Ok just needing info, am I about to have any major issues as my truck is making a loud rhythmic squeaking noise when I move at any speed that is lower then what the speedometer will register (5mph or less) should I be concerned about the noise? It only occurred when I'm at very slow parking lot speeds....
View 8 Replies2001 ford excursion 7.3l diesel.
So I tried to go to work today but the truck said no. it started out fine then out of no where it felt as if someone slammed on the back brakes engine still revved up like normal just didn't want to go. speed dropped to 20mph then i heard a clunk. after that it was fine until it hit 20 mph again. it did the same thing again.
So I got mad at it thinking the trans went out gave it the beans and it shifts into all gears but did not feel like it had power. i did pull over and check the fluid looked a little orange. when got back in the truck i did notice the od off light blinking?? drove the truck home was shifting fine but hear this awesome sounded like a hand grenade rattling around underneath. when i got home notice fluid coming from the bell housing(out of the bottom).
Ok I have had this noise going on for about 1 week before transmission went out. I just built the trans and its still there.
I had a mishap years back with front end hub bearings so I replaced with New Timken Bearings. Well that wasn't it but at least I know where I
stand with those. It starts making a noise when slowing down about 3-5 seconds before coming to a stop. I thought maybe the carrier bearing in
driveshaft?
Pinion bearing in rear diff? I need to service the parking brakes on rear so I may pull it down and go through it.
This started yesterday. A Loud grinding type noise from the top of the engine. As soon as I touch the throttle the noise goes away. I checked the pulleys and TC and everything checks out. Sounds like it's coming from the HPOP gear area like a gear train noise. Maybe the additional oil pressure has something to do with the HPOP inside getting quiet.
View 7 RepliesI think my pcm has gone bad. My wait to start light won't come on an when I turn my key on I can't hear my fuel pump cut on anymore. My vacuum pump is also making a loud noise.
View 10 RepliesThe noise is somewhere between a tin rattle and a bearing grinding heard most when braking but constant under say 10 mph. We have not been able to pinpoint where exactly it is coming from but I believe it is front drivers side.(but really could be anywhere) it is not dependent on rpm, nor gear or clutch engagement, Nor hubs engaged or disengaged.
The drives side front hub, rear hubs' bearings(races and seals) have been replaced. I have the passenger side front hub to do as well, just haven't gotten to it yet and it doesn't seem bad. we are all stumped on what it is. It seems to relate to the rotating assembly though as it seems to change with speed. it almost seems like tire rub, but there is no scaring or marks of any sort anywhere for it.
Vehicle is a e99 f250 short bed ext cab. open diff if it makes any difference. My next thought after the hub is pinion bearing? Could it be something to do with abs? say the truck is 4 wheel abs but the fronts are disconnected (trying to figure out if it is 4wabs as it appears to have connectors, but the original hubs did not have the hole for the sensors. no abs light comes on, but that could be a bad bulb too)
What we have found is hubs locked or unlocked, 4wd engaged or disengaged, and happens at right around 16 mph, braking, accelerating, clutch in or out, in gear or in neutral. All 4 corners have new bearings. We have found 2 things, 1 is the track bar bushings are shot (don't think this is the source of the noise but could be wrong and i will be replacing those..once I have money in again.. 2 the passenger side leaf spring when wacked with your hand makes a different sound than the drivers side.( could be a matter of different loads, but figured worth noting)
There are 2 noises, the first is the noise we hear, the second is one that i found when doing the noise reduction (loud meaty tires you cant hear the noise in the audio without reduction) I think that that was one of the hubs, or maybe the brakes, I am unsure, but it happens at different locations in the video.
Audio : [URL] ....
I've got a loud, intermittent, swooshing, vibrating noise from the front left wheel area at highway speeds. I put a camera down there and saw that when there was noise, the front driveshaft and front left halfshaft were spinning. When they stopped spinning on their own, the noise stopped. Hubs are Warn Premium (gold) and unlocked. Unit bearing already replaced. What could it be?
