I have a late '99. It's been weak all summer. Took it to the dealership. They put it on the computer and said the only problem was bad injectors. Specifically #8. I replaced them all. It's still weak and now is starting to surge going down the road. I have my suspicions but I'm not a mechanic.
View 14 RepliesI have a '01 7.3 Excursion 2WD. 220,000 miles. It has a 4" exhaust, K&N filter and Edge Reprogrammer set on emission illegal. It gets the best fuel economy and moves out very well for 8000 lbs. Recently, I started to feel a surge while making light throttle acceleration. For example, round a corner at 35 and try to gently resume the 45 Speed limit. It begins to accelerate and then cuts out or surges, sometimes several times. If I lay into it, it responds fine. I have serviced the air filter, the fuel filter, use synthetic Amsoil. I did notice a slight improvement after the service. Less frequent cutting out or surging. I also was in an area where Bio diesel is readily available. I added almost a full tank of B10 Bio and it seemed to work. Changed the fuel filter just after.
It has been cold for NC. This morning it was +14 when I started the truck. It seemed to finally catch on maybe 2 cylinders with lots o' white/ blue smoke. It cleared out in a few minutes and seemed to be hitting on all 8, or at least 7. Once it warmed up, it's fine. But I had the codes p0672, p0674, p0676, p0678. My question is: Is there a common thread in the fact that it appears that I lost 4 glow plugs on the same bank?
One arm chair quarter back's response to the surging, is that the under valve cover injector wiring harness may be breaking down, especially since the truck has 220,000 and the valve covers have never been off. I have a fresh turbo with the good wheel sitting ready. I have just been too lazy to swap it out. Would a fresh set of injectors be a wise choice, when I swap over?
My truck - early 2000 CC short bed, 300K miles
Background on my problem: I had a short list of long overdue maintenance and updates to do that time and money kept me from tackling. Found a little of both so I replaced the water pump, HPOP lines, re O-ringed the HPOP/IPR, deleted the AIH, replaced all of the brake lines in the engine bay, put new fuel lines to the filter bowl. All of this took me about 2 weeks so the truck sat with the batteries out for that long.
After buttoning it all up, it fired right up, a little slower than normal but figured that was air in the fuel lines, HPOP, etc. The only issue I had was the battery light stayed on. Thinking I had an alternator issue, I checked it and it was getting about 14.25v so figured that was good. I used it regularly for about 3 weeks, the light stayed on, and noticed some surging during warm up and some low rpm hesitation.
Then it stop dead on me driving down the road. Turns out it was all my doing, I had torqued the bolts on the water pump pulley but didn't use Locktite. The bolts backed out, shredded the belt, and ended up yanking the CPS wire harness out of the sensor. So that made total sense.
Fast forward another week, got new wiring pigtail and CPS (never replaced it before now) from a couple of the good FTE vendors. I am not sure about the wiring on the pigtail, my truck has a green, blue and brown/gray wires, the wiring diagram I found online showed green, blue and gray. I wired it connecting the brown/gray where the gray line goes (center contact) and closed everything up.
Another thing to mention is that I have an Edge Juice with Attitude that has been on the truck since '06. I lost that connector in the process and they were absolutely no support in trying to get me running again. Wouldn't or couldn't tell me which wire they connect to so I used the green wire which is the CPS signal wire to the ECM. Once I am running again, going to get rid of the Edge.
So that is where I am now. No start, I've been reading some of the "what to do" posts, the most likely is that I don't see the tach bounce when trying to start. So I want to check the wiring to make sure I have good connections to the CPS.
So I don't have any diagnostic software to read codes, etc. I really need to fix this myself and only have one set of hands most of the time. Not really sure what the problem was before it stopped running and now I can't diagnose the surging and hesitating.
Ran torque for the first time on my f250, I used it for diagnostics to see if i can find out whats causing the surging. At a red light sitting idle it shows my icp at 705psi seems high to me? I'm running a dp tuner, it was set at stock for this run. It starts surging between 35-50mph and when coasting at about 60mph, surges during light throttle or maintaining throttle at low speeds. If i go about 70mph and up it runs like a champ. Ive changed the tps(entire pedal assembly), uvcg connectors, icp and pigtail. No CEL comes on, torque shows ipr is good, working on hpop pid. I just bought the truck last month and haven't been able to enjoy it much since it started doing this. ...
