also made a very high pitched squealing/scraping sound (not a belt) like it may have been coming from the turbo. Oil temp was about 220, trans temp at 170 at the time of the event.
Truck has 216k, stock, upgraded trans cooler, original fuel pump.
Here is the video : YouTube.....
I've recently picked up a new noise. At idle the engine buzzes. It sounds like the vacuum pump running but coming from the engine (the vacuum pump is not running while this noise is happening). This noise could also be happening while I'm driving too but the RPMs bring up the engine noise so I can't tell. Nothing looks out of the ordinary and I haven't done anything different that would give me any direction (no off-roading). It was just there one day.
The truck doesn't seem to be running any differently (right now), just the buzzing. I just want to catch it if it's going to become something serious. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure (not to mention the towing bill!).
The issue: when I reach 37-40mph I have a new sound which I believe is the transmission 4R100. It sounds like a flat spot on a tire, or the sound tires make when they leave the sticker on them. The cadence of the sound is slower than the rotation of the wheels.
If I let off the accelerator, the sound stops, as soon as I add load by pressing the accelerator the sound returns. If I shift to Neutral the sound is gone.
If I coast at any speed the sound is gone. It is only audible when under load at speeds above 37-40 mph. The cadence does increase as I speed up, but it doesn't sound as fast as the motor is turning (~1900 rpm's).
I monitor the truck with torque pro using the PIDs defined here on FTE. I can see lock-up in 3rd and the shift to overdrive. When in lock-up, I see 1-7rpm TCSlip.
Watching transmission temp as reported by torque, the hottest I see is 183* pulling an enclosed 6x12 @ 75 mph. Ambient temp is 95*. Excursion currently has 240k miles on the clock.
This sound was first heard by my wife two weeks ago. I thought I had tire issues and they needed to be rotated. The sound is still present, and now identified only when the truck is in drive, and under load, regardless of me pulling a trailer.
Yesterday on my 500 mile trip, the truck hiccuped several times which I believe was around the time I was either moving in or out of overdrive. Details in a different thread: [URL] .....
Anyway, I've looked at all culprits and can't find anything with the motor, or electrical system. I can't get to a transmission shop until Monday, and won't have my AE until I get home Sunday night. I have a 500 mile run tomorrow. I checked the transmission fluid and it's at a good level, pink, and doesn't have a bad smell.
The last week or so I have been having a screeching belt sound driving me insane in my 2003 F-250 7.3. After further investigating I have found out it is coming from my 11 month old GTP38R bearing. It has an aftermarket billet compressor wheel in it and I sold the factory wheel when I installed the Billet wheel. Where to locate a factory Garrett GTP38R wheel? All I can find online are Billet wheels or random off brands. At this point I would even trade my Billet wheel for a factory 38R wheel.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford X diesel with the 7.3 engine. About 2 years ago whenever I would drive it during the summer, and I would shut it off and then a few minutes later tried starting it again, it would start. It doesn't even turn over or making a clicking sound but it acts like the motor is dead. The lights and all the electrical work, but it doesn't turn over at all. It will start back whenever it cools down. It doesn't happen during the winter time or when its cool outside, only when the weather is hot. I've replaced both batteries and the starter but nothing happens. Tonight it did it again and I have to wait 20-30 minutes in the parking lot until it would start again.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 f350. Lost power whole driving and won't start back up. I have checked all my fuses and relays several times. Have no power to the fuel pump. Tried running a hot wire straight to the pump and still nothing.checked my emergency cur off switch and there is no power there. Also my WTS light isn't coming on now. Tried checking the heater bowl and no power there.
View 6 RepliesWent to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
View 14 RepliesNew to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
My 2002 7.3 engine makes a slow tap sound...
View 2 RepliesSo I've been getting a whining sound coming from the transmission area. I checked my transmission fluid and it's nice and pink so I checked my transfer case fluid… It came out like black watery gear oil! How bad is this? I am putting synthetic Dex/Merc back in it. It's got me a tiny bit concerned.
