Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: No Start After HPOP Reseal
Aug 10, 2015
Pulled the HPOP reseal an oring that was leaking oil. Feel confident that I made sure the check ball stayed in place. Torqued the bolt to 96 ft lbs. Have fuel in the bowl.
We have cycled the starter about 20 times for 15 to 20 seconds. Batteries are charged.
Here is what the AE scan tool is saying after a few seconds of cranking:
ICP -160
IPR - 0.43
Duty - 63.67
Do I need to get a different reading/test.
I have read about stuck open IPR valve giving the low pressure problem, but the truck was running prior to pulling the HPOP.
Lets say I left out the check ball. Would the scan tool show 0 pressure? (Trying to rule out the check ball)
How about if I didn't get the spring seated in the high pressure oil fitting and instead it is hung on the threads and is compressed inside the HPOP. Could that be the case?
Not for sure it makes a difference, but the truck did fire off once on Ether for second.
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This started out as a turbo pedestal O-ring change (leak down the back of the engine). Since I was going to take everything out to do that I figured I'd reseal the fuel bowl and hpop. Wound up replacing the up-pipes as well. Went ahead and changed the ICP and CPS. The truck started rather easy as I've heard its hard to get the air out. I drove it about ten minutes and then noticed it was leaking oil so I went back to check it. I found that it was leaking from one of the output fittings on the hpop as I guess when I tightened it back up after putting on new orings I damaged the pump by over tightening.
The oring and fitting were fine it was on the pump threads I guess. Anyway trucks got 280k miles so I just bought a new hpop from the stealership. Went home and installed it and the truck won't start. Pulled ICP out and cranked no oil coming out. The only other thing would be ipr (I cleaned with brake cleaner and air tip before putting in the new pump) so just to know for sure I bought a new IPR from the stealership and still NO Start. I didn't fool with anything else don't know what it could be. I checked the bolt in the front cover (tight), got to be a BAD (new) pump right.
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Removed and resealed HPOP and fuel bowl. Now she won't start. Ran fine before pump & bowl was serviced. I had leakage that I wanted to clear up. I have made no less than eight 15-20 sec start attempts with out even a cough. Reservoir is full, fuel in bowl and over 140 RPM when cranking.
AE info:
IPC duty cycle - rises to over 60% during cranking
IPC voltage - .18 all the time
IPC psi - 0 all the time
I did verify I placed the ball between the pump face and the "non serviceable" pin. I did leave out the spring and check valve seat from one of the output connectors. That has been corrected.
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I'm having Hard start when Hot problems, starts fine when cold. It takes a couple of minutes of cranking for ICP numbers to hit 500.
So far I've replaced:
ICP sensor
IPR
Injector O-rings.
Still didn't fix the problem.
I also washed out the engine, and put uv dye in the oil, let it run, to find any external leaks, but I found nothing. I don't thing it's the HPOP, because it's able to sustain high ICP numbers when I hold down the throttle.
My next step was to remove the HPOP and replace all it's o-rings, but I assume since I don't see any leaks, the o-rings aren't the problem. Is there anything else to check, that could be causing low crank ICP numbers when hot?
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Just replaced all hpop orings. Injectors loud after start up at idle. Guessing air in lines. How long do I need to drive before all air out of lines and everything back to normal?
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I did the extended seal kit and non-serviceable plug on my HPOP and now the CEL is on. It is throwing the below codes. The truck in all reality runs fine and even a little better on a cold start than before resealing, just the CEL is on.
P1280
P1209
P1282
P1212
P1211
I cleaned the IPR when it was out when I put new seals on it but could it go bad by just taking it apart? The ICP and IPR are definitely plugged in. The truck is all stock, no chips.
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I started "Hard Start at Operating Temperature" you can probably tell that 300k has done a number on my HPOP. I'm wondering what to do... do I buy a new pump from ford? Buy from ebay? Or is there a good pump rebuilder in the Portland metro area? I've heard they are almost impossible to rebuild.
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So I have a 2002 7.3 Excursion and I think it is low on power. ICP is falling on its face when on a 60 or 80 HP tune. I have some boost leaks at the plenums and will work on that but that shouldn't cause my ICP to tank at full throttle. Following are some numbers I pulled with WOT runs up a 6% grade.
16PSI BOOST
EXHAUST PRESSURE 40
ICP 1900
80%IPRDC
this is with the 60 or 80HP tune on my DP-tuner. If I ease into the throttle I get
2700 ICP with
45%IPRDC
but if I stomp on the throttle it stumbles and ICP tanks.
Running the stock tune I can maintain
2700ICP at
40-45%IPRDC
Is this my HPOP being weak, or worn out injectors, to much of a tune or a combo of all three?
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Do I have to remove my fuel filter and bowl to attempt a repair on my HPOP leak?
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The leak drains into the first valley of the block. This is after a cleaning and about 300 miles driving. I thought it may be the IPR but, it's looking pretty dry:
Some more pics .....
The HPOP line fittings are dry too. Where else do there the HPOP's tend to dribble a leak of oil from?
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I have a 7.3 and I think it's leaking oil out of the HPOP but I'm really not positive.
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Well my hpop is cracked and leaking alot I need to get home this sucks I must of tighted it too hard
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I need to get the HPOP reservoir top cover off so I can drill/tap a gauge probe into it.
I see torque-head bolts, and a few long bolts that go all the way down into the HPOP.
Unfortunately I cannot get two of the torque-head bolts out because they only un-thread several rotations before the heads of the bolts hit the edge of the fuel filter canister/bowl.
Any tips or tricks?
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I need to get the HPOP reservoir top cover off so I can drill/tap a gauge probe into it. I see torque-head bolts, and a few long bolts that go all the way down into the HPOP.
Unfortunately I cannot get two of the torque-head bolts out because they only un-thread several rotations before the heads of the bolts hit the edge of the fuel filter canister/bowl.
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about to fix my leaking HPOP and step up to an Adrenaline. Looking at replacing the discharge fittings when I do and have a quick question. Dieselsite instructions say the oring seals it and to only run it down to where the fitting body touches the pump. Diesel orings instructions say the 680 locktite does the sealing and to torque to 25 ft/lbs.
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What's better good options on a upgraded HPOP? As of now I have a stocker, it's getting low on pressure when even on my 50hp setting.... Was looking at T500 and Adrenaline. Any others could recommend? I'll be doing injectors down the road here too.
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In my motor build I'm replacing the HPOP fittings in the head. Do these need any sort of thread locker to secure?
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Pretty sure my rear plug is leaking on my HPOP. It has a nylon washer under it which is different than what I have seen on all the write ups. I bought the truck with 189k on it five years ago.
I attached a photo....
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After cleaning entire valley on my 2001 f350 with 7.3 I have found what appears to be a small leak under the hpop drivers near the IPR. HPOP lines are clean and dry. Possible for IPR to leak at 120k miles and what will need to be done to fix.
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Have another oil leak, just finished the pan flange gasket last weekend, made it 150 miles, now a new leak.
Took the spider out and everything on top, cleaned the valley up good, the fired the truck. HPO lines are good, but have a drip off the back and bottom of the HPOP, when I reach under it from the back, its right below the large 2 inch circle.
What this might be? was thinking possible orings somewhere under there where it seats, but its been 6 years since I replaced all the orings, don't remember exact layouts.
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I have an oil leak where the HPOP hose attaches to the cylinder head. I have the removal tool for the hose. I assume I need a new fitting. What's the torque spec for this fitting, and any additional tips I need for doing this repair?
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