Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Low On Coolant / Oil Droplets On The Starter
Jun 9, 2016
Edit, I have also noticed I have been getting low on coolant, but without any noticeable coolant leaks. My engine oil still looks clean, where could the oil be going? How do I fix it?
2003 Excursion 153,000 miles - stock injectors, gt38r with new pedestal, Adrenaline HPOP, double transmission cooler.
I've noticed after some heavy towing with my camper (8,300 lbs), I've been getting a new oil leak showing up on my garage floor. I crawled underneath this afternoon and found three large oil droplets on the starter. See picture. What could this be dripping from?
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I had a problem with this issue a few months ago, was 45 minutes away from home, blew the fuse to the starter. Switched another one in, blew it too. Had it towed to a shop, they did some diagnostics, felt like it was a short in the starter, replaced it and all has been well (as far as that particular issue) until this morning. Got in it, turned the key it cranked for less than a second and stopped. I pull the fuse, sure enough, blown. Swap it with another, it blows.
I know I have a bare wire in the column, the OD light wire is chaffed, I fixed it before but it must be worn again because I can get it to light up depending on positioning of the shifter lever and as I recall, every time the fuse blows the steering wheel is cranked to the left.
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I just reinstalled my turbo and started the truck up to test it. After 15 seconds or so it shut down so I hopped out to take a look. I had about a gallon of oil coming down around the starter. All I did was reinstall the turbo (I had previously installed without the rear pipe hooked up). I can't see where the leak is coming from but this thing is not even remotely drive-able. My best guess is the pedestal somewhere?
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I just bought a 99 F350 to replace my 01 F250 5.4 and I'm pretty stoked. There are several problem (some i knew about, some were surprises) 1 of which is the starter. The guy I bought it off said that every 100 starts or so (more like every 4-5) the starter sounds like it free-wheels but you just wait for it to stop, turn the key again (sometimes twice) and it engages and starts (although it takes a few seconds of turning over before it fires up).
I have a buddy with the same truck and he has had to replace his starter many times and I read in an old log book from the original owner that he had replaced the starter every 25,000kms (15,000miles). I am not the kind of guy who likes to fix things to have them break again.
SO my question is, WHY do the starters on these trucks keep breaking? What is the weak link? Is it possible to re-build one with better parts at home?
Is the problem partially because my batteries are only 650CCA and 750CCA and it takes more to turn this beast over? Could it be a bendix issue?
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Four months when you tried to start the vehicle sometimes you will hear the starter. Drive in gauge but not meet the flywheel. Sometimes it would take three or four tries to turn over the engine. Yesterday went out to start the engine turn the key nothing happen no noise nothing but all the lights were working OK..
The repair shop said it was not the starter but flywheel missing teeth. But they said the main thing wrong is a need of new battery terminals. They change them in the truck started fine last night Today when my wife try to start it then come home saying thing happen nothing no sound, no nothing. Am I dealing with a bad starter solenoid perhaps or a combination of a bad flywheel??
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Any pic or wiring diagram of the starter relay that is mounted to the fender. I'm trying to start the truck finally but it's just cranking and I think I might have mixed up the wiring. Is there supposed to be a constant hot at the glow plug relay when the ignition is off?
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Upon trying to start my 2003 f250, it keeps blowing the 15A "Transmission Range Sensor then to Starter Relay Coil" fuse. Initially the truck would still start if i did not use the aftermarket Viper keyless start. however, now it doesn't start at all and keeps blowing fuses. I contacted the guy that installed the alarm thinking it might be something on his end. He walked me through reconnecting the factory starter wires which would isolate the issue if it was something on his end. it's still blowing fuses. battery terminals are good and clean.
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Batteries charged, connection & cables checked. After turning ignition switch, gauges on dash jump around & starts clicking in fuse panel. Top left relay then clicking sound from beside steering column on right side next to trailer brake box. Been having electrical issues & something draining batteries...had absolutely no cold start this winter. No decent mechanics here other than to be ripped a new one @ local dealership.
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I replaced my starter with a new one from car quest yesterday, it was starting to turn the engine over slow. I checked the batteries, they were fine, so went for a new starter. After installing, the new starter turned fast and fine, started the truck ok, but I noticed a fast clicking sound from under the dash. Ran it home and tried to start it up this morning, turns over fast, the clicking sound is still coming from under the dash, but the engine won't fire. Just turns over. When it's turning over the check engine (and all the other dash) lights flash.
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So I just bought a E99 f350 lariat. I wrecked the truck on the test drive and felt like the right this to do was to buy it. Finally have everything fixed and replaced on the truck and have run into other issues now.
While flushing the coolant system I started noticing that the starter was engaging randomly. After doing some research I found out it could be the GEM under the dash. Looked under the dash and I could here a sizzling sound and seen "smoke" /water vapor something coming off the GEM. And there is water coming through from the window/cab lights.
So. All the post I seen where from like 6 - 10 years ago. Where is the best place to buy a GEM? Will having the window replaced take care of the leaking issues on the window? What's the best after market cab lights? Cause I think they are leaking too.