View 10 Replieswhen i accelerate or let off the peddle I hear and aloud thug or dull bang. I've checked and greased all the u joints. Disconnected the carrier bearing and separated the drive shaft and greased it up. Still get the noise I have very little play in the carrier bearing but I don't think that's the problem. It sounds to me like might be at the transmission. What do y'all think it is?
View 2 RepliesMy truck is currently stock and recently started making a knocking noise louder than it usually does. I researched and have found the injectors can make a knocking noise when not performing correctly. I took it to a local shop who hooked it up to a snap on scan tool and ran some tests. It passed the Buzz test but continually failed the contribution test on cylinder 8. I'm going to go home and remove valve cover and unclip the injector to see if the noise goes away. I'm sure hoping it does as an injector by the looks of things is definitely the cheaper option. I'm scared because if I was listening to a gas powered truck and heard the sound my trucks making I would assume it was a lower end noise. My truck only has 148,000 miles....
View 14 RepliesThats the sound coming from I think the front left area and the rate is proportional to speed. It only occurs at slow speed from about 5 to 15 mph and it seems to only occur for about 30% of each rotation. I plan to jack it up and check tire wobble or if the sound occurs during free spin. Any other things to check?
View 11 RepliesI have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
I have a 2000 Excursion diesel 7.3. I drove it for an hour yesterday and it drove great. When I arrived home I left the truck running and put it in park. Checked the mailbox and jumped back in the truck and put it in drive and it would not move. Tried FWD and reverse. Moved a little in reverse.
I turned the truck off then cranked it back up put it in drive and it drove fine..... Took it for a test drive and seems fine.
Did the same thing today. Went to drop my kids off and I put it in park and left the engine running. Put it back into drive and it would not move.
Turned the vehicle off and back on. Put it in drive and it drove off fine.
Fluid is full, red and no burnt smell. Wondering if this is converter or electrical and how long I can drive it like this.
My right front window would barely move when I was opening it. Binding real bad on the way down. So I pulled the door panel, ( a two minute affair ) lubed all the tracks with silicone grease. Now the window goes down very easily.
I had all four doors done in an hour. To remove the door panels, remove the red reflector from the door, remove the screw underneath of it. Gently pry up on the window switch bezel at the front for the front door, and the side for the rear doors if so equipped. There will be another screw underneath. Unplug the switch, remove the screw. Remove the trip piece from above the hinge area. Push up on the panel and it comes off.
I used that real thick silicone grease that you can get a plumbers supply for lubing faucet o-rings. It looks like double thick vaseline. Windows work like a dream now.
Just bought an 01 F250 7.3 but it will not move I think it has something to do with the fuses because it won't go in forward or reverse but I can't find an accurate diagram For fuse box I'm missing probably 8 fuses underneath the dash and I think one of them has to control the transmission module. What it could be if someone doesn't think the fuses...
View 9 RepliesI have a new 2012 Chevy Cruze with 10,000 miles on it. Chevy has issued service bulletins citing a problem that they can't seem to diagnose or repair (yet) and my car has the problem. They tell me their engineers are working on it. After the car is a little warm, when I apply the break there is a loud squeaking or whirring noise which pulsates at the speed of the tires (in other words, as I slow down, the intervals between each sound gets longer and longer). I suspect it is coming from the back. First they thought it was sticking calipers until they realized that I have drum brakes on the rear. It is loud enough that the only way no to hear this grating noise is to blast the radio.
View 2 RepliesFine one day, no start the next. Been skimming over the 7.3 no start thread, so w got some ammo for him to check. White smoke while cranking, rpms move while cranking. Nothing to read codes or other sensors YET. Tried the unplug ICP and it "wanted" to fire. So, I have him my spare IPR to try. I'm sure he checked the fuses but will confirm via text...
View 9 RepliesPulled out of the restaurant I ate dinner at tonight and I lost most power and there's a loud air sucking sound. I felt around all the boots and didn't feel any air, but it was really hot and couldn't feel a whole bunch. It's a 2003 7.3 with 295k. There is a little smoke/soot coming from the turbo area, any chance that's related? I'm perplexed...
