Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: New Injectors - Crank But Won't Start - Low ICP?
Aug 23, 2015
So I got all 8 injectors upgraded and excited when I get them back I put them all in in kind of a rush. And in that rush I left the cylinders full of excess oil. So obviously when I tried to start it hydro locked. Angry at myself. I kept trying to crank hoping it would fire and just shoot that oil out. Nope, so I went back to taking all the glow plugs out and firing it all back out. Put it all back together then tried to fire her up. Took a minute but she started and I let it run for a while. Hit the gas a few times and then it died. Couldn't get it started again. It would just crank, I checked the icp and ipr and the icp did not build above 35 psi and the ipr was at 98.04% so I just figured the o rings blew out when it hydro locked.
So I took it all back apart put new o rings on, took my time and put it back together right double checking everything. Got it all back together and went to start it, it would just crank around 160-170 rpms, battery voltage at 10.6 icp built up to 140 but now it won't build past 40. Ipr still goes to 98.04. The engine ran just fine prior to injector change, I put a new upgraded hpop prior to injector change, new ipr, icp, cps. Everything checks out, but it will not build oil pressure while crank I've killed a set of batteries then went all out and spent 350 at napa for some optima red tops. I did notice the cylinder 7 injector is the AE injector. It suppose to be in cylinder 8, idk if that's affect the oil pressure building up?
But as far as I know, I'm not building oil pressure. So idk if the hydro lock could have ruined something to keep it from building oil pressure?
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I changed my injectors and glow plugs on passenger side. I tried to start the engine and it wont crank (turn over). I tried to turn over by hand by turning alternator bolt counter clockwise, turns a little bit and then get very difficult. Is this hydro lock? I stuck a suction tube down injector holes and made it to the piston not much oil came out, I think the truck was a little low on oil before I started the project. The starter wont turn the engine over. I even turned the engine over by hand many times before I put glow plugs in to evacuate the cylinders. I don't know what to do?
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So we begin w/ another saga for the 7.3l Excursion......
A few months ago it started running like crap, real crap and blowing white smoke like crazy. Well I knew this from a previous episode and I had a bad or multiple bad injectors. I tried to trouble shoot which one it was and maybe just replace the one or two....but no it was worse than that. So Life was really busy it kinda got shoved aside until now.
I pulled all the injectors and had them rebuilt locally ..nice. They ended up being with mech for a couple of weeks because he went out of town...no problem. Well this entire time my rig was untouched and when I got them back #7 was full of water.....great, bad injector cup. #7 was the only one, the rest were dry. So I drained the radiator and the oil and left it overnight to completely drain and installed the new injector cup in #7. Next day I refilled via both heads because the valve covers were off, 4 gallons of oil and a new oil filter. Cleared the cylinders via the glow plugs and commenced to trying to get her started. Nada......just cranks, killed the batteries, recharged over night and left the box on them and still nada....but the oil was still very milky at this point.
So tonight I pulled all the injectors back out and drained the oil again, still a lot of water. This time I sucked out the HPOP reservoir and got a more milky water/oil out and I'm leaving everything open all night.
In the am I plan to check my overflow water level in the hopes it remains at the same level...if so I will reinstall all 8 injectors and refill the motor w/ 4 gallons of fresh oil and try again.
Oh, while I was attempting get her started I put my buddies Snapon scan tool on it and I got the p1271-p1278 codes w/ the buzz test. (low side to high side open circuit between idm and injector) So I found the pin test with everything connected at the idm pigtail and everything tested good. So I'm back to my not so fresh oil anymore is the culprit to it not starting.
Am I missing something here?
Also....another fun filled fact is that I seem to have a fuel leak somewhere at the rear passenger side. Every time my fuel bowl fills up, if I shut the key off it will drain down. Sometimes I can see fuel dripping quite vigorously onto my starter but I can not see where it is coming from. I have while it was dripping ran my hand along the head and the fuel lines and can not find where it is coming from. Any thoughts as to where in the hell this fuel could be leaking from?
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I just replaced my cups because of bad leak. well replaced all cups and injector from a rolled truck the truck ran when pulled. well installed went to start and have tried for 2 days on and off still not start did buzz test and passed , checked oil reserve and was full. When I first tried to start it acted like it was hydrolocked and then hit it again and been turning fine
YouTube ....
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Powerstroke 6.0 no crank no start... 2004 Excursion. I cannot get any of scanners to connect to get any codes. I have the Autoenginuity Ford Package, scanguage II and another generic scanner. There is power to the diagnostic connector but there is no communication.