View 9 RepliesI just wrapped up a full day's worth of tear down/reassembly chasing an oil leak at the turbo pedestal. while I had the turbo out I replaced the pedestal with a non-ebpv pedestal and replaced the outlet with a high flow outlet. I also removed the stock exhaust and replaced it with a 4" Turbo Back from MRPB. Once I got everything put back together I hit the highway to check out the new exhaust.
To my horror I started to hear a high pitched airhorn-like sound while accelerating. It sounds a lot like an old police siren... I'm wondering if this sounds like a turbo or simply a boost leak. I obviously had everything taken apart so a boost leak seems likely (still original boots with 191,000 miles). I've ordered new boots from RiffRaff but wanted to make sure it didn't sound like an exploding turbo and that I could safely drive it until I can fix the old boots.
Take a look (listen) at the video : [URL] ....
I have had a 2000 f250 crew cab for little over a year now. Two previous times, after heavy rains, the cabin light would blink on and i would get a buzzing sound under the dash. I would solve the annoying buzzing sound by opening and closing the door. After a few times, it would work, but my clock and radio could go on without the key in the on position. The next time i used it, no problems... so i put that worry in the back of my mind.
This morning it rained really heavy, sideways type of rain. I opened the door and noticed a small puddle on the vinyl floors right where my left foot goes. OH,oh i thought, but the truck turned over and ran like normal. I picked up a heavy load of hickory in the bed and hopped back in and noticed my speedometer jumping from 0- 30 when I was going about 35. The OD light was blinking, but the transmission shifted normally. I got up to about 1700 rpm and the speedo was barely jumping at 53-55. I make another stop to unload the wood and go back home and i get an intermittent buzzing sound on the way home and no speedo. OD light would start blinking before i hit 2nd gear. I also noticed the odometer not working (speedo related, right?)
I got home and took the fuse relay cover off and found that if I would remove the #1 relay "plug" (black square box 5 prongs) that dreaded buzzing sound would go away, checked it out , plugged it back in, buzzing back on. The clock light still stays on and radio will turn on without the key. I think that water obviously leaked in over something electrical and i have been searching this and other forms for a couple of hours. I am within a couple of weeks of saving up enough to buy the gauges, exhaust and possible DP Tuner and now this happens?
Well, today i had my first bout with tranny issues of any kind either before or after my BTS installation. After sitting all day at work, heading home, the shift i guess from 2-3 at about 40-50 mph shifted really hard, BANG. Heard a whirring/whining sound, lots of slipping with the TC. After a lil ways it was like it was in neutral.
Coasted to stop. Went thru the gears from park, rev, and drive about 3 times, got movement each time. Got out, looked for obvious, no fluids or linkages apparent. Drove thru town about 25-30 mph. Felt like it was "hunting" and shifted like a manual grinding gears. Got on highway and no overdrive and im thinking no high gear either.
Push button on shifter light changes, but no change in operation. Running 60 and rpms are turning 2700ish. Still "hunting". But while hunting it isn't wide rpm swings, just a small amount, not wide enough for a gear shift. I am thinking that its torque converter constantly engaging and disengaging.
While letting out of gas it coasts down with TC still locked up all the way down to about 1100 rpm before unlocking. Then I start seeing the OD light flashing. Ok, classic wire chafe in steering column. But it doesn't always flash, only sometimes. And fuses are good. Temps never got above 150 during this 50 mile drive.
So i get home (and its frigging dark already, i hate that this time of year) and I log on and start reading up on this again to refresh my memory. I had called Brian over at BTS when it happened as i was going down the road, he was busy at time. He called me after i got home and i explained and he talked me thru some things. Wanted me to pull the codes and get back with him tomorrow. I did that and the screen shot is below. I will talk more with Brian tomorrow.
But during some of my reading i think i came across some others that had similar trans codes and the issue ended up being the alternator. Alternator ? For trans issues? Is that right? I guess stranger things have happened. I have a high output alt waiting to be installed but haven't yet. I guess we shall see. Brian thinks it something telling the TC and trans to act that way. Doesn't think anything mechanical, yet, leaning towards electrical.