Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: No ABS Sensor Wire On The Front?
Mar 15, 2017
I have an new to me 1999 4x4 F350 that I was giving a good once over today on the front end since it wanders a little bit. but anyways I didnt see a abs sensor wire on the front. the plugs are there behind the inner fender well and it looks like there is a plug when the sensor should go in the wheel bearing. was 2 wheel abs an option on these trucks? is there anything else this changes front end wise?
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I just noticed a wire burned in half on the front side of the intercooler plenum. See picture below,
Here is the left side showing the green wire stub going into the wiring harness on the front side of the intercooler plenum,
And this is the right side showing the wire going into the air intake duct between the turbo and the air filter,
I don't think it's been in this condition very long.
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I have a 2001 F350 XLT with cloth seats. In 2003 I upgraded those seats to power seats.
- When I upgraded to power seats I did not run a new power wire. Since my 2001 was at least fused for power and heated seats I located the Power seat 30amp power wire.
- That wire is located on engine compartment fuse #15 (Circuit 5298 as I recall) and Dark Green. It comes through the firewall and runs down the drivers side kick panel along the floor and then intersects with the power and ground seat belt wires that ran under the seat.
- The ground wire was coiled and attached to a ground stud behind the drivers side kick panel.
About a month ago I had a mouse get in and chew my seat wiring to shreds. I built my own harness and am good to go there, however since I had these seats all apart I decided to replace the foam and add HEAT.
So that brings me to the specific question. In the engine compartment fuse box, there is a 30amp positive wire for Heated seats. My schematic says it is a 14 gauge wire RD/BK on circuit 1153.
Where in the heck is this wire? I have literally tore the dash apart looking for this wire.
- I have verified the following with my fluke continuity tester.
- It is not part of the four customer access wires that drop on the right side of the interior fuse panel.
- It is not part of the tow wire bundle.
- I have checked the bundle that the Dark Green Power seat wire is in and there are no RD/BK wires in that bundle. I also poked the other 2 14 gauge (Yellow/Blue) wires in that bundle and verified they are not them.
-I have checked the three wire bundles behind the passenger side glove box and was unable to locate.
- I have verified it is not stored behind the compartment below the cigarette lighter.
I am looking for info which wire I am talking about and knows where Ford stored them when not used by having the XLT Trim with cloth seats. Yes I am aware that I can run an additional wire with a 30 amp fuse to the batter, but I would prefer to use the system and fuse that was designed for this.
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I'm getting ready to put in my new double din and it said to hook the wire for the camera up to the reverse light wire. Which one this is on the harness coming out of the column?
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As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
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I'm trying to find a part number for the wiring harness that sits on top of the motor and plugs into the valve cover gaskets. The previous owner replaced the pigtails but the wires were cut so far back that there is virtually nothing left coming out of the harness. What the actual harness looks like other than it has the 9 pin plug on it or whether both sides require an individual harness. What is the part number or picture of said harness. Just in case.... it's a 2001 7.3.
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I'm in the process of replacing my HPOP lines and fittings and after I got everything removed and started cleaning the threads before re-assembly I noticed this green wire (located above the fuel filter assembly) that apparently I pulled out of its socket.
What is it for? Can I just push it back in its sleeve right below the red wire??
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i have a 99 f250 7.3 powerstroke. the cam sensor was acting up. that what the scan tool said. i replaced the cam position sensor yesterday, and the truck is still acting up. the motor hitches and will shut off randomly. it tripped the check engine light, and the code is the "cam position sensor" once the truck is warmed up and shut down for like 10 minutes the sensor will not act up anymore. if i just start the truck and run it, even once it is up to tempature it will act up. but if i shut the truck down for about 10 minutes, it goes away. is there something else that could be causing this?
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3L with 175,000 miles and it died on me July 30th. Here were the symptoms when it died:
Engine was sluggish at standard RPM about 1300-1500 going about 45 MPH, so I stepped on the gas and it seemed to go away. About another 5 miles down the road and starting from a stop, the same thing started happening. The entire truck seemed like it was going to shake itself apart and with the peddle at half throttle it revved to 3500 rpm and didn't shift into 2nd gear until after about 5 seconds at that RPM. After it jerked into 2nd gear the engine dropped back down to about 1000 RPM and started shaking violently again. At this point I managed to make it to a shopping center and then as soon as I let off the gas (still shaking), the engine dropped to 500 RPM and after about 15-30 seconds shut off. When I got the truck home I managed to start it one more time but it shortly stalled after about 15-30 seconds, again it was hovering around 500 RPM and still shaking badly.
Here is what happens when I try to start it:
From 0-2 seconds, truck goes through a normal cranking rhythm and sound.
From 2-10 seconds, it slowly tries to start itself back up but it sounds like it is only firing on a few cylinders, I'm guessing maybe 2-3.
I stopped after 10 seconds in fear of burning out the starter or killing the batteries.
Troubleshooting:
Removing the connection to the ICP sensor, something I read that might at least let me start the truck, which is how I found the oil on the connection itself. I also noticed a little bit of what looks like oil on the some of the wiring harnesses in the surrounding area. I also checked the fuel bowl and it is filled with fuel.