View 14 RepliesMy '03 7.3 is "surging" on idle. When warmed up, and idling, the RPMs will drop by 300 or 400 for a few seconds and then will correct and shoot back up. It cycles like this (every 5 seconds-ish) continually . I just put in a new IDM and checked the UVCH - is there a separate idle control mechanism that I need to have a look at? (2003, 7.3, 214K, stock).
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 f-250 with about 250k miles. Truck is completely stock. It recently has developed a problem where when I start it in the mornings it surges at idle, 200 rpm or so. Sometimes it tries to die and did once but started back up. When driving it continues to rev itself up and is jerky. It runs rough and sounds like it could be missing on a cylinder. At other times it runs fine just like normal. Yesterday morning it started with these symptoms so I put in a new ford CPS. It ran great for about 100 miles that afternoon. This morning it started back with the same symptoms. The SES light stayed on longer than normal when I started it, but it went off. I don't have a scanner.
I thought it might be water in the fuel because this started the day after I filled it from my transfer tank. But the water in fuel light has never came on. I put a new fuel filter on it but it made no difference. Have pulled filter three times looking for water but never found a drop. Also pulled several buckets from the bottom of my transfer tank but found no water there either. Where to look next?
I have a 1999 f450 7.3 diesel that surges and will stall but will start right back up again and drive. It does this over and over but all ways gets back to the shop. The engine starts good when cold so glow plugs are working correctly. What I have done:
Fuel filter change, check electric fuel pump but have not replaced it. I have replace camshaft sensor.
What I have found d by inspection:
Throttle pedal has 2 electrical connections one for the IVS and one for the TPS. I have experience on the 7.3 IDI diesels but very little on the newer injection system.
I have an early 99 F-350 with 268K miles. It is bone stock right down to the factory exhaust. A couple months ago I started have a rough idle and surging while driving problem. I never got a check engine light but I borrowed a scan tool from a friend and pulled the following codes: P1690 (wastegate solenoid), P0381 (glow plug circuit malfunction), P0269 Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance Fault, and P0284 Cylinder 8 Contribution/Balance Fault.
I did some research and everything I read said it was most likely the CPS. So I changed the CPS. The truck ran fine for for a few days but then it started acting up again occasionally. I noticed that most of the time when it acted up was at start up when the engine was cold and I also figured out that if I shut the truck off and re-started it (sometimes I had to do it 2 or 3 times) it would clear up and run normal.
A buddy of mine that has a 2000 F-250 said he had a similar problem with his truck and it ended up being the ICP sensor. We switched his ICP with mine and I changed my oil at the same time (because it was due for an oil change). My truck ran flawless for over 2-weeks (over 200 miles) so I put a new ICP in my truck. Note: my buddy did not experience any problems with his truck with my ICP in it.
I've put about 700 miles on the new IPR and the truck has started to act up again. Once again shutting the truck off & re-starting it will clear it up and still no check engine light. I took it to a local "diesel specialty shop" while it was running rough and they hooked it to their scanner and got P1280 (Inj. Control Pressure Low), P1690 (Wastegate Solenoid Fault), P0381 (Glow Plug Indicator), P0269 Cylinder 3 Contribution / Balance Fault, and P0284 Cylinder 8 Contribution / Balance Fault.
They never did anything other than hook it to a machine & check the codes but their diagnosis is my High Pressure Oil Pump is going bad and my #3 and #8 injectors are going bad. They recommended I let them replace all 8 injectors and the High Pressure Oil Pump. The problem I have is they can't give me a REASONABLE explanation as to why re-starting the truck a few times clears up the problem.
I have a 45 min drive to work every day, all highway. Lately on the way home in the afternoon I have been experiencing a surging noise that seems to just happen while I'm doing hwy speeds. It sounds to me like the fan is tuning on and off. Is that possible? It comes on for a few min. And then off again. I have new icp ipr cps. New oil and filter and fuel filter.
Also I'm still having a battery light on and off issue while I'm driving. Is possible the two issues are connected. I plane on doing extensive search for a bad wire this weekend. Batteries and alternator have checked out and are fairly new.
Recently since the weather has been cold. between 0-30 degrees or so. My 2002 7.3 with 161k on it is smoking a decent amount i think. far more than i ever remember it smoking thats for sure! anyways its a combination of blue and white smoke and it doesnt last long when the truck starts maybe 1 minute and the smoke stops.