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My brother has a '99.5 with about 130k on it. It's extremely slow to startup even the the starter is spinning it over pretty quickly. I pulled my Edge CTS out of my truck to get some #'s off of his. At idle mine has about 700+ ICP, his has about 480. My IPR is about 14%, his is about 10%. The only other obvious things noticeable is that his oil pressure gauge takes 3+ solid seconds before it comes up. Once it's running, it's seems normal and ICP & IPR match mine under full acceleration. The only other thing that is odd, while cranking his volts drop to mid 10's but isn't turning over slow. Where to start?
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My truck was stolen over the weekend. Fortunately, it was recovered but they broke the key lock on the steering column and I'm having a hard time getting it started. I can turn the ignition all the way to the start position with my key or a screwdriver but the starter never engages. I'm sure I'm missing something simple but I can't seem to figure it out. Looking for instructions on how to get this started again?
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Yesterday my truck began to give me some problems starting. The engine turns over just a couple of times then it sounds like the starter disengages and winds up. it took multiple attempts but it finally fired up. Does this sound like the starter or could it possibly be the starter relay?
2002 F350 CCLB Lariat 7.3
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I have a 2001 f250 ext cab long bed 4x4 that I use as a feed pickup. I have had it for about a year now. one of the issues I have noticed since I bought it is the issue I am having with the flywheel/starter. Its very random like maybe I have a missing tooth or something on my fly wheel. but every so often when I would go to crank my truck over it would just make a little whirring sound and nothing happen ( like my starter gear isn't sliding out and engaging my fly wheel.
After looking through my inspection cover I noticed I had a little wear on the sides but no teeth to my knowledge broken or stripped off. I noticed my starter had one bold loose but other two perfectly tight. It was also covered in oil and dirt from my truck sweating horse power I decided to replace my starter and have my original ford starter rebuilt. I replaced it with a NEW oreillys starter. I noticed it cranked about 5 times as fast but again every 10-15 starts I am getting the same no start. any thing I am over looking?????
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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Had coolant in oil, so pulled motor. Got used motor to replace it with, thinking about doing some work on it before reinstall.
Got bellowed up pipes, injector o-rings, front and rear main seal, and will use best parts from both motors to make one. I'll also shim injector armatures back to spec.
Should I do injector cups too? What else is recommended to do at this time? Both motors are 350k or so, I was on a budget at a moment and have to make it work with what I got.
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What is the effect will some oil contamination is the cooling system?
Does it significantly affect the cooling efficiency? I have some oil the coolant on my boat. I do not believe it is a lot maybe a few oz, but I have been chasing some unexplained overheating issues. Will adding water wetter solve oil issues (if there are any). The other option is Dawn and several cycles of flushing the system. ie until the cows come home!
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I have a 2002 excursion and every time I try to put the coolant at the min level cold, it overflows through the cap until it is about 1.5-2 inches below the min level. Then it stops. I just did the oil cooler seals last night because I had a little oil in the coolant. Same thing happened this morning - overflowed again.
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Although not certain, I *thought* I saw coolant run into the front drivers side injector hole when the injector was out and I leaned on the radiator hose. I had knowledge t pull them and changing the orings who were initially concerned then not concerned after looking closer.
Either I made a mistake in what I thought I saw on my first experience with injectors, or there really is a problem that I didn't know enough about to address at the time. So I opened this thread to get more info and stop hijacking 67speeda's thread, found here: [URL] ....
As per recommendations, I will check my coolant bottle for any fuel, oil, residue, etc. I am also going to reach out to my buddies and see if they saw a problem with coolant, too, or they realized it wasn't coolant and I didn't take note of it ...
It was a REALLY LONG day and my ability to concentrate had begun to slip quickly (health issues), so it's possible I missed something there. So IF I saw coolant going into that cylinder with the injector removed, how bad would that be? I thought it came from pretty high up and ran down where the injector sits..
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So just a couple hundred miles ago I changed the oil and oil filter in my 99 7.3 ... It wasn't till today I noticed an oil/coolant leak ... It is on the driver side of the engine by the oil cooler ... "It isn't the oil cooler leaking already checked"... It seems to be behind the water pump to the driver side of the hpop... Where the thermostat is it is like right behind that but I can't think of what it is .... Its not the oil pump leaking ... It is leaking down and being blown back across my oil pan and oil filter... That is the oil cooler it has residue but its not the problem
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I've got a late 99 7.3 truck that I just recently did a lot of work on. I installed a new turbo with bellowed up pipes and a new exhaust system and when I went to start it up it started leaking fuel in the back pretty badly. Initially I thought it was the banjo bolt or the passenger fuel line but looking at it more closely I realized that it's not coming from there. It's dripping all over the side of the starter and is collecting at the low point of the metal lines down below. I also saw small droplets coming out of the up pipe where it meets the manifold but it looked like nowhere near enough to produce the kind of leak I'm seeing, also I know fuel shouldn't be coming out of the up pipe to begin with. This is really annoying and I would like to drive my truck again.
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