I have recently been having issues with rough running cold starts. Codes before this no crank event were 2285 ICP Sensor Low and 0528 fan speed sensor low and one for EGR which has been deleted. Just last weekend I had crank no start. I unplugged the ICP sensor and started and ran. I ordered a new OEM ICP sensor and pigtail and the truck sat until I received them.
Recent Work : I just replaced the ICP sensor and the pig tail. I soldered and heat shrank the wires rather than using the quick connects. I did find that after soldering the pigtail I found two wires shorted on the pigtail. Per the diagram on the 6.0 bible the a/b wires were shorted. I have corrected those. I also noticed that the top of the glow plug control connector has a broken clip. Not sure if there is a connection issue so I have tried to ensure that it is pushed in as far as it will go. I have another module somewhere I'll have to see if I can find it. Replaced glow plugs and harness about 6 months ago.
What have I done:
- Pulled access panel on FICM has 4 posts.
- FICM voltage 48v Key On.
- FICM voltage 46v cranking
Check the diagnostic connector can +/- (pins 6/14) and has resistance 122.1
I've check all the fuses and specifically:
#20 FICM
#22 Engine Control
I found one bad fuse #115 Trailer Tow Charge.
When trying to start Glow Plug light comes on but doesn't go out. The injectors are not initializing and the fuel pump doesn't seem to be running either. I have unplugged sensors ICP, EBP and FSS. Not sure what to test next. I'm considering pulling the ficm harness tomorrow to look for chaffing.
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My 2002 F450 7.3 won't start unless the heater is plugged in for 2-3 hours+ regardless of the weather. Today I did a cylinder contribution test and at first cylinder 2 got code P0266 (Injector Circuit Contribution / Balance Fault) and cylinder 7 got code P0281 (Injector Circuit Contribution / Balance Fault). I drove it 10-15 miles and did another test. Only Cylinder 2 got code P0266. No error on cylinder 7. I've used RevX with some success before, so I'm tempted to try it again see if it clears up the error on 2. My question though can injectors be an explanation for my hard start situation? (I've already replaced EGR, ECP, Fuel Filter, CPS and glow plugs seem to be fine also).
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My 2001 7.3 was smoking excessively and I rebuilt the turbo and the center cartridge was at fault for that. I'm still having some of the problems I was having before with a lot of smoke at cold start (I have to hold the accelerator down while I start it and it takes about 10 seconds to start) even when I hold it I have to keep it held for about 5-10 seconds before the RPMs get to where they should be. And it smokes like crazy.
Then after about 3 minutes warming up, or 30 seconds of me holding it at 3500 rpm, the idle smooths out and it only smokes a little. Then once I start driving it doesn't smoke a lot unless I go hammer down then it puffs some white smoke. I took the oil cap off and it isn't huge amounts of blow by cap just rattles off. Can ford buzz test and see if I only have 1 or 2 bad injectors? Could this be anything other than injectors? It has a ts6 on it with 24xxxx miles with factory injectors.
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Just replaced all hpop orings. Injectors loud after start up at idle. Guessing air in lines. How long do I need to drive before all air out of lines and everything back to normal?
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Replaced o-rings, injector cups, glow plugs and UVCH with all motorcraft parts 2 years ago and the ICP, IPR and resealed the HPOP last year. I use rotella 15W-40 oil. It has been hard to start when it is cold and runs rough with little power until warm for a few seasons now when it is cold outside. There are no fault codes or issues otherwise with the mostly stock truck. A buzz test when the engine is cold only #6 sounds strong and #8 isn't quite as bad as the others but the others are hardly audible.
Cause:
1) Can 6 to 7 injectors really go bad in 165k miles? If it is injectors I believe the Alliant look to be the way to go with type ADs?
2) Since it is like flipping a switch and the number of injectors effected is it possibly the 0.1% of the time it is the IDM when there is a miss and no SES. From my searching and swampdiesel if there is a miss and no SES it is 99.9% it is not the IDM or harness since it actively checks continuity.
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I have an 02 f250 230,000, first 7.3. I've owned it since Oct and put less than 6,000 miles on it. I have another cold crank no start. New glow plugs and Glow plug relay last weekend. Worked fine that weekend. It sat all week, then crank no start fri night, it was like 70 degrees for the high that day. Plugged it in over night and it started. Did not fire right up cranked it for a couple seconds. I drove it all day, started every time. Valve covers have 5,000 miles on them. Fuel Filter heater fuse not blown. But don't know how to check it for sure. And don't know where to go with it from here. Getting frustrated with crank no starts. No troubles found.
