Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: New Fuel Bowl Drain / Water Separator Failure After 3 Weeks?
Feb 24, 2016
Had the ole factory fuel separator/bowl drain start leaking on me about a month back. So i ordered and installed a new one, issue fixed. Well last night the fuel leak started again, I looked everywhere and i cant see anywhere else it may be leaking at. I felt the underside of said piece and it didn't feel wet, but the valley is full of fuel.
I got in there and tightened the 4 bolts down some more, they were tight but i got a some turns on em and am hoping i either didn't tighten it down enough or they maybe backed out some. Now just gotta see if that solves the problem, again.... the replacement is a doorman, the o-rings were bigger/thicker than the factory orings on the old part, of which the o-rings were shot.
Like I said once i replaced the part the leak stopped for 3 weeks until last night. If the tightening of the bolts doesn't solve it where should I look next? I have an FRX mod but i checked all that and its dry as a bone around all the fittings by the bowl and the heads. No indications of leaks anywhere around any of the FRX assembly.
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I just changed the drain valve on the fuel filter bowl. All went well and no more leak, but now I am getting an "emission system" warning light.
After I replaced the valve, I filled the fuel bowl with diesel fuel. Was there any other priming that needed to be done (if any)? What the emission system warning light may mean?
2002 F250 7.3L 4x4.
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I have a very small fuel leak in my 2001 F-250. I was going to just let it go until I needed to do other work (since I get 20mpg city and 25mpg highway), but I went to a "new" inspection guy, and he flunked me. So now I have to fix it. And for all I know, my mpg and fifteen other things will break when I try to fix this.
Today I spent 4 hours in the heat putting in two new o-rings on the water separator valve. But the truck still leaks fuel. Climbed up on top of motor while it was running and looked, but I don't see where the fuel is leaking out.
Online research suggests to me that the next most-likely culprit is a steel fuel line that wears through from vibration and chafing. Is that correct?
This truck is so eaten up with rust (came from salt belt) that I bought a LOT of fuel line stuff a year or so ago, so that when things started falling apart from rust, I would have the parts on hand.
Now I'm wondering whether I already have the part I'm likely to need.
So far, I have bought:
1. Dorman Fuel Supply and Return Lines
2. Riff Raff Diesel High Pressure Crossover (HPx)
3. Riff Raff Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover (FRx)
So my question is, am I likely to have something to replace the part that commonly leaks on these trucks due to vibration/wear/chafing ... or will I still need to buy another part?
I'm thinking that one of the two lines in item #1 above is the problem child...
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What is the part number for the gasket that goes on the water separator on a 2003 6.0 diesel.
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So today. I filled my truck full of diesel. when I started it back up, it through the wrench light plus drain water separator. What it could be I have a loss in power. wont get over 45mph.
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Anyway, Just bought a used 2015 F350. I want to drain the water separator as the dealer can't tell me when it was done last. Anyway, I read how to do it, but once you drain it, what do you do with the diesel that drains out with?
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New to me early 99 (4/98) f350 7.3 6 speed. Truck started acting up a few days after I bought it. Return line at fuel bowl was leaking, so started there and found a bad seal on the Fpr (unrelated to the fuel leak due to disentegrated compression sleeve). Fast forward through a bunch of parts swapping that still resulted in miserable lift pump pressure readings, I pull the sending unit out of the tank, expecting to find a plugged screen.
Well, there was in fact a plugged screen... Attached to the bottom of an in-tank pump. How did that get there?!? Everything I've read says there should only be a pickup tube??? Should I get a new sending unit from a junkyard and do the hutch mod or???
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Trying to fit my edge fuel pressure sensor. I have a 90* fitting from Diesel O-rings and I can't seem to get the 90 elbow to turn all the way down before it makes contact with the fuel bowl housing. I'm using the drivers side port, should I use the passenger side port? would it have more clearance than the driver side port?
My instinct is to crank it all the way down then tighten the nut, should I just screw it in until it makes contact then tighten the nut? I was worried it wouldn't have enough threads in contact to seal as well as it should and leak.
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I want to build a fuel bowl delete/regulated return fuel system for my 2000 f250 . I would like to make a really neat kit and attach all products used so people that want to build their own would have a useful source. I understand that it will probably cost the same but I want to design my own and route it the way I want . I have 3/8 1/2 5/16 and 1/4 stainless tubing as well as a bunch of unions and 90* 45* fittings and a couple tees. What size is the ports for the fuel lines that go into the four corners of the heads . I am a pipe fitter pipe welder by trade so this is basically a mini version of what I do everyday at work. Looking for some size details of the head port sizes so I can get the correct fittings?
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I've had an engine oil leak for some time. Recently I've had to add about a quart a month. I got some fluorescent dye and added it to the engine oil last time I added a quart. Ran the engine for a few weeks. Then cleaned the engine valley with cleaner and hot water.
Tonight I investigated the top of the engine with a black light. To my surprise, the oil leak is coming from the fuel bowl, right around the drain valve. I can clearly see about a drop every 3 seconds of fluorescent yellow liquid falling into the valley below and yellow all around the valve.
