Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Loud Noise From Front Seats While Accelerating Or Decelerating?
Jan 22, 2017
when i accelerate or let off the peddle I hear and aloud thug or dull bang. I've checked and greased all the u joints. Disconnected the carrier bearing and separated the drive shaft and greased it up. Still get the noise I have very little play in the carrier bearing but I don't think that's the problem. It sounds to me like might be at the transmission. What do y'all think it is?
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I've got a loud, intermittent, swooshing, vibrating noise from the front left wheel area at highway speeds. I put a camera down there and saw that when there was noise, the front driveshaft and front left halfshaft were spinning. When they stopped spinning on their own, the noise stopped. Hubs are Warn Premium (gold) and unlocked. Unit bearing already replaced. What could it be?
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So my '01 E350 has been fine but tonight when I went to start it I didn't get a WTS light and the SES light was on and there was a weird number on my PHP Hydra that looked like r5 ? This happened a few times back to back so I tried starting it and it just cranked and cranked. Wtf? So I started pushing the button on the chip and all of the sudden I got the WTS light and the hydra flashed, now the chip was on tune 10 instead of 5 where it was when I parked it. I should also note that during these episodes there was a fairly loud clicking/clunking sound coming from the drivers front under the hood when I toggle the key on.. Sounds like maybe a relay? Louder than I recall ever hearing.
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This started yesterday. A Loud grinding type noise from the top of the engine. As soon as I touch the throttle the noise goes away. I checked the pulleys and TC and everything checks out. Sounds like it's coming from the HPOP gear area like a gear train noise. Maybe the additional oil pressure has something to do with the HPOP inside getting quiet.
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I think my pcm has gone bad. My wait to start light won't come on an when I turn my key on I can't hear my fuel pump cut on anymore. My vacuum pump is also making a loud noise.
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Ok just needing info, am I about to have any major issues as my truck is making a loud rhythmic squeaking noise when I move at any speed that is lower then what the speedometer will register (5mph or less) should I be concerned about the noise? It only occurred when I'm at very slow parking lot speeds....
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My truck is currently stock and recently started making a knocking noise louder than it usually does. I researched and have found the injectors can make a knocking noise when not performing correctly. I took it to a local shop who hooked it up to a snap on scan tool and ran some tests. It passed the Buzz test but continually failed the contribution test on cylinder 8. I'm going to go home and remove valve cover and unclip the injector to see if the noise goes away. I'm sure hoping it does as an injector by the looks of things is definitely the cheaper option. I'm scared because if I was listening to a gas powered truck and heard the sound my trucks making I would assume it was a lower end noise. My truck only has 148,000 miles....
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Having problem with my car (2001 Elantra GT) - over the last month or so it's been occasionally making a very loud (not but consistent) grinding noise coming from the front of the car when decelerating at low speeds. The noise sounds like gears slipping over each other but cuts in and out. It's pretty loud and not a nice noise to hear! Sometimes it makes the noise when I brake firmy but not until I reach lower speeds... mostly it's just when coming to a stop, but it did it once last week when I was pulling very slowly out of a parking spot and not even braking.
As it's become more frequent (going form maybe once a week to several times every car journey) I have started to feel something in the brake pedal also, like there's something kicking it from behind. I took it to a mechanic and had to pay a ton of money to get a broken front left ABS ring replaced (it also had the front right ring replaced in May), and within 2 minutes of driving away from the place the noise was back. Before I spend even more money that I don't have on taking it back for extra diagnosis.
I'm told that this is almost certainly the ABS system that has a fault even though the ABS light never shows except when I start the car, and I've taken the fuses out of the ABS in order to confirm that it is. I haven't heard the noise after a few days of driving with ABS unplugged so I think we can be reasonably sure here. Is there anything that I can check myself or test (I'm not very handy when it comes to cars) or can you tell from this information what it's likely to be? Other things that I've noticed with the car which may or may not be relevant are:
- the warning lights for brakes, ABS and TCS are all lit with the fuses for ABS1 and ABS2 taken out. I take it this is normal for all 3 to illuminate with the fuses out?
- since unplugging the ABS I've noticed a slight metallic squeal from the brakes as if the brakes are worn down. Didn't notice this before I unplugged ABS though it may have been there, not sure.
- sometimes when going over a speed bump or just a minor imperfection in the road I hear a clunk in the front of the car and feel something move in the underside of the car. Happens mostly at lower speeds also, but not if I go over the bump really slowly.
- in the fuse box when I took out the ABS fuses I noticed there was a bit of minor melting/brown burn marks on the top of the connections marked (iirc) ECO3 and ECO4 on the diagram (large white connectors). Is this anything to be concerned about?