But I also notice when i rev the truck maybe around 1200 rpms the engine shakes very bad. so i was thinking maybe a glow plug went bad making the engine seem like its missing. but even when its warm i rev it up to 1200 and i still feel the engine shake slightly. Maybe im just being picky when its warm? I need to test the glow plugs and go from there but i want opinions about that issue. the truck sits for 4 hour periods and every time i start it i have smoke. I will pay attention tomorrow morning if it smokes after being plugged in all night and post my findings.
My other issue and this typically happens when its below 20. sometimes i will go to accelerate after coming to a complete stop and the truck kinda has a very weak rev to it then just takes off like the tps took a break on me. sometimes i have had it jerk the truck when the throttle catches and other times it creeps at first then takes off like a boost of power.
lastly and this little issue happens most noticeable at 35 mph. i feel a surging im thinking this is related to the tps but i put the truck on cruise control and i still feel the surging. maybe this ties into my second issue? bad TC? ive plugged in my scanner and the only thing jumping out at me is the icp hunts about 100 psi or more at idle. i plan on doing a WOT test on the HPOP, ICP and IPR tomorrow and see if maybe this is just a weak hpop causing my issues.
Repairs i have done:
new 8th injector and all new injector seals about 25k miles ago.
new ipr
new icp
have CCV mod done and 4 inch turbo back exhaust
new map sensor
cleaned out the EBP sensor and tube but that was probably 40 or 50k ago now.
gray cps and i cant remember when i put that on.
gutted the EBPV
bellowed up pipes
no tunes the truck is factory as far as that goes.
Ok after rebuilding trans and being down a couple of weeks, I went on my 1st run since completing. Noticed when I started truck this morning it didn't turn over as fast as it was. 30 miles down the road Airbag Light comes on, and then volt meter dropped to 8 volts. Got stopped with truck still idling checked everything I had the tools to do so for. Decided to get back to my shop where I had tools, and 5 more miles and 55 mph truck just shuts off. Lost all power, truck would only click. Put my booster box on battery and gauges went back to normal but still wouldn't turn over but maybe once? Only place within a mile of my location was Walmart. Bought 2 new group 65 batteries, installed them and Shazam cranked right up no more problems. Short of the story bad batteries that checked Good with a load tester don't mean squat!
View 10 RepliesI have a 2000 Excursion with the 7.3L. We bought it in February of last year with 81,000 miles on it, and it has 111,000 miles on it now.
First problem:
It threw a code today: P0683 indicating a communication issue between the Glow Plug Control Module and PCM Communication Circuit. Other than the code, the truck isn't doing anything out of the ordinary today. Drove it about 40 miles, up to 80 MPH, problem three below did show it's head once, but other than that it ran great.
Second problem:
Ever since we've owned the vehicle it has done a strange surging/near-stalling thing (for lack of a better word) when it's started up. It only does it occasionally, and the problem seems to appear, and then go away for several weeks or months only to reappear. Here's how it goes:
- Start truck
- After starting the truck immediately begins to surge (rev?) and then nearly stall.
- It will do this over and over, about one surge/near-stall cycle per second, until I tap the accelerator, at which point it stops immediately. So far it has never stopped on it's own, but has always stopped with a tap of the accelerator.
Up until recently I chalked this up to "huh, that's weird" since the truck has otherwise run fine.
Third Problem:
Every once in a while the truck will hiccup while it's up to speed. It only seems to do it at highway speeds, typically between 55-70, and the hiccup typically only occurs once.
The first time I distinctly remember it happening was right after I had replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor (approximately 5-6 weeks ago).
While digging around online I found one other guy say his truck started doing the same thing after replacing the CMP in his F250 with the same little plastic gray one I used. So that problem might be caused by that part.
My Thoughts:
It seems like the run-away favorite for fixing problem one is to replace the GPCM. I've dug through a couple hours of forums this afternoon/evening, and it looks to me like the GPCM is the culprit the vast majority of the time when code P0683 comes up.
I'm thinking problem 2 might be an ICP issue. I can't find any previous forums anywhere that describe the exact issue I'm having - or really anything very close. Maybe it's out there, but I couldn't find it. So I'm really grasping at straws.
Problem 3 could either be related to the ICP (if problem 2 is an ICP problem) or it could be due to the new CMP I installed (the cheap gray plastic one from Autozone). It's possible the hiccup has been around longer than I think. Half the time when it happens (or does it?) I can't decide if it was a hiccup or a bump on the road I didn't see. I am sure it's happening at times, but there are other times I'm not sure if it was a hiccup or a bump I just didn't see. So I think it's possible it's been going on longer than I realize, and I noticed it that first time because I had JUST been under the hood and pretty finely attuned to how the truck was running as a result.
