Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: No WTS Light / Shuts Off When Warming Up
Jan 3, 2016
Having issues for a couple days now. Starting with the last two weeks while driving, the water in fuel, wait to start, and check engine lights would flash on. It would resume with more fuel as if nothing happened. Twice on separate days there was enough water that it shut it down in the middle of driving and it would have to be parked then restarted. One morning went out to start the truck, was inside for about 10 minutes and heard the truck shut off. Went out to see if it would restart and there was no wait to start light. Fuses have been checked and none are blown. Been shutting off like this for a couple days while trying to warm up, so it hasn't been driven because it hasn't ran long enough. Yes it's plugged in because of the cold.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3 4WD automatic with 313,000 miles. A week ago it started stalling after it idled for 10 minutes. It acted like it wasn't getting fuel. It would sputter a few times then just quit. I changed the fuel filter and the truck ran fine the rest of the day. Since that day, it has acted the same way every morning at 1st startup. It idles fine for 10-20 minutes (depending on how cold it is outside), then hesitates a little, then stops. After going through 3 new fuel filters (thinking I had bad fuel), I stopped putting in a new filter every morning, and found that if I just waited 4 or 5 minutes, it would start and run fine after that. It then runs fine the rest of the day.
After it stalls, it will not start right away. I need to wait a few minutes. I've tried draining the fuel filter bowl also. No luck. I tried a new Cam Positioning Sensor. It seems to be related to temperature. It's been getting down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit the past few mornings. It starts fine and idles fine until the temp gauge just starts to move. Then, the stall happens. My fill-up just prior to this happening was with B20 Bio Diesel. I suspected that for a while. But, I've ran all that fuel through plus 4 or 5 regular diesel tanks through, so I no longer think it was related to that. It do see the check engine light when it stalls. I had a shop read my codes and the only code was bad KAM memory. The mechanic said that code shows up all the time on these engines and not to worry about it.
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I have noticed thru the cold months after I start my 2001 F250 7.3L 4X4 after it sits about a minute "warming up" that it goes into a high idle. The high idle will stop once I press the brakes. Is this normal?
I think this is a unrelated issue, but just started over the weekend. Was riding home, and pressed my brakes and the pedal moved almost to the floor. Not normal conditions for my truck. Usually the pedal is very stiff. I have noticed that my power steering pump has had a hum for months. I changed the fluid (ATF Mercon) within the last 6k miles and that calmed it down a bit.
After the pedal went to the floor, the hum seemed to quieten down even more. The power steering still works and the reservoir has adequate fluid and so does the brake fluid reservoir. I haven't noticed any leaks around the truck. I'm going to bleed the brake in an hour or so. The brakes pedal seems stiff when I press it after the high idle, but then it gets soft after a pump or two.
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I hear a whoosh whoosh whoosh sound coming from the exhaust when its warming up in the morning. What is happening?
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My 99 250, 7.3 is having some strange issues as of lately. When I start it in the morning, when the engine has fully cooled down, it starts right up, then it throws the "wait to start light" runs real rough and just shuts off. Run the glow plugs a few times, start it up and it will do the same thing for maximum 30 minutes, then all the sudden I start it and it runs fine. I've replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel bowl, new fuel filter, I just don't know where my problem could be. It doesn't make sense. But once I get it running and it warms up, runs fine all day. Go to bed, wake up, has problems again.
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Headed to town with the kids and my truck shuts off going down highway. I pull over and start it back up and make it to 30mph and shuts off again. This time it will not start. I have 1/4 tank of fuel, I first thought it maybe the issue inside the tank causing it to shut off. I get some diesel pour it in and it fires up for about 15 secs and shuts off. I pull the fuel filter, making sure o have fuel in the bowl. Start it up and it runs for about 10 sec. I then swap out the CPS. Same thing, runs about 20 and cuts off. I then call AAA because I am tired and ready to go home. I have it towed to my buddy's shop. He has not looked at it yet.
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This started about 6 weeks ago. While sitting at a stop light the motor cut out. After some research I replaced the cps. Truck ran fine for about 3 weeks, then shut down again while pulling into the driveway of a store. Replaced the cps again (this time with a ford one). Ran fine for another 3 weeks, then shut down again on the freeway. No CEL on any occasion.
It's just like someone turned the key off. No rough idling at all. No smoke during starting or driving. When it shuts down, it will not start again for 20-30 minutes, no matter how many time you crank it. It will just turn over, no sputter. When it fires up again there is no air in the lines either, it runs like nothing happened.
I'm now thinking it might be a ipr issue...is there a way I can check myself or does it need to go to the mechanic? Or is it something completely different? This is my mother in laws daily driver, 178k. She does not drive on the freeway, 80% of the mileage is city driving. What could be going on?
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I have a 99 f350 Ford 7.3 service truck. It will crank and run but when it gets to 150 or 180 degrees it shuts off and will not crank back until it cools off. I have change the ECM I have change the IDM still same thing it runs till gets hot and then it cuts off. I have changed IPR valve IPC sensor .check the high pressure oil pressure it is around 800 900 at an idle it is around that pressure but when first starts up it is higher once it starts and runs it idles around that pressure 800 900 psi....
I have hooked up my scanner and it shows around 150 degrees oil temperature it shuts off . The high pressure oil stays the same as it was when you first crank it the low pressure crankcase oil is 60 psi ... Once the oil temperature reaches around 150 ~160 degrees the engine will shut off . Once you let it sit overnight or for several hours it might crank up ....
