Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: New Caliper Now Loose Brake Pedal?
Aug 7, 2016
Ive had plenty of brake issues with this truck since I've owned it and I finally got to inspect a brake i knew was having issues. The outside pad was metal on metal. The inside pad was gone and the one piston was extended completely open while the other one was closed. So to the question. Ive bled it like i do any other caliper and no luck. I went an bled all the other calipers and still no luck. The brakes seem to be working ok even though i never really tested them super hard but the pedal is far lower then it was before.
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03 F250 7.3. I busted a brake line last week somehow, Got it replaced and fixed up, Bled that line and everything was somewhat good.
Now, when i hit the brakes hard, I have pressure. If I let off even a little, My pedal will start to sink till i apply more pressure. I am gonna fully bleed my brakes when I'm home to see if this could solve the problem.
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So I have my 2000 F250 in the shop because I was feeling a funny vibration in my brake pedal. (isn't warped rotors, I know what that feels like). It also felt like the brakes were on, then would release a little, lengthening my stopping distance.
I took it to a small local shop and the guy said it sounds like the hydroboost. I told them to fix it. Next day, before they start to fix, they call and say they can't guarantee it's the hydroboost and may be the Power Steering pump.
My question is; is there a way to test it to know for sure which part is failing? How do I figure out which one is causing the problem?
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New to me 2002 F-250 PSD, done brakes all the way around for piece of mind.
Job went very well, replaced one caliper and its bracket, serviced all pins and replaced one set of pins as well, (different corner). Bled brakes all day via gravity, watching reservoir and filling as needed as to flush in new fluid. Truck is in great shape. Mileage 153,000 no rust, turned all rotors just to re-surface.
Now here is what's happened, my pedal is good but it pulses in the first 1/2 inch of travel and once passed that no pulse, got under and watched the pedal rod do this as I very easily touched it in that first 1/2 inch of travel, you don't even begin to get much brake started here if any! Truck running; yes-Truck not running no pulse action occurs.
I'll add this: fluid removed had a green tint to it but had no moisture or bad odor. Different fluid??? I didn't know. Used Dot 3 Off the shelf O'Reilly's.
Hydro-booster didn't like fluid? Air? Master cylinder? No leaks before or after this procedure.
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Installed Tekonsha P3 on my 2000 F350 I used the recommend pig tail easy hookup when I press brake pedal no voltage at plug but when I move the manual lever I get voltage. I believe the stop light switch activates it. The fuses all check out. I did have a Banks engine brake installed by their people I don't know if makes a difference
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2001 F350 XL... Fitting on PS pump broke and I lost PS and PB with fluid everywhere. Replaced the hose with a new one from Autozone and I have no noticeable leaks.
I know I lost more than a quart but I could only add less than a quart (Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF). I'm also getting a whine from the steering wheel when I turn stop to stop. The power steering is back and there are no leaks (that I see) but the brake pedal is mushy. I've pumped and turned stop to stop for a while. Do I have to bleed the system like I'm doing a fluid flush? I hate to waste the synthetic fluid that I changed about two years ago.
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Heading back up to get the last load of antique tractors from the show and something seemed funny. 2 miles later turn into a side Road less power. Pull over. Oil everywhere. Shut it down. Nut completely unthreaded.
Get it on and tighten as best I could with a pair of channel locks one size too small. Dump in a gallon of oil. Now it is just on the stick. Start it and sounds good. Still leaking.
Called a buddy to see if he can get me. Yep sure but his wife is not happy. Something about him going to Texas at 7 am for work for a week..... Give him directions hoping he makes it since he has no sense of direction.
Obs 7.3 stops. Talk to him. He doesn't have anything better for tools on him but lives a mile down the road. Drop the trailer on the side of the road. Drive to his farm and got some better fitting pliers. Either I got too heavy handed or I cross threaded it. Stripped the nut. The flange threads look good.
Drive back to the trailer and sit intersection so my buddy doesn't miss it. Hook my trailer to his truck and get mine loaded. In the end it turned out as best as it probably could have. Pictures to follow when the sun comes up. Time to read up on the dipstick flange. Hoping a new nut and o-rings will fix it.
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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my dads front drivers brake caliper was dragging so last Thursday he had the local Ford dealer install a new one WHY i don't know since i always work on everything of ours plus my friends Fords. Today he said he pushed the brake and it went to the floor then he let up and pushed it again and they worked?? I haven't looked into it yet but the dealer cant look until Friday morning so my dad asked me to do it today after work..... what should i check for? leaking brake line, maybe air in the system still?
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Just bought a 1999 F250 7.3 cab and a half standard 266k miles. The steering wheel is really loose. Not loose as in turning the wheel to turn the tires but like moment up and down and side to side. Are there bearings to replace?
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Have 50,000 mile on my 2011 F350 6.7 and up until today the truck has been flawless. This is my weekend vehicle and sees very light duty hauling fishing gear to my boat (100 miles hwy) and pulling my 7x12 enclose trailer with goose decoys. On a couple of occasions pulling my 29 CC from marina to my home and back. Took truck in for oil change and tire rotation, service advisor informs me I have 2mm on rear brakes and 3mm on fronts. Not sure why rears have more wear than fronts. Schedule to have brakes done for today and now find out that front right caliper is sticky and they want to replace both front calipers. I cannot believe that a 2011 SD F350 with 50,000 miles and of that mostly highway needs brakes let a lone calipers are going bad. Service manger tried to tell me that brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years, to which I responded that I have Ford perform all scheduled maintenance. He went on to say that this is not scheduled maintenance, wtf bs is he telling me, if it is necessary then it would be scheduled maintenance. Truck gave zero indication of stuck caliper, no sound and no excessive brake dust on wheel.
