Cruising down the street in my 7.3, i come to a stop, and I go to accelerate, and there's no power. It says "service engine soon" so if I try to turn it over again it'll just crank. But if I turn the key off and back on, it'll start right up. It's done this 3 times.
View 5 RepliesI have hesitation as I accelerate especially starting from a stop. It will continue until cruising speed. Funny thing is when I put the cruse control on the hesitation stops and it runs fine. If I want to accelerate while on cruse the hesitation starts again until I let off the accelerator. Is it the TPS ? I changed it two months ago.
View 8 RepliesI was wondering if fuel injectors throw a code when it goes out. I have a 02 7.3 been running rough when you accelerate bogs down and looses power not sure but sometimes gas light would come on knowing I have gas in it could that be a sign of the sending unite and that's why it runs rough..
View 3 RepliesWe have a 2002 7.3 f350 2wd this darn thing is now tripping me out. At first when ou start the truck its all good but when it warms up the idle is funky when you go to stop at a lite its like im power breaking and rough idle once stopped the idle is about between 800 and 900rpms at a stop really high idle but plenty of power on take off...
View 2 RepliesWhen my 99.5 SD is cold ( 50-60 f) it smokes a lot of white horrible smelling smoke for the first 2-4 minutes. If plugged in the block heater it doesn't do it. Also when cold, when you accelerate the SES light comes on until you let off on the throttle then it goes off. Even going 10mph in low rpm? Once engine is up to temp it doesn't do it anymore. It seems to run fine otherwise. I do have 2, 700 CCA Napa batteries that are from 2011 which I plan on replacing next month with Motorcraft Maxx 850 CCA.
I have replaced the UVCH, CPS, Fresh Oil and put additives in my fuel. I have even disconnected my DP Tuner F5 and it still does it. I have AE with ford bundle and it seems like my HPOP seems to be working fine as well as buzz test and glow plug. Could it be an injector ( I have stage1 casserly from full force)? What about a sensor not working? It has always smoked since I have had it ( about 3 years) but the SES light issue has only been happening since my IDM was replaced and I had a mechanic work on it.
No start. Changed starter solenoid. Changed starter. Now it runs although when I turn the key to the off position and remove it the engine continues. The only way to get it to shut down is remove the small wire from the positive on the battery and then turning the key to the off position or vise versa. The machine seems to be pulling power even when completely shut down. The batteries drain power with "nothing on" i d m shot? Someone stop me before I go to the dealer.
View 5 RepliesI know there are a few threads floating around regarding truck dieing, but mine is slightly different than the others, maybe its the same culprit, maybe not, but i thought i would start a new thread just in case.
First, I commute about 50 miles to work everyday, truck gets plenty of interstate highway run time, smooth as silk. About a month and half ago when i almost got to work I slowed to stop at a red light. As I came to a stop the truck "stumbled". Acted like it wanted to die but caught itself and kept going. I said whooaaaa girl, what this? Ive had this truck for almost 10 yrs now and never anything like this. About a week or so later, same commute, same red light, cept this time it dies. Starts right back up no problem. Just acted like someone turned the key off.
Then a week or so after that, while driving home this time, as I pulled up at the house to check the mail at the mailbox, when i came to a stop it died. Cranked right back up. Before I could put in drive, it died again. Cranked right back up and i drove on into the driveway. Then a few days later, while checking the mail again, it died again. Cranked up immediately and parked.
Today, while driving home, after i had gotten back to town, but before i got home i made a stop at bank drive thru, when i came to a stop, it died. While cranking it wanted to start and kind of stumbled on itself and died. Then it cranked right up and i came on home no problem.
So far it only occurs after approx 45min to 1 hr of operating time so the engine and everything else are at temp and far from cold. After reading thru some of the other threads of similar but different conditions (cold start dieing, dieing while under power, etc) Im getting flooded with ideas of what could cause it, but not settled on any.
1.Could be failing ICP? (original, has never been changed, 317k+).
2.Could be plugged fuel filters? (been a while since changing, approx 30k+)
3.Could related to one of my own earlier threads regarding possible failing alternator (when rpms drop can volts drop enough to kill engine?)
4.Could be loose ignition switch? (about 2 yrs ago i had to swap the blinker switch, to get to it had to remove the ignition. Upon re-installation the switch never did get tight as before and was loose. Been loose ever since. To the point that with key out of ignition and door ajar i will get the door chime as if the key was in ignition. I can bump the ignition, and chime goes away. Been this way for two years and no apparent problems. Until now maybe?)
I was thinking ICP after a few of the other threads, but after tonight Im leaning towards the ignition switch. I guess i can try to wiggle the switch after cranking tomorrow and see what that does for a trouble shooting effort. Is there a way to trouble shoot the ICP to see if its failing or not? Isn't that a fairly costly sensor? Would hate to buy one and not be the cause, but after 317k i may need to buy before too long anyway.
