Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: No Start After Starter Replaced - Engine Won't Fire
May 28, 2016
I replaced my starter with a new one from car quest yesterday, it was starting to turn the engine over slow. I checked the batteries, they were fine, so went for a new starter. After installing, the new starter turned fast and fine, started the truck ok, but I noticed a fast clicking sound from under the dash. Ran it home and tried to start it up this morning, turns over fast, the clicking sound is still coming from under the dash, but the engine won't fire. Just turns over. When it's turning over the check engine (and all the other dash) lights flash.
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Friend's 2000 7.3 wont start, just crank and crank tried to fire but nothing in the cold leave it plugged in and it starts leave it in a shop over night and it starts with a shot of either, he is a truck driver and the truck will sometimes sits for 6 weeks at a time this time 2 weeks before I touched it. He wanted me to install a fuel pump so I did and started the following:
Cracked fuel lines to see if I had fuel psi at both heads
I tested glowplugs they all read at 0.3 on all 8
I have power to harness as the same at both sides of the relay
RPM tach jumps
Oil psi gauge rises
Using my phone I can read hpop and 2000 at cranking (how accurate that is im not 100% sure)
All fuses good
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I just replaced my up pipes, turbo pedestal O-ring, ICP, IPR, New O-rings in all my injectors and torqued to spec, new glow plugs, glow plug relay, oil loom wiring harness, new O-rings on oil cooler, oil filter, oil, and antifreeze. I have tried and tried on upwards of 75 or so time to get it to turn over. A little white smoke came out and it sounded like it wanted to fire up, but only a few times.
I have good batteries and a charger on it, 3-4 tries in 5-10 second bursts or longer if it doesn't lose power every 30 -hr. oil is in HPOP too. just found out my block heater is dead, but I shouldn't need it now. Tach moves a little when I crank it but only when my oil pressure gauge hits half way and that about the time it wants to start and starts white smoking.
2001 F-350 7.3 auto 2wd 4dr longbed 329,611 ml
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In the last 2 months I've replaced my starter and 2 new batteries. I've tested the alternator and it's fine. What more is there? I'm guessing the FICM is going to crap. If I attach a scangauge 2 to it now would it tell me if that's the problem?
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The night temperture was only about 37 degrees. But every morning my 2000 F-350 7.3 crew cab 188,000 on it would not start. The first try there would be a split second where the motor would fire, but that would be it. I had to plug the engine block heater into my generator for at least an hour before it would start. I don't see how all the glow plugs could be bad at once??
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My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil.
I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
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I have a 99 F450 bucket truck. I was up in the bucket when the engine died suddenly. It turns over but won't fire. I have no dash warning lights now either but everything else seems to be working. Lights, radio, annoying beeping sound from the key left in the ignition, etc. There are roughly 5 or 6 fuses in the panel to the lower left of the steering column that don't have power to them. Are they all supposed to have power when the ignition is on? I checked the fuse panel under the hood and all of the fuses that have 12V to them are good. There are a few small ones that don't have power to them but I don't think they do all the time.
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This started out as a turbo pedestal O-ring change (leak down the back of the engine). Since I was going to take everything out to do that I figured I'd reseal the fuel bowl and hpop. Wound up replacing the up-pipes as well. Went ahead and changed the ICP and CPS. The truck started rather easy as I've heard its hard to get the air out. I drove it about ten minutes and then noticed it was leaking oil so I went back to check it. I found that it was leaking from one of the output fittings on the hpop as I guess when I tightened it back up after putting on new orings I damaged the pump by over tightening.
The oring and fitting were fine it was on the pump threads I guess. Anyway trucks got 280k miles so I just bought a new hpop from the stealership. Went home and installed it and the truck won't start. Pulled ICP out and cranked no oil coming out. The only other thing would be ipr (I cleaned with brake cleaner and air tip before putting in the new pump) so just to know for sure I bought a new IPR from the stealership and still NO Start. I didn't fool with anything else don't know what it could be. I checked the bolt in the front cover (tight), got to be a BAD (new) pump right.
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Four months when you tried to start the vehicle sometimes you will hear the starter. Drive in gauge but not meet the flywheel. Sometimes it would take three or four tries to turn over the engine. Yesterday went out to start the engine turn the key nothing happen no noise nothing but all the lights were working OK..
The repair shop said it was not the starter but flywheel missing teeth. But they said the main thing wrong is a need of new battery terminals. They change them in the truck started fine last night Today when my wife try to start it then come home saying thing happen nothing no sound, no nothing. Am I dealing with a bad starter solenoid perhaps or a combination of a bad flywheel??
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I was driving the truck a couple of weeks ago and it just died. I costed to the side of the road. It cranked but would not start. noticed the WTS light was not on. I bought a new one from dealership and installed it and it started right up. I assumed I fixed it. I let it warm up and drove it around the block and parked it and plugged the battery tender back up. the other day I got in and no WTS light again.