- sometimes when I have air coming into the car through the air vents it will become significantly warmer for a few minutes, then slowly go back to normal. Can't think of any circumstance that links the times when this happens (eg. speed, weather etc).
- the oil pan has a leak which is on the list of things to fix when the car works properly.
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I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
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Been trying to track down a noise in the front end. Got a growl and what sounds like a big cat scratching its nails on a metal plate. The metal sound comes and goes, but the growl is always present at one level or another. It sounded like it was coming from the driver's side. I jacked the truck and checked everything on that side and it seemed tight. It was all replaced about two years ago. I then started looking around and found the sway bar links were shot along with the bushings. I then jacked up the passenger's side and checked that.
Should have done this first as it was pulling to the right and not the left. The wheel was hard to rotate and stopped rotating as soon as I stopped forcing it. It was making a growling noise, but not nearly as loud as when the truck was rolling down the road. It also had a bit of play that I tracked down to the hub assembly. The ball joints and u-joints were tight with no play at all. The dust seal that should be on the axle was gone and the hub seal looked beat. Tie rod ends all seemed good. Ordering part now. My question is there anything else I should look at?
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With the cold weather lately, I've noticed my truck has developed a new noise from the front axle. It only does it when the truck has sat for a few hours, is completely cold (below 30*), and the hubs are locked. It will only make the noise going forward. I've eliminated brakes and hub assembly as the source since the noise is only made when the hubs are locked, or when the shifter is in 4x4 with the hubs unlocked.
Its a squeak, squeak, squeak noise that seems to be with every revolution of the tire and it goes away after driving 50-100 feet. All the u-joints are tight and I can't make the noise spinning the front driveshaft by hand. The brakes have 9000 miles on them with hawk pads and powerstop cryo rotors. Neither hub assembly has play and all the ball joints are tight. I do leave the hubs locked almost year round, so there's probably a good 40k on them.
I was thinking of throwing some new u-joints on and seeing what happened, but I'm guessing the whole axle shaft has to get pulled to do the ones at the steering knuckles?
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I have this strange noise coming from the front end. It happens at the most random times. It is at the end of the video. It's kinda hard to hear over the engine noise.
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My truck has been doing great over here in Germany, and I want it to stay that way lol. I know the snow is fast approaching here and figured I should test my 4x4(I usually do monthly anyway). After switching to 4-high and making the first turn in the open parking lot, I heard a lot of popping and grinding from the front end. I straightened the wheel and out and the grinding /popping continued.
I stopped, got out of the truck to try and lock the hubs to see if that would fix the issue. turns out the passenger side hub is locked up tight. I couldnt move it by hand and wasnt about to attempt to move it with added leverage.
What this could be? maybe a collapsed vacuum hose? but then I should still be able to manually turn my I hubs I would think.
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I have seen a number of post about front end vibs associated with steering and braking. I have had a hard time finding these posts and decide to post my vib/noise accompanied when brake and steering applied.
I too have a vib/noise coming from the front at low speed braking and turning (mostly parking lots and such).
About 5-6 months ago (around 90k miles) I noticed a high squeal at high rpms. I thought it had something to do with the belt so one day while driving up the grapevine pass (I-5), under high rpm, I turned the AC on. The squeal went away, I turn the AC off the squeal came back, I was pretty sure it was the belt and hopefully not the AC compressor.
10k miles later, I finally got to changing the serp belt. After I changed the belt, I immediately heard a rough vibration noise when braking and then when PS is under strain. It seams like it comes and goes when it wanted to, but now its always under the low speed parking lot conditions. Sometimes the vibration can be felt in the floorboards.
I haven't gotten to fix'n it yet lol... as I don't know what the problem is. I'm finding it hard to believe that a serp belt could be the cause of vib/noise when braking/low speed turning. One thing for sure, the vib/noise instantly occurred when I changed the serpentine belt. What might be going on here?
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Recently I have a vibration that I can feel slightly through the steering wheel. If I'm driving down the highway doing 70mph + I have a noise coming from the front end. Also while driving let's say 40mph and below and I let off the pedal to slow down I can here a vibration in the front that kind of sounds like a small Jake break. And when going over anything bumpy I hear like a popping metal sound. This popping sound has been going on for a long time and still can't figure it out. I replaced all my shocks thinking my old set was bottoming out. Nope, still have the same problem.