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I started noticing a problem with my steering on my 2000 Excursion, a couple of days ago. when I make left or right turn, the wheels seem to want to continue in the direction of the turn even as I am straightening up the steering wheel. I have to over compensate on the steering wheel to straighten the wheels it seems. It does it when I make a left or right turn, but seems to be worse when turning left. Also I noticed that if I'm driving on pavement that has ruts from heavy traffic, the front end seems to pull to one side then the other.
I've had the truck for 7 years and this is the first time this has happened to it. Is it an alignment problem or is there something else that I need to consider? I jacked it up today to check the tie rods and drag link, everything seemed ok
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Are we supposed to put anti sieze on the turbo to pedestal bolts. They were really hard to break loose when I pulled it Cheater bar tight. 18 ft. lbs sound right ?
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I picked up a 2000 4x4 F250 on Saturday.
The truck rides pretty good but on bumpy roads there is a loose sounding rattle in the front end. Also when applying the brakes there is a thud in the front drives side. You can feel it in the drivers floor board a little. Once you start braking about halfway to complete stop is when the thud is, if that makes sense. I suspect bushings but how do I know which ones.
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I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
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I have a 4r100 on in a 99 7.3 4x4. The shifting problem I have appears to be intermittant. it seems loose after warm up especially at the 4th shift overdrive and passing gear. possibly due to low presures ? sometimes (lately more often than not) hunts back and forth between 4th and o.d when passing or hill climbing. Under normal driving it shifts somewhat firm with 4th being an exeption.I have changed my crank position sensor filters and fluids which had turned dark and improved slightly. When I pulled the pan and replaced the filter the pan was spotless. No residue or signs of plates or debris. There is about 100,000 miles on the tranny and 350,000 on the truck. Questions: Is there a tcm for this transmission and if so could it cause these problems? I'm considering a purchase of an unlocked 1705 superchip to change the shifting but unsure if this will work for my issues...
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I'm in the process of replacing my HPOP lines and fittings and after I got everything removed and started cleaning the threads before re-assembly I noticed this green wire (located above the fuel filter assembly) that apparently I pulled out of its socket.
What is it for? Can I just push it back in its sleeve right below the red wire??
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I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
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I recently upgraded my exhaust from stock to a 4" Magna Flow Turbo back kit. After the upgrade, I noticed a strange rattle coming from the tail pipe. It sounded like the pipe was vibrating on something but I checked and it is free from anything touching it. There are no strange noises coming from the engine area. it is only herd at the end of the pipe. If I start the truck it makes a the loose rattle noise like something is loose inside the pipe like the sound you get when you have a bad muffler. About after 4 or 5 minutes I hear the exhaust noise change pitch and make a whooshing noise like a gate or something opening or closing and changing the exhaust flow. After a while it goes away and make the loose rattle returns. The truck has lots of power and preforms great. Where to look?
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What is failing. I have a 2000 F350 PSD with 116k miles. When I bought the truck last year, I noticed that the clutch pedal would squeak while it was coming off the floor. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. I need to drive it about 30 min before it starts to happen. On longer trips, several hours, the squeaking is louder and the pedal gets very stiff. When I stop for fuel, I've come close to stalling when coming out of 1st gear. I can push the pedal to the floor, but on the way up, the pedal squeaks, and then once I reach a certain point, say 3-4 inches off the floor, the pedal looses all freeplay. The best way for me to describe it is the pedal travels up faster than it normally does when it's cold, and if I don't compensate with more throttle at that point, it will stall.
I've learned a lot by reading this forum for the past year, but I don't know the first thing about how to diagnose problems like this. I've taken it to 2 mechanics for test rides -- one thinks the clutch is fine and thinks the problem is the slave cylinder or a broken bushing in the pedal.
The other shop is also a small independent shop, but they specialize exclusively in Ford trucks, so I thought they would be more knowledgeable. But now I'm wondering if they could sense my ignorance and are taking advantage of the situation. They also took it for a drive, but they think the slave cylinder is fine and that the clutch needs to be replaced. I questioned him about the slave, and he pulled it to look at it, and asked me to push the pedal slowly while he was under the truck. I still had a little resistance and a faint squeak even in this situation. But he said the hydraulics are so simple that he felt we could rule that out. I can't remember exactly what he said, but I think he believes one of the springs in the clutch plate has failed. I just know they are suggesting a new clutch and they want to machine the flywheel to original specs.
I thought the leading symptom of a failing clutch was slippage under a load. So under strain, I would expect my engine to race occasionally, like I'm in neutral. But I've NEVER experienced anything remotely like this, even when driving hard in the hills pulling my travel trailer.
I know something is wrong, but based on my limited knowledge, I'm not sure what. It's getting a little harder for me to move the shifter into 1st and reverse, but once it's there it's fine. I've never experienced any racing or slippage in any gear. The one definite symptom I have is that squeaky pedal that when driven for a couple of hours, gets so stiff that it can cause near stall outs. With those symptoms, what do you think is going wrong?
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I have a 01 7.3 F-350, 120000. I rarely get down hard on the go pedal but a while back I did and heard at pressure whistle just before it would shift. I thought a bad turbo hose so I replaced them all. 'While working on the hose mounts I cleaned up the castings for a better seal'. The hose replacement seemed to get the running but the whistle is still there. I am thinking a leak on the manifolds for the Y-Pipe connection OR does the turbo have a release valve that can make a whistle sound?
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