View 10 RepliesI've been trying to track down a lack of power with my 7.3 for a few months now. I've had the truck for 8 years and there's just something off with it lately. When warm under a light load, such as accelerating while cruising at 40mph or going up a light hill at 30mph+, around 1100 to 1400rpm, there's just a distinct lack of power.
The engine starts lugging and the injector or valve noise increases dramatically until I push the throttle down far enough (60%+) for the transmission to downshift. Once it downshifts the engine sounds normal and takes off like it should.
At higher RPMs, it's seems to run okay, but it feels a bit down on power there. Otherwise, it starts great, idles pretty well with a slight miss, and no smoke that I've been able to see.
When it's dead cold in the morning, it seems to run better than any other time of the day.
I don't have any trouble codes other than a disconnected EPBV. One morning I did get P1670 when the engine nearly died when coming to a stop. I'm chalking that one up as a fluke due to a broken valve cover harness connector tab.
The truck has 170k miles and is mostly stock: AFE intake, 4" exhaust, and no muffler. It has an old Edge Evo programmer (yeah, yeah) that I removed a while back. I going to put it back on so I can monitor my EGTs.
The ICP, IPR%, and boost are all within spec. Buzz test sounds fine. CCT says #8 is bad with the grey CPS. Here's a datalog of a full throttle 70mph run.
[URL] ......
Recently I've decided to fix known problems:
HPOP line leak to the driver side bank
All Injector O-rings (black diesel in fuel bowl, suspicious oil consumption)
Replaced leaking intercooler couplers
EBP tube clogged, causing 0 boost sporadically, bypassed it by teeing into MAP sensor hose.
Various cam position sensors: grey (B), new dark blue (C)
Replaced leaking ICP sensor with generic sensor 6 months ago and unfortunately can't find original to test with. 2900psi without a tune seems a bit high, but reads consistently otherwise.
New fuel pump
Added service port to fuel bowl and measured 60-64psi at idle
Some things I have left to try:
Measure fuel pressure under load
Try out a parts store CPS I forgot I had.
Ziptie/secure broken valve cover harness connectors
Last year I did some major work on my 02. Painted it, new injectors, 38R, and once it was back together, the transmission went south in a month. Got a Ford reman HD4R100. Shortly after the install, when in reverse, the torque convertor would lock up when you stepped on the throttle. As soon as you let off the throttle, it would disengage. Thinking it was a tranny issue, got another one from Ford. This one has been in the truck for about 9 months. And it seemed fine until about a month ago. It started doing the torque convertor lockup thing in reverse like the last one, but not as often.
Then last weekend it did it every time I put it in reverse. Then yesterday, while pulling away from a traffic light, there was a loud bang, and lost power in the transmission. Once stopped, I found out it has manual 1st and 2nd, but nothing else. No drive, overdrive, or reverse. I personally believe something electrical led to these issues, and ultimately, the transmission failure. I know the truck is not stock, but I do not run it hard very much. When it went bang yesterday, I was not being hard on it. Where to look at what is causing this?
I drive a new to me 2005 F350, he has a 2001 F350. While we were talking he said he didn't think his pickup had the power it should have. He pulls a 5th wheel camper that weighs around 8000 pounds fully loaded. He said it takes a couple of miles to get to 55 mph, and it is hard to hold the speed. It doesn't have the power it did when he first got it last year. He was told that a diesel is slow getting started. He rode with me in mine, when I dropped it about half throttle to pass a slow car he said he could tell mine had way more power.
His check engine light is not on, it starts good both when hot and when cold. It runs smooth, no miss as far as I can tell listening to it. What are some common issues that could cause this? He did just change the oil and fuel filters, not sure about the air filter. He said the power loss came before he serviced the engine, and did not improve after the fuel filter change. Where to start? He was also told to check the filter inside of his fuel tank, so he is getting ready to drop his tank.
I have a 2003 F250 6.0l 4x4 with 230k miles. All of a sudden it seems that the fan is very very loud and there may be a very little lost of power. Also i just replaced the fan clutch not sure if that may have anything to do with it. What could it be. I need to get this fixed this week...
View 14 Replies