So about 3-4 times per day, my truck will accelerate very quickly with the slightest touch of the gas pedal, then followed by the service engine soon light...I checked for any codes to see what I may need to fix, but no codes are found.
What this could be? I am also having issues to where I a few times per day I have to put my truck in neutral to get it to start instead of in park...could the two be related?
The other day while at a stop sign in my e99 F450, I went to take off and stalled. I am not sure if the stall was my fault or not; however, it would not start. I turned the key on and the wait to start light did not come on.
The first thing I checked was the mini 30 amp fuse under the dash that controls the GRP and the fuel bowl heater. The fuse was good, and my heater has been unplugged for a while anyway. Recently my SES light came on with codes that said the glow plugs had low voltage for both banks. I have cleaned the wires a couple times and the light goes out but then comes back on after a minute or so.
I figured that maybe if it was a bad wire it finally went bad so I got jumper cables and started to try and jump wires. I moved them around and found that when I hooked one side to the positive battery terminal and the other to the small key hot wire on the glow plug relay, the light would come on and it would start. I left the cables hooked up and drove the couple miles back home.
After messing with it I figured I could run a new wire. I got a fuse tap, and went from the 30 amp mini fuse that controls this system anyway, and ran it up to the post on the GPR for my new keyed hot wire. The WTS light would cycle and it would crank, but no start. After some more messing around I decided to put both the original wire back onto the post with the new wire that I had just put on; after doing this it started right up. I took it for a test drive and a couple times the engine would act like it stalled, only for a split second. When looking down at the dash immediately after the tach would be at normal RPM and the WTS light would be on, as if I shut the key off and tried to start it again.
I suspect it is the original key hot wire that goes to the GPR. It appears that this wire also has a purpose, other then serving as only a keyed hot wire for the GPR. It has about 6 inches off of the GPR, then it goes into the harness. Where that wire goes? I will just run a new wire instead of having to dig through that harness... that doesn't look like something I would wish upon my worst enemy.
Well, I think my clutch is falling apart. I am hearing an intermittent nasty noise coming from somewhere in the bell housing/oil pan area. It comes and goes, but seems to be more frequent lately. It sounds like a dryer that somebody threw a pair of sneakers and some rocks in; with a metallic clunking noise of something being "churned" around. As I said, sounds almost exactly like the dryer thing.
The clutch does not seem to be slipping, but I do occasionally have difficulty getting it into gear at a stop. I'm guessing that the clutch disc has thrown a hub spring, and its rattling around in the bell housing. Assuming I need a clutch; which I think I do, I need selecting one. I have no history on the clutch or flywheel, so I will assume that I need a new flywheel to match whatever clutch I get.
I can't get a stock replacement, due to the injectors/chip/etc.... I would estimate I am making about 350hp/700ft-lbs. I don't tow currently, but I may pull a car trailer in the future. I DO haul heavy loads in the bed (4,000lbs) on a regular basis. I also drive/shift aggressively, as well as shifting quickly. While I spend a decent amount of time on the highway, I also do a lot of stop and go stuck in traffic driving; so smooth engagement is important. So, no ceramic/ceramic in/out type clutches.
I do NOT want a South Bend. I don't want a super soft pedal. Also, the whole pedal-sticking-to-the-floor thing they mention is unacceptable. Personally, I think they should be ashamed of themselves for putting out a product with such an obvious unsafe design/engineering flaw, and then try to explain it away as "normal". Nope. They need to go back to the drawing board and fix that. As I said, it constitutes a serious safety hazard.
I recently had a flat tire - Schwabs fixed it. Then told me my rear brakes were bad so I replaced them. I noticed when coming to a stop the last 20-30 feet you can really feel the front end vibrate - almost like it is in 4wd but it is not. I checked the hubs and they are on auto and lifted the truck to spin the wheels and made sure everything was dis-engaged. My front rotors were bad so I replaced them and the pads thinking it was the root cause. I also greased the front wheel bearings using the little tool from riffraff diesel where you take out the speed sensor and insert grease.
View 10 RepliesFor the past few months my bower motor will stop working. It could stop while I'm driving. Or not work when i start the truck, then start working while I'm driving down the road. When it was working it worked fine. It had the different fan speeds like it was supposed to. It would just not work at all, or work fine. Now it doesn't work at all. I checked all fuses, and swapped the relay for the windshield wiper relay that i know works and still nothing.