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I got a 2000 7.3l with 400,000 miles on it that decided to just not start anymore after I parked it for a couple days. Its always been a hard starter due to needing glow plugs but I can deal with that. it doesn't even try to fire anymore. I replaced the CPS (my tack bounces when cranking). The ICP has oil in the plug so I just unplugged it for now till I replace it.
I pulled the IPR and cleaned it really good and bench tested it with 12 volts and could here it clicking so I put it back in. I can get under the drivers door with the key on and hear the fuel pump running. I gain oil pressure on my dash gauge when cranking. I check all my fuses. my WTS light comes on . I just don't have any fancy scan tools to make this easier. Also just cause I was feeling lucky I just went out and bought 2 new batteries for it yesterday so we are good there.
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I have a 1997 F350 7.3 with standard xmission. Have not messed with it since Oct of last year. Then it would crank but no start. Now when I turn the key there is no wts or nothing the gauges move, and tach moves when cranking, but nothing else.
The cam and crank pos sensors have been changed. The high pressure sensors changed. Now when I hook it to the AE it says cannot connect to truck. Where I need to start? Have checked all fuses that I know about.
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Friend's 2000 7.3 wont start, just crank and crank tried to fire but nothing in the cold leave it plugged in and it starts leave it in a shop over night and it starts with a shot of either, he is a truck driver and the truck will sometimes sits for 6 weeks at a time this time 2 weeks before I touched it. He wanted me to install a fuel pump so I did and started the following:
Cracked fuel lines to see if I had fuel psi at both heads
I tested glowplugs they all read at 0.3 on all 8
I have power to harness as the same at both sides of the relay
RPM tach jumps
Oil psi gauge rises
Using my phone I can read hpop and 2000 at cranking (how accurate that is im not 100% sure)
All fuses good
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i have a 2001 f250 7.3L PSD. it turns over but will not run. replaced the CPS , starter and the #30 fuse. IPR is new and all injectors are new, new gaskets and harness and new glow plugs new batteries. still just cranks and cranks. no oil pressure build up and no tach movement, oil level is good in HPOP. What could it be?
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So back ground is as such. Truck started fine before I replaced the hpop with t500 and did the driven diesel regulated return. I have double checked everything is plugged in. Now when I try to start it cold it will just crank. Yes I get smoke and oil pressure both places. If I give it a shot of ether it will start right up and run fine all day. What am I missing? Yes I know ether bad.
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i have a 99 f450 7.3 that cranks but will not start. I did an injector buzz test but it sais no communication between the computers. it has a new rebuilt engine, new ipr, icp, hpop, water pump, and both computers.
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Found icp sensor with oil in plug and codes p1211 and p1212. Icp sensor reading 0 pressure. Changed out icp sensor. Still cranks no start check oil level in hpop resverior, check with brake clean spray nozzle and no oil on it. Filled resverior with oil. She tried to start. Had to put the charger on her and she finally lite off and came to life. Questions, how would that resverior empty out? Was it because I pulled that sensor? Is there s check valve in that resverior hanging up?
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New to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
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Anyway, I went out to start my truck just now and I'm getting a weird symptom.
The truck gets partial revolution and then to me it seems like the starter bendix pulls back in prematurely and this nasty clank and then a slight "zing". all within a second.
If I try a few more times, it seems to fire. But all the attempts before it fires sound pretty nasty to me.
Does this sound like a symptom of a bad starter/bendix?
A little further history, my excursion was broken into several years ago and they stole my pioneer head unit, in doing so, they forced the shifter down and since then it has been a little "loose". I'm wondering if it could be a neutral safety switch on the transmission?
Anyway, I'm getting ready to order a new neutral safety switch but wondering if I should go ahead a purchase a new starter as well?
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I have a 99 F3 50 with the 7.3 L I am done a lot of work to replace the HPOP pump and the ICP sensor as well as the IPR it cranks but does not start it will sputter and smokes but doesn't run SOS. Also there are no dtc in computer....
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I've replaced the alternator and starter recently and both batteries and the truck ran fine befor that. But it sat for roughly 2 months and now it seems as if its not getting fuel. Will start with a shot of ether but will die as soon at it burns it off
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