I'm about to hitch my 35' camper to this truck and haul it a few hours and I'm not feeling real confident right now. Problem 1 hit today, problem 2 is more prevalent than every right now, and problem 3 has been hiccupping for 5 or 6 weeks. I'd like to get at least problems 1 and 3 sorted out before hauling 8,000 lbs if possible.
Early 99 7.3 manual 6 speed. 224,000 miles. Truck starts great and runs great at idle. Starts out in gear just fine and seems to have plenty of power. It will act just like the key is turned off about a mile down the road. Will restart after extended cranking or letting it sit for 15 minutes or so. P1249, P0340, and P1280 codes pop up. Had a professional shop work on it and they changed out the CPS and IPC with factory parts. When i picked it up it had an SES light on but was running fairly well. When I looked under the hood the IPC had been cracked on the plastic part. Replaced it with another new one and it ran fine for 3 days, even pulling loaded hay trailer. Now when driving it, it cuts out for a second or two. It does that every couple miles until it stalls out completely. Restarts after 15 minutes and runs fine. Same codes are showing up.
View 3 RepliesA little about my truck. E99 F-350 crew cab long bed dually 4x4 223K miles. 4.10 gears with LS in rear.
I bought the truck June 2016. I ended up wrecking the truck on the test drive. Thought it was a 4 way stop and pulled out in front of a lady and she ran into the passenger side tire. Only damage that was on the truck was a busted tire, and the fender smashed in. Some how missed the door and the bumper.
I replaced all the front end: u-joints, ball joints, steering linkage, brakes, rotors, calipers, and all the u-joints in both of the drive shafts, also changed the fluid in both axles.
I have started to notice a slight "vibration" "shimmy" while driving down the road. Mainly while in a curve or changing lanes; applying pressure to the steering wheel one or the other. Tires have been balanced, and rotated several different times now with no luck at all.
While backing up, I can feel something "popping" "clunking" especially while turning. Like backing out of a parking space.
Insert troubleshooting:
Jack truck up and put on jack stands.
- Pull and shake all tires. --No movement
- Put in drive and watch all the rear end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Put truck in 4wd, hard to engage, watch front end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Turn tires to full lock. --Drive line starts clanking and shaking and rear tires acting funny.
- Turn tires straight. --Problem goes away.
- Put truck back in 2wd. --No problems when turning wheel lock to lock.
- Drive to empty parking lot. --Mainly feel problem while backing up, really have to feel for it. Most people call me insane.
- Lock the front axle. --No difference.
- Put in 4wd. Drive straight --No difference.
- In 4wd while turning. --Truck wants to act like it is fully locked in the rear and will bind up and slip a tire. You really have to give it some fuel to make it even try to move, and its almost like the truck wants to fold in half on itself. Cant keep the steering wheel in one spot as it keeps "jumping" on me.
- Put in 2wd. --Acts the same way until the truck fully comes out of 4wd then smooths back out to where you have to really feel for it. 4wd light stays on forever, before going off later in life.
- Put in 4low. --Gears grind and will not engage.
Would this indicate that the transfer case is messing up on me? Why would the rear axle feel like it is locked when in 4wd?
7.3 2001 model starts ok at 32-35 F. Feels a bit sluggish / slow response on the road. Reach a hill after 3-4 miles. Engine temp then beginning to go above low level mark. 100 meters up the hill, going around 30 mph there is a sudden surge in the throttle although my pedal is steady. Going back a few minutes later, on flat ground at bottom of hill and with no accelerator pressure, the engine suddenly stalls. Starts fine again after I stop. The same history actually repeated on two separate days recdently on the same hill. CPS is recently replaced. Had some jerking before that, but not the behavior explained above. Current CPS is Delphi light grey. Recent fuel filter change and oil change as well
View 14 RepliesThis is wife typing in middle of trip. Today we drove almost 300 miles down the road before it stuttered. We lost the tach but nothing else. No check engine lights. It has done it a few times since. Watching with Torque and don't see anything there. Have 100 miles to go and it's happening more frequently. Replaced CPS 4 weeks ago with a Ford grey. Running down road it's 95 day. Oil was checked to be good at 211, transmission 182, EGT 790, pulling enclosed 6x12 cargo trailer. What can I check?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 4X4 crew cab 7.3. It was running great at 244,000 miles. The only problem was the HPOP was leaking, I had done the two upper O rings several thousand miles ago. Any ways after changing the HPOP while driving down the road it would miss at times or hiccup (funny it wasn't doing this before) Also it died a couple times, once at a stop light, had to get it towed home another time in stop and go traffic, this time it started with-in 10 min after trying several times. So I decided to change the IPR, still did the same thing. So I decided to change the CMP with negative results. I checked the ICP sensor it looked good no oil leaking or no saturation. So would it be safe to say I may have gotten a bad HPOP. Remember, I had no problems until I replaced the HPOP
View 14 RepliesI have been "fighting" a front tire cupping problem on my L99 F350 Dually 2wd since I have owned it.