I jacked up the front end yesterday and checked for movement top and bottom and side to side thinking maybe the wheel bearings or ball joints were going. Everything is solid. Spun the wheels and no noise, no grinding, nothing. I can't figure it out. I have not removed the wheels to check and see if a caliper is loose. I will be checking that next. I did notice while looking around that I can push up on my pitman arm on the steering box. It's not a huge amount of movement but I can still move it. I can also see teeth marks between the box and the arm, not sure if that is normal or not. When I do move it up and down it sounds a lot like that metal popping sound I have been hearing. So, I know this is a lot.
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Now down to the question in hand. I have a 2001 f350 4x4 with7.3 diesel...I have recently noticed a low grind like noise coming from the right front. I have troubled shot the issue and I am 100% sure it is the wheel hub assembly. Did I mention I am running 37x13.50 tires..and now it is the hubs...and they are the original hubs.. My question is every thing I look for shows ABS is on my truck... I look at the hub and don't see it.. so with the Dana 60 front does it have ABS or not? Also, should I go motorcraft, Timken or moog wheel hubs?
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Thats the sound coming from I think the front left area and the rate is proportional to speed. It only occurs at slow speed from about 5 to 15 mph and it seems to only occur for about 30% of each rotation. I plan to jack it up and check tire wobble or if the sound occurs during free spin. Any other things to check?
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Ok, so I leave the fire station this morning headed home and my steering felt weird. About 1/2 mile from home I hit a bump and my drivers side front wheel started making a screeching noise. I stopped and looked out the window and it appeared fine. I limped home and as I pull in the driveway, I lost all my steering. I look under the truck and this is what I found.
Not sure what to do. This is my daily driver and neither of my 2 mechanic friends will answer their phones.
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My issue can be while driving with cruise on, or accelerating, the truck just losses power, then recovers. At idle, the rpm can, but not always, fluctuate.
There is no "misfire" when it happens, but it just falls on its face. I have NO diagnostic tools, and my injectors are not stock, so I am unable to unplug my DP.
My thoughts are to unplug the ICP and give that a shot? Meanwhile, I will put in a order for a elm327
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I have developed a sounds that sounds like metal on metal. Not a grinding but more of a "swish swish swish" light metal rubbing when the truck has been running a mile or two. I can barely hear it over the radio but its very noticeable when the window is down. It is not affected by the pressing the brakes and it gets louder and faster in direct portion to speed. It will occasionally leave and start right back up. I touched the front rim around the hub and it was hotter than I wanted to hold onto. It didn't burn but it was hot. It was 105 degrees that day. Here is what I have done.
I replaced that front hub in 2010 and probably have 50K miles on it. I did the 3-9 test and there was no noticeable play. I spun the hub and while it seems to spin ok it does seem a little dry.... I will pull it tomorrow and see what it looks like.
I pulled the calipers off and the brakes pads are at half way and there is no burnt smell. I spun the rotor and it seemed flat and straight. I do have a small tiny lip all the way around them on both sides but I figured that's normal with 265K. I pulled the pins and they were dry but they didn't seem to be sticking. I cleaned them up with the boots and am going to replace them when I get some brake grease tomorrow. I have not looked real hard at the caliper but I plan on pressing that with a C-Clamp tomorrow to check it. Since the rotors and pads looked OK, I assumed there was not a stuck caliper although haven't ruled it out. The axle behind the hub seem to spin freely before I removed all this stuff and the hubs are not locked.
I think I covered it all .. I also thought it could be a rock or stick but nothing came out of my caliper or rotor when I took them off ..
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As I was getting ready to leave town with the tractor loaded up, I was accelerating with the turbo spooling up when I heard a bit of a pop and lost power (engine still running and all, just very low power like you get when the turbo fails). I wasn't far from the shop so I came back and started getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, it doesn't smell like diesel, probably more like oil. Definitely smoke, not coolant. I pulled it around back and shut it down to go grab AE and scan it and it shows a P0475, starting it back up has light smoke at idle and it idles fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts smoking pretty badly.
Researching it looks like the most likely cause for this is the EBPV itself but before tearing it down that far. This is the only code it's showing.
Truck has 272k on it, turbo was rebuilt a couple of years ago but we didn't do anything with the pedestal at that time. I guess in retrospect, I probably should have done the EBPV delete and the resistor fix then but I didn't think about it at the time.
On another note, my AE is not showing any of the system test for some reason, the drop down is blank. I have version 7.0.1, so it's an old version but I'm working on an old truck, so... What that might be? I've got the truck pulled into the shop now to let it cool down. I'll probably let it sit overnight and take the turbo and EBPV out tomorrow unless someone has a better suggestion...
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