I was going to look at wire bundle over valve cover and 42 pin connector. Is there any other issues, I need to look at? Is it possible I just got a bad sensor? My guess would be something is shorting the sensor out if thats the problem so before I just put a new one in I thought I would ask the pro's. I have not done a lot of work to my truck aside from replacing the water pump, hoses and coolant.
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I replaced the glow plugs and gpr and the truck won't start. I'm also having to replace the water fuel separator. What is going on? 1999 F250 7.3l ....
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Just replaced all hpop orings. Injectors loud after start up at idle. Guessing air in lines. How long do I need to drive before all air out of lines and everything back to normal?
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Yesterday my truck began to give me some problems starting. The engine turns over just a couple of times then it sounds like the starter disengages and winds up. it took multiple attempts but it finally fired up. Does this sound like the starter or could it possibly be the starter relay?
2002 F350 CCLB Lariat 7.3
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So I've had my 2003 F-250 power stroke 6.0 for over a year now and replaced the oil with AMS oil which is good for 50,000 miles to a year as well as the oil filter which is guaranteed the same thing. I've only put 5,000 miles on it since I've owned it and made sure to let the engine heat up before going anywhere as well. Recently my engine bogged down and then had problems starting I was able to limp the last 2 miles to work but haven't been able to get it running since.
I replaced the camshaft position sensor and it fired up but once it was running it the rpm gauge dropped below 1000 RPMs it would stall out. Before it didn't have any smoke coming from the engine compartment however now when it starts it does. Is this because there's oil the possibly leaked onto something or fuel? What do I or should I look at to get it fixed?
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E99 zf6 180k. Ts 6 position and 6637. Just found d out the oil was 25000 miles old and changed it. 400 mile trip followed by a few days in town with no problems. Shut it off warm and it won't refire. Takes 3 loooong cranks. Few minutes later it restarts hard but not as hard. Head out for a few hundred mile trip and it's running fine except all of a sudden "bucks" a few times within a couple hour window. I took data during the trip and never saw anything strange. Today a cold start, around town driving, and warm restart were all normal.
My thoughts are to
1. Verify steady fuel pressure (I only have a temporary gauge setup)
2. Check the fuel filter for oil.
3. Pull the valve covers to look for injector oil leaks.
#3, though, I dunno if it's worth it. Perdels look fine and icp seems to be about the same as it always has.
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My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil. I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. If you need any info off the scangauge let me know and I will post the exact readings. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
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I am having trouble getting my 2000 7.3 (200k) to start on the colder mornings. It will crank over fast, but won't start without a lot of tries. Today it took 6 pre-heats and cranks, but on others (and colder days) it has started easier. It does seem to be getting worse though.
I have replaced the glow plug relay recently so it *shouldn't* be that unless the replacement is fried. Starts fine the rest of the day and drives fine, but not in the cooler am (it was about 34 this morning). I also tested the batteries yesterday and while they aren't new, they tested okay.
Also, I read (briefly) about the CPS, but forgot to watch the tach this morning, but did notice it is pushing smoke out when turning over.
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2002 7.3 PS TD.
Lately sometimes when I get in and start the truck all is well. Then the next time it will spin like a top, but not fire. New batteries. Then it will fire right up. It may go a few weeks, or days, then it happens again. Temperature does not seem to be a factor. It also doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold. Once when rounding a corner at low speed, it just died, then started right up.
I recently changed the fuel and air filters. I think the glow plugs are getting old. In cool weather I turn the key on for about 1 min. before cranking. I have 110,000 on the engine with all original parts.
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2002 7.3 Power Stroke... I bought the truck about 4 months ago and I absolutely love it but over the last few weeks is has been acting funny at times, it doesn't do it all the time but it has been getting progressively worse, ill drive the truck all day and no problems when I shut it off and go to start it again it just cranks but won't fire.
* Batteries are charged and in good condition, oil is a little dirty but full, I have no codes or check engine light on, and my wait to start light seems to be working fine!
* If I supply a fuel source(starting fluid) the truck will fire but not stay running
* And let it sit for 15 to 45 minutes fires right up like there was never an issue.
* There are no blown fuses
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What might be going wrong with my 2003 Celica GT? The problem is that it infrequently is taking longer to start. The starter turns over the engine, but it does not fire. It continues for a considerably longer time to crank the engine, then finally it fires and starts. Could it be that the fuel pump is beginning to fail?
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Owning a 2001 F250 Extended cab with a 7.3 I have not had a lot of questions to ask fortunately.
My truck has spent a lot more time sitting than running lately and when I went to start it the other day it cranked fine but would not fire. Quick read on this forum and the first thing I found was how if the fuel solenoid had less than 10.8 volts when cranking it would not start.
I went down and checked the battery voltage and it was at 12.1 volts no load. I put the battery charger on for about 10 hours (time to kill) and when I pulled the charger and cranked it over, started with no problem.
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