I expected a leak from the HPOP not the fuel bowl. Do I have a bigger problem? Is engine oil getting into the fuel? I plan to replace the seals in the fuel bowl, but not until I know whether I have a larger problem to address.
2001 F250 Crewcab, 220,000 miles
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I've thought I smelt diesel fuel on an off for a while, but never found the source.
Tonight, 17 degrees out I have fuel in the valley and it appears as if the back of the drain valve is wet.
A fuel bowl rebuild is on the short list. Is this typical, the cold weather brings the issue to light?
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2003 6.0 no start. turn the key to on and nothing happens. dash lights up as it should but I don't hear the glow plugs cycle and no fuel gets into the upper fuel bowl. turn the key over and nothing happens. No starter click nothing. tried the starter wire to the battery trick and it cranks but does not kick over. checked ficm wires and they are secure as well as the injector wire on the intake manifold. it is the original ficm.
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My fuel bowel drain valve is leaking again. I plan to do the hutch mod in the next month or so. Have the kit already. So I can't do the fuel bowel delete yet. it seems one of the mount holes for the drain Valve is stripped. The top rh screw won't snug up. I swapped out the orings and it still leaks. I'm sure it's from that screw. So I'm thinking about a flange bolt and an oring from the inside of the fuel bowel. It's going to be a temporary fix.
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During a heavy rain the "water in fuel, drain filter" warning came on. I drained the filter like suggested and a water bottle full of water drained out. This is less then a week after I had the titan fuel tank installed. After I drained the fluid I restarted the engin and "reduce power an water in fuel" warning came on. I am 250 miles from the nearest ford dealer. How major is this???
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We have been having near zero temps for several days and it occurred to me that there may be some amount of water in the water separator in the rail mounted fuel filter (not enough to send a message, but maybe some amount). I only have 3,000 miles on the truck. So, just wondering if a small amount of water is going to hurt anything in the filter or filter housing if it freezes? Should I drain the filter in freezing weather even though enough water hasn't collected enough to activate a message?
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I am currently doing my injectors. Just a quick question. I was trying to get the fuel rail drain plug out but it stripped, actually not on the driver side stripped. I know there is the drain plug on the back of the cylinder. If I drain that and turn the crank over by hand will that drain all the oil and fuel that has drained into the cylinder? I'm really not trying to bend a rod when I turn this thing over. It's A 2001 7.3
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Well, my water separator light has been coming on and going off for the past week. Today, I finally thought about it while drinking a beer, and decided I'd pull the plug to see what I can catch.
As you can see from the pictures, this brownish color crap comes flowing out, followed by clean fuel. What it is? I've drained the separator in the past, but never have I seen this come out.
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So I am happily driving my 2011 F250 Powerstroke and the water in fuel light comes on. I drain the filter and drive about 10 miles and it happens again. Drain again and 5 miles later the engine dies. Had it towed to my dealer who found an exploded high pressure diesel injection pump. They talked to Ford and found out that they needed to install an all new fuel system from the injectors to the tank! The bill was 18,000 and no warrantee. Bad stuff gets right by the filters!!! I have two of those trucks and since the dealer used exactly the same parts as the broken ones, it can happen today again.
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My 99 F350 cranks, but won't start, and the "water in fuel" light on the dash stays on while cranking. I have never paid close attention to it in the past. Is it supposed to be on while cranking?
I drained the water from the yellow lever located on top of the engine, and tried to start it. The light went off for the first few cranks, but again the truck still will not start.
I just came from a 10 hours round trip to NC. I filled the truck up two times from gas stations on the way. Is it possible that the fuel is bad? I drove on the same fuel almost 3/4 of this tank and now at the last 1/4 I am having this issue.
A little update:
I took the top of the fuel bowl off to see what the filter looks like, and it is nasty and completely black. I could not tell if the fuel in the bowl contained any water, but it looks greenish and uniform, no the obvious separation that happens when you mix water and oil.
Could the fuel filter be the problem?
A little history about the truck. It's always hard to start if cold and not plugged in overnight. I know it's the glow plugs relay, so I just keep it plugged in all the time until I get a chance to fix it.
IDM was acting up shutting off half of my engine, but I took it off, cleaned it, plugged it back in and it has been working fine for over 2 months.
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My 2000 F350 7.3 has been stalling out with the water in fuel sensor for the last to tanks of fuel. I thought I needed to buy a new Titan fuel tank, I pulled the tank and was surprised to see that my tank was not a metal tank, It's polyethylene, I bought the truck in California with 60,000 miles it has 180,000 miles now. It was sold new in Canada, I expected the tank to be metal with the the liner coming off.
The two fuel filters in the tank are just about plugged solid I'll be removing them and repiping the return line. When I repipe the return line do I put the duck bill on the end or just leave it open? Also I searched the web for hours looking for a stock size polyethylene tank with no luck. On the bottom of the tank I found The ford part #s. I'm going to siphon the fuel out of the tank today. and reinstall....
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I have a 2001 F250 (Platinum Edition). I purchased about a year ago. The water in fuel light came on. I ran an additive to remove water and changed the fuel filter several times. Light still on. How to turn it off? I missing something? Only fuel filter I see sits on top of engine...
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