I unplugged the blower motor and put 12v to it and it didn't work so i thought i found the problem. Took out the blower motor put power to it again and it spun just fine. Plugged it back into the harness and it worked other than no low speed. Flipped the switch back and forth, then low speed worked, up to high, but no difference between speed 2-3. Put it all back together and it seemed like all the speeds were working fine. Day later, won't work at all again.
Have a 2003 F-250 with 174,000 miles. Recently replaced CPS and ICP and it's running much better. It normally idles at about 700 rpm. Lately, after driving for any distance above ~40mph, when I come to a stop, the rpm won't drop below about 850 rpm. If I shift to neutral (automatic trans), the idle drops to around 700. At the next stop sign/light, it's back up to around 850.
View 11 RepliesMy 2001 f250 7.3 was running then just shut off like I had turned the key off, While trying to start back up, the truck turns over fine but no fire. I also have no gauges, I tested both fuse boxes and the one under the hood I have power on all big fuses, including the PCM but some of the small ones I don't, No power to the PCM diode, either side, the fuse box inside the cab, I have half power, No power to the PCM fuse is their a fusible link somewhere?
I really can't see much down there. The truck did get into a accident in Oct, which created a problem with the ignition and not sure if that could be a problem? That problem is, when I turn the vehicle off, it would stay running for a few seconds. I ignored the problem cause it didn't hinder the vehicle any.
This truck has done it since I got (6 months ago). When I take off from a stop that is a clunk. It a bit like towing a trailer with surge brakes. Do they all do it? 2000 Extend cab 4X4 auto 235K miles.
View 14 RepliesI recently started noticing that when I am coming to a stop(usually a quick stop), the trucks rpms drop to low. hard to tell how low but looks like around 450-500 rpms. I can feel the truck struggle just for a second then the rpms bounce back to 650-700. i was sitting in my truck while in park and was revving up to about 1200 and then let off the pedal and it died. My positive battery terminals are getting pretty bad and am going to replace them soon(waiting on parts). Could this be the cause?
View 14 RepliesI am pretty sure my pedal is going.. Today and last month it would just die from a dead stop push the pedal and no go, but truck idling fine. I cleaned it off a few weeks ago but now its back. push pedal in and out a few times and all is fine for a few weeks. Truck runs fine other than that. Does not throw a code, just trans light comes on because no movement I think, then it goes off as soon as i start to move along. I have a adjustable pedal assembly 2c3z-9f836-de 508.45 at white bear lake ford.
View 1 RepliesI have a 02 PSD, and sometimes after I start it up my radio and power windows do not work. I have a red "security" light on my Kenwood radio that turns on when the truck is off. That light keeps flashing after I turned on the truck so I know it's still getting power, but for some reason it thinks the truck is off, and the windows don't go down. Other days it works perfectly fine, sometimes the radio and windows will stop working after driving normal.
At first it was a routine where I knew they'd start working shortly. But today was the last straw, I drove into work with no radio and windows not rolling down for 30 miles. Of course after I park, I turn off the truck, turn it back on and everything comes on like nothing ever happened. What can be causing this, I have checked all the wiring, no kinks, cuts, nothing. I remember reading something about a relay that can cause this but can't find that info.
I have a 2000 F-350 dually. I am having an intermittent problem with the the OD light. The symptoms are after coming to a complete stop the OD light starts flashing and when trying to move forward it feels as if the brakes are dragging and sometimes stalls out the engine. The codes read with a Superchip 1705 are p1670,p0720, and P0503. When I shift into park, the engine rpms jump from idle to about 1500-1600. I have replaced both the differential VSS and the transmission OSS but still have the same problem.
View 4 RepliesFor probably years, I have had a bump, thump type noise when I start from a dead stop... say at a red light. I had it in my head, maybe there was that much slop in the drive train... as old truck is over 400,000 miles.
Yesterday, I rebuilt the driver's side axle, bearing,seals, new hub...the works.. I heard that noise again later... and my thoughts were, I did all that work and I'm going to find a lower/upper ball joint is bad, although I did look at them and thought they were fine during the rebuild.
Had my wife get in truck.... and swing wheel back & forth... so maybe I could see what was loose.. or making noise.
I was shocked... just something I never thought of looking at. The u-bolts holding the leaf springs were loose... the whole axle was shifting back and forth on the axle. I've never touched those bolts....
I have a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3l with 199,980 miles on it.
It has a TS-6. My first problem is that when I come to a stop or slow down to a crawl then press the accelerator the engine stalls and dies. I have looked and looked at threads and can not find this example anywhere. There is no pressing the pedal and it remains at idle. It dies, shuts off, quiets. I have thought icp, tps, ivs
Second problem is that a/c is blowing hot. Other than being out of Freon, what could be other things to check. It does sometime go to default, but has done so in awhile. It does not blow cold in rear and hot in front. They both blow hot. I have replaced the pvh sensor.