Possible solutions?:
From what I have read on the forums I am guessing that it has something to do with the ICP or the IPR sensors. I also believe that it is a sensor related issue considering that the truck won't even start. I am completely off track. I am going to start working on it full stride this weekend. I have been vehicle-less since the 30th so I'm trying to get this fixed asap. I don't have any codes, I am going to try to get a coder this weekend.
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I am doing some maintenance and trying to replace my EBP tube and sensor. I luckily have the dual alternator package, so getting the tube in and out has been a pain to say the least. I can't for the life of me get the tube back into place. As always, a 20 minute job is taking me 2 days.
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Noticed a while back that the plug for what I assume is the air intake temp sensor is looped. I assume because I can't find the sensor anywhere. how critical is the sensor? The new S&B has a hole for it so it's either gonna need a new sensor or a plug. The local autozone has one for 16.99.
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I need to install an oil pressure sensor sending unit. I've already occupied the 1/8"NPT test port on the rear of the oil cooler, where else might I be able to tap into oil pressure? (LPOP)
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For some reason my OH display decided to show 140 deg F when its 40 deg F outside. Continues to show 140 all the time now regardless of out side temp. In case its the related outside temp sensor sending unit, where it is exactly on an 02. Unless someone has solution may try changing that out to see if that is the problem?
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My 2000 F350 7.3 has been stalling out with the water in fuel sensor for the last to tanks of fuel. I thought I needed to buy a new Titan fuel tank, I pulled the tank and was surprised to see that my tank was not a metal tank, It's polyethylene, I bought the truck in California with 60,000 miles it has 180,000 miles now. It was sold new in Canada, I expected the tank to be metal with the the liner coming off.
The two fuel filters in the tank are just about plugged solid I'll be removing them and repiping the return line. When I repipe the return line do I put the duck bill on the end or just leave it open? Also I searched the web for hours looking for a stock size polyethylene tank with no luck. On the bottom of the tank I found The ford part #s. I'm going to siphon the fuel out of the tank today. and reinstall....
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I drove my 99.5 7.3 F-350 1 mile to a friends and hooked it to the OBDII to get a code for my abs light.it had not been drove all day. we hooked into the pcm and he noticed the temp at 375* it was idling. is this right he didnt think it should have been that high???Will the engine coolant temp sensor, if it were bad,show a high temp of 375*? On the OBDII it showed a temp of 375* .....
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Ok I have a p0197 engine oil sensor low.. Temperature is cold right now and truck was not plugged in.. Truck surges when started unless I give some steady throttle and oil warms up. Also service engine soon light comes on.. Oil change soon but been a while.
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What the sensor is for? In the course of removing the rough country bumper from my truck and installing the 2005-2007 factory front end I found this guy hanging out with wires cut. I haven't attempted to wire it back up because I want to know what it is first. It would appear that the sensor is suppose to be screwed in to something.
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So I have a non ebpv pedestal I was going to clean my sensor on the front because my mileage has went down a bit. My question is is this even worth doing since the valve is not there anymore I have got mixed answers trying to look it up some say it still affects the mileage some say it won't. I cleaned it once about 10 years ago. I have an AE also how do I test it and what should it read if I do need to clean it or replace it?
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Ford catalog does not list the TPS for a 1999 7.3 Super Duty as a separate replaceable part which leads to replacing the whole throttle pedal assembly. I found this to be incorrect. If you have a throttle pedal assembly with separate TPS (separate 3 wire connector) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch 2 wire connector) just the TPS can be replaced.
This is a pic of my 99 with new TPS installed : [URL] .....
Without removing the whole assembly you only need to remove the 2 T25 screws and the connector to replace.
Since this part is listed for more then 20 Ford trucks I figured it would work in my 99 7.3. I bought a brand new TPS from Pete (F250_) that he could not use. He has a 2002 with one 5 wire connector. It works perfectly in my 99. Not sure if it will work in a 2000 or 2001 but if the TPS and IVS each have their own connector it should. Make a visual inspection to be sure.
Part DY-967 or F4SZ-9B989-AA - Potentiometer
I was going to go with a Dorman TPS but like PartsGuyED likes to say "OEM Baby". The OEM TPS through Ed is actually cheaper then the Dorman.
Side-by-side pic of the old and new TPS. Only the center rotating part is different but it fits and works just fine. It also has a better fit so there is less slop and almost immediate response.
NewOldTPS.jpg?t=1269362105
By the way, the original TPS was working fine so I have no idea what the symptoms of a bad TPS are. Since it was available I replaced it to have a spare and to see if this one would work. Both Pete and I thought it would and we were right.
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Trying to be proactive seems to have backfired on me. What to do? Pull sensors and clean? Checked codes points to both left and right sides.
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Plugged in my ScanGaugeII on a whim, it's usually on my 6.5 Suburban daily drivers, but was curious to monitor a few things on the 7.3
Noticed this right away, coolant temp reading a solid -40*F and never budging.
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