I got LOTS of paperwork with it, one of which was a service ticket from the dealer where it was bought new (with VERY low miles on it) saying several passing motorists had informed them that the front tires were bouncing down the road.
I have read this service complaint several times and I now feel that has something to do with it. I bought the truck with 70k on it some 8 years ago-the PO had installed EXPENSIVE Michelin XPS Rib steering tires on it and they were already destroyed by cupping.
I replaced all 4 shocks, and all 6 tires, begged the folks to FIND something wrong/loose/worn out on the front suspension/steering and they found nothing, they aligned it. THAT set of Cooper Discoverer HT tires did exactly the same thing, except I spent a lot of $$ having the tires rotated.
Now I have a set of Firestone TransForce tires on it and its been to a HD truck shop where I begged them to rip into the front end and FIND something wrong-THEY DIDN'T. THEY installed camber bolts and aligned it, yep, you guessed it STILL CUPPING!!
So, now I'm thinking is it possible that the wrong coil springs were installed at the factory causing this bouncing that the original owner reported to the dealer? I have now destroyed 2 more tires and getting tired of it.
I was driving my 2011 the other day home from work and experienced a rough idle. Normally the truck idles pretty smooth. I noticed when I was driving at highway speeds the truck seems to shake a lot. I pulled over and turned the truck off. I did a walk around and could find anything out of the ordinary. I started it back up and no more rough idle. However while i was driving at freeway speeds I could feel a momentary lack of power, then the truck would regain its speed. This would only last a sec or two.
I figured I'd give it a few days.... well now its gotten worse. Its doing the same thing but a noticeable difference in the lack of power. I still have boost pressure and the turbo seems to working fine. Im trying to figure out what it might be. I'll be taking my truck into ford again...
I've got a 2012 F250 SD and when i go over some bumps in the road or even down a gravel road, the door panel on the driver side vibrates and it's noisy. Is there any way to pull the panel and add some foam padding or something to stop this? I can see the panel vibrate or heck, maybe it the whole door.
View 10 RepliesI am still failing to appropriately diagnose the problem(s) with my '03 Ford E-350 7.3L Powerstroke. This van has only 69,000 miles on it. A week or two back (just a few days back in work time) it suddenly went from running perfectly smooth, clean and wonderful to this:
- Zero power. Putting the van in gear and flooring the engine causes lots more smoke not nearly any rev of the engine and just a crawl forward.
- Lots of smoke out the back exhaust, whitish. I cannot discern wether it smells like diesel or oil (because I'm ignorant here), but the smell is very strong.
- After warming up and idling ~ 15 min I check under the coolant cap and see no signs of bubbling or disruption (from opening the cap in the coolant tank).
- After warming up there are no warning lights visible on the dash, and I don't have a computer to read codes (if there are any to read).
- I replaced the turbo up-pipes which had a visible leak previously. This did not hurt the symptoms, though no more visual leaks under the dog house.
- I thought maybe I put gasoline instead of diesel in the truck, not so.
- To do the above test I had to use the fuel pump to get gas out the tank to test. I hijacked the fuel pump output and turned the car on a few times to get gas out to a tank. The pump seemed to work just fine.
This was all very sudden which is perplexing, and, in use, the van was previously an ambulette and in my few miles with it (maybe 200-300 only) use was extremely light for such an engine/van, just driving around doing errands. I am not sure if this is relevant (no one has suggested so, yet) but before all this happened I uninstalled the rear HVAC that came with the van when I bought it. The AC lines were sealed under the hood. The coolant line was returned at the doghouse (you can see this at the beginning of the video).
At the moment the van has no power to go anywhere. I have not yet checked the CPS or IPC sensors, and understand this might be the next route in standard troubleshooting?
2003 Ford E 350 7.3L Trouble - YouTube....