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My 2001 F350 7.3 dually diesel Automatic has been a pretty good truck but recently it has been dying. Engine just randomly shuts off without warning while Driving. Check engine light comes on sometimes. Some of the time it will restart if I cycle the key. Once its running again I can rev the engine up without a sputter but after a few hundred yards down the road it will die again. I noticed driving on the highway when it does it my truck will buck first, then...
If I leave it in drive with the key in the run position when it dies and I'm coasting down the highway the Tach starts jumping around like its trying to restart itself, all on its own. I don't have a scanner.
The last time it died I coasted into my driveway and it wouldn't restart, went back out there 30 minutes later and it fired right up. Its only 40 degrees here if that matters, not hot by any means.
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I have an 03 f250 that i think is getting air in the fuel line when it sits. It turns over starts and immediately shuts off. Then i have to crank it for a minute or so before it will start. After that it is good all day. Next day it might sputter on start but stays on. More than a day it shuts off immediately and needs cranking for a minute...
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Came on other day. No ses light or fault codes. What it means?
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Last week my battery light came on for the first time in years. I have a 185 amp DC Power alternator after dealing with so many bad oem ones.
Anyways, battery light came on when i pulled up to a stop sign. I proceeded to plug my sct x4 in to see what the voltage was, with the battery light it was 11.50. I shut the truck off started it back up, no light and voltage was 13.7. Went through the stop sign got into some more traffic, started to accelerate again and this is when the truck shuts off for the first time. Put it in neutral, and it started right back up.
Several days later it shut off on me two times back to back. It was a cold start, and both times the battery light was on and the truck would die within 30 seconds. Third start it kept running fine.
This past Saturday morning battery light was on, let it idle for awhile then as i tried to park it in the garage it shut off. Started it up, no light so it ran fine. Later when i started the truck it shut off again. So it has shut off on me 5 times in the last week.
Some more background on the truck:
2005, 199k miles
Well maintained (T6 every 5k, filters every 15k, etc.)
The injectors are going bad, it started running rough saturday 1/9/16, just a couple days before it started shutting off.
I used to a sct x4 to pull codes, i have p2237 (if i remember right) which is an intermittent icp signal. I replaced the pigtail and icp less than a year ago because of the same code.
And three codes for glow plug solenoid open on 5, 6, and 7.
No ipr codes
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Got to thinking today while my truck was warming up, why does the exhaust smell so bad. I think it is kinda interesting that the exhaust pipe is so clean also, like new matter of fact.
So what make the exhaust smell? The exhaust filter traps the partials right but where did the diesel smell go? I can understand it when in regen but in normal operation I don't get it. I guess I just don't the mechanics behind it. All I do know is that, what is left just stinks especially when warming up.
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I have some LED strips i bought, some i am going to install under the door sills to light my nerf bars/steps. The rest i am installing under the bed rail to light the inside of the bed. I want them to come on with the interior lights. So when i hit the unlock button on my key fob, or open the door said lights will come on.
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My buddy is selling his truck in a couple days and was taking out speakers, afe intake, and satelite radio. I go to start the truck and i have no power to windows, no power to radio and no domelight when i switch it on and off. Dont know what i did but none of this works and everything else does.
I checked all fused all were good. I searched the forum for a solution and they said something about the automatic delay relay and i bought a new one and nothing still. I am not sure what else to do i checked with voltmeter if i had anypower to the window or radio and nothing. But the radios clock works and when i turn on the light it illuminates but doesnt turn on.
The truck is a 2002 7.3L Crewcab. f350
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I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
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We have a 2002 7.3 f350 2wd this darn thing is now tripping me out. At first when ou start the truck its all good but when it warms up the idle is funky when you go to stop at a lite its like im power breaking and rough idle once stopped the idle is about between 800 and 900rpms at a stop really high idle but plenty of power on take off...
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My 99 F350 cranks, but won't start, and the "water in fuel" light on the dash stays on while cranking. I have never paid close attention to it in the past. Is it supposed to be on while cranking?
I drained the water from the yellow lever located on top of the engine, and tried to start it. The light went off for the first few cranks, but again the truck still will not start.
I just came from a 10 hours round trip to NC. I filled the truck up two times from gas stations on the way. Is it possible that the fuel is bad? I drove on the same fuel almost 3/4 of this tank and now at the last 1/4 I am having this issue.
A little update:
I took the top of the fuel bowl off to see what the filter looks like, and it is nasty and completely black. I could not tell if the fuel in the bowl contained any water, but it looks greenish and uniform, no the obvious separation that happens when you mix water and oil.
Could the fuel filter be the problem?
A little history about the truck. It's always hard to start if cold and not plugged in overnight. I know it's the glow plugs relay, so I just keep it plugged in all the time until I get a chance to fix it.
IDM was acting up shutting off half of my engine, but I took it off, cleaned it, plugged it back in and it has been working fine for over 2 months.
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The past few weeks the dashboard warning light for my alternator/battery will occasionally light up while driving down the road. Whenever it does, my plug in voltage meter shows a healthy 14.x reading. It usually goes out after a few seconds, but will stay lit up for as much as thirty seconds. So other than voltage being too high or too low, what else will cause the dash trouble light to illuminate?
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Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
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I just bought a 1999 F250 SD 7.3 turbo I am new to the diesel world. but love it so far.
The wts light does not come on. I did do research on this and also took it into a shop for a safety inspection. They said it was the glow plug relay but could not change it out till Monday.
I took it upon my self and changed it out. So she starts up ok no real problem but I still have no wts light and she